substandard grease in torque sensors?

spokewrench

Active Member
Region
USA
My Aventon Abound was two months old when I began hearing a brushing sound from the bottom bracket each time the right pedal passed 5 o’clock. I figured it must have happened to others, and Support could advise me. They said they couldn’t help me if I wouldn’t send them a photograph of the noise. You can’t get blood from a turnip.

The next day, it was embarrassingly loud. The day after that, there were two brushing sounds per revolution, at 1 o’clock and 5 o’clock of the right pedal. The right bearing handles the chain load. It also handles the load from the right pedal. The brushing sound was occurring during the transition, when the combined load was going onto the bearing and when it was coming off.

Ball bearing manufacturers say that when the load is not at least 1% of the rated load, the balls may slide instead of rolling, causing rapid wear. In bicycles, a bearing isn't unloaded long enough to run dry. A film of lube would probably make sliding inaudible. If I could hear it, it might mean my bearings were sometimes running dry.

The bearing was silent for three days. When the noise returned, I realized the temperature had been above 60 for those three days, and now it was cooler. I used a hair dryer to warm the bottom bracket to 62 degrees. The noise went away.

It seemed that below 60, the lube was too stiff to keep the races and balls lubed. There had been no problem December and January, so it seemed that the lube was getting stiffer. Normally, manufacturers of sealed bearings take care to use greases that maintain their original consistency.

I bought tools to remove the right crank arm and the chainwheel. The bearing appeared to have a rubber seal partly covered by a steel shield. I bought a bottle of synthetic oil with a 19 gauge needle, used a hand drill to make a 1/16 inch hole, and injected what was probably less than a gram of oil, hoping to thin the grease enough to keep the races lubed.

For weeks it was quiet at all temperatures. It came back worse than ever, even when the bottom bracket was at 75 degrees. I pulled off the chainwheel and found that what I’d thought was a shield was a clip that could be pried out with small screwdrivers. What I’d thought was a rubber seal was a rubbery coating on a soft metal washer.

I couldn’t get the balls out, so I wiped off what grease I could as I turned the shaft. Then I packed the available space with Lucas Red ’n’ Tacky. That was several days ago, and there has been no more noise. I noticed something else. There's a 5% hill near here that I can climb without assistance on a single-speed ebike at 86 gear inches, but on my Abound, even if I shifted down to low, 37 gear inches, I’d get tired and turn on PAS. With the Red ’n’ Tacky, I don’t need PAS. Before, when I felt a headwind on my face, pedaling would get hard and I’d need PAS. Now I don’t.

The left bearing has a smaller load and smaller duty cycle than the right, but it, too, may have substandard grease. I guess the next step is to get to the controller so I can unplug the PAS wire and remove the bottom bracket to see if I can repack the left bearing. With the bottom bracket out, I may also be able to clean out the right bearing better.

If my bottom bracket torque sensor had bad grease, maybe they all do. I’ve seen three topics about 2023 Aventons where pedaling began to drag when they were a few months old. Maybe their bottom brackets need better grease. None mentioned a brushing sound. If they were riding faster or off road, maybe they wouldn’t notice, or maybe stiff grease didn’t cause the sound because they pedaled differently.
 
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Thanks. I need to put something about torque sensors and 2023s in the title so the reader will know from the outset what I'm talking about.

In a youtube video, a mechanic removed the three screws in order to unplug the wire to replace the torque sensor. My Abound has two more screws between those and the bottom bracket. I'll be screwing around in uncharted territory!
 
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I have found that chasing a creak on a bike is tricky business. It seems like it's coming from here, but it's actually coming from there, sometimes a good ways away. You'll find it eventually.
 
I have found that chasing a creak on a bike is tricky business. It seems like it's coming from here, but it's actually coming from there, sometimes a good ways away. You'll find it eventually.
But I did find it. It was a brushing noise, not a creak. It got so bad I sounded like a steam locomotive. Pedestrians would turn and stare. A gram of oil in the bearing stopped the noise for weeks. It returned worse than ever. It hasn't recurred since I removed some OE grease and packed it with good bearing grease, and now I can pedal up long hills and into headwinds without PAS.
 
But I did find it. It was a brushing noise, not a creak. It got so bad I sounded like a steam locomotive. Pedestrians would turn and stare. A gram of oil in the bearing stopped the noise for weeks. It returned worse than ever. It hasn't recurred since I removed some OE grease and packed it with good bearing grease, and now I can pedal up long hills and into headwinds without PAS.
Interesting that bottom bracket grease made such a huge difference in your total resistance.
 
Coo Space is now making Autonomous Decentralised Bearings. They don't need lube because they keep the balls apart without cages, and that cuts friction by 90%.

A cage skids balls slightly to keep them spaced so that they don't spin against each other. Loading the chain wheel bearing by pedaling would be like squeezing the lever on a disk brake. The balls on the loaded side would be squeezed between the races so that the cage would have to push to keep them evenly spaced. The balls would see friction against the races and against the cage. If the surfaces lack a lube film, friction could be significant, and pedaling harder would be like squeezing a brake lever harder.

That explains why I wasn't aware of the problem. Most of the time, the drag was pretty light, but I would quickly tire on a hill or in a headwind in spite of the gearshift. It didn't make sense to me.

There's a 2-mile circuit where for my first hundred days on the Abound I'd need PAS in 5 places. Since I packed in some better grease, I can do it all without PAS, including a 16% grade.

I may be able to get into the left bearing without removing the bottom bracket. I'll put in better grease. If I find a way to remove more of the old grease than I did on the right, I'll redo the right.
 
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,.. I pulled off the chainwheel and found that what I’d thought was a shield was a clip that could be pried out with small screwdrivers. What I’d thought was a rubber seal was a rubbery coating on a soft metal washer.

The same thing happened with my car.
I cheaped out and bought a $30 bearing off ebay to save about $20 on a quality bearing.

Screenshot_20240313-141807_DuckDuckGo.jpg


That bearing only lasted a couple years before it rusted out, so I replaced it with a properly sealed SKF bearing.

20190723-152537.jpg



This is the original OEM bearing seal.
It lasted over 12 years.
It's got a stainless steel "rubber band" coil spring to maintain seal contact with the inner bearing race.

003_zps715e0c52.jpg
 
This video shows what I saw.
The right bearing appears at 3:31. It looked to me like a rubber seal partly covered by a metal shield. When I opened it up to check again, I discovered that the "shield" is a kind of clip I hadn't seen before, and the seal is a metal washer that looks like rubber.

If I'd watched more closely, I would have seen that the left bearing can be accessed without removing the bottom bracket. It's at 1:12.
 
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