SL 2 Step-Thru

[rochrunner]

As much as I like my 2022 Vado SL 5.0 non-EQ and have it set up exactly as I like, general aging and recent medical issues lead me to believe that the way I have to mount and dismount the bike is an accident waiting to happen, and at my age falls are no joke (I can only swing my leg over with my left foot on a pedal, i.e. when pushing off or slowing down). So I'm willing to switch to a step-thru bike -- which Specialized obviously makes -- but I'm really concerned about the added weight of the 2nd gen SLs. The main reason that I sold my 2020 Vado 4.0 and bought the SL was due to the weight of the regular Vado to where I couldn't comfortably lift it onto our bike carrier. The carrier (Thule EasyFold) did come with a short ramp of sorts but that was tricky in its own way and never felt very stable.

My current SL has never been a problem for me to handle on my own (so far). It's size L and when I weighed it as delivered by the dealer, it weight 37 or 38lbs. Of course, I added some weight with an aftermarket rack, RedShift seat post, bottle cages, etc. but it still probably didn't top 40-41lbs. The 2nd-gen equivalent does have some advantages in power and silence (range is not an issue) but it's listed in size M at 20kg, or 44lbs to start with. So basically adding at least 6lbs (~3kg) to the base weight in the larger size. What would really appeal to me would be the carbon version to get some weight back, but of course you can't really make a step-thru with a carbon frame due to the stresses from lack of a top bar. I'm also concerned that I might lose some strength over the next year or so, making lifting even more difficult.

Anyway, I'd like to hear from any members here who have had both editions of the Vado SL and can comment on how much you noticed the difference in weight. Maybe I'll also give the ramp another try since even the SL 2 is going to be lighter than the old Vado 4.0 that topped 50lb IIRC.

 

[e-levity]

Have you thought about just adding a dropper seatpost?

I installed a PNW 90mm dropper on my v1 SL, and it made mounting/dismounting and putting a foot down when stopped much easier.
Not to mention more fun downhill and cornering with the seat lower

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I installed a PNW 90mm dropper on my v1 SL, and it made mounting/dismounting and putting a foot down when stopped much easier.

How did you find extra space in the port at the top of the bottom tube to route yet another cable? It is totally taken up with the existing cables on my Vado SL!

 

[rochrunner]

Have you thought about just adding a dropper seatpost?

I installed a PNW 90mm dropper on my v1 SL, and it made mounting/dismounting and putting a foot down when stopped much easier.
Not to mention more fun downhill and cornering with the seat lower

I thought about that on my older bike as well my current but found that having the Redshift ShockStop post is of more benefit than a dropper. I actually tried one a few years ago that had suspension and was a dropper but it did a poor job of both functions.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I actually tried one a few years ago that had suspension and was a dropper but it did a poor job of both functions.

#metoo

I now own a handle operated XLC dropper. When I went on a long ride, I realised I lost everything that Redshift seat-post was giving me, so re-installed the ShockStop immediately.

Doug, perhaps this advice could help you:
You say you stomp on the pedal and swing your other leg to start riding. Perhaps you could learn a new bike mounting technique? Stand on the left side of the bike with your front facing the bike. Squeeze the brake lever to prevent the bike from moving, and to give you extra support. Now, lift your right leg and throw it swiftly over the top tube of the bike. At the same time, rotate your body to face forward. Now, you are standing over the bike, and can ride.

It is Technique 2 but I never lean the bike.

Regarding Vado SL 2 ST. First of all, very few members already own SL 2. Secondly, no one here reported a purchase of SL 2 ST. I tried the carbon SL 2 and liked it but the top tube seemed higher than in SL 1!

 

[rochrunner]

@Stefan Mikes Thanks for the video! I'm pretty sure #2 would only work for me if I lean the bike. I've tried that before but it's harder to do with a heavy e-bike vs the carbon road bike in the video that the rider can easily pick up or slide to maneuver underneath himself. When I do it, my legs are too far apart when my right leg goes over and it's difficult to keep myself and the bike upright. I also always end up with chain crud on the inside of my right lower leg . But I might give it another try after picking up a couple of tips from watching the video.

Thinking back on it, I've probably used the "one-foot push-off" technique since I was a kid. When I graduated to my Raleigh "English racer" type bike at maybe 9yo (with the hand brakes and 3-speed hub!), my dad was smart enough to get one that was a bit too big and then I of course grew into it and rode it until it was stolen when I was 15.

Regarding the carbon SL 2, I'm not surprised that the top bar is higher for the same reason that on a step-through it would be far too low and cause unwanted stresses in the frame tubes.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

Perhaps something here could help you stay on your SL 1 a while longer...

As much as I like my 2022 Vado SL 5.0 non-EQ and have it set up exactly as I like, general aging and recent medical issues lead me to believe that the way I have to mount and dismount the bike is an accident waiting to happen, and at my age falls are no joke

Between (a) the normal loss of flexibility and balance on foot at 76, and (b) an extra balance loss due to peripheral neuropathy from a 2005 spine surgery, mounting and dismounting are the riskiest parts of cycling for me as well. (Balance once in the saddle is fine.)

First ebike was a torque-sensing step-thru commuter with throttle partly for that reason.

Only after getting a 38 lb SL 1 with top tube did I realize that the top-heavy 70 lb weight of the 1st ebike worked against me more than its step-thru frame helped.

Stand on the left side of the bike with your front facing the bike. Squeeze the brake lever to prevent the bike from moving, and to give you extra support. Now, lift your right leg and throw it swiftly over the top tube of the bike. At the same time, rotate your body to face forward. Now, you are standing over the bike, and can ride.

This works quite well for me on the SL. The crutch added by locking the brakes is key.

Equally important to the swinging over part are (1) standing next to the saddle nose, (2) leaning the bike toward me by 10-15° max, and (3) foregoing a trunk bag for my foot to clear. The top tube becomes a non-issue.

The loss of onboard storage with (3) is inconvenient at times but still a good trade-off for the recreational riding I generally do on this bike.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

To be honest, mounting my Vado 6.0 ST is still easier than same with a Vado SL...

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

To be honest, mounting my Vado 6.0 ST is still easier than same with a Vado SL...

Why?

 

[rochrunner]

Between (a) the normal loss of flexibility and balance on foot at 76, and (b) an extra balance loss due to peripheral neuropathy from a 2005 spine surgery, mounting and dismounting are the riskiest parts of cycling for me as well. (Balance once in the saddle is fine.)

Similar to you, I also have issue (a) plus I could be dealing with (b) due to possible upcoming chemotherapy treatment. You're also right that even with my current pedal push-off technique it's my trunk bag that is what I could most easily get hung up on. It's small by trunk bag standards but it's still there! From your and Stefan's advice and the GCN video, I think I'll go out and practice in my garage and see if there's a way with my current bike that is all set up just the way I want it.

 

[mogulman]

I'm a long torso, short leg guy with a medium frame SL 5.0 (non-step through). I have nerve damage in my left leg from multiple back surgeries about 10 years ago. Add to that, an ankle that was broken severely in my right ankle 2 years ago and I do have some issues.

I tend to get on and off my bike by using method 2, straddling the top tube and then getting on without tipping the bike. The biggest problem for me is pausing and going at lights on my SL. I have clipless pedals. I can't really stand very well while in the saddle, so I have to unclip and then straddle the top bar while waiting for the light to turn and then get going and get back on. I've found that make sure I switch 1-2 gears down and putting the bike into Turbo helps me take off when the light changes. Sometimes I can balance by holding onto something rather than dismounting.

I have a Giant emtb. Similar thing on that bike, but putting the dropper all the way down helps immensely. Even with that, occasionally, on a very steep section, I have trouble getting back on and getting momentum, even if I lower the gearing and turn up the power.

I'd love to have a dropper on my on my Vado SL, but I feel like I'd miss some of the cushioning of my Kinekt seatpost. If there was a solution that did both, I'd be willing to try it.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

I'm a long torso, short leg guy with a medium frame SL 5.0 (non-step through). I have nerve damage in my left leg from multiple back surgeries about 10 years ago. Add to that, an ankle that was broken severely in my right ankle 2 years ago and I do have some issues.

I tend to get on and off my bike by using method 2, straddling the top tube and then getting on without tipping the bike. The biggest problem for me is pausing and going at lights on my SL. I have clipless pedals. I can't really stand very well while in the saddle, so I have to unclip and then straddle the top bar while waiting for the light to turn and then get going and get back on. I've found that make sure I switch 1-2 gears down and putting the bike into Turbo helps me take off when the light changes. Sometimes I can balance by holding onto something rather than dismounting.

I have a Giant emtb. Similar thing on that bike, but putting the dropper all the way down helps immensely. Even with that, occasionally, on a very steep section, I have trouble getting back on and getting momentum, even if I lower the gearing and turn up the power.

I'd love to have a dropper on my on my Vado SL, but I feel like I'd miss some of the cushioning of my Kinekt seatpost. If there was a solution that did both, I'd be willing to try it.

I got all the added compliance I need by switching to tubeless tires and running them at 35-40 psi. My SL 5.0 rims were tubeless-ready — just needed tape.

To offset any added rolling resistance, I chose hybrid Pathfinder Pros with center slicks for pavement. On descents, I often outroll roadies who look to have about the same gross weight, so the penalty can't be too bad.

Wouldn't giving up the clipless pedals also help with your stops?

 

[mogulman]

I got all the added compliance I need by switching to tubeless tires and running them at 35-40 psi. My SL 5.0 rims were tubeless-ready — just needed tape.

To offset any added rolling resistance, I chose hybrid Pathfinder Pros with center slicks for pavement. On descents, I often outroll roadies who look to have about the same gross weight, so the penalty can't be too bad.

Wouldn't giving up the clipless pedals also help with your stops?

I'm tubeless already. 44mm thundero tires. I run them at 40 psi.

I tried without clipless but most of the muscle/nerve damage I have is on the inside part of my left leg. I tend to man-spread. Without clipless, my leg tends to fall off the pedal.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Why?

Because Vado 6.0 is Step Through and Vado SL is High Step?