48t 104bcd chainring for Vado

Avg_Joe

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
RDU, NC
Any replacement 48t 104bcd chainring for the Vado you all recommend (or recommend staying away from)? My OEM Praxis ring has some substantial wear, stock in the US is nearly non-existent, so just wondering what others have used? I do not wish to change the gear ratios, the 48t works for me/my riding. TIA.
 
Joe, you could try looking up such a chainring from Garbaruk:
Garbaruk is a world famous manufacturer of top-end drivetrain components (I use a 42T Garbaruk chainring on my Vado, and can highly recommend the brand).

If you are looking for a cheaper alternative, Deckas is another relevant brand.

In any case, you will not be able to reuse your chainguard. Also, the Praxis ring is conveniently mounted with the bolts screwed from the outside (no nut) as the Praxis ring comes with threaded bolt sockets. Any other chainring requires using "1x MTB chainring bolts, 8x8 mm". These come from Woolftooth, Truvativ, Rocride, Origin8... These bolts are sold in packs of five (I think one of them is a spare). The bolts are equipped with a nut.

Now, installing the chainring with the bolt & nut is a little bit tricky on a Vado as there is a very tight clearance between the chainring and the frame/motor cover. I was replacing the Vado chainring twice (to 38T and then to 42T) and the thing is doable. Even if a dedicated wrench is required to keep the nut stationary, it has turned out it is enough to hold the nut with a finger for the initial phase of tightening, and the nut wrench was not necessary. Especially, as the tightening torque is just 5 Nm! (I recommend using a threadlocker such as Loctite Blue to make the bolt & nut vibration resistant!)
 
Joe, you could try looking up such a chainring from Garbaruk:
Garbaruk is a world famous manufacturer of top-end drivetrain components (I use a 42T Garbaruk chainring on my Vado, and can highly recommend the brand).

If you are looking for a cheaper alternative, Deckas is another relevant brand.

In any case, you will not be able to reuse your chainguard. Also, the Praxis ring is conveniently mounted with the bolts screwed from the outside (no nut) as the Praxis ring comes with threaded bolt sockets. Any other chainring requires using "1x MTB chainring bolts, 8x8 mm". These come from Woolftooth, Truvativ, Rocride, Origin8... These bolts are sold in packs of five (I think one of them is a spare). The bolts are equipped with a nut.

Now, installing the chainring with the bolt & nut is a little bit tricky on a Vado as there is a very tight clearance between the chainring and the frame/motor cover. I was replacing the Vado chainring twice (to 38T and then to 42T) and the thing is doable. Even if a dedicated wrench is required to keep the nut stationary, it has turned out it is enough to hold the nut with a finger for the initial phase of tightening, and the nut wrench was not necessary. Especially, as the tightening torque is just 5 Nm! (I recommend using a threadlocker such as Loctite Blue to make the bolt & nut vibration resistant!)
Awesome stuff, @Stefan Mikes - thank you very much for the details! I ran across the Deckas in my cursory search, wasn't aware of Garbaruk. And I wouldn't have ordered the nuts/bolts to hold them, so I appreciate this very much. (And I always use Blue Loctite after removing & cleaning my existing chainring, so all good there)
 
Joe, you could try looking up such a chainring from Garbaruk:
Garbaruk is a world famous manufacturer of top-end drivetrain components (I use a 42T Garbaruk chainring on my Vado, and can highly recommend the brand).

If you are looking for a cheaper alternative, Deckas is another relevant brand.

In any case, you will not be able to reuse your chainguard. Also, the Praxis ring is conveniently mounted with the bolts screwed from the outside (no nut) as the Praxis ring comes with threaded bolt sockets. Any other chainring requires using "1x MTB chainring bolts, 8x8 mm". These come from Woolftooth, Truvativ, Rocride, Origin8... These bolts are sold in packs of five (I think one of them is a spare). The bolts are equipped with a nut.

Now, installing the chainring with the bolt & nut is a little bit tricky on a Vado as there is a very tight clearance between the chainring and the frame/motor cover. I was replacing the Vado chainring twice (to 38T and then to 42T) and the thing is doable. Even if a dedicated wrench is required to keep the nut stationary, it has turned out it is enough to hold the nut with a finger for the initial phase of tightening, and the nut wrench was not necessary. Especially, as the tightening torque is just 5 Nm! (I recommend using a threadlocker such as Loctite Blue to make the bolt & nut vibration resistant!)
Stefan,

So if 48T is OEM, and you used 38T and 42T, can you summarize the benefits or detriments to each choice vs OEM 48T? Thanks.
 
Stefan,

So if 48T is OEM, and you used 38T and 42T, can you summarize the benefits or detriments to each choice vs OEM 48T? Thanks.
Guru (can I address you by your first name?),
Thank you for the question!

The 48T chainring is the proper choice for riding fast on the flat or downhill at pretty high assistance. It also encourages the rider to use middle gears, and the cassette cogs last longer that way. The Praxis ring is easy to install and it allows the use of the chainguard.

The choice of the 38T steel chainring is the choice for riding the Vado in true mountains (with many steep hills). In case you can have an 11-46T cassette combined with the long cage derailleur, you are getting close to the MTB gearing of 20 gear-inches. Combined with the TURBO mode, it allows easy climbing of 19% grade inclines (I haven't tried even more steep climbs). It is even possible to get the 11-51T cassette for the 11-speed drivetrain (it requires a dedicated derailleur), and that puts the Vado in the MTB league (I did not need to do that!) When you are riding in the mountains, it is either a climb or a descent. You simply do not pedal your e-bike downhill, as getting at speed of, say, 40+ mph is dangerously easy there without any pedalling!

The 42T chainring feels the sweet point for me. It gives me a good climbing capability in the area I live, and I can also ride easier in the rough terrain such as the forests we have here. The top speed is somewhat limited (the cadence limits you at some 25 mph) but I could ride at 29.2 mph by mad spinning the cranks just yesterday. The drawback is the 4 smallest cogs are the ones mostly used, which leads to their premature wear. Fortunately, these cogs can be bought and replaced by a mechanic, making it possible to make an inexpensive repair instead of replacing the entire cassette. Note: I feel a 44T chainring could be even better for me here!

The Garbaruk company is a fascinating phenomenon. Mr. Garbaruk, a Ukrainian, has got an extremely good know-how in metallurgy. He has also understood the drivetrain mechanics to the expert level. He set up his factory in Nowa Huta, Poland (a steelworks city) to benefit of manufacturing inside the European Union country. Garbaruk drivetrain components are of top quality, are lightweight, and expensive :) I had a look at how Garbaruk designed his chainring: it has exceptionally long teeth, preventing the chain drop. I'm a fan of Garbaruk products now!

1685325122521.png

A display of Garbaruk cassettes at the biggest bike store in Poland. Very expensive products! The prices start from US$240 there.
 
Last edited:
Guru (can I address you by your first name?),
Thank you for the question!

The 48T chainring is the proper choice for riding fast on the flat or downhill at pretty high assistance. It also encourages the rider to use middle gears, and the cassette cogs last longer that way. The Praxis ring is easy to install and it allows the use of the chainguard.

The choice of the 38T steel chainring is the choice for riding the Vado in true mountains (with many steep hills). In case you can have a 11-46T cassette combined with the long cage derailleur, you are getting close to the MTB gearing of 20 gear-inches. Combined with the TURBO mode, it allows easy climbing of 19% grade inclines (I haven't tried even more steep climbs). It is even possible to get the 11-51T cassette for the 11-speed drivetrain (it requires a dedicated derailleur), and that puts the Vado in the MTB league (I did not need to do that!) When you are riding in the mountains, it is either a climb or a descent. You simply do not pedal your e-bike downhill, as getting at speed of, say, 40+ mph is dangerously easy there without any pedalling!

The 42T chainring feels the sweet point for me. It gives me a good climbing capability in the area I live, and I can also ride easier in the rough terrain such as the forests we have here. The top speed is somewhat limited (the cadence limits you at some 25 mph) but I could ride at 29.2 mph by mad spinning the cranks just yesterday. The drawback is the 4 smallest cogs are the ones mostly used, which leads to their premature wear. Fortunately, these cogs can be bought and replaced by a mechanic, making it possible to make an inexpensive repair instead of replacing the entire cassette. Note: I feel a 44T chainring could be even better for me here!

The Garbaruk company is a fascinating phenomenon. Mr. Garbaruk, a Ukrainian, has got an extremely good know-how in metallurgy. He has also understood the drivetrain mechanics to the expert level. He set up his factory in Nowa Huta, Poland (a steelworks city) to benefit of manufacturing inside the European Union country. Garbaruk drivetrain components are of top quality, are lightweight, and expensive :) I had a look at how Garbaruk designed his chainring: it has exceptionally long teeth, preventing the chain drop. I'm a fan of Garbaruk products now!

View attachment 154666
A display of Garbaruk cassettes at the biggest bike store in Poland. Very expensive products! The prices start from US$240 there.
Sure, you may.

Thanks for the broader understanding of the differences. So, I'd most likely stay with the 48T. Does the Garbaruk have a similar "Wave" technology for the in/out of the chain? And, did you ever use the Wolf Tooth?
 
Does the Garbaruk have a similar "Wave" technology for the in/out of the chain?
I didn't look at it in greater detail, Bob. Certainly, the chainring is at least Narrow-Wide. As the Garbaruk chainring handles fantastically for me, I have just put my trust it is the perfect chainring.

And, did you ever use the Wolf Tooth?
Not. I chose the 38T steel Shimano ring as it was simply easy to buy.
 
Now, installing the chainring with the bolt & nut is a little bit tricky on a Vado as there is a very tight clearance between the chainring and the frame/motor cover. I was replacing the Vado chainring twice (to 38T and then to 42T) and the thing is doable. Even if a dedicated wrench is required to keep the nut stationary, it has turned out it is enough to hold the nut with a finger for the initial phase of tightening, and the nut wrench was not necessary. Especially, as the tightening torque is just 5 Nm! (I recommend using a threadlocker such as Loctite Blue to make the bolt & nut vibration resistant!)

This is the tool I use to hold the nut....works great!
Park Tool CNW-2, about $8 US.

1685331450878.jpeg
 
This is the tool I use to hold the nut....works great!
Park Tool CNW-2, about $8 US.

View attachment 154672
Exactly the thing, @Rider777! However, it is not as easy as it sounds.

The clearance between the chainring and the frame/motor is as tight (at least on my Vado) as I found it impossible to insert the tool end into the gap! With bigger a chainring, it is just a single bolt of four that is not totally obscured by the motor cover (you need to rotate the ring to be able to work on the next bolt in sequence). With a small chainring, I actually had to remove the motor cover to get some access to the nut! Fortunately, the steel RocRide bolts I could buy at that time (in a bigger quantity) were almost self-tightening. That is, I pushed the nut into the hole from the rear, and was just holding it with my fingertip while tightening the bolt from the front of the chainring. Then the nut (like) grabbed onto the ring and I could eventually tighten each of the bolts to 5 Nm (the cross-wise way).

Way later, the Specialized shop had to re-assemble my Vado using a new bare frame to satisfy the lifetime warranty claim on a cracked frame. To keep it simple: they returned the newly rebuilt Vado with all original components that could be re-used. That included my ring and the bolts!
 
Any replacement 48t 104bcd chainring for the Vado you all recommend (or recommend staying away from)? My OEM Praxis ring has some substantial wear, stock in the US is nearly non-existent, so just wondering what others have used? I do not wish to change the gear ratios, the 48t works for me/my riding. TIA.
This is a bit frustrating. It seems the stock Praxis ring is a proprietary part made for Specialized as it does not appear on the Praxis website. As others have noted, compatible aluminum rings are available, but who really wants a ring that will probably last only a fraction as long as the stock one?

I've not yet found a compatible steel replacement, but 5Dev makes a titanium ring for $150 USD. You know, for the weight savings😝
 
but who really wants a ring that will probably last only a fraction as long as the stock one?
How have you come to that conclusion? There is nothing special about the Praxis ring. It is made of alloy like the most other. (I would say Garbaruk is using premium alloys for his rings). The teeth pattern is Wave but hey, there is nothing wrong with the Narrow-Wide pattern used on optional chainrings. The only difference with the Praxis chainring is the easy way of installing the part on your e-bike, and the possibility to re-use the chainguard.

It seems the stock Praxis ring is a proprietary part made for Specialized as it does not appear on the Praxis website.
It is because you are looking for it in the wrong website. It is the Specialized, not the Praxis spare part. Can be found in online bike stores.

1 x CHR PRAXIS MY17 VADO 48T, CHAINRING,104,WAVE
Part name: S171400002

1685559982815.png

So, what's wrong about the Garbaruk chainring?
 
How have you come to that conclusion? There is nothing special about the Praxis ring. It is made of alloy like the most other. (I would say Garbaruk is using premium alloys for his rings). The teeth pattern is Wave but hey, there is nothing wrong with the Narrow-Wide pattern used on optional chainrings. The only difference with the Praxis chainring is the easy way of installing the part on your e-bike, and the possibility to re-use the chainguard.
I stand corrected. The stock Praxis ring is indeed aluminum.

Carry on.
 
I ended up getting an ebay special chainring, Snail 104BCD 48T narrow/wide, with the nuts to install. It claims to be 7075-T6 aluminum alloy. Took just a few minutes to swap over (keeping my worn Praxis just in case), and fit is perfect. Haven't ridden it more than a few hundred feet due to the incessant rain, but it felt fine. I'll follow up once I have the chance to put the miles on.
 
So after putting some miles on my eBay Snail chainring, I would like to report:
  • It is round.
  • It is narrow-wide.
  • It is quiet.
  • It works fine.
No noise, no issues, just a chainring. About 100mi in, it shows no wear so far. $20 and I am happy.
 
So after putting some miles on my eBay Snail chainring, I would like to report:
  • It is round.
  • It is narrow-wide.
  • It is quiet.
  • It works fine.
No noise, no issues, just a chainring. About 100mi in, it shows no wear so far. $20 and I am happy.
link?
 
I've used many premium company 1x chainrings, both round and ovalized. I think I paid $95 for the oval ring currently on my Salsa Cutthroat. The Chinese knockoff 1x chainrings on Amazon used to be terrible, drop chains, skip, stick, etc.

But in the past 6 months I have purchased and used three Chinese knockoff 1x chainrings from Amazon, all under $15. They have performed indistinguishably from expensive and/or boutique brand chainrings. The latest ovalized ring that I bought, I laid over a Garbaruk (whose ovalization I like the best). Nearly identical amount of ovalization and clocking.

I've been happy with these:

JGbike Elite Round Oval Chainring 104mm BCD


Hard for me to spend up to ten times as much when these are indistinguishable riding the bike.

The included bolts won't work by the way, too long for the Praxis crank.
 
Regarding teeth, 48-11 is a huge gear for me!

I don't really like to go fast anymore. Have crashed bikes too many times to count (MTB'ING is for the young and flexible ;)) the possibility of crashing always hangs out, it's bikes and if you ride them enough you are unfortunately going to eat it at some point. 20mph sucks, but 30mph is fairly likely trip to the hospital. I'm not sure about the physics of it but from experience it seems to me that once you get to 30 mph crashes are geometrically more violent. Like a 30 mph crash seems more than twice as bad than 20.

But anyway I'm not sure, just how it feels. I do know that I'm perfectly okay with a 36-11 high gear. Both my wife and I have "natural" cadence at 90-95 rpm - this cadence feels like home and is where tend to end up naturally if not trying to do otherwise. Maybe high 80s for more cruising. If I want to go harder, I can spin 100-105 for three minutes or so without feeling much distress.

So for me a 36-11 gear spins out at just a bit under 30 mph, and I don't want to go faster than anyway. Living in a hilly area, I''d rather have the much lower gears with a smaller chainring.

I suppose the cost of this is more time spent on smaller cogs, but I have a lot of small cogs lying around so if they wear out replacing isn't too tough. Chainline isn't perfectly ideal either, but the way chainline works you are are significantly less "crossed up" on the smallest cog than on the largest cog (because if the chainring is not slightly favoring the outboard smaller cogs, the chain will rub on the next biggest cog when it's in a small cog.)

Plus it seems to me that low power e-bikes love a high pedal cadence. It seems like theypwraon operate most efficiently at a minimum 80-85 rpm cadence. I don't feel like I burn through the battery as fast even though I'm inputting the same amount of energy as pushing the pedals harder and turning them more slowly.

That also might be wrong, purely anecdotal from non-scientific personal experience. So grain of salt for sure 🙂
 
@hankj:
I like the views you presented in your two posts. I also think the 48T chainring is too big. It is a rare situation (for me) to out-spin a 42T chainring, and getting over 25 mph on the flat is hard because of the air drag. I do not like to be riding too fast, and I prefer higher cadence. The climbing capability is important for me too (it is a 38T chainring for real mountains on my 11-46T cassette). Replacing the smallest cogs is cheaper than replacing the entire cassette with worn middle cogs and so on and so on. I also think Garbaruk makes excellent chainrings and other drivetrain components.

The only thing I cannot understand is the oval chainring on a mid-drive e-bike. The whole virtue of the oval ring on a traditional bike is the crank remains in a fixed position related to the chainring. On the mid-drive, the crank is not connected to the chainring at all, so where's the gain?
 
11-46 is a nice cassette! Good wide range of gears there!

I think I understand you on the oval ring not being right for an e-bike. I've never used one on an e-bike, and I've never felt compelled. But maybe the oval ring works in relationship too. The position of the crank arms, whether or not they free wheel.

But either way, an oval ring helps you have less resistance in the parts of the pedal rotation where it is harder to turn the pedals. Having a motor basically takes care of this for you. So yeah, oval and e-bike doesn't seem like any benefit.
 
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