Which Do You Prefer Cadence or Torque Sensor?

[rchenail]

Did you research this bike at all? I have and am still considering it. Those are not cadence choices, those are assist levels. The power output to the motor varies from one level to the next. The number of available assist levels while riding can be changed in the LCD settings, so you don't have to use all 9. For example, you could choose the 1-5 option. And they are not based on effort, only that you are pedaling. And they are not directly related to a speed metric, just power. And another nice feature of the 700 is that each assist level can have its power percentage changed in the advanced settings. The 20 mph limit is the limit of "throttle only", not assist levels.

As a side note, most new 700 customers are reporting that the throttle doesn't work when pedaling with PAS.

https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/my-ride1up-700s-are-being-shipped.35874/post-312626

Edit: Ride1up is providing a fix using a USB cable and a software update.

I read that also re: throttle and PAS pedalling and was wondering if mine was acting the same way since I only use the throttle when taking off. I tried it and mine does gives a boost while pedalling. Glad for that but like I said, won't use it that much anyway.

 

[Sifu Ben]

My ebike experience is limited to a Bulls speed pedelec hybrid mid-drive, Trek hybrid and Electra beach cruiser mid drive (all torque sensing) and Rad Rover, Fuji eNevada, Cannondale Treadwell Neo (cadence sensing). Not all are created equal. The Bulls is as close to ideal as possible if you don't need a throttle. The Cannondale and the Fuji are very similar in feel, power and weight and have no throttle. Cadence sensors for a 250watt hub motor in a 40+ pound bike is a very nice recipe. They roll fast, are nimble and the power application is uncannily close to a torque sensor. Having a low power motor doesn't give a distinct on/off feeling like a 750watt Bafang Rad Rover, so it's relatively smooth. The Trek had an on/off feel, the Electra seemed overly laid back or sluggish (tuning for a beach cruiser), and the Rad Rover can catch you unaware at PAS 2 and above as it can be a tad jerky (too harsh of a word though) and provide power not quite in line with the your power input and intent . No absolute rules it seems.

 

[Sifu Ben]

On the Fuji eNevada, there seems to be a greatly diminished sense of hitting the wall once I get it up past 20mph. You hardly perceive that it's all you when you get up to 23-24mph. The Rad Rover lets you know that it's cutting off power as soon as you hit 20 mph. So both are cadence sensing bikes with different characteristics.

 

[GenXrider]

and the Rad Rover can catch you unaware at PAS 2 and above as it can be a tad jerky (too harsh of a word though) and provide power not quite in line with the your power input and intent .

Not in line with your power input - would be normal with a cadence sensor based PAS as they only detect that you're pedaling, not how much force you are using to pedal, where as a torque sensor based PAS would sense and correlate power output. I like bikes that actually let you adjust relevant power settings for PAS power (at each level) and current limits.

 

[Sifu Ben]

I know that. Just saying that with a more powerful motor on a cadence sensor, I get a more pronounced on/off response even from PAS 1 than on a low powered one. The low powered cadence bike then tends to mimic the feel of a torque sensor bike in that the power doesn’t feed in abruptly.

 

[GenXrider]

I know that. Just saying that with a more powerful motor on a cadence sensor, I get a more pronounced on/off response even from PAS 1 than on a low powered one. The low powered cadence bike then tends to mimic the feel of a torque sensor bike in that the power doesn’t feed in abruptly.

Some control that abruptness much better through the controller, despite having more maximum power. So, it really depends on how the bike handles delivering that power.

What determines low-speed ramp-up smoothness?

hi, court: i'm teaching my dog how to walk next to me and my magnum low rider, using throttle only, is super herky jerky going up to 5 or 6 mph, prime walking speed, whereas my girl's ride1up 700 is super smooth. i called my magnum dealer who told me something like my bike's gearing and motor...

electricbikereview.com

 

[Coolbob]

I have a very limited frame of reference having only ridden one hub drive bike with a cadence sensor (which I did not care for at all) and three mid drives. I rode a Trek, Specalized and Giant around the parking lot at a couple of bike stores. I believe that all three have torque sensors.

I really preferred the Giant one the other two. What appealed to me was the minimalist controls and how the bike's assistance felt more natural to me. I ended up buying a Momentum Transend which is made by Giant. I've put about 250 miles on it in just under two months and I'm very pleased with my purchase. One of my favorite things about the Momentum is how it rewards you for maintaining a good cadence, choose too high a gear and let the cadence drop too much below 60rpm and the assist seems to back off. Bring the cadence back up closer to 60rpm and you can feel the bike perk up. I think it would be very difficult for me to enjoy a hub drive, cadence sensor or throttle now that I've got some saddle time with a mid-drive/torque sensor bike.

 

[GenXrider]

I think it would be very difficult for me to enjoy a hub drive, cadence sensor or throttle now that I've got some saddle time with a mid-drive/torque sensor bike.

There are also hub drive bikes with torque sensors, which riders seem to be very happy with.