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Yeah it gets confusing. There’s the wheel diameter (700C) and then the outer diameter of the tire on the wheel when inflated (28”). 29’er is essentially a 700C rim with a knobby mountain bike tire installed.

Asher, check out the following link for e-bike tires. The Marathon Almotion actually has lower rolling resistance and better puncture protection than the Marathon Supremes. The only downside to the Almotions is the extra weight but I consider that a non-issue on an e-bike (especially a hub motor...

I’ve done it a few times in my living room. It’s not something I would ever want to do out in the field. It’s a pretty major pain even in the comfort of my living room. Fortunately I’ve never had a puncture while riding my CC. I’ve resigned myself to using Uber SUV if it does happen. I know...

Saw this video on YouTube. Not a great video but it gives you some idea of the riding experience. I know some of you are eagerly awaiting your orders.

Have you tried twisting the key whilst you try to install the battery? Theres a brass pin that holds the battery in place. It could be preventing you from getting the battery all the way over in position so that the pin seats in the buttery to lock it in place. I’m 5’9” with a 32” cycling...

One more option (not my video). This guy said he was having wrist pain.

Yes, they should fit if your rear wheel is fairly true. The 2” Almotions measured almost identical in width to the stock Kendas once installed on the stock rims. So you can use the stock 45mm Kendas as a reference on your bike (just eyeball the clearance on your bike.) If you have ~2mm of...

I’ve got 28x2.0 Schwalbe Marathon Almotions on my original Cross Current. I would get the 2.15” version if I could do it all over again but I wasn’t sure if they would fit when I was placing my order. Great tires with low rolling resistance and a very good ride quality at reasonable pressures...

I took the Super Commuter up as fast as it would go but I don’t remember the exact speed. I’ve ridden a bunch of Stromers and I always get off them thinking that rigid forks and high speed riding don’t mix. I’ve seen Ravi post on the forums that he considers suspension forks mandatory when...

I test rode the Super Commuter. Having test ridden a bunch of Stromers it basically feels like a mid-drive Stromer to me (and that’s not a bad thing.) I’m a fan of the Bosch Performance Line in general so it’s definitely no complaints about the responsiveness. But the system peaks around...

Just realize that Bosch charges around $1000 for a replacement 500Wh battery. If you’re charging it 2X a day to 100% five days per week that could get expensive. I like Bosch but until they come up with a bigger battery option I think their system is not very practical to use on longer commutes.

I run a 12-28 cassette on my e-bike. I like the 1 tooth jumps from 12-17. The 48x12 should put your cadence in the 80’s.

What would the benefit be of using the throttle if you have to also pedal to get to 28mph? I guess I’m not seeing how that would help. IME, you really don’t need to pedal that hard above 20mph to max out the pedal assist. Also, it’s not hard for me to see how that would violate the spirit of the...

Don’t forget the added weight of a fat bike. The Rip Current S is around 20lbs. heavier than the Cross Current S (which is no featherweight.) For me, once you add a suspension seatpost to the Cross Current and drop the tire pressures down to a reasonable level the ride is pretty good over bumps...

As I understand it, there is no way to make a class 3 legal e-bike without having the throttle cut the assist at 20mph. On my Cross Current I typically use the throttle + pedaling to get up to 15mph and then release the throttle and continue pedaling up to ~28mph. IME you don’t have to pedal...

There’s no way to know how many charge cycles are on the battery. It’s also a proprietary battery design that may be hard to find replacements for in the future and it’s quite expensive (close to $1k to replace.) I wouldn’t personally buy a bike with such a small battery if you need to go 24...

The throttle works like the pedal assist at 28mph. Once you get up to 20mph the controller starts pulling the power back. So you can pedal as hard as you want but you’re not going to go much faster than 20mph. You can always use a hybrid approach. Use the throttle up to ~20mph and then release...

The Satiator has a few default profiles. One of those default profiles is 85% which charges to 52.6V. The great thing about the Satiator is that you can add a bunch of custom profiles. I mainly charge to 51.0 or 52.0V unless I know that I need the extra range. I’ve got a 1A/2A charge profile...

Is it 12 miles one-way or round-trip? That battery should just barely work if your R/T commute is 12 miles. But as the battery degrades the range would start to suffer. Many people don’t realize that, if you charge the battery to 100%, you only get 400-500 cycles before it is degraded by ~50%...

You might want to verify that before you buy a bike. I’m a huge e-bike fan but I don’t know if I could get my 55lb e-bike up a flight of stairs. I mean, I’m sure I could but it might be too much hassle to do so on a regular basis.