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Yes, no current if batteries are charged but current flows if the pack voltage drops to a predetermined level. This could be a very basic balancing method used.

Ever heard of putting a smoke detector next to your charging station? 🤣

It’s stressful to the isolating membranes inside each battery cell. More possibility of a catastrophic meltdown and generally lowers the max voltage over time.

On my 2019 chargers the voltage stays at 54 even after the leds indicate the battery is charged.

It’s not that critical, just ride when you want to but leave it plugged in overnight 3 times in the first week.

I got my cruise working, the trick on mine is that you must have a throttle input or pedaling then hold down on the down button. Once the cruise mode is on just release the throttle. I’m running it on the kickstand.

The king meter guy said they all work on Rads. I posted a confusing post earlier, what I really need to know is if anyone has put an older KT display on a newer KT controller for troubleshooting or whatever. They have the same setup terms and same cable.

I have an older KT display non color. Is there ever a danger in trying a non compatible display even when it has the same plug?

The spec says 500w/750. On a motor that means it’s 500w but 750w can be sent to it on short term basis. Look at the thickness of the main motor section and compare to pictures on the Bolton video discussing Rad motors.

Which bike are you saying has a sine wave and how did you test it?

I posted before about a spare KT controller being square wave. I was simplifying it, it’s actually a trapezoid shaped wave. It’s very noisy on a Rad City. So now I’m looking at phase wires with an oscilloscope on a standard Rad controller and seeing near perfect square waves at all speeds. It’s...

Good job! What size came on yours? My 2019 has 2.3 in.

Bad solder joint inside the female end of the controller motor cable. Non repairable cable end but cannabilized a cable out of a square wave unit.

My 2019 Radcity controller started causing bad motor vibrations. I was 10 miles from home and had just ridden a normal ride on sidewalks and roads on a cool day in PAS 2 or 3 about 4 weeks ago. I have a motor extension cable cut open so signals can be checked. I just run it in Walk mode for now...

It’s probably the shifter cable inside the sheathing causing the issue. Or the shifter. The derailleur has a tough spring in it that works fine unless you have bent something.

I won’t install a load device on it unless later on I see a need for it. No load equals low torque equals no slippage with it cranked down. The torque washers are imbedded in the wood as over kill.

Spare parts in action. Waiting on a throttle for more fun. Need a friction load now. I can run it in Walk mode.

I probably should forget about it, sounds like a reduced safety item. If you don’t hit the brakes before crashing it won’t turn off.

Has anyone gotten their cruise control to work with the Bolton upgrade? I have C7=1 and tried both up and down arrows while going faster than 10 mph.

Not for engineering, just a throttle, controller, display, wire harness, battery, battery rack, motor/wheel and a friction stand. I have all but the stand and throttle on order. It’s just a 5k pot but didn’t want to poke wires into any connectors and damage the internal friction or have...