When I’m wrong I’m really wrong. eBikeling

[tomjasz]

Just opened an eBikeling kit from Amazon. Very nice setup with plug and play higo connectors. I’m happy to see someone’s kits as well appointed. More to come.

 

[harryS]

Geared or direct drive motor? On his older kits, the speedometer won't work on a geared motor when coasting. Also poor pedal assist characteristics. Not current controlled like a KT controller. For a 1000W direct drive, where no one cares about PAS, mine would be fine.

 

[AHicks]

Geared or direct drive motor? On his older kits, the speedometer won't work on a geared motor when coasting. Also poor pedal assist characteristics. Not current controlled like a KT controller. For a 1000W direct drive, where no one cares about PAS, mine would be fine.

Not even with an external speed sensor? Is the eBikeling controller programmable/otherwise similar to the KT controllers? Sine wave or square?

 

[indianajo]

I'm back to the 2018 ebikeling controller since the ASI burnt the pins off 7/14. the new one I bought has weird connectors & chinese labels. I mounted the display, required to connect the on-off button, facing the battery in front. Tie wrapped to steering column. I don't look at it. The PAS pickup, required to prevent error 7, is wrapped up in a coil under the seat. The controller makes the jump (uber) takeoff motor work, sort of. 2 ohms dropper resistors in phase wires too much. Won't pull me up a hill with battery reading 54.1. Trying 1 ohm tomorrow.

 

[tomjasz]

DDM.
I can't make a judgement until we get it set up. But, it's nice to see Higo connectors and not JST.

 

[tomjasz]

Given the price point I have zero concerns.

 

[harryS]

Not even with an external speed sensor? Is the eBikeling controller programmable/otherwise similar to the KT controllers? Sine wave or square?

Mine was a SW900 display. No input connector on the controller for a speed sensor. I blew out a speed sensor applyiing it to all the un-soldered input points on the controller. I had tested all of them for voltage exceeding 5 volts, but I still managed to touch it to battery power. ALso, it's not current controlled pedal assist, so the lower levels all went to 20 mph, unlike a KT.

 

[AHicks]

So it sounds like the eBikeling controller is a whole different animal. After being totally spoiled by the current control the KT controllers offer, where your speed has no effect on the amount of assist in play at any point in time, that would eliminate any interest I might have in an eBikeling setup. On top of that, the KT controller has so many parameters to tailor for your own purposes, they're just in a different league. Couple that with what they cost, and I believe they're tough to beat.

On the bike where I had to add an external speed sensor, (1000w MAC project) I "shared" the positive and negative wires for the PAS sensor, and grabbed the white/sensor wire from the motor harness leading into the controller. There, I disconnected the white wire leading to the motor (useless part time signal only), and connected the external sensor signal wire to the white wire from there leading to the display. Been working perfectly for several years now. -Al

 

[tomjasz]

The Chinglish manual is confusing me.
Has 5 grades mode: 1 grade 2V, 2 grade 2.5V, 3 grade 3V, 4 grade 3.5V, 5 grade 4V

Options 0 and 1 indicate how much electric assist each grade will provide from the battery while pedaling and will affect the pedaling speed accordingly. For example, in option 0 the grade 2 will assist you with 3v while it is 2.5v in option 1.

 

[AHicks]

Not sure of your question Thomas.

Those voltages sound like they are within the range of the throttle signal (throttle to controller signal wire) which generally run 1.1v (or so) to a hair over 4v.

So their PAS software is assigning increasingly higher voltages to the throttle signal wire as the PAS level increases. I guess that would be one way to do it. Those values sound high to me. Given my 'druthers, I'd want them a little lower if that were possible?

 

[tomjasz]

It's a DOH! moment here. I'm just not comprehending the settings. I find this more confusing than my CA's. He's having the motor cut out and no speedo reading. Sensor for PAS is functioning flashing led. Off to find another quote to post later.
Thanks! My stroke brain is stuggling with this, the simplest setup and kit I've ever dealt with.



"grade" , meaning level?

 

[tomjasz]

Turn on the kit by pressing and holding the M button for 4-5 seconds.
Press and hold the Up and Down arrows for 4-5 seconds to enter the settings panel of your SW900 / S830 LCD Displays.
The following are the programs/parameters and what they stand for:
P01 Background luminance. 1 is the darkest, 3 is the brightest
Depends on your choice.
P02 Unit of distance. 0 is KM, 1 is MILE
Switches between Kilometers and Miles.
P03 Voltage grades. 24V, 36V, 48V, 52v.
The battery and the kit voltages must be the same!
P04 Sleep time. 0 means the LCD screen will never go off for energy save mode, other numbers stand for the sleep time (1-60 min).
Depends on your choice.
P05 PAS grades.
0, Has 3 grades mode: 1 grade 2V, 2 grade 3V, 3 grade 4V
1, Has 5 grades mode: 1 grade 2V, 2 grade 2.5V, 3 grade 3V, 4 grade 3.5V, 5 grade 4V
Options 0 and 1 indicate how much electric assist each grade will provide from the battery while pedaling and will affect the pedaling speed accordingly. For example, in option 0 the grade 2 will assist you with 3v while it is 2.5v in option 1.
PS: S830 Displays have a 9-grade option.
P06 Wheel size. Unit: inch. Precision: 0.1
Wheel size unit shown in inches. Must be set correctly.
P07 Speed measuring magnet. Range: 1-100
This is 47 for direct drive (1200w and above) motors and 01 for geared (500w - 750W) motors.
P08 Speed limit. Range: 0-50 km/h, 100 means no limit
The limit set in Km and can not be switched to a Mil. So calculate it carefully when you set the limit.
No-Communication Status (controlled by the meter): when the real speed is over the ones we set, the meter would shut off PWM output; when less than the speed we set, the meter would turn on PWM output automatically, the driving speed would be ±1km/h; (Speed limit is for PAS, not for Throttle)
Communication Status (controlled by the controller): The driving speed keeps the same with the ones we set. Random error: ±1km/h. (Speed limit is for both PAS and Throttle)
Notes: These data are based on KM. When changing KM to Mile, the speed value on the screen would convert to correct Miles automatically, but if you do not change the setting of the speed limit from KM to Mile, it would be different from the real speed limit in Mile.
P09 Zero start & Non-zero Start. 0 is Zero Start, 1 is Non-zero Start
Zero start (0) will engage the motor instantly while Non-zero start (1) will give some delay when you throttle.
P10 Driving mode.
0 is driven by PAS. The throttle is useless at this time. Use this option if you do not want to use the throttle.
1 is driven by Throttle. PAS is useless at this time. If you do not need PAS, then use this option.
2 is driven by PAS & Throttle. The throttle is useless at Zero Start status. Both throttle and PAS are active.
P11 PAS sensitivity. Range: 1-24
Set the sensitivity carefully, 1 is the most sensitive.
P12 PAS start strength. Range: 0-5
Lower value provides a little assist when you start pedaling.
P13 PAS magnet type. There are 3 types: 5, 8, and 12. Dots on the magnetic ring. It’s 8 as default (Set it as 12 in case you have 12 magnet rotor).
P14 The Current-limiting of Controller. The original Current is 12A. Range:1-20A
Please check the current your controller and the hub motor can handle. Set the limit accordingly.
PS: The latest versions of SW900 and S830 displays adjust the current automatically.
P15 Not implemented now.
P16 ODO Zero-Out: Long press the upper key for 5 seconds and ODO will zero out.
Use this option to reset ODO.
P17 Power choice function from 250W-1000W.
This option will let you set the wattage of your electric hub motor. Some versions of SW900 do not have P16 and P17.

 

[AHicks]

Yup, looks like "grade" = PAS level....

Regarding the P13 setting, yes, they are clearly asking you about the number of magnets on the PAS sensor ring, but you can take that a step further if you like. Think of it as a PAS sensor sensitivity adjustment. How far the crank needs to move to turn the motor on or off. For instance, if the PAS sensor has 13 magnets on it, and you set it for 5, you are going to have a pretty sensitive sensor. Opposite true as well. If you have a 5 magnet ring, and you set it for 13, that crank may have to turn a couple of turns prior to the motor getting power....
They're letting you play with this in P11 as well.

P14 sounds interesting. I'm left with the question wondering if it limits the power across the entire operating range, or just the top end?
In other words, if I reduce or increase whatever amperage it's set at, will that change the voltage levels seen in P05 in a corresponding manner? Be nice if it did. That would allow you to really refine that PAS system to the exact voltage required for you favorite speeds.

 

[tomjasz]

Geared or direct drive motor? On his older kits, the speedometer won't work on a geared motor when coasting. Also poor pedal assist characteristics. Not current controlled like a KT controller. For a 1000W direct drive, where no one cares about PAS, mine would be fine.

Direct drive 1200W.

 

[indianajo]

Hope those parameters work on ebikeling controller sold 12/17. I had to take the PAS sensor off and tie-wrap it to the frame because PAS accelerated too fast in level 1 and went too fast for rutted Hwy 3 too. PAS was dangerous. Would be nice to not have to hold the throttle on for 3 hours when riding home against a 25 mph headwind. Fall wind usually blows from the south when I'm riding south at 1400, then about 1500 turns and blows from the west since I've turned that way.
I figured out how to change the parameters 2018, just hold up & down arrow at same time to turn it on. But I was afraid to mess with them.

 

[tomjasz]

Getting into the settings takes multiple tries. Frustrating. I’m finding I don’t much like new adventures in DIY kit building. I’m all in on Grin displays and controllers. This is a buddies ebike kit. Display setting on paper are not the same as the actual display. However the kit was $350 max. So I expect having wrinkles to iron out.
Thanks jo.

 

[indianajo]

I’m finding I don’t much like new adventures in DIY kit building. . However the kit was $350 max. So I expect having wrinkles to iron out.

I don't like shopping & building, mainly I like riding. But I've worn out 2 motors and 1 controller; it takes some repair work. Replacement parts rarely match anything. I've been riding the same bike for 4 years, 3 1/2 electric. Long term goal? Take it on Amtrak somewhere & tour. Or better Greyhound if they ever wise up and install a rack.

 

[tomjasz]

I’m with the owner/buddy. The power shuts down unpredictable as to when. PAS sensor led flashed as magnets, 12, pass the sender but no speedometer reading. I’m brain dead trying to help him sort. Argh…

 

[AHicks]

To confirm, you're seeing 2 problems. 1st is erratic power shutdown, 2nd is no speedo?

Speed signal does not come from the PAS sensor. It's either internal to the motor, or an external sensor using a magnet on a rear spoke. Direct drives are usually internal speed sensor, w/P07=47

 

[harryS]

I hate the SW900. I could not get the smooth PAS control like on a KT controller. So I put a KT controller on my second ebikeling kit.