When someone figures out how to change the assist level on a Creo from the shifter, please post solution here!
- Thread starter kattanm
- Start date
kattanm
Active Member
Also, Dave, I’ve read your post about this in the other topic and couple questions:
1. Where did you order the controller for $66? Have a link?
2. What about drilling out the hole in the bike so it would pass the wire?? That sounds intimidating.
Wish you’d make a YouTube video of the install for those of us less mechanically oriented!
1. Where did you order the controller for $66? Have a link?
2. What about drilling out the hole in the bike so it would pass the wire?? That sounds intimidating.
Wish you’d make a YouTube video of the install for those of us less mechanically oriented!
Part ordered from Amain Cycle, Specialized part number: S194200007.
www.amaincycling.com
The hole you drill is the black, metal plug on the right side of the head tube. You'll see the rear brake and shifter cables go through the plug on the left side of the head tube. You just have to drill a hole in the right plug large enough to pass the cable connector through. This hole will be much larger than the cable itself. I then cut a short piece of black rubber tubing, cut a slit along it to allow it to be put over the cable, and slid it down the cable and into the hole. This hid the large hole from being obvious. I did have to unwrap and re-wrap the bar tape on the left side so I could hide the cable under the wrap.
The remote unit is mounted on a short piece of 7/8" plastic pipe. I filed one end of the pipe to match the curve of the handle bar and cut a small slit on each side so I could run a zip tie around the bar and through the pipe. I pulled back the left brake hood cover and installed the pipe as close to the bottom of the brake assembly using a zip tie. The zip tie connection (head) is hidden inside the pipe. Putting the hood cover back in place hides almost all the black zip tie. My pictures don't show it but I used a black handle bar plug to close the end of the pipe. It turned out very stealth.
I haven't even thought of using the boost button on the top tube (TCU) since I installed the remote. In fact, I told Mission Control to put the TCU into Stealth Mode where none of the LED lights are illuminated after the bike is turned on. I monitor the boost level and battery status on the display (TCD).
Dave
Specialized Levo FSR Top Tube Display Remote
This is a remote for the 2019 Specialized Levo's top tube display. S194200007
The hole you drill is the black, metal plug on the right side of the head tube. You'll see the rear brake and shifter cables go through the plug on the left side of the head tube. You just have to drill a hole in the right plug large enough to pass the cable connector through. This hole will be much larger than the cable itself. I then cut a short piece of black rubber tubing, cut a slit along it to allow it to be put over the cable, and slid it down the cable and into the hole. This hid the large hole from being obvious. I did have to unwrap and re-wrap the bar tape on the left side so I could hide the cable under the wrap.
The remote unit is mounted on a short piece of 7/8" plastic pipe. I filed one end of the pipe to match the curve of the handle bar and cut a small slit on each side so I could run a zip tie around the bar and through the pipe. I pulled back the left brake hood cover and installed the pipe as close to the bottom of the brake assembly using a zip tie. The zip tie connection (head) is hidden inside the pipe. Putting the hood cover back in place hides almost all the black zip tie. My pictures don't show it but I used a black handle bar plug to close the end of the pipe. It turned out very stealth.
I haven't even thought of using the boost button on the top tube (TCU) since I installed the remote. In fact, I told Mission Control to put the TCU into Stealth Mode where none of the LED lights are illuminated after the bike is turned on. I monitor the boost level and battery status on the display (TCD).
Dave
kattanm
Active Member
This is fantastic! About how long is your plastic pipe, 10mm? And if the zip tie is running around the bar and across the opening of the pipe (with slits in the side), how did you get the handlebar plug into the pipe? Seems like the plug would hit the cable tie plus be too long to fit into the pipe? (sorry i can barely change my own flats here...)Part ordered from Amain Cycle, Specialized part number: S194200007.
Specialized Levo FSR Top Tube Display Remote
This is a remote for the 2019 Specialized Levo's top tube display. S194200007
The hole you drill is the black, metal plug on the right side of the head tube. You'll see the rear brake and shifter cables go through the plug on the left side of the head tube. You just have to drill a hole in the right plug large enough to pass the cable connector through. This hole will be much larger than the cable itself. I then cut a short piece of black rubber tubing, cut a slit along it to allow it to be put over the cable, and slid it down the cable and into the hole. This hid the large hole from being obvious. I did have to unwrap and re-wrap the bar tape on the left side so I could hide the cable under the wrap.
The remote unit is mounted on a short piece of 7/8" plastic pipe. I filed one end of the pipe to match the curve of the handle bar and cut a small slit on each side so I could run a zip tie around the bar and through the pipe. I pulled back the left brake hood cover and installed the pipe as close to the bottom of the brake assembly using a zip tie. The zip tie connection (head) is hidden inside the pipe. Putting the hood cover back in place hides almost all the black zip tie. My pictures don't show it but I used a black handle bar plug to close the end of the pipe. It turned out very stealth.
I haven't even thought of using the boost button on the top tube (TCU) since I installed the remote. In fact, I told Mission Control to put the TCU into Stealth Mode where none of the LED lights are illuminated after the bike is turned on. I monitor the boost level and battery status on the display (TCD).
Dave
kattanm
Active Member
Wow thanks again. This is really slick and super helpful. I shall now push my luck with some basics...
1. Where did you get the little pipe?
2. What tool did you use to file it to get it to make the shape of the bar?
3. Did you use a special drill bit to make the zip tie holes?
1. Where did you get the little pipe?
2. What tool did you use to file it to get it to make the shape of the bar?
3. Did you use a special drill bit to make the zip tie holes?
It was just a piece I had laying around. I used my Dremel tool to carve the curve. The pipe was soft enough that I drilled a series of holes then used the drill bit to connect them. Where are you located? I assume since you used the metric measurement that you’re not in the US.
kattanm
Active Member
I joined the family on this thing and it is indeed terrific to have assist adjustment on the fly like this. It also gives you a 0 support (without turning off and losing power meter) option which I don't think you have with the top tube button.
This looks terrible for now. But at least I have it in the right spot where my extended thumb can just toggle up and down easily.
This looks terrible for now. But at least I have it in the right spot where my extended thumb can just toggle up and down easily.
