Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

Is 15,000 km a normal lifespan for an electric bike? That's not very long (3 or 4 years!).

For the moment, I don't ride a lot since my motors have problems...! :(
It really depends. The motor can give up at that mileage or a way later. My Vado SL has over 18,000 km on the odometer and shows no signs of wear.

The battery can give up in 3-4 years if heavily used. Well, my own yearly mileage is 8,000 - 11,000 km!
 
Here's how my rear Specialized Rhombus Pro tyre was cut on our ride in Bolimowski Landscape Park.

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My brother suspects a shard of glass as the cause. He tells me to protect the tyre from the inside by an automotive tyre patch and special cement. Will do it! This tyre is too expensive to go to waste!
 
Replacing a CR1220 coin battery in Vado 6.0 Display after over 2 years

A Vado 6.0 requires a coin battery in its display for the e-bike to operate at all. On a last group ride, my mate Marek started panicking because a weak battery was reported in one of his electronic Di2 brake/shifter levers. It is not possible to buy a CR1632 in a convenience store! (The fact the battery was weak didn't mean it was flat, though).

I thought to myself: When was the last time I replaced the 1220 in my Vado? Strava came to help me. It was on one of 94 km road racing group workouts, namely the 27th of July 2023, over 2 years ago. Uh-oh :)

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And let anyone say again Strava is worthless :)

I could find a spare CR1220 and replaced it. Now, I have no reason to worry as I also replaced the cassette several days ago, the chain is almost new, and I replaced the brake pads last night!
 
Last week I was due to go for a 30 mile ride so I decided to fully charge the battery on my Vado SL. Switched on the charger and after a pop noise it's completely dead. Checked everything with multimeter and new fuse. Nothing. The bike and charger is kept in a dry garage. The bike is standard not fiddled with. I contacted the LBS they confirmed the charger had expired. It's only 3 years old, I'm disappointed with the longevity of this device with a replacement costing me £95!
The LBS has raised a complaint on my behalf let's see what happens
 
I think specialised should back off from slim as possible and put some heat management in their chargers.
My Yamaha charger is larger, same charging current and is practically unheated after a full charge, the specialised is the limit of my heat endurance when held
 
I think specialised should back off from slim as possible and put some heat management in their chargers.
My Yamaha charger is larger, same charging current and is practically unheated after a full charge, the specialised is the limit of my heat endurance when held
I own two SL chargers. Both have worked for over 4 years now, no issue.
I own two full power Specialized chargers. Both have worked for almost 6 years now.

Electronics does break sometimes. I "love" reading comments like "Specialized should" backed with no experience.
 
TBH I hadn't thought about the overheating concept. My charger lived in this hanger even whilst charging. It seems that may have been the problem. Warning to others who may have one?
 

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I had to fix the front mudguard in my Vado 6.0. I need to start with it is one of a very few original parts on my e-bike! (Almost everything else -- I say everything including the frame -- was replaced!) I only removed the long mudflap several years ago as it was a constant nuisance.

For several past months something was squeaking near the mudguard; I was never inclined to check what that was :) The left side strut (that held the fender in place) separated from the fork on my last longer ride. Now, I had to take a closer look!

There was a bolt screwed into a socket of the fork. The bolt head socket was threaded, too; a small adjustment assembly was screwed onto the bolt. The strut end was going into a minute clamp, and was fastened with another bolt. Turned out, the adjustment part threaded end got sheared off because of fatigue. What to do? I could have bought a new mudguard of any make but decided to go another way. I realised that (except for the total rebuild of my Vado 2022/23) the mudguard has been never removed from the e-bike, simply no need to. So I prepared a droplet of epoxy glue, and just glued the strut into the socket :) Interestingly, the fender remained true despite removing the adjustment bit! :)

The glue seems to hold the metal extremely well!
 
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