What driver under new Vado SL Sunrace cassette?

Smoke

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USA
I recently got a new Vado SL EQ 4.0 in Smoke. I think it is 2021 or 2022? I love it but I also love to tinker, so I wish to replace the Sunrace cassette with something much lighter. Does anyone know for sure if the wheel has a traditional driver or XD? Thanks in advance. I am working on reducing the weight of revolving components for a livelier ride. Just replaced the tires and tubes with Schwalbe Marathon Supreme and felt a good difference in ride quality.
 
I recently got a new Vado SL EQ 4.0 in Smoke. I think it is 2021 or 2022? I love it but I also love to tinker, so I wish to replace the Sunrace cassette with something much lighter. Does anyone know for sure if the wheel has a traditional driver or XD? Thanks in advance. I am working on reducing the weight of revolving components for a livelier ride. Just replaced the tires and tubes with Schwalbe Marathon Supreme and felt a good difference in ride quality.
It is a 2022 model. 11 speed cassettes use a traditional driver.
P.S. What cassette do you think might be significantly more lightweight?
 
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I am not sure all 11 speeds use traditional because some have 10 tooth cogs. Thinking of Shimano XTR CS-M9001, probably a lightly used one.
 
when you take it off, let us know! i’m curious too since i noted the inclusion of 10 tooth cogs, which i understood required (geometrically?) an XD driver.

sunrace cassettes are very heavy. a worthwhile swap for an SL ebike, i would not do it on a higher powered mid drive.
 
from a fairly detailed review of the NX drivetrain:

Possibly the smartest decision SRAM made in formulating their budget wide-range is that they made the NX cassette compatible with Shimano’s standard hub driver rather than their proprietary XD design introduced with the XX1. This makes the system an easy upgrade for Shimano users and a nice choice for most budget shoppers or those with a “run-what-you-brung” attitude looking for replacement components. This does mean the bottom cog is an 11-tooth rather than 10, but but if you’re coming from 10 speeds to begin with, it’s barely noticeable.

this and the 11T stock cassette (possibly the same 11-42 on many specialized bikes) suggest a ”standard” driver, of course it’s an easy swap to an XD driver should a lighter SRAM or garbaruk or e13 cassette suit your fancy.
 
I removed the cassette and it is on the standard driver, as everyone suspected.
Just replaced tires with Marathon Supremes and SV18 tubes and lost about 158g per wheel of rolling weight per wheel. And the Schwalbe's are a more supple tire with a kevlar bead. I ordered a lightly used xtr cassette and I'll let you know how that goes when I get it on.
 
I removed the cassette and it is on the standard driver, as everyone suspected.
Just replaced tires with Marathon Supremes and SV18 tubes and lost about 158g per wheel of rolling weight per wheel. And the Schwalbe's are a more supple tire with a kevlar bead. I ordered a lightly used xtr cassette and I'll let you know how that goes when I get it on.
I don't understand the weight thing given an ebike. What difference in performance are you looking for?
 
I don't understand the weight thing given an ebike. What difference in performance are you looking for?
the SL ebikes are great to ride with the motor turned off. the feel of a bike with minimal rotating mass is unique and very enjoyable for many. i changed my creo’s cranks, pedals, chainring, driver, cassette, wheels, tubes, and tires, taking several pounds of rotating mass away, and the bike feels very noticeably faster and lighter and more responsive. same motor and battery as the vado SL that @Smoke has.
 
Could not have said it better, mschwett. I don't really intend to have the motor on all the time, or I would have bought a different type of e-bike. The Vado SL is fun as is, but will be a more nibble and quicker beast when the fat from anything that spins is trimmed. I was going to get the 5.0, but one was not available for months, so I think I found a better way to spend that $. I ordered the carbon crank arms today from Praxis. I'm going to live with the stock wheels for awhile but they probably will be replaced eventually.
 
Oh, well, I can understand the wish to make an e-bike as lightweight as possible. It makes a lot of sense with a road e-bike such as Creo. A lot of benefit would be lost with a flat handlebar e-bike such as Vado SL (the air drag is predominant here). For me, the benefits of having my Vado SL fully equipped (which adds a lot of weight) are far more important than the light weight. Otherwise I wouldn't be even using the Range Extender that weighs 1.1 kg (2.4 lb) together with the RE Cable.

To each their own!
 
I see your point Stefan. And btw, thank you for your incredible review of the Vado SL; it really helped me make my decision to get one!
Rotating mass is different from static mass. Picture your wheels as big gyroscopes - the heavier they are, the harder it is to change their direction, and hence lighter is livelier. When I have room side-to-side in my lane, I love to cruise zig-zagging back and forth because it's just fun. One of the big reasons why I ride. It is also true that I have loved to tinker with my bikes since I was about 6 years old and I'm now 71. I enjoy taking them apart and subtracting and adding parts to improve the quality of the ride. I would have preferred buying the frame, motor and battery and doing the rest myself. My bike is an EQ. I wouldn't be without a rack and fenders. That weight is negligible. And as far as body position, the halfway forward position of straight bars is very similar to the top position of drop bars.
 
Would love to see a list with components changed and weight saved for each. And final weight achieved? Did you get your SL under 30lbs?
 
BioWheel, not close to 30 lbs. I'm sure. I did reduce the rotating mass by about a pound and a half, and I can feel the difference in that its a little quicker to get going without power, and more lively when changing direction.
I put Schwalbe 35 Marathon Supreme and SV18 tubes on and lost about 325g. Also these tires just feel better. They are folding and so are more supple. Some of the best clinchers that I know of.
Also put Praxis carbon crank arms on and lost close to 100g and an XTR 11-40 cassette on and lost 185g.
I've put a carbon seatpost on, and am about to install SQlab carbon bars that have a 16 degree backsweep with 310 grips and some cool innerbarends that fit on the inner ends of these grips. Can't wait to get these on and go for a ride. The carbon post and bars are not really about saving weight, but for their damping effect.
At some point a new lighter set of wheels when I have the dough, and possibly a carbon fork though probably not the Specialized one.
Oh, and if anyone would like to buy the aluminum crank arms, they are 172.5 mm.
 
BioWheel, not close to 30 lbs. I'm sure. I did reduce the rotating mass by about a pound and a half, and I can feel the difference in that its a little quicker to get going without power, and more lively when changing direction.
I put Schwalbe 35 Marathon Supreme and SV18 tubes on and lost about 325g. Also these tires just feel better. They are folding and so are more supple. Some of the best clinchers that I know of.
Also put Praxis carbon crank arms on and lost close to 100g and an XTR 11-40 cassette on and lost 185g.
I've put a carbon seatpost on, and am about to install SQlab carbon bars that have a 16 degree backsweep with 310 grips and some cool innerbarends that fit on the inner ends of these grips. Can't wait to get these on and go for a ride. The carbon post and bars are not really about saving weight, but for their damping effect.
At some point a new lighter set of wheels when I have the dough, and possibly a carbon fork though probably not the Specialized one.
Oh, and if anyone would like to buy the aluminum crank arms, they are 172.5 mm.

sounds like a really nice setup! given that a creo with carbon frame can get down to 26lb, and the aluminum frame of the vado doesn’t weigh more than a pound or so more (?) and many other components are similar, i bet you could end up below 30lb! with great tires and the damping effect of the carbon should be a great ride on lots of surfaces.
 
BioWheel, not close to 30 lbs. I'm sure. I did reduce the rotating mass by about a pound and a half, and I can feel the difference in that its a little quicker to get going without power, and more lively when changing direction.
I put Schwalbe 35 Marathon Supreme and SV18 tubes on and lost about 325g. Also these tires just feel better. They are folding and so are more supple. Some of the best clinchers that I know of.
Also put Praxis carbon crank arms on and lost close to 100g and an XTR 11-40 cassette on and lost 185g.
I've put a carbon seatpost on, and am about to install SQlab carbon bars that have a 16 degree backsweep with 310 grips and some cool innerbarends that fit on the inner ends of these grips. Can't wait to get these on and go for a ride. The carbon post and bars are not really about saving weight, but for their damping effect.
At some point a new lighter set of wheels when I have the dough, and possibly a carbon fork though probably not the Specialized one.
Oh, and if anyone would like to buy the aluminum crank arms, they are 172.5 mm.
Thanks for the details Smoke. So awesome you're feeling a difference.
 
the SL ebikes are great to ride with the motor turned off. the feel of a bike with minimal rotating mass is unique and very enjoyable for many. i changed my creo’s cranks, pedals, chainring, driver, cassette, wheels, tubes, and tires, taking several pounds of rotating mass away, and the bike feels very noticeably faster and lighter and more responsive. same motor and battery as the vado SL that @Smoke has.
In another thread I believe it was said that it wasn’t a good idea to turn the motor on and off while riding. Is that really true? I’m getting the step through 4.0 SL in April and was looking forward to switching at times, while riding to motor off. For example on the flats, or just to force myself to work harder. Isn’t one of the handlebar controls “off”? I don’t see why it would be there if it wasn’t intended to use while riding. Perhaps I have misunderstood the comment. Lastly can anyone confirm whether the TCD accessory available for the Vado SL continues to show data when riding with the motor is off?
Thanks,
Marty
 
In another thread I believe it was said that it wasn’t a good idea to turn the motor on and off while riding. Is that really true? I’m getting the step through 4.0 SL in April and was looking forward to switching at times, while riding to motor off. For example on the flats, or just to force myself to work harder. Isn’t one of the handlebar controls “off”? I don’t see why it would be there if it wasn’t intended to use while riding. Perhaps I have misunderstood the comment.
Thanks,
Marty
Instead of turning the motor off, just depress the handlebars' remote "-" button until all the LEDs on the TCU "circle" go off. It is a level down the ECO. The system will remain alive (with all ride recording) but the motor won't support you anymore.
(It is similar to driving the car downhill: you never switch the engine off, you just do not depress the accelerator).

Lastly can anyone confirm whether the TCD accessory available for the Vado SL continues to show data when riding with the motor is off?
The TCD will work properly if you switch the assistance OFF but keep the system ON.
 
In another thread I believe it was said that it wasn’t a good idea to turn the motor on and off while riding. Is that really true? I’m getting the step through 4.0 SL in April and was looking forward to switching at times, while riding to motor off. For example on the flats, or just to force myself to work harder. Isn’t one of the handlebar controls “off”? I don’t see why it would be there if it wasn’t intended to use while riding. Perhaps I have misunderstood the comment. Lastly can anyone confirm whether the TCD accessory available for the Vado SL continues to show data when riding with the motor is off?
Thanks,
Marty
there is absolutely nothing wrong with turning the motor off. long press on top button on top tube, all three segments of light in the ring will turn off. the bike was designed to be ridden this way. i’ve in fact ridden my creo 99% motor off in the last few months.

i leave the electronics on, so the bike’s sensors are on, and the assist is available at the press of a button if needed.

bike on, motor off.
 
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