Building My First Ebike

RiskyRob

New Member
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USA
I'm converting an old 26" hardtail mtn bike of mine to a electric road bike. At this point, I have ordered a new oil suspension fork that has disc brake mounting brackets, and will change the front v-brakes to hydraulic disk brakes using a 180 mm rotor. I have also ordered a large 48V (99ah?) lithium battery and a triangle frame bag on Aliexpress.
I plan to order an AW 1500W rear hub motor kit in a few weeks. I want to learn what I can with this bicycle, with the goal of eventually converting a 1965 Suzuki S32 motorcycle to electric.
 
Same store as in the above links. Sigh. It's a con job, RiskyRob.

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... 48V (99ah?) lithium battery
Unfortunately, this is the kind of risk you run buying no-name Chinese batteries before getting your personal research up to speed so you can spot such an obvious fake.

Clearly they are BS'ing the battery capacity and taking advantage of folks who don't know any better. Similarly, 13S3P is balderdash. 13S is correct for a 48v pack (13 cells connected in serial fashion) but 3P means three banks of 13 cells parallel'd together. Thats going to make a very small battery. Only a few amp-hours. Thats probably what you are getting. And thats assuming the cells themselves are any good. Its common to see cells that output a fraction of their legitimate counterparts, and a search on Youtube will find 18650 casings with mere button cells inside... with sand making up the weight difference.

You won't get 25ah. A 13S3P is going to be in the ballpark of 7.5ah, but thats only on paper with quality cells. For $85 I bet you'll get next to nothing.

Don't take this as me making fun of you. But you have indeed been conned and Ali's buyer protection is not going to extend to a he said/she said on quality. Learn from it and move on. There's a whole separate subject of your personal safety using a kaka battery like this that we haven't even addressed yet.
 
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Also, if you read the ad and look at the illustration that shows the dimensions of the battery, its 65mm x 68mm x 235mm. Thats roughly 2.55" x 2.6" x 9.25". Pretty tiny. Yeah thats a 13S3P pack alright.

So, when you evaluate an AliExpress seller you do have to accept lower ratings. A 98% EBay seller is one you would want to pass by. But 98% on Ali Express is about the norm. Especially if they have been a seller for awhile as its normal for the shady vendors to shut down an account and start up another one when their feedback gets too terrible.

These guys haven't learned that trick. They have had the account open since April 2020 and their feedback rating is an absolutely abysmal 88%.

Sorry man... this is a classic Chinese ecommerce disaster in the making across the board.

You want to know what real batteries cost? Packs made in the USA that also happen to be near the lowest price point on the market? Where the seller has a very good reputation in the community? Who gives you for-reals capacities?


FYI a 31ah 30Q pack I had made ran me $1500 from a different vendor in Colorado. More expensive than usual because of the 90a continuous BMS. My 32ah 21700 pack - also with a XXL BMS - custom made from the vendor linked above was just over $1000. I told you your pack is likely about 7.5ah, right? Well a 52v 8ah pack sold by this vendor is going to run you $375. So a battery the size of what you are actually getting - that works properly - can be expected to be selling in this price range.
 
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Unfortunately, this is the kind of risk you run buying no-name Chinese batteries before getting your personal research up to speed so you can spot such an obvious fake.

Clearly they are BS'ing the battery capacity and taking advantage of folks who don't know any better. Similarly, 13S3P is balderdash. 13S is correct for a 48v pack (13 cells connected in serial fashion) but 3P means three banks of 13 cells parallel'd together. Thats going to make a very small battery. Only a few amp-hours. Thats probably what you are getting. And thats assuming the cells themselves are any good. Its common to see cells that output a fraction of their legitimate counterparts, and a search on Youtube will find 18650 casings with mere button cells inside... with sand making up the weight difference.

You won't get 25ah. A 13S3P is going to be in the ballpark of 7.5ah, but thats only on paper with quality cells. For $85 I bet you'll get next to nothing.

Don't take this as me making fun of you. But you have indeed been conned and Ali's buyer protection is not going to extend to a he said/she said on quality. Learn from it and move on. There's a whole separate subject of your personal safety using a kaka battery like this that we haven't even addressed yet.
No worries, I was able to cancel the order. From what I see, the dimensions did indicate roughly a 10 AH battery, not 99 AH.
 
No worries, I was able to cancel the order. From what I see, the dimensions did indicate roughly a 10 AH battery, not 99 AH.
Good to hear. Dont skimp on the battery. At best, it wont perform. At worst, it will catch on fire and burn your house down. em3ev is your best bet
 
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I absolutely concur that the LAST thing you want to buy on the cheap is the battery. Forget about price and go on reputation first, and specs second. If you can't afford it you can't afford the bike.

I would say EM3V is your best bet for a Chinese seller. They have customer service and reputation on a par with a normal, established Western business, which is almost unheard-of as Chinese sellers are concerned. Their Shark packs are not the generic Hailong (Hailong is the company that actually manufactures the casing and sells it to so many vendors, which is why batteries from so many manufacturers look the same. They buy the outer box from one source) and try to address that case's inherent weaknesses. But they're still glorified Hailong packs, and their BMS' are unfortunately low-power.

@RiskyRob 's AW1500w motor - assuming its the one I found on Amazon - has a controller limit of 35a. Thats probably peak amps only, but only one of the cell configs for the EM3EV Super Shark (you have to scroll down to the specs) will live up to that controller. I need my BMS' continuous value to exceed by at least a little my controller's peak. Doing that prevents a peak burst of controller output whose length exceeds what the BMS thinks a peak is. If that happens the battery pops its cork and you walk home to plug into a charger to reset it. I learned this the hard way with a pack that only had a 5a fudge factor (continuous rating was 5a more than peak, but I nailed throttle going up a hill and made it 3/4 of the way before *pop* and I was on muscle power).

The devil is in the details when you build it yourself, and little mistakes on stuff found at the bottom of a spec sheet can be ballbreakers.
 
You don't even have a vendor name.
The pile of trash I got from btrbattery of amazon had great specifications, full dimensions current limit AH, type & brand of cell 13s 7 p blah blah. Other than not working over 7 amps could have been great. I got my money back from that one.
The pile of trash I bought from ebay sun-ebike warehouse baldwin city CA would bounce back from failure at 11 amps so it took me 80 days to prove that one bad (instead of the motor) and I didn't get my money back.
Lunabike sold me a great battery; still using it 4 years later. 17.5 ah 48 v. He has quit selling 48 v batteries.
Read & heed post #12. No sense buying from a US vendor, you're in the UK. May as well go direct to em3ev or jennymao. Those are in the 2nd post. Some people have gotten okay batteries from littakal in the first post, but last post said Littakal freight increased from 0 to $160. If I was buying from ***** I would use a throwaway credit card, not spread my bank information all over a server in a foreign country known for counterfeiting & fraudsters. Like the edanone on post 7. Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha! Note no case for that price. I built a case out of plastic foam aluminum angle & machine screws, took about 16 hours.
I just bought 2 used 20 ah 40 v Lifepo4 batteries labled with BAE systems PN. 8" wide, 40" long, 2.5" tall each, weighs 21 lb ea. LiIon is smaller and lighter, lower # of charge cycles. 800 your ad quotes is conservative.
 
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Would a 48V 21AH battery, consisting of quantity 78 18650 lithium cells work well with that AW 35 amp controller? I could get that for $200.
No. The BMS is what matters. Cell count etc. has nothing to do with anything. Your not knowing that is a bad sign considering what it is you are thinking about. The headline says right off the bat its a 10.5ah pack. So I see where you are going with this: Buy two of them and parallel them together and that gives you your 78 cells and 21ah.

Most people will freak if you tell them you are going to try and parallel two packs together. But I have been doing it for years, personally. I know the benefits... and the dangers. And typically I tell people that paralleling packs is OK provided you know *exactly* what you are doing, and the risks and weaknesses that go with it... and paralleling packs is NOT for beginners. You plan to assemble these packs together and then charge them from a single lead I bet, right? You realize then that your charge to the second pack in line is going to be going thru the pack's output circuit, which means no BMS protection for stuff like overcharging a pack whose cells have a different capacity since they are not matched together from birth?

When you parallel two packs together and leave them together as one, you have to buy both packs brand-new, with identical cells, configurations, BMS' and identical charge cycle counts (which means buy them new). Otherwise one or the other pack will be at a different stage in its life cycle and will not have an absolutely identical capacity, which it must have.

I haven't even touched on what you need to do to safely make the connection. Or what you have to do if you decide to charge separately, which is a pain in the ass and not worth the effort.

Paralleling two packs means the BMS limitations are multiplied by the number of packs in parallel, so a 30a peak BMS is now 60a. Thats a good thing, but its ONLY on paper. Try that in real life and reality bites back as the heat generated and the stress on the cells will still be the same on the individual packs. You are running them HARD doing this. I started doing bigass (30ah+) batteries specifically because of this issue with parallel'd packs on my 2wd bikes that ate power in serious quantities.

You are talking about increasing your level of risk significantly and you are going to do it with packs that have zero reason to inspire confidence.

  • The vendor has a 100% rating but a whopping two transactions under their belt.
  • The pack is listed as "refurbished" Can of worms right there.
  • 3500mah Panasonic cells means they are GA's (thats the cell model/type). GA's are high capacity but not high output. And they get real hot when pushed, and do not handle that heat well (like 30Q's would). GA's are a good cell for low output jobs with few cells in a pack, so their 3500mah capacity maximizes that pack's capacity. So you see GA's mostly in small, low power packs.
  • The details on the BMS are as follows: "installed". Not exactly above-board disclosure. Typical Panasonic GA BMS limits are 30a-35a at most but since this is a 48v refurb of an obviously low power pack I wouldn't count on anything, and this is the thing you have to count on.
 
Thanks for your detailed response. You're right, I have 0 experience with lithium cells.
Everyone has to start somewhere. In 2015 I had decades of cycling experience but all I knew how to do with an ebike was spell it correctly.
 
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