2016 Turbo X: First week (and beyond) commuting impressions
- Thread starter StormTrooper2
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StormTrooper2
Member
Just put the rear wheel back on. Not too difficult other than the awkward mass. Torqued the rear axle to 15 Nm. The shop that repaired the rear spoke and trued the wheel tightened it by feel. Felt like it must have been at least 25-30 lb-ft, or about 34-40 Nm. The O-ring was very squished. I'll try to size a replacement and get it locally.
Tube repair holding. Still considering putting Green Slime in the tubes. Not worried about mess because the slime is in the tube. It can stay in for 2 years, then toss the tube and repeat. The Blackbelt must provide some puncture resistance, but all it took was a thick staple to flatten the rear tire, dead center in the tread. I can't afford to be sidelined on the way to work longer than about 30 minutes. With the slime the staple wouldn't have caused a flat, even after pulling it out...just keep on rolling. Not yet to the point of riding in the rain. 28 miles in the rain is intolerable (for me). It's been awhile since I've searched, but I am looking for fender alternatives for the X. I'm not impressed with the expensive Specialized fenders for the Turbo X. I want more complete wheel coverage.
Tube repair holding. Still considering putting Green Slime in the tubes. Not worried about mess because the slime is in the tube. It can stay in for 2 years, then toss the tube and repeat. The Blackbelt must provide some puncture resistance, but all it took was a thick staple to flatten the rear tire, dead center in the tread. I can't afford to be sidelined on the way to work longer than about 30 minutes. With the slime the staple wouldn't have caused a flat, even after pulling it out...just keep on rolling. Not yet to the point of riding in the rain. 28 miles in the rain is intolerable (for me). It's been awhile since I've searched, but I am looking for fender alternatives for the X. I'm not impressed with the expensive Specialized fenders for the Turbo X. I want more complete wheel coverage.
James Kohls
Active Member
@StormTrooper2: Last I checked, there seem to be a lot more fender options if you're willing to switch to a 38c tire vs the 47c on our bikes. I haven't felt a need to do so yet. I have waterproof shoes, pants, and jacket. To help reduce the skunk-tail effect spraying on my back, I've cut a piece of wood that I lay over my cargo rack and seems to prevent that from becoming an issue. I know others have found putting longer mud flaps on their fender helps a bit too.
StormTrooper2
Member
James - Thanks for the suggestions on fender options. I would like to stay with the 47c tires. Airing them down from about 70 psi to 55 psi has smoothed the ride, and as described in one of my earlier posts it seems to have greatly reduced the forces of impacts on the spokes (rear specifically...as the front has a suspension fork). I'll do some searching for recent options. I don't mind hacking something to make it work....actually, nothing beats an awesome cheap hack 
StormTrooper2
Member
Well, I don't know when it happened, or at what miles figure (since software was updated for a second time) - the odometer has reset to zero again. Noticed it yesterday on the way home from work when I pulled over to change my assist level. Toggling through the screens I noticed the odometer and trip meter read the same value. So, this likely started happening every time I recharged....just didn't notice when. I'm not going back for 3rd attempt. Specialized either can't fix the problem, or doesn't care to fix it. I think the latter is more likely. Or, the shop where I bought the bike, and the only authorized shop within an hour of my home, doesn't care. It's possible the shop tells lies and updates have never been performed. I don't have evidence ...but it is a possibility. If anyone keeps track of how often the rear tire needs to be replaced due to wear, please share. The rear wears much faster than the front. My new total mileage metric will be in "number of rear tires replaced". Sucks...I guess this is what happens when we represent such a small portion of sales for a manufacturer or bike shop.
Douglas Ruby
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Groton
If you have a 2016 Turbo X, you can load Mission Conteol on an Android or IOS Smartphone and cheeck the battery firmware version yourself.
StormTrooper2
Member
Thanks so much for this tip. I DO have the Mission Control app. I'm heading to the garage...
StormTrooper2
Member
Battery firmware: v. 1.14
Motor firmware: v. 55
I assume the battery firmware is related to the odometer issue. Does anyone know the most recent firmware designation?
Motor firmware: v. 55
I assume the battery firmware is related to the odometer issue. Does anyone know the most recent firmware designation?
Douglas Ruby
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Groton
The motor firmware on my base Turbo is v. 55. I have the 691 Wh Turbo S battery which has firmware v. 5.9 With the 540 Wh 2016 Turbo X battery, you have a different battery from either my Turbo S battery or my older 468 Wh Turbo battery, which had v. 1.6.1 (I think). Just ask the LBS to tell you what the most current Turbo X battery firmware should be. Also, note that if you know what your overall ODO setting should be, you can have the LBS set it in the battery.
Douglas Ruby
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
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- Groton
I called Specialized Rider Support. It took a while, but I found out that the battery and motor firmware on my bike are current. By the way, I ALWAYS charge my battery off of the bike. Could that affect why my odometer has NOT reset ever?
StormTrooper2
Member
I may not have the firmware that came with my bike originally. My bike has had the firmware updated twice by the LBS (an hour from my home) and the odometer issue continues. At this point I need to hear Specialized tell me what the latest firmware version is for the 2016 X.
On the positive side, I rode it to work today, and for the first time I used ECO 60%, easily maintained 20-22 mph for most of my 28 mile trip home, and arrived at home with 40% charge remaining (this included using Turbo mode for a long hill about a mile from home). It was at 48% when I switched from ECO 60 to Turbo. The X has a higher capacity battery than the base model. I have forgotten the battery Wh spec. I'll check.
Douglas, thank you for looking into this and reporting what you learned.
Saratoga Dave
Well-Known Member
I'm bumping into a lack of clear understanding of how the cadence vs torque sensing works in daily usage, specifically on the Turbos. Maybe one of you fine folks can help me out.
On my cadence sensing eJoe Koda, we've got assist 1 which gives a little boost till about 10mph. Assist 2 a bit stronger kick, goes till about 15mph; 3 dials it up again till about 19, and 4 gives you a lot of kick across the spectrum. There ain't a lot of variation, the boost is what it is within each level. So I can ride along on flats easily without any assist at maybe 14 - 15 mph, and when the hill appears, punch the Plus button to the assist I want to get over it. I've found that if you're use patient enough, you can get over some impressive inclines even at level 2, as long as you're in a low enough gear and just keep the pedals turning over as smoothly as possible.
So here come all you guys talking about riding at Eco 50, or 60, or whatever, and it sounds like a different and interesting world. So do you just leave a Turbo on whatever setting you've dialed in (except maybe for full turbo assist, I sort of get that) and the torque sensing feeds you what you need? I've never had the opportunity to try A Turbo or any torque sensing bike, but after reading all the threads about the bike, have been feeling that one of these might be my next stop in the ebike world. Of course, now it seems like Specialized is moving to mid drives, so if true that may add some urgency to any decision. From all my following the dedicated Turbo fans here, they sound terrific. I love the fact that they have the whole Specialized name standing behind them as well.
On my cadence sensing eJoe Koda, we've got assist 1 which gives a little boost till about 10mph. Assist 2 a bit stronger kick, goes till about 15mph; 3 dials it up again till about 19, and 4 gives you a lot of kick across the spectrum. There ain't a lot of variation, the boost is what it is within each level. So I can ride along on flats easily without any assist at maybe 14 - 15 mph, and when the hill appears, punch the Plus button to the assist I want to get over it. I've found that if you're use patient enough, you can get over some impressive inclines even at level 2, as long as you're in a low enough gear and just keep the pedals turning over as smoothly as possible.
So here come all you guys talking about riding at Eco 50, or 60, or whatever, and it sounds like a different and interesting world. So do you just leave a Turbo on whatever setting you've dialed in (except maybe for full turbo assist, I sort of get that) and the torque sensing feeds you what you need? I've never had the opportunity to try A Turbo or any torque sensing bike, but after reading all the threads about the bike, have been feeling that one of these might be my next stop in the ebike world. Of course, now it seems like Specialized is moving to mid drives, so if true that may add some urgency to any decision. From all my following the dedicated Turbo fans here, they sound terrific. I love the fact that they have the whole Specialized name standing behind them as well.
reoutput
Member
You pretty much have the understanding down. It doesn't matter how fast you are pedaling but how hard. Also the assist is not dependent on speed till you hit the limit at 27mph/44kph or so for USA bikes or 16mph/25kph for euro specd bikes. Best thing to do is try one at your local dealer...just a warning, you're gonna want one
Douglas Ruby
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Groton
Just to second this...the ECO levels allow you to dial in a linear amount of assistance. Thus ECO50 provides about 1/2 the assistance of full TURBO. It also allows me to go about twice the distance. The e-assistance is provided across the entire speed range, however.You pretty much have the understanding down. It doesn't matter how fast you are pedaling but how hard. Also the assist is not dependent on speed till you hit the limit at 27mph/44kph or so for USA bikes or 16mph/25kph for euro specd bikes. Best thing to do is try one at your local dealer...just a warning, you're gonna want one
Hey Dave- Glad you are checking out the Turbo. I just got an X and am very happy with it so far (only about 2 weeks and 160 miles).
To add to what the others said, I don't think it impacts where the assist cuts out (max speed), just the strength of it. I'm still figuring it out for myself because sometimes I'll be cruising with pretty decent effort at 24 mph in Eco60 and then I'll switch to Turbo with no apparent impact (I'm still working just as hard and my speed is exactly the same). It seems like in that case the motor was already putting out max power in Eco60 and doesn't have any more to give. That would imply that any Eco setting can actually max out the motor and the difference between Turbo and Eco is simply how much your power is amplified (subject to max power).
Anyone have thoughts on that?
To add to what the others said, I don't think it impacts where the assist cuts out (max speed), just the strength of it. I'm still figuring it out for myself because sometimes I'll be cruising with pretty decent effort at 24 mph in Eco60 and then I'll switch to Turbo with no apparent impact (I'm still working just as hard and my speed is exactly the same). It seems like in that case the motor was already putting out max power in Eco60 and doesn't have any more to give. That would imply that any Eco setting can actually max out the motor and the difference between Turbo and Eco is simply how much your power is amplified (subject to max power).
Anyone have thoughts on that?
Allan47.7339
Well-Known Member
There is also a setting in the software that controls the acceleration rate. On the newer models with Bluetooth you can use the mission control app to change it. The older models like I have, the dealer software is needed to change it. Usually the dealers just set it to max accelleration.
StormTrooper2
Member
Dave - You could condense your solid understanding into this very short phrase that gives a clear idea what it feels like -- It feels like it's all YOU, only faster.
StormTrooper2
Member
I have noticed this also, but only when climbing a really steep hill on my way to work. I think some of this is also protective by design, so the motor doesn't over heat (this is why our gear-less hub motors aren't suited for hill-climbing). As soon as I reach the top and level out, Turbo does accelerate more than eco60.
I've wondered if the Turbo has a 2D accelerometer (as in an iPhone, etc.) that can send angle of incline info, along with other sensors for torque and cadence, so that the bike "knows" I'm climbing a steep hill, and makes some output adjustments accordingly.
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