Hey all, just wanted to share some images if your curious what the Tero X’s look like without the fenders.
I live is Southern AZ, not a commuter, so I don’t need fenders, if I get caught in a Monsoon, oh well…I get wet.
As for lights, I prefer to use the little battery flicker type Bontragers anyway.
Thanks to those on the forum that provide information on getting the crank arm off, that helped a ton!
After getting it up onto the stand and seeing the grommet where the taillight and speed sensor go through, I thought this is a slam dunk.
When I opened the motor cover and started fishing through the wires, I saw they put a zip tie around the taillight wire to keep it from
feeding out the back of the grommet into the wheel while the suspension was moving…pretty clever, but a major pain to get in there
and cut it off without screwing up the wire. Next I saw a torx screw on the cover with the grommet installed and thought ok, should be simple…uh nope.
The plate actually has clips on the inside that won’t allow the bracket to be removed..at least I couldn’t get it to budge.
With the fender still installed, I pulled the wire out of the track inside of the fender to the mounting screw to the rack. That provided enough
service loop to get the wire outside of the motor cavity where I could cut the zip tie off without damaging the wire itself.
Then feed the connector through the grommet and there you have it…fender free!
The missing cavity is the taillight (red)
the left side is where the taillight routes in the track...the right side shows how much service loop is stuffed into the motor cavity
The bolt by the rack is how far I needed to pull out of the track to get enough service loop to cut the zip tie
Notice the connector is keyed...for when you put it back on..
The grommet that the speed sensor and taillight wires go through..underneath the swingarm
This is what the zip tie looked like attached to the wire...imagine that stuffed into the cavity.
I live is Southern AZ, not a commuter, so I don’t need fenders, if I get caught in a Monsoon, oh well…I get wet.
As for lights, I prefer to use the little battery flicker type Bontragers anyway.
Thanks to those on the forum that provide information on getting the crank arm off, that helped a ton!
After getting it up onto the stand and seeing the grommet where the taillight and speed sensor go through, I thought this is a slam dunk.
When I opened the motor cover and started fishing through the wires, I saw they put a zip tie around the taillight wire to keep it from
feeding out the back of the grommet into the wheel while the suspension was moving…pretty clever, but a major pain to get in there
and cut it off without screwing up the wire. Next I saw a torx screw on the cover with the grommet installed and thought ok, should be simple…uh nope.
The plate actually has clips on the inside that won’t allow the bracket to be removed..at least I couldn’t get it to budge.
With the fender still installed, I pulled the wire out of the track inside of the fender to the mounting screw to the rack. That provided enough
service loop to get the wire outside of the motor cavity where I could cut the zip tie off without damaging the wire itself.
Then feed the connector through the grommet and there you have it…fender free!
The missing cavity is the taillight (red)
the left side is where the taillight routes in the track...the right side shows how much service loop is stuffed into the motor cavity
The bolt by the rack is how far I needed to pull out of the track to get enough service loop to cut the zip tie
Notice the connector is keyed...for when you put it back on..
The grommet that the speed sensor and taillight wires go through..underneath the swingarm
This is what the zip tie looked like attached to the wire...imagine that stuffed into the cavity.
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