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I started cycling less back in 1977 when my folks finally relented and helped me out with half of a Honda XR 75, and since then I've had lots of little motorcycles (all 250cc or under). Sold off my Ninja 250 a few years back, and built my BBSHD bike in June of 2020 to ride to work and on rail...

It depends on which display you have, but the menu is usually accessed by double-clicking the power switch when the display is on, then navigating to the 'advanced' settings which prompts for the PIN.

If you mean test it with a multitester, then no, I have not, but neither the original nor the known-working throttle from my other bike induce the controller to power the motor, nor does engaging walk-mode via the display controller.

So I have two controllers, two displays (p850c), a brand new motor cable, and brand new display cable. I've tried all possible combinations, and all result in a 30H error. On the original display it comes up immediately, while it takes 8-12 seconds for the error to appear on the new display...

Would a new harness resolve that, or do you mean it blew out those circuits on the display and/or controller?

Neither the throttle nor walk-mode work, but the error persists regardless of whether or not the throttle is connected.

Thanks, but I've even swapped in a new controller. Frustrating...

I built my son an electric kickbike back in 2020 (Bafang 500w front hub motor in the 100mm rear dropouts), and he had a wreck last Summer. We put the bike away while he healed up, and did a little refurb (internal cable routing, moved the controller into the battery bag) last month to get it...

No. It's a throttle or brake cut-off. You're better off running a buck converter off of the battery, anyway, as the 5v provided by most controllers won't power much of a light.

I've been thinking about doing this to tow my dirt jump bike up the humongous hill that's between me and the local pump track, and found this: https://mschausprojects.blogspot.com/2020/07/how-to-tow-bike-with-another-bike.html A little different from the usual methods, and looks really effective.

I like BikesDirect. Built my bike on their Deadeye 29er, which is great for an IGH build with horizontal open dropouts, and was a steal at $350 back at the start of the Troubles.

Not Canadian, but UtahTrikes.com does excellent trikes and quads.

If that's a Bafang hub and RKS hasn't changed the code for advanced settings you could try '1919' or '1199'. If the controller is locked you'd need to replace it to bypass the assist limits. I wouldn't want to be caught on an illegally modified bike in the event of an accident, though.

The Vado is a great commuter/fitness bike, and should be more than up to the task of a 12 mile commute and weekend rides. As for the sizing, since the shop has the Medium in stock the best bet would be to go try it, since other measurements like inseam and wingspan come into play. It's easier...

And don't get me started on the 20x4 "scrambler" bikes...

IMVHO, a quality, mid-drive fat eMTB is a thing of beauty and an absolute weapon in the right conditions, and perfectly adequate under normal circumstances (if, perhaps, sub-optimal). I'm a Plus guy, myself (for the moment; probably go with 2.5s once I wear out my 3.0s), but considered building...

One more pic. Think it's too slack? New head tube angle is 64 deg. Seemed fine on the ride to work and back today.

Oh, I've built a 2nd ebike for my son in the meantime. ; ) I'd strongly consider a reverts trike, with two wheels at the front, for your conversion. Check Top Gear footage of the Reliant Robin in action.

And, of course, the weather has turned to crap.

Manitou finally got the Mattoc Comp back in stock last month, and I got it installed last weekend. Works great, and slackens the headtube angle to 66 degrees, so a little closer to modern geometry. Looks the business, too, IMVHO.