Turbo Vado SL5 2022 wheelset recommendation

AndyK2479

New Member
Region
United Kingdom
Hello all, after some advice on behalf of the wife. Her Vado has just come back from the LBS minus the OEM DT Swiss rear wheel and been replaced with a TRYP one as a stop gap until we can source a new wheelset.

Any recommendations for a replacement wheelset for her Vado? Unfortunately we can't get the OEM set so looking for a new set of wheels.

We are in the UK, maximum around £400 or $ and € equivalent, noisy freehub preferably (her choice not mine 😃)

Thanks in advance.
 
I would suggest talking with a wheel-builder shop/business. The wheel-builder would like to know this information first:
  • The estimated total weight of the rider + the e-bike + any cargo (total system weight)
  • The fact it is an e-bike, and the general terrain to be ridden
Then, the wheel builder will try to determine this information together with you:

Rear wheel
  • The rim size: diameter (27.5 or 29") and the internal rim width. If you do not know the rim width, you will be asked for the tyre width you are using
  • The number of spokes you prefer. For instance, 32 spokes for an extremely durable wheel
  • The rear hub size (for instance, 12 x 148 mm)
  • The brake rotor mount (eg., 6 bolts or Centerlock)
    • Bear in mind, there is a magnet socket installed on the brake rotor: you might need to send it to the wheel builder!
  • The number of speeds of your cassette; Shimano or SRAM? (Give the model of the derailleur and the cassette)
Front wheel
  • The wheel size and the internal rim diameter
  • Number of spokes
  • The front hub size (e.g. 15x110 mm)
The wheel builder may come up with more questions, and when all the information is clear, he/she will suggest the components:
  • The rims
  • The hubs
  • The spokes
then the price, and the delivery time.

There is no better way to secure a good set of wheels than ordering from a renowned wheel-builder. They also buy the components in bulk, so the end-user price can be nice. Note: I am a believer in wheels made of DT Swiss components and Sapim spokes. A good starting point is a DT Swiss rear hub of a proper number of spoke holes and the size, the DT 350.
 
Hi Andy

Spesh picked an awkward wheel axle size when they released the Vado SL! I was idly looking into this recently and I worked out my best bet was to get some 29er MTB XC wheels, these are lightweight and strong. The rear axle is the same axle size as a lot of 29ers; 12x110mm boost so a lot of options there. The front axle is 12mm x 110mm thru-axle and that's the issue. But you can get a MTB 29er XC front wheel easily at 15x110mm and then find and use a shim to make up the size to 15. This opens a wide range of alloy and carbon rim options. Haven't done this yet I should add, but can't see why it wouldn't work and I'm presuming the Vado SL 5 has same size wheels as my Vado SL 4.
 
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The custom rear wheel I ordered from a wheel builder for my Vado SL 1 4.0:
  • Hub: DT Swiss DT 350 Classic 12x148 mm, Centerlock (for the brake rotor and the speed magnet bracket), originally DT Swiss HG freehub for 11-speed later replaced with DT Swiss Microspline freehub for Shimano 12-speed cassette. 32 spoke holes.
  • 29" DT Swiss U623 rim, 25 mm internal rim width, 32 spoke holes
  • 32 Sapim Strong spokes.
I didn't order the front wheel. The problem here is the 12x110 mm Road Boost Axle. (My builder would have such a hub if needed).

Note: The U623 is the strongest DT Swiss rim, designed for e-bikes.
 
Thanks for the recommendations and ideas........but now she has a bigger problem.
The bike has just had its 3rd drive side crank fitted after the previous 2 had splines that were worn.
This 3rd one was torqued to 50nm by the LBS who fitted it. Took it for a ride yesterday, hadn't done more than 100m before she heard a crack sound and once again there is lots of play in the crank.
I'm guessing it's the motor spindle splines which are worn and that looks like being a more expensive repair?
 
Thanks for the recommendations and ideas........but now she has a bigger problem.
The bike has just had its 3rd drive side crank fitted after the previous 2 had splines that were worn.
This 3rd one was torqued to 50nm by the LBS who fitted it. Took it for a ride yesterday, hadn't done more than 100m before she heard a crack sound and once again there is lots of play in the crank.
I'm guessing it's the motor spindle splines which are worn and that looks like being a more expensive repair?
Wow. Never had that problem, or heard of it on here. 3 cranks? Something dodgy going on there. I have my Vado SL coming up for 6 years no issue like that (thank god). How old is the bike? Much mileage?
 
It will be 3 years old in August, she has put 6500 miles on it, so plenty of use.

The crank isn't loose at the bolt, I can't even move it with my 8mm Allen wrench, so it's definitely torqued.

It's almost as if the splines are not marrying up and there is too much wear for them to engage
 
My drive-side crankarm gave up 2 1/2 years into the usage. No issues after replacing it, and my Vado SL 1 has now over 20,000 km on the odometer, 5 years old.
 
It will be 3 years old in August, she has put 6500 miles on it, so plenty of use.

The crank isn't loose at the bolt, I can't even move it with my 8mm Allen wrench, so it's definitely torqued.

It's almost as if the splines are not marrying up and there is too much wear for them to engage
It's a common problem with the ISSIS type spindle which is why they fell out of favor. They work great as long as they are installed properly and kept tight. The Turbo S used that type of crank and I had one fall off on a ride many years ago. It was not good until I replaced the bottom bracket. I even tried the special filler Loctite suggested by FSA. The spindle is part of the Vado SL Mahle motor. There are no spare parts for the motors internals unless it's a bearing that is from a standard catalog. The rebuild shops may have spindles they have salvaged damaged motors but it's a part that is in demand and you have to check with them. I assume Specialized did not specify a system of spare parts in order to keep the OEM cost of the motors down.
 
Taking the bike into a Specialized dealer tomorrow.
I've sent some photos of the spindle(which for some reason I can't post on here) and they seem to think it may just require the wave washer.......that should have been picked up by the LBS, especially as on the first occasion the bike was under warranty and they were still a Specialized Dealer at the time!!
 
Taking the bike into a Specialized dealer tomorrow.
I've sent some photos of the spindle(which for some reason I can't post on here) and they seem to think it may just require the wave washer.......that should have been picked up by the LBS, especially as on the first occasion the bike was under warranty and they were still a Specialized Dealer at the time!!

Good luck with your LBS and Specialized. If this is a known, common problem, as @Allan47.7339 says, seems like this should be warranty repair.

Uploaded photo file sizes must be under 2MB. Works fine if you stick to that.
 
Never cease to be amazed by your deep technical knowledge of Specialized bikes. Do you or did you work for them?
No just an owner. The last few years of working I was bicycle commuting about 20 miles each way so I learned to do my own maintenance to keep on the road.

Actually I misspoke, I think I just replaced the cranks not the bottom bracket. The mention of a wave washer jogged my memory.
 
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Quick update. We took the bike into the nearest Specialized authorized dealer.......and all it needs was the special washer designed to take up the play.
This wasn't picked up by our local LBS almost 2 years ago as they weren't aware of the maintenance bulletin from Specialized regarding this problem
........
 
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