Can Lectric's ONE be converted to kt-lcd3?

PCeBiker,​

Not to that point yet, but probably closer than I like to think...

Tom




Well,
Here's a 30 amp KT controller that has the larger motor plug that I think you need, so you shouldn't need an adapter, but it may be larger than your current controller, and might not fit?


I just found this on AliExpress:
Electric Bike KT Controller 36V 48V 15A 17A 22A 25A 30A Waterproof Brushless 250W 350W 500W 1000W Hub Motor with Light Function




The other connectors may fit your current connectors, possibly including the brake switch connectors that's part of the 1-5 cable.
(The 1-5 cable is for a KT controller with a light output.
A KT controller without a light output is cheaper, and has a 1-4 cable without the light output.)
 

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; the motor is either off or on - no speed modulation. This is apparently the way Lectric designed this thing...


This is the standard throttle input voltage for pretty much Every hub motor,..


Screenshot_20260801_143216_AliExpress.jpg




A throttle puts out between 1 and 4.2 volts.
1 volt is when the throttle first activates, then the voltage goes up to 4.2 volts for Full throttle.

Lectric (and my first ebike) decided that any voltage between 1 and 4.2 volts means GO !! Full Blast !!

The controller ignores the throttle position (throttle output voltage) and goes to Maximum Power with ANY throttle input.

(Fricken stupid programming.
It pissed me off so much that I replaced my controller and display within three months of getting my ebike.)
 
I found a cable adapter that might fit your motor plug.

Then you can use a smaller 22 or 25 amp KT controller that will probably fit where current controller is mounted?


Screenshot_20260801_151404_AliExpress.jpg




I just found this on AliExpress:
E-Bike Hub Motor Adapter Cable 9Pin Male to 10Pin/11Pin Female, Compatible with BAFANG System for Motor Wheel Upgrade



And you can get a complete KT conversion kit that comes with everything you need, including brake levers.
It's simple plug & play.


Screenshot_20260801_152741_AliExpress.jpg



I just found this on AliExpress:
Ebike SineWave KT Controller 36V 48V 15A/17A/22A/25A/30A with LCD3 LCD8H LED880 Display For Electric Bike Conversion Kit Parts



You basically remove all your electronics from your ebike except the motor and battery, and install the KT conversion kit.


The brake levers have safety switches, and are for cable actuated brakes.
Hydraulic brakes will need to have switches installed on the brake levers.
If your levers have brake switches, you can splice into the wire.
(simple two wire connection. Polarity doesn't matter)
 
it became obvious the new controller wouldn't have a connector for the Pinion automatic transmission.

Yeah, you've got a proprietary controller.
I thought you had a standard hub drive ebike like my first ebike and the one in the Grin video.

You've got added issues with proprietary connectors, and the physical shape, size, and mounting tabs of the controller as well.


I'll keep trying to make the present controller work


I think that the only way to get your current controller to work would be some sort of firmware update or software hack for the controller?

I have no idea if that's even possible with what you have?

People were trying to change the programming for my first ebike to try and unlock it.



If it were me, and that was my ebike, I'd look into adding an externally mounted KT controller that would plug directly into the hub-drive motor cable.

Then try and get the original controller to only control the pinion gear shifter.
Maybe a separate manually operated shifter controller, so the original controller can be bypassed?

The original motor cable would be disconnected, but you might be able to work around any error codes.
 
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I thought the idea was to get the CAv3 so that you could program the throttle modulation. Grin also sells different kinds of throttles.


The Cycle Analyst sends the Throttle OUT signal (ThO) to the motor controller via the CA-DP connector. It can be set up as either a variable voltage signal for ebike controllers or as a digital 1-2mS pulse for RC controllers. The min to max output range should be adjusted to correspond to the throttle input range of the controller to ensure the controller is driven to max at full operator throttle and is completely OFF when the operator throttle is closed.
Ramping options can help achieve smooth power engagement and remove the aggressive edge from powerful motor systems. When Up, Down, Fast, or PAS rate limiting are in effect a small {U,D,F,P} flag appears before the OUT voltage on the Diagnostic Screen to assist in tuning these settings.
[ ThrO->Outpt Mode ]
Selects between a steady analog voltage output on the CA Throttle Output line or a 1-2ms RC servo style pulse output. Almost all ebike and EV controllers operate off a voltage throttle signal, while the R/C pulse mode enables the CA to control compact ESCs from the hobby industry.
[ ThrO->Min Out ]
This is the voltage or pulse width sent to the controller for ZERO rider throttle. It should be about 0.2V below the actual voltage where the motor controller starts to respond. The default value of 1.0V is fine for most setups, but if the controller does not start turning the motor until 1.4 or 1.5V from the CA, then the Min Out setting could be increased to ~1.2-1.3V for a faster throttle response with less deadband.
[ ThrO-> Max Out ]
This is the voltage or pulse width sent to the controller for FULL rider throttle. Most ebike controllers will achieve full output between 3.5 to 3.9V on the throttle, and the CA3's Max Out should be at least 0.1V higher than this to achieve full power.
NOTE: Many controllers have a throttle overvoltage fault similar to ThrI->FaultThrsh. The CA3's Max Out must be lower than this controller fault or the controller will shut off at full throttle.
[ ThrO->Down Rate ]
Determines the maximum rate at which the throttle output can ramp downwards. For safety reasons you would generally leave this at a high value so that the system can shut off promptly, but there can be times where a slower disengagement of motor power is preferred. Values of 4 to 8 V/sec are recommended. Ebrakes cut power immediately and are unaffected by this setting.
[ ThrO->Up Rate ]*
Determines the maximum rate at which the throttle output can ramp upwards once current greater than FastThrsh is detected. This setting is popular for smoothing out the harsh kick on powerful systems. A lower value in V/sec will result in a longer time for the throttle to ramp up and results in a more gentle application of power. Values of 0.5 to 3 V/sec are recommended.
[ ThrO->PAS Rate ]
Determines the maximum rate at which the throttle output can ramp upwards when engaging in PAS mode. This can be used to achieve a smooth PAS power application while still allowing for a fast response with the throttle. Operation is otherwise as with UpRate.
[ ThrO->Fast Rate ]
Determines the maximum rate at which the throttle output can ramp upwards when controller current is less than FastThrsh. When current reaches FastThrsh, the rate becomes governed by UpRate or PASRate. This dual rate approach allows the Throttle output to quickly reach a level that starts having a measurable effect on the motor before then dropping to the normal Up or PAS rate limit. This eliminates time lag for a ramped throttle output to catch up with the bike when you apply the throttle and are already moving. Values of 3-8 V/sec are recommended for controllers that have an immediate response. For controllers with built-in ramping (such as eZee), or sensorless controllers that have a startup routine delay, a lower FastRate rate may be required to prevent overshoot.
[ ThrO->Fast Thrsh ]
Determines the threshold controller current at which the CA's output ramp switches from FastRate to UpRate or PASRate. This setting should be quite low for direct drive hub motors, such as 1-2A. However, for gear motors or mid-drives, the setting should be a bit higher than the no-load current required to accelerate the motor from stopped, typically 2 to 4 Amps. A value of 0A disables FastRate so only UpRate or PASRate is applied.
 
I thought the idea was to get the CAv3 so that you could program the throttle modulation.


I'm guessing that the throttle signal is being properly modulated?

It's the controller itself that is ignoring the modulation?

That Grin Frankenstein controller would probably fix the throttle problem and it's small, so it should fit, but you'd have the same issue of having to connect it, as well as connecting the gearbox control mechanism.
 
RunForTheHills,

A wee bit of progress. Lowering the Throttle Up Rate did seem to take some of the lurch out of the startup. Progress!

The interesting thing about the throttle response from the Lectric controller now is the WFO (wide open throttle) that occurs after the softer start. The WFO is the second problem. It has always been there either with or without the CAV3.

Trying to modulate the steady speed at say 10mph becomes a lurch lurch lurch exercise.

It's almost as though any voltage at all on the Lectric controller from the throttle is interpreted as WFO.

I'll see if I can find the voltages from the throttle and to the controller. Maybe they'll trigger another learning experience.

Thank you again,

Tom

PCeBiker,

I'm listening! I'll see if I can find out the voltages which should help.

Tom
 
Not looking good for the home team: if the controller gets more than 1.35V it goes wide open. Interestingly PAS1 is a slower wide open than PAS2 and above but WFO nonetheless. And CAV3 does help tone down the initial lurch, but no help after that.

So it begins to look exactly like what PCeBiker has been trying to tell me: the controller firmware is set up to go WFO with almost any voltage input.

I've complained to Lectric about this previously - the lurch and the inability to hold a steady speed - both for the ONE and the Trike2 750, but no help there.

Perhaps there's no external "sneak-around" to apply from the CAV3 in spite of Grin's assurance this would work. I'm sure their defense will be that they don't know anything about proprietary systems such as Lectric.

Education is never free,

Tom
 
If it were me, I'd try to figure out how the Automatic transmission connection works, and try to operate it manually.

Then I'd be able to replace the controller with a Grin Frankenstein controller which should Easily fit in your controller space. (even if it isn't bolted in place)
 
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