Xlc Evo rear hub assembly (Haibike)

[Johnny]

Well my rear wheel hub was loose on the drive side, decided to tightened it, one thing led to another, I disassembled the drive side and forgot the order of the components. I couldn't find any information on the net about the assembly of this one. I can't even find the manufacturers website.

At this point I should clean, regrease and put it together so any help about the order of these parts are very much appreciated. I have a guess but I don't want to reassemble on that.

Also I am planning to use standard parktool polylube 1000 , is it ok or should I get the highspeed grease ? (In the bearings photo you can see the grease, it is silver I don't know if it should be cleaned and relubed)

Help is appreciated.

 

[J.R.]

My BH free hub is unusually complicated. I have to service it every year. I hope you got this figured out.

It's really difficult to tell from the photo. If it were clean it would be easier to judge. The Park Tool grease is just fine for this, I've been using it for years. It very likely is better grease than what was used at the factory. Mineral spirits is safe to clean, do not use auto brake cleaner.

You have loose bearings, same as my bike. In the photo with the 4 parts, starting left to right (I believe) the 1st is the torque washer that goes on last and bites into the aluminum bike frame. The 2nd looks like stamped steel? Is it? The 3rd looks like a machined bearing race and the 4th looks like a thin spacer washer. Getting back to the 2nd part. If it is just stamped steel, it could be what's commonly referred to as a bearing cup. In which case it would get installed after the race.

I know I'm not helping much. I wanted to try because I've done this work on my overly complicated bike (with 53 loose ball bearings!) several times. I took many photos during disassembly. Often when I have to disassemble something on a bike or motorcycle, I lay a piece of cardboard down and with a marker draw a circle around the parts with a number and description where it came from. The first time I did my hub I left one spacer in the cleaner, when I tried to reassemble it just wasn't going together correctly. I stood there scratching my head for ten minutes. An early senior moment.

I hope you got this sorted!

 

[Johnny]

Thank you very much for the reply, I already reassembled it yesterday.

My only problem was the orientation of the rubber seal(the rightmost one) and I took a guess. I used parktool standard lube as you also suggested, Even in their videos they don't call the hg a "better" grease , they just state that it is a lower viscosity "faster" grease which may even be worse in terms of durability.

Loose bearings were easy to clean, dumped in degreaser (parktool cb4 but I think any bike specific citrus based degreaser will do) then rinsed and dried with a towel. Wiped the housings clean with IPA and microfiber cloths.

I tried to not over tighten the cone, just enough to touch the bearings then backed off a little. There is no play in the wheel, and it turns smooth so hopefully it is done.

Even with cone wrenches it was a little hard to loosen the non-drive side cone. Otherwise it seems like an easy service but they really should supply some service manuals online.

 

[John Daley]

Just noticed the loose hub today with my Trekking Rs (6300 miles); one of the races is chewed up, so I will need to replace that as well as the bearings. Good times! Anyone know the size of the bb’s?

Might just look for new wheels. I had to replace the rim last winter, and this may be more work than these wheels are worth. A little disappointed with Haibike for using cheap wheels on an expensive bike.

 

[batmick1]

Just noticed the loose hub today with my Trekking Rs (6300 miles); one of the races is chewed up, so I will need to replace that as well as the bearings. Good times! Anyone know the size of the bb’s?

Might just look for new wheels. I had to replace the rim last winter, and this may be more work than these wheels are worth. A little disappointed with Haibike for using cheap wheels on an expensive bike.

It is not just Haibike. Most makers will put the high end stuff where it is easily seen, like derailleurs and cranks and then save money on the not so flashy parts, though those are often the ones where you would like better quality. So you'll see many bikes that sport Deore XT or even XTR or Ultegra or Dura Ace but wheels from the bargain basement.
On my Haibike it was no different, except the rims are pretty good but the hubs were junk (XLC). I replaced the rear hub with an XTR I found on sale and the front with a Hope hub, also on closeout.

 

[Johnny]

Just noticed the loose hub today with my Trekking Rs (6300 miles); one of the races is chewed up, so I will need to replace that as well as the bearings. Good times! Anyone know the size of the bb’s?

Might just look for new wheels. I had to replace the rim last winter, and this may be more work than these wheels are worth. A little disappointed with Haibike for using cheap wheels on an expensive bike.

The bearings seems to be the same size as the ones in other hubs you should be able to get some easily on Amazon or a lbs.

Since I have relubed and assambled the hub I had not problems running smoothly.

 

[Mad_Davey]

After much messing around with Freehub Bodies on my XLC EVO hub from Haibike I hope I can share info that may help some folks.

I've now learned the "EVO XLC" fat bike hub on my Haibike Full Fat 6 is made by Formula, this will not fit a DT Swiss Freehub or others, you need Formula parts. Furthermore Formula parts can vary a little but I was able to use newer Freewheel bodies on my older hub, I did however change the nut to fit the newer style Formula HG freehub that now has a snap ring. I successfully upgraded my drivetrain to the HG 1x11 Linkglide.

In doing so I learned the following:

1. My original HG Formula Freewheel body that came on my Haibike with its old 2x10 drivetrain was adequate to fit the 11 speed Linkglide, the 11 tooth cog is halfway on before tightening the nut and a local bike tech said it is fine once tightened and he thinks that the 11 speed Linkglide approves the 9-10 as well as 11 speed HG freewheel bodies, and said some bodies will need spacers.

2. Many Canondale free hub bodies are made by Formula and work but may require a different reverse nut due to their newer snap ring design. There might be some work arounds such as removing the snap ring and using a different spacer between the bearings to get the correct frame clearance, or modifying your existing nut although I noticed the new nut style is slightly longer and the old one might not provide proper spacing to the frame.

3. I put lots of indentations in my freewheel body from the torque of the Yamaha so I wanted to go steel. No real upgrade options are available for steel or so I thought, and then I found a steel HG freehub body made for Specialized, for their road bikes. Specialized part number S19210000. It looks like Road bike HG free hub bodies are slightly longer so you will need a spacer to run them with any mountain cassette. I have not put this on yet but I have it and it looks like it will work well, also it comes with the correct nut that you can use with newer Formula freewheel bodies. I was unable to buy this nut otherwise so I literally got this set just for the nut, but may use the body since it's steel.

I am posting this since there is very little info I could find on the EVO XLC hub that came with my Haibike. I wish someone had posted the info I posted, so here it is.

Sorry to be so long winded, the short version is:

EVO XLC hubs are made by Formula.