250-300Nm of torque?

Putting this motor in the Moto is serious overkill, but then-again, putting a Mustang V8 engine in my 1990 Miata was overkill too, but boy was it fun to drive. 😁
 
I've heard of people complaining about RadWagon too, how it's barely moving after putting kids in the back, groceries, and on very steep hill.
I imagine other cargo bikes have similar problem.
Definitely, and even just us big guys on regular bikes. My Ultra is 'generous' for most of my riding, but I would seldom say overpowered when graded overall. I may be able to do >45kph easily on level ground, but I slow to 20-25 on moderate hills, and steep hills will still get me down to maybe 15kph in 2nd or 3rd gear. Not exactly slow, but in an ideal world - just like my car or my motorcycle - I would prefer to have the power to completely overcome any hill I might encounter and maintain at least 30-35kph for my loaded commute. Then my e-bike can truly become a primary mode of transportation.

You can always de-tune the output for flat cruising with software and sensors, but the peak output in adverse conditions will be the true measure of a bike's capability to many riders and commuters. Especially the heavy cargo/commuter, or hill-climbing MTB crowd.
 
It will be great for Biktrix Skycap.

I've heard of people complaining about RadWagon too, how it's barely moving after putting kids in the back, groceries, and on very steep hill.
I imagine other cargo bikes have similar problem.
Not if they have a mid drive.

My midtail is the one I use in steep hills in the Monterey Bay area, and I blow past Rad Wagon riders on the uphill (there are rentals here as well as local riders), who I can see are not doing so good pedaling uphill. I recently upgraded to a Microshift Advent 11-46T rear drivetrain so I could get better chain alignment on a bigger cluster. Formerly had a Shimano HG-400 that maxed out at 32T. I can almost pedal without effort if I want to hammer it and peak at around 12-15 mph up steep hills, loaded.

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I fixed my broken spoke and was able to put the wheels with the big tires back on last weekend.

In a world like this 300Nm and a secondary beefed-up drivetrain is the perfect idea for riders replacing an auto.
 
Just curious..

Would it be better if it had IGH and eliminate bicycle chain, cassette, derailleur, etc?

Does the motor have internal gear? or is it a single gear only?

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Absolutely it would :)
A Kindernay VII would be perfect for it, I know, I just did a custom install on a bike with a similar drive train :)
 
I have a bike with a Cyc X1 that puts out 180 Nm, peaks at 4kw and uses a 219 chain. It also is a hi rpm motor peaking at around 10,000 rpm (the new ones have all higher specs than this, including a 12k rpm limit). Hearing that little motor scream as it spins up to hi rpms makes me fear for my ankles, but that little 219 chain continues to handle things with aplomb. Just as important, the chainrings don't seem to be wearing down. You'd think they'd leave a breadcrumb trail of metal shavings but so far so good (my motor is an older gen1 with a custom controller).

So I'm completely on board with the kart chain. I have to wonder about the Kindernay since the torque levels we are talking about are well past what its rated for. Uncharted territory.
 
I have to wonder about the Kindernay since the torque levels we are talking about are well past what its rated for. Uncharted territory.
On a dual drive train, the motor power does not go through the gear box, which is one of the major advantages.
The gears internal will only see the pedaling power like on an analog bike
 
On a dual drive train, the motor power does not go through the gear box, which is one of the major advantages.
The gears internal will only see the pedaling power like on an analog bike
of course. duh I should have realized that :D
 
This motor/drive system would be the "Cat's Meow",
if you could drop the old Bafang Ultra out and bolt up this power plant,
and use it on/in your favorite frame.
The best of both worlds. Good bye Bafang and hello Biktix XD..........
 
A simple premade adaptor plate might just work.............
or it may be possible that the XD motor frame can be drilled for the Bafang spec's,
Something to think about Biktix, you have the ball rolling, now kick a field goal.
 
Yeah this was brought up to them in Biktrix' announcement thread. You would need a special rear wheel build for sure with a hub that can accommodate a left+right sprocket. Not a dealbreaker.
 
Not if they have a mid drive.

My midtail is the one I use in steep hills in the Monterey Bay area, and I blow past Rad Wagon riders on the uphill (there are rentals here as well as local riders), who I can see are not doing so good pedaling uphill. I recently upgraded to a Microshift Advent 11-46T rear drivetrain so I could get better chain alignment on a bigger cluster. Formerly had a Shimano HG-400 that maxed out at 32T. I can almost pedal without effort if I want to hammer it and peak at around 12-15 mph up steep hills, loaded.

View attachment 118843
I fixed my broken spoke and was able to put the wheels with the big tires back on last weekend.

In a world like this 300Nm and a secondary beefed-up drivetrain is the perfect idea for riders replacing an auto.

What cargo bike is that and does it have a throttle?


This motor is exactly what I'm looking for. To bad there already sold out. I'd love a cargo with the setup and a full suspension.
 
What cargo bike is that and does it have a throttle?
It is a Mongoose Envoy where I essentially used the bike as a frame donor and replaced everything but frame, headset and fork. I did a full writeup on the build in the link below. One page on that series is dedicated to low cost build configs. Something not on that web site is my addition of the Kinekt suspension stem, which is pretty awesome. Couple that to the Thudbuster LT seatpost, the 30 psi 2.8" Speedster tires and the Ergon ST Core Prime saddle and you have a super comfy ride.

I could be talked into selling it if you're interested. I'm going to bring my Surly Big Fat Dummy home to replace it.
I'd love a cargo with the setup and a full suspension.
Believe it or not you don't want full suspension. A cargo bike gets loaded with a LOT of heavy stuff as its job. All that does is compress the suspension to its max while the bike is parked. If you supersize the suspension to account for that, you end up with stability issues, as a loaded cargo bike is a bit of a balancing act as it is, and if you add in a suspension that moves you make a bad situation worse. A mitigating factor is that longtails and bakfiets are ... long. And as such even a rigid frame has more give built into it than any normal bike. So they tend to be surprisingly comfy.

If you do it right ($$$) you can do a front suspension fork. My BFD had a Rockshox Bluto on it originally and I had a really nasty death wobble that turned out to be the fork's fault. I found this out when I sold it on and replaced it with a Wren Inverted fork, which just like magic stabilized the bike completely and still gave me shock absorption.
 
It is a Mongoose Envoy where I essentially used the bike as a frame donor and replaced everything but frame, headset and fork. I did a full writeup on the build in the link below. One page on that series is dedicated to low cost build configs. Something not on that web site is my addition of the Kinekt suspension stem, which is pretty awesome. Couple that to the Thudbuster LT seatpost, the 30 psi 2.8" Speedster tires and the Ergon ST Core Prime saddle and you have a super comfy ride.

I could be talked into selling it if you're interested. I'm going to bring my Surly Big Fat Dummy home to replace it.

Believe it or not you don't want full suspension. A cargo bike gets loaded with a LOT of heavy stuff as its job. All that does is compress the suspension to its max while the bike is parked. If you supersize the suspension to account for that, you end up with stability issues, as a loaded cargo bike is a bit of a balancing act as it is, and if you add in a suspension that moves you make a bad situation worse. A mitigating factor is that longtails and bakfiets are ... long. And as such even a rigid frame has more give built into it than any normal bike. So they tend to be surprisingly comfy.

If you do it right ($$$) you can do a front suspension fork. My BFD had a Rockshox Bluto on it originally and I had a really nasty death wobble that turned out to be the fork's fault. I found this out when I sold it on and replaced it with a Wren Inverted fork, which just like magic stabilized the bike completely and still gave me shock absorption.
Thanks, ya I wasn't real clear, I was meaning to say I'll take 2 bikes a FS and a cargo with that setup. I'll send you a message to get details on yours.
 
Does the bike go so fast that pedaling is ineffective after a certain speed?
That’s pretty common with 1000W BBSHD motors. Clown pedaling with PAS.

Seems overly complex when a tried and true motor like the BBSHD with a strong parts stream can be so much more.
 
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That’s pretty common with 1000W BBSHD motors. Clown pedaling with PAS.
That necessarily... does not need to be true.
The common and/or default programming that most use and pass around in my opinion is flawed for the average user and/or exercise rider. I don't clown pedal at all up to PAS 8 and the only reason I can in PAS 9 is that it is shared by my throttle for full speed/power.
The notion that power must increase with each PAS increase is the error of your ways.
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These are not my latest settings but close enough to understand what can be done. Obviously these are tuned to my bike, weight, physical ability and style (exercise) of riding.
I've found these along with my other settings offer the most natural experience with minimal motor overpowering... ymmv.
 
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