Cruise control
- Thread starter BKing
- Start date
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
I haven't done it with a Bolton upgrade, but the over the counter KT controllers I've done have cruise controls that work pretty good. I did have one though, that refused to work below 12mph, no matter what I did! I use it so seldom though, it was a non event.
It seems like there was a pair of wires that needed to be plugged in right near the controller, that along with having it enabled in the parameters were also required to be plugged in. This was an older controller though, that was not equipped with any waterproof connectors. -Al
It seems like there was a pair of wires that needed to be plugged in right near the controller, that along with having it enabled in the parameters were also required to be plugged in. This was an older controller though, that was not equipped with any waterproof connectors. -Al
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Geez, as mentioned I don't use it much, but it seems like if you do anything it will cancel? Pedaling, increasing the throttle, or hitting/taping the brakes will cancel it. Even if it slows too far when engaged. To put it another way, I never felt I was endangered by the feature!
I’m curious, does your cruise control remain on while using it during a normal ride/real world use? I’m having issues with mine staying on… I can engage it just as you show while stationary using the kickstand and throttle however when I’m riding as soon as I release the throttle or stop pedaling the cruise control disengages.
Mine stays on unless I tap a brake or a large movement of the throttle or pedaling. There is a minimum speed needed to, about 7 mph maybe. I know mine works at 8mph on up. Sounds like you might have a sensitive brake on switch. Look for the brake symbol to come on while parked and running on the kickstand and moving each brake lever one at a time just 1/8 in. You need enough play to handle bumps while riding with your fingers on the brake levers. If ok, now tap on the brake handle assembly with the cruise on and see if it shuts off. If not that it could be an erratic spike from the PAS sensor or throttle/throttle on/off switch.
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So I just checked, mine comes on starting around 18 km/hr and it doesn’t seem to be any issue with the brakes or throttle. As soon as I touch the pedals it kicks off so my guess is it’s related to the torque sensor being too sensitive perhaps?
Torque sensor? Which bike?
Yes but strange, I can pedal some and cruise stays on but the pedaling does not add more watts. Then after several seconds of pedaling it shuts off the cruise. Mine is 12 magnets. Try cleaning the magnet ring, it does get tiny fragments of stuff that stick on the magnets.
Yes but strange, I can pedal some and cruise stays on but the pedaling does not add more watts. Then after several seconds of pedaling it shuts off the cruise. Mine is 12 magnets. Try cleaning the magnet ring, it does get tiny fragments of stuff that stick on the magnets.
It’s Bolton ebikes new blackbird which I just received. It has a torque sensor instead of the more traditional cadence sensor, so there’s no magnets to clean sorta speak.
I have a Blackbird on order! Can’t wait!
At least we know the torque sensor is sensitive. Try Facebook and see if there are owners on there. If this is a software problem I would hope a controller update is in the works. That one is a 25 amp and mine is a 35 amp. Due to the higher battery voltage on the Blackbird I guess the 25 amp is enough. It’s also about reliability because a seller with a bike that maxes out near the wire melting point is going to have a warranty nightmare.
At least we know the torque sensor is sensitive. Try Facebook and see if there are owners on there. If this is a software problem I would hope a controller update is in the works. That one is a 25 amp and mine is a 35 amp. Due to the higher battery voltage on the Blackbird I guess the 25 amp is enough. It’s also about reliability because a seller with a bike that maxes out near the wire melting point is going to have a warranty nightmare.
Oh nice, I know the anticipation is up there for you, I ordered mine last Aug in the “November batch” but I’ll prepare you a little
. I’m hoping mine is a one off but I’ve had issues since I got it on May 4th 
. All the components are good quality but my battery is broken so they’re in the middle of trying to send a replacement and now it seems my torque sensor is on the fritz. Also make sure you have tools to assemble because the multitool isn’t coming with the bike. They ran out so it’ll be shipped at a later date. Customer service has been good so far if not a little slow, but I know they’re swamped. Good luck with yours
Hopefully you can keep the broken battery. Is the case busted or just an internal problem?
Yeah, ebiking turns most everyone into a bike mechanic that’s for sure. I already had lots of bike building and repair experience but as an electronics tech I look at the cables and shudder. I’ve been lucky sort of to have enough problems that I ended up repairing my bad motor and a bad controller so spares are nice to have and really essential to troubleshoot certain problems.
Yeah, ebiking turns most everyone into a bike mechanic that’s for sure. I already had lots of bike building and repair experience but as an electronics tech I look at the cables and shudder. I’ve been lucky sort of to have enough problems that I ended up repairing my bad motor and a bad controller so spares are nice to have and really essential to troubleshoot certain problems.
They diagnosed the issue to a faulty power switch that intermittently stops the power flow to the controller. No I don’t believe I’ll be keeping the battery, not surprised since it’s probably around $600 CAD.
No kidding, I’ve only had the bike a short time and I’ve had to do more tinkering than ever before.
