48v Pansonic GA 17.5ah Black Killer Whale Ebike Pack from Luna Cycles

Radrover with some accessories and Luna 52V 17.5 AH battery pack. Stock dolphin pack fits in the battery bag as well. A little bit more power and a lot more range. Also installed shimano 42T chainring and crank arms. running 2.5" Hookworms and a side mirror.

Would you be willing to point me towards which battery you purchased?

Did you have to do any remounting or was it plug and play?

I am considering purchasing a RadRover after a disappointing theft of my Juiced Crosscurrent, but I want to make sure that I can install a higher voltage, extended range battery prior to making the purchase.

I appreciate your help.
 
Those batteries use available cases. Nothing propriety. You just have to match connectors. Nothing difficult there either.
 
A 48V battery has 13 batteries in series, a 52V has 14. So add 4-5 18650 cells to a 52V pack over a 48V pack. 6-8oz heavier.
You can come pretty close to the weight using the total battery weight. A cell weighs 45gr. A typical 48V pack is 13s4p. 13 in series, 4 in parallel. That's 13x4x45. 2340 grams. I use online calculator by searching google for grams to oz and get a calculator. http://www.rapidtables.com/convert/weight/gram-to-ounce.htm
5lbs 3oz
14s4p=2350gr or 5lb 9oz

A typical case like a Dolphin with BMS weighs about 1lb 8oz.

I hope that helps. Bottom line 52v is about 6oz's heavier. just over 7lbs.

I hope that helps!
 
Can someone tell me the difference between those chargers and also what those other options are? Like the multimeter and charger safe. What are they? Thanks!
 

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Can someone tell me the difference between those chargers and also what those other options are? Like the multimeter and charger safe. What are they? Thanks!
The basic information you should be able to get from their support. The three position charger, if you read the description, allows charging at several levels. This can extend battery life. However I'm not impressed with these Kingpan chargers. They've been custom made and had a high rate of return at one point. If you're going to be into ebike better to buy a charger that can be used on other voltages and actually has a full and longer warranty. I'd buy the inexpensive version for now and use a multimeter to manage charge levels. It takes a bit of research on your part to learn.
 
The basic information you should be able to get from their support. The three position charger, if you read the description, allows charging at several levels. This can extend battery life. However I'm not impressed with these Kingpan chargers. They've been custom made and had a high rate of return at one point. If you're going to be into ebike better to buy a charger that can be used on other voltages and actually has a full and longer warranty. I'd buy the inexpensive version for now and use a multimeter to manage charge levels. It takes a bit of research on your part to learn.
What quality charger would you recommend for the 52v?
 
I have to apologize. I use and have sold other chargers. I use only Satiators from ebikes.ca Sadly they are expensive and are put down by the vendor you are considering. They are able to do a range of batteries. I have 36V, 48V, and 52V batteries making the $300 price tag less painful. But when you consider a $300 investment in a charger will double the life of a $500 battery, you're still ahead. I bought mine when I only had 36V batteries. Those batteries are still performing as new in their 4th season. Another feature is the ability to do a 50% charge for storage. It also TRACKS the battery charge cycles and battery usage. It's more than a charger it's a tool. It's easy to program and can be programmed with Windoze or OS X. I do keep a super cheap fanless charger from Aliexpress for travel or charges where I don't want to grab the Satiator and don't mind a 100% charge. BUT the Satiator can also be mounted on a bike and it fully waterproof. I just had to ditch the bill from the Mrs.
 
I do not sell them to electric bike review readers. Best to order direct!


http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/cycle-satiator.html#design-features


Benefits of Partial Charge

One of the key benefits of the Cycle Satiator is its ability to let you easily control the charge level of your battery. It is now well known that most lithium chemistries (with the exception of LiFePO4) can see drastic improvements in calendar and cycle life when they are not held at the nominal full charge voltage of 4.2 V/cell but are charged to a lower voltage instead. That’s how electric car manufacturers are able to 5-8 year battery warranties on cells that usually only test to ~500 cycles.

With most ebike chargers, you have no ability to set the full charge voltage and have to accept topping it up to 4.2 V/cell. This gives the most range on a charge, but if you don’t require the full capacity of your battery on most of your trips then you are unnecessarily reducing the battery life every time you charge it. In many cases that means replacing your ~$1000 lithium battery pack every 1-2 years, when with proper management it could be lasting more like 4-5 years. In fact the further from full charge you go, the more pronounced the life cycle improvements.

With the Charge Simulator we’ve made it really easy to produce profiles that will charge a battery to a given percentage of its full capacity, so you can easily create say 70%, 80%, 90%, and 100% charge curves for your pack, and the Charge Simulator will figure out the required full charge voltage for each. If you have a 20Ah battery, and typical trips only require 12Ah or less, then the 70% charge (to 14Ah) would be fitting most of the time. If you knew you needed just over 16Ah for a longer journey, then you would choose the 90% profile instead, and when you want to get full range from the battery or let the BMS balance the cells, then that is your only occasion to use the 100% profile.

Used in this manner, the Cycle Satiator will pay for itself many times over just by extending the useful life or your expensive lithium battery packs. Nevermind all the other benefits of having a compact, programmable, sealed, high power battery charger with a graphical display screen.

Partial Charge and Cell Balancing
One of the only downsides to partial charging is that many inexpensive battery management system (BMS) circuits will only do active bleed balancing of the cells when they are at or near the full charge voltage of 4.2 V/cell. This means that with partial charge profiles that don’t reach that voltage, the BMS circuit will never be able to rebalance cells if they are drifting apart. Over time you may have less available capacity from the pack as certain cells will hit the low voltage cutoff on discharge well before others.

If this is an issue it can be easily remedied by occasionally (like once every month or two) leaving the pack connected to a 100% charge cycle overnight.

Good quality programmable BMS circuits will usually attempt to balance the cells whenever they see more than a certain voltage spread between the highest and lowest cell in the group, and in that case there is no problem with partial charges. Similarly, good quality cells rarely drift out of balance in a series string, and can easily handle 100 or more cycles and maintain a perfect voltage matching even if the BMS circuit doesn’t do any active balancing. But if you aren’t sure of the makeup of your battery pack, then the protocol of occasionally giving a 100% top-up is a good bet to ensure both a long cycle life and evenly matched cell voltages.
 
The three batteries I have going are a 48v 11Ah Dolphin from EM3ev that is in to its 100th charge cycle here shortly. No degradation to date although fully charged and depleted most of the time. Initial cost $450. Used with my V.1 a 1000w/25amp DD hub motor drop bar bike. Quite frankly if it failed tomorrow I wouldn't complain as it has helped me get to so many places in the past year but
it will last another few years at this rate I am thinking.

A 52v 11 HL Shark is under going its 75th charge cycle. Like the former charged fully each time and more often than not depleted fully each use. 1000w/25amp DD hub motor drop bar bike V.2. This battery seems to be getting better with age actually. I am getting 40mile rides averaging 18mph or so over very varied terrain. Purchased from Grin last fall for $500.

Just today I purchased a 52v 17.5Ah HL Panasonic GA Shark battery that will see duty for longer rides I have my eye on with big elevation gains. It will more than likely get treated like the others. Cost $670 @ the local e bike store. It can power either bike with a cradle swap of 2 bolts and 2 Anderson connectors. My CA3's are both programmed with it as the second battery.

For $1620 I have almost 40Ah of batteries that based on my experience so far I feel will last me just charging fully at a 2/3 amp rate for at least a few years or more taking me many miles and places. I think new tech is right over the horizon and these should last me til it arrives.

So in conclusion although I see the practicality of not fully charging or depleting batteries and a product like the Satiator it is not what works best for my program and I am willing to pay the price for the performance gains.
 
Well like you I have several EM3ev batteries. But I have 7 others and they are mixed. But I bought the satiator when I had just the EM3ev batteries. Not to be argumentative but some of us, certainly me would be disappointed to give up at 100 or even 200 cycles. To have a device that without question can do the best possible job of maintaining a healthy pack fits in any program from my view, but hey, obviously your mileage varies, you have a Laissez-faire attitude regarding battery management and I respect your opinion. Although wouldn't be as confident about the "another few years" with full discharges.


But for a daily user who commutes and spends on their packs and needs to watch a budget the advanced charger fills many needs. You're are willing as you say to pay the price. I'd point out I have no performance losses with a 90% charge and certainly some gains in $$'s in my pocket. But I also have storage issues and the 50% charge insures I have healthy batteries each spring after some packs have their winters nap. A couple run all winter since I saddle up on studded snow tires...

All the best!

Tom
 
Guess that puts me in the Micah school of battery management. 400 cycles as per the manufacturers specs will be fine . That should take me awhile considering I have around a thousand possible charge cycles to go.

Not storing batteries at full charge is definitely part of the program.

I think that how you ride your bike has everything to do with this. If you ride targeting speed, elevation gain and distance full charge is best. If you only go so far so fast and can do several rides on a charge you will get more battery life, as long as you follow the storage regiment.
 
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