What brake pads do I buy???

[PCeBiker]

,.. Taking it off the mount and cleaning it might help, but it may need an overhaul.

With my front caliper removed, I can flip it upside-down and reach it up closer to the brake lever so I can pump the lever while watching the pistons.

I'm worried that my caliper doesn't need an overhaul, but it will after I have a go at it.

 

[Chazmo]

Yeah, I know about dust,..

View attachment 197828View attachment 197829


Sorry about posting the dirty pictures.
I don't intent to offend anyone.

Really? More noise? I guess I could use the ignore button, PC, but sometimes you have useful things to say. This just makes me sad.

 

[PCeBiker]

Here's a Real Noisy thread for you to ignore,..

Thread 'Calipers That Will Not Adjust Straight' https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/calipers-that-will-not-adjust-straight.57273/

 

[Gionnirocket]

Here's a Real Noisy thread for you to ignore,..​

Thread 'Calipers That Will Not Adjust Straight' https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/calipers-that-will-not-adjust-straight.57273/

NO!.... Not the ridiculous O_ring thread!

​

 

[PCeBiker]

I shall continue my brake caliper rebuild adventures on that thread.
It is actually a continuation.

I am sure to post more ridiculous pictures to waste everyone's data.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I shall continue my brake caliper rebuild adventures on that thread.
It is actually a continuation.

I am sure to post more ridiculous pictures to waste everyone's data.

I'd load them up with Slickoleum... They'll never stick again!

 

[PCeBiker]

I'd load them up with Slickoleum... They'll never stick again!

Yeah, but Slickoleum will attract dust, and I'd need to get it under the gasket/seal to be on the happy side of the seal.

I'd have to pull the pistons to get grease on the proper side of the seal.

 

[PCeBiker]

My stanchion be All Scratched Up !!

More Dirty Pics,..

 

[Chazmo]

Sigh. Oh well. Ignore button pushed.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

I thought you had a rubber boot over the stanchions? They fell off, didn't they? lol

 

[Chazmo]

I’ve cleaned up my spare Logan 180mm rotor in preparation for tomorrow’s install of new pads (hoping… that’s Amazon’s noted delivery date)… This rotor was off my spare bike. Thickness is perfect… spec’d at 1.8mm and measured by my trusty iGaging calipers. Oh, and breaking those 6 star-head screws free from the wheel hub (they used blue Loctite)… that was somewhat non-trivial. Will keep everyone posted tomorrow.

 

[spokewrench]

Not long ago, I checked my rear brake because it sounded scratchy. I saw a fine wire sticking out of the caliper. It was something I'd never encountered: 2 inches of 0.6mm saw wire, used in tiny coping saws to cut materials like glass. I don't know how it got on the street or how I picked it up.

One pad was worn to the metal on one corner, but the four edges of the opposing pad were even, with little wear after 2500 miles. I guess the saw wire cut away one corner, and the piston tipped the backing plate to that corner.

In the past, I'd bought two sets of resin pads. This time I ordered Corki semi-metalic. I had a pair of Corki resin pads from years ago. I put them in the rear and replaced the front ones, which didn't look worn, with semi-metalic Corkis.

To mount or adjust a caliper, I snug the screws, then back off just enough to let the caliper slide under each screw, maybe a quarter turn. Then I lash the brake lever to the handlebar, using a shoelace with a clove hitch or a velcro strap with a buckle. Clamping the disc tightly will align the caliper with the disc. Now, if I were to torque one screw while the other allowed easy movement, maybe torquing could cause the caliper to twist by flexing the disc. So, although it may be only 1/4 turn, I go back and forth so that one screw will help hold the caliper in place as I tighten the other. I've always ended up without drag or sponginess. I've never worried about o-rings.

The rigidity of ISO hex keys lets me feel when a socket screw is properly tight. (My ball-end keys are handy and equally rigid.) R clips are easier to work with than cotter pins.

When wet, the semi-metalic pads howl. I've never applied brakes faster than 25 mph and never needed brakes to control a long, steep descent. Resin pads have served me well for 5 years. I'll switch the front brake back to resin. My new $6 spreader is a few hundredths of a mm thicker than my disks, so I can set the gap before sliding the caliper into place.

keys, R

 

[Slaphappygamer]

I use resin pads too. I like them. I don’t use them much when I brake now though (thanks regen) so it’ll be a while before I need to change them.

Strange about that wire. It cut off that corner! Good thing you caught it now. I’d be curious to know if you ever see them again or where they came from.

 

[spokewrench]

I use resin pads too. I like them. I don’t use them much when I brake now though (thanks regen) so it’ll be a while before I need to change them.

Strange about that wire. It cut off that corner! Good thing you caught it now. I’d be curious to know if you ever see them again or where they came from.

Several times since then I've heard a brief rattling like a piece of that wire picked up by a tire and hitting a fender. I circle and look, and whatever it was remains invisible, like a short piece of fine wire thrown several feet. They're out to get me!!!

 

[Chazmo]

Not long ago, I checked my rear brake because it sounded scratchy. I saw a fine wire sticking out of the caliper. It was something I'd never encountered: 2 inches of 0.6mm saw wire, used in tiny coping saws to cut materials like glass. I don't know how it got on the street or how I picked it up.

One pad was worn to the metal on one corner, but the four edges of the opposing pad were even, with little wear after 2500 miles. I guess the saw wire cut away one corner, and the piston tipped the backing plate to that corner.

In the past, I'd bought two sets of resin pads. This time I ordered Corki semi-metalic. I had a pair of Corki resin pads from years ago. I put them in the rear and replaced the front ones, which didn't look worn, with semi-metalic Corkis.

To mount or adjust a caliper, I snug the screws, then back off just enough to let the caliper slide under each screw, maybe a quarter turn. Then I lash the brake lever to the handlebar, using a shoelace with a clove hitch or a velcro strap with a buckle. Clamping the disc tightly will align the caliper with the disc. Now, if I were to torque one screw while the other allowed easy movement, maybe torquing could cause the caliper to twist by flexing the disc. So, although it may be only 1/4 turn, I go back and forth so that one screw will help hold the caliper in place as I tighten the other. I've always ended up without drag or sponginess. I've never worried about o-rings.

The rigidity of ISO hex keys lets me feel when a socket screw is properly tight. (My ball-end keys are handy and equally rigid.) R clips are easier to work with than cotter pins.

When wet, the semi-metalic pads howl. I've never applied brakes faster than 25 mph and never needed brakes to control a long, steep descent. Resin pads have served me well for 5 years. I'll switch the front brake back to resin. My new $6 spreader is a few hundredths of a mm thicker than my disks, so I can set the gap before sliding the caliper into place.

View attachment 197920View attachment 197921 keys, R


View attachment 197919

Spoke, maybe the “wire” was part of the spring that broke off?

 

[Chazmo]

D’oh! OK, so I really cocked it up this time. I pulled the disc pads again in preparation for the arrival of the new ones, but this time one of the pistons came out and now hydraulic fluid (I think) has squirted out. Clearly I wasn’t supposed to let the piston come out of its housing.

I’m going to take the other piston out (hopefully) and clean it too to make sure it can slide properly, but… then how do I put this back together again? And, how do I re-fill (and presumably bleed) the hydraulic fluid? The hydraulic cable runs from the caliper up to the hand lever (second picture, I pulled the rubber cap off the hex nut). Advice?

 

[Chazmo]

D’oh! OK, so I really cocked it up this time. I pulled the disc pads again in preparation for the arrival of the new ones, but this time one of the pistons came out and now hydraulic fluid (I think) has squirted out. Clearly I wasn’t supposed to let the piston come out of it’s housing.

I’m going to take the other piston out (hopefully) and clean it too to make sure it can slide properly, but… then how do I put this back together again? And, how do I re-fill (and presumably bleed) the hydraulic fluid? The hydraulic cable runs from the caliper up to the hand lever (second picture, I pulled the rubber cap off the hex nut). Advice?

View attachment 197940View attachment 197941

Oh well, it doesn’t matter since I can’t dislodge the piston on the other side anyway. Maybe that’s why the thing wasn’t working right to begin with. I’ll keep working on it, but I cannot dislodge the star screws holding the caliper together, and I can’t get the other piston out, so I think I’m out of commission until I can take the other caliper off the donor bike. I think that one needs hydraulic fluid too though… Sigh.

 

[Chazmo]

Got the second piston out (worked it out with a pocket knife). Anyway, I’m cleaning everything up but need to know how to put it back into commission. I’ll check youtube for some instructions on filling/bleeding. Wish me luck

edit: OK, looks pretty easy, but I need a brake kit. Wish me luck (again).

 

[Slaphappygamer]

Glad you got it! I watched this video to help me.

But instead of a second syringe, I used the cup that screws into the brake lever reservoir.

 

[stompandgo]

You'll need a bleed kit for your brand of brakes. You may be able to save the seals, but since they're all apart anyway, I'd replace them, too. Everything should be squeaky clean. I prefer microfiber towels. Always use the type of fluid recommended by the brake manufacturer.