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Try C1= 0 Mine is on the left and I went from 4 to 5 and got way better sensitivity.

Your PAS sensor must be on the right. Mine is on the left. Do your testing while leaning the bike on the kickstand.

How fast are you pedaling from initial start to 3 mph? In other words, which manual gear are you in? You need C1=5 for good takeoff without throttle and manual gear 3 or 4. I just use the throttle on every start because of knees and I leave it in 7th gear.

The bike weight and lateral forces especially on the rear tire when loaded require a specially designed tire.

Yeah, I hate when people leave out commas and I done it too. 🤣

For those that use 7th gear most of the time it’s cheaper to just replace it when replacing the chain. This one fits perfectly on Amazon. SHIMANO CS-M771 Sprocket Wheel 11T (Built in Spacer Type) for BJ/BK-Group

I keep spares from Rad, just used my last one. With the Rad ones it’s full length sheathing which should be replaced at least on the rear. Only $8 including the cable.

Rear brake cable broke today on wife's bike while I was doing a stationary bike check. It broke somewhere near the middle. 5300 miles. I had changed her front one and my rear one already due to slight fraying. These cables should be replaced every two years for safety on these heavy bikes...

Sounds good! The front wheel bearings only retain enough grease for 1k miles. I overlooked that and had to buy a rim/axle/cone nut assembly. The wear items are the rim and cone nuts. Getting it adjusted just right (no play and no drag) on the bearings takes experience. Better to have micro play...

The Cloud 9 is nice but requires a more upright posture for me to hit the sweet spot. I already wore out two other wide saddles. The wide one at Walmart is actually a very good seat too.

I got the Bolton upgrade controller and display. It has access to lots of program tweaks in it. I think this will solve the problem. It also has a way to adjust the regen levels.

The 48v has 19% unusable charge left using a 42v cutoff. The 52v needs 44v cutoff to prevent stress but it can be set a few volts lower. Just don’t get in the habit of running it down. 44v is 12% unusable charge left.

Well, you almost get it but not quite. Maybe your version is different or you are just explaining not as simple as I did. My posts are 100% correct.

After much testing here is how P3 works. When on 0 the amount of throttle power is limited to whichever PAS you are on. It also imposes a speed limit on each PAS where it rolls off the power as you reach that predetermined speed in the firmware. When on 1 everything works as expected with full...

Why? Everyone knows P4 must be zero to use throttle at startup. In other words P4 = 0 to use throttle when not pedaling ie start up across a road quickly Please start your own thread.

After much testing here is how P3 works. When on 0 the amount of throttle power is limited to whichever PAS you are on. It also imposes a speed limit on each PAS where it rolls off the power as you reach that predetermined speed in the firmware. When on 1 everything works as expected with full...

Found this late tonight. I think this is a simpler explanation. P3 = 1 - when this value is 0, throttle max power is determined by the PAS level. when it's 1, max throttle is allowed regardless of PAS level.

P3 1 = full throttle available on all PAS No effect unless throttle is used.

No throttle involved. Rads don’t monitor rate of cadence just if there is a certain minimum amount read from the sensor at the crank area. The Bolton has 5 PAS but it has an overall gain C14 you change from 1,2,3. With 3 being the highest. In higher PAS settings it’s not noticeable as much...

Lots of people dislike many ebike brands because the speed is different in say PAS 1 between two bikes/riders. There are several factors in play but it’s mostly body weight. The Bolton upgrade can fix this. I program C14 in the controller to 2 so my PAS 1 has more power. I can now cruise easily...