Ultrasonic cleaner?

Sierratim

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Nevada City, CA & Paradise Valley, AZ
I searched the forums and didn't find any posts related to using an ultrasonic cleaner for bike maintenance so here goes...

Cleaning the cassette should be done periodically. I do it less often than I should simply because it's tedious. I'm considering getting an $80 ultrasonic cleaner that would take care or this. I might even clean my chain more throughly, stranger things have happened...😂

Anyone have experience with this?

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My 11-sp cassette after manually scrubbing ALL the pieces.
 
My bike is a cheep_ò utilizing a freewheel rear drive, so replacing it is how I clean it. Not that I ever have. 🙃
The ultrasonic cleaner might be a good investment as I'd think you would find lots of things you could put in it other than your cassette and chain.
 
I have a compact ultrasonic cleaner and use it to degrease the chains on all of our bikes as I usually find grime and grit still lodged inside and between the rollers and plates even after having scrubbed them several times over. With respect to the cassette and chainrings, For me, it's far easier to simply soak and then clean them with a brush as there are fewer crevices in comparison to the chain where old grease could otherwise be difficult to remove. I also place the chain in a separate glass container filled with degreaser and then place it in the tank which is only filled with plain water. Makes cleanup a breeze.
 

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I’ve been using one for years in cleaning gun parts .my wife does her jewelry also great gadgets but the tank on most of the ones I’ve seen are noe big mine is 14”x6”x 5”
 
I don't like the idea of the chain having water sent into all the nooks and crannies on bare steel after the degreasing. I get 2,500 miles from my chains with my procedure, I think I'll stick with that.
 
thats why I use rock and roll lube I get some black but it wipes off the nI put then ew on the rest of the train stays clean enough. only al little bit on the jockey wheels. I can post a pic tomorrow.
 
No water contacts the chains. I deposit the chain in a container filled with degreasing agent which is subsequently placed into the cleaner's tank of water.
 
No water contacts the chains. I deposit the chain in a container filled with degreasing agent which is subsequently placed into the cleaner's tank of water.
I tried your process for the first time on a cassette. Came out very clean, like new actually. I would have had to disassemble the cassette and clean each part by hand to get it this clean. Clean up was a breeze with the degreaser in the plastic bag. Rinsed off the cassette and dried it with compressed air.

My wife thought it was a new cassette...🤣
 
I have a compact ultrasonic cleaner and use it to degrease the chains on all of our bikes as I usually find grime and grit still lodged inside and between the rollers and plates even after having scrubbed them several times over. With respect to the cassette and chainrings, For me, it's far easier to simply soak and then clean them with a brush as there are fewer crevices in comparison to the chain where old grease could otherwise be difficult to remove. I also place the chain in a separate glass container filled with degreaser and then place it in the tank which is only filled with plain water. Makes cleanup a breeze.
Looks beautiful.

Would have considered this before the first wax of the chain(soaking in degreaser in a jar works but becomes cost prohibitive if several soaks of expensive/non-toxic degreasers are needed).

Does it clean well with a mild degreaser like simple green+water? Given enough runs, does it get rid of the leftover lube inside completely?
 
@Sierratim
I haven’t tried cleaning cogs with it yet but will have a go at it next week. My cleaner tank is on the small side so I may have to flip them a few times during the procedure. In hindsight, I should have purchased a unit with a higher capacity tub to accommodate larger components. Good call on the baggy tip.👍

@Johnny
I don’t see why you couldn’t use a diluted solution. Hang to dry or used compressed air as Sierratim did. I purchase a 4L jug of cleaner at my local Cdn Tire store which lasts me quite a while. I think the amount of cleaning required will likely depend on how well/often your chain is maintained and the riding conditions it's exposed to. I usually degrease chains once or twice a month but my riding is done primarily in the dry. If chains are especially grimy, I would recommend a preliminary cleaning with a chain brush before placing it in the ultrasonic cleaner. I set the temp and timer of the cleaner to 50C for 45 minutes and will check the chain after that period of time. I find that in most instances one immersion is adequate for my purposes.

There is definitely a satisfying feeling when the chains come out of the hot bath clean as a whistle. No grime or grit left behind between the rollers and plates.

Some great advice on chain maintenance in the link below too:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
 
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@Prairie Dog Thank you for the explanation.

You may know, before the first time waxing chain needs to be very clean. I found out that no matter how the chain looks outside there is lots of grime/dirt inside and even after soaking in degreasers it needs to be agitated. I am usually pre-cleaning the chain on or off the bike before submerging but still. Ultrasonic cleaner seems to be a great solution.
How about the noise ?
Also I need to think of another reason to use it to make a case for getting one :D.

Since you chain is so clean why don't you give waxing a try. You may love how clean it stays.
 
The cleaner does make some noise during the agitation process but it’s pretty innocuous. Mine came with a metal basket but I rarely use it as it does occupy space. Personally, I like the convenience aspect of it. Remove the chain, place it in the tank, set it and forget it. I’ve also heard of people using them to clean small engine components, clock and watch parts, gun parts…….anything that would be difficult or too small to clean by hand. I know one of these days I'll find more use of it besides cleaning bike parts. ;)

I’ve heard and read some great attributes to hot dipping but I've been sitting on the fence with respect to switching. Just not sure I want to dive into it and discover that there’s more work to it than I'm otherwise led to believe. I ride during the winter and it gets pretty cold here -20c on a few of my analog rides. Any idea how the wax treatment holds up in subzero temps? Would it build up on the jockey wheels when it gets really cold? My current warm weather lube is Chain Saver which is a waxed based lube distributed by Finish Line. I’ve only started using it this summer and so far, it’s been performing well and keeping the chain relatively dry and clean. I’ll likely switch over to Muc Off -50C when the snow starts to fly.
 
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ride during the winter and it gets pretty cold here -20c on a few of my acoustic rides. Any idea how the wax treatment holds up in subzero temps?
A couple of years ago I rode whole winter , similar temperatures, slush, salt and snow. Unfortunately back then I was using a normal lube, it was a pain. Every week I was cleaning the bike. If I knew I definitely would have waxed it, it really can not be worse.

Now I live in a dry and relatively warm climate. Still I think you should be fine in cold temperatures(some even claim to have longer rewaxing periods under cold weather if it is dry!)

In the dry and warm weather I just did my first rewaxing in 200 miles. I think I could have gone further but didn't wanna risk it. If there is snow and salt then I think you will be looking at 50-100 mile rewaxing intervals. It will stay much cleaner than any other lube and cleaning the bike is much easier.
Just not sure I want to dive into it and discover that there’s more work to it than I'm otherwise led to believe.

I would very much encourage you to go ahead. So far I have switched two of my bikes(One mid drive, on hub) and results are amazing(keeping a thread on my experience here https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/ebike-chain-lubes.26667/). Initial cleaning has to be done very well, your chain looks perfectly cleaned for this job. I can not use toxic chemicals like OMS, gasoline etc. in an apartment so I used food grade turpentine(does a great job but very expensive for several soaks) on one, finish line degreaser on the other, both are doing well. I would start by cleaning the chain( until no residue comes) with a chain cleaner but your ultrasonic cleaner seems to be far superior for this purpose.

Re-waxing and cleaning the bike is so easy, I shook the chain in boiling water in a jar, rinsed/wiped and put it in the slow cooker(this way there won't be any contamination in the wax). I can't believe that I won't be cleaning my drivetrain because it is still so clean.
 
A couple of years ago I rode whole winter , similar temperatures, slush, salt and snow. Unfortunately back then I was using a normal lube, it was a pain. Every week I was cleaning the bike. If I knew I definitely would have waxed it, it really can not be worse.

Now I live in a dry and relatively warm climate. Still I think you should be fine in cold temperatures(some even claim to have longer rewaxing periods under cold weather if it is dry!)

In the dry and warm weather I just did my first rewaxing in 200 miles. I think I could have gone further but didn't wanna risk it. If there is snow and salt then I think you will be looking at 50-100 mile rewaxing intervals. It will stay much cleaner than any other lube and cleaning the bike is much easier.


I would very much encourage you to go ahead. So far I have switched two of my bikes(One mid drive, on hub) and results are amazing(keeping a thread on my experience here https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/ebike-chain-lubes.26667/). Initial cleaning has to be done very well, your chain looks perfectly cleaned for this job. I can not use toxic chemicals like OMS, gasoline etc. in an apartment so I used food grade turpentine(does a great job but very expensive for several soaks) on one, finish line degreaser on the other, both are doing well. I would start by cleaning the chain( until no residue comes) with a chain cleaner but your ultrasonic cleaner seems to be far superior for this purpose.

Re-waxing and cleaning the bike is so easy, I shook the chain in boiling water in a jar, rinsed/wiped and put it in the slow cooker(this way there won't be any contamination in the wax). I can't believe that I won't be cleaning my drivetrain because it is still so clean.
Thanks for that enlightening explanation and also to the video links. I've read that adding paraffin oil to the mix can help with the technique but that attaining the proper ratio of oil to wax is key. One fellow who is a member of another bike forum and who lives in the same province wrote that he was confounded by the process and couldn't seem to get the proper mix. He became frustrated at the number of times he waxed his chain without definitive results. Just want to avoid going through the same trials and tribulations if you can sense where I'm coming from. Do you add any additives to your wax bath?

With respect to cleaning using toxic chemicals, some owners have reverted to using plain water and dawn soap in their ultrasonic machines although I remain skeptical of its efficacy in comparison to a conventional degreaser. The stuff I use is biodegradable, non-flammable and phosphate free and I use it sparingly. I’m not a huge fan of the on-bike chain cleaners such as the one Park Tool sells. They still leave plenty of grit between the rollers. I find it much more convenient to remove the chain/cassette and scrub it manually… that is until I started using the ultrasonic cleaner. Any contaminated degreaser in the separate container used to clean the chain gets poured off into an empty jug and whisked off to the local hazmat depot when full. Since there is only plain water in the tub, there’s no cleanup involved. Will try and post some pics during my next session.

I'll be servicing my bike in the mud room during the winter season as our garage is not heated. The wax method in the second video seems a bit messy and I would prefer not to drip it all over the place. How do you manage to keep the area in your apartment clean? Also, how often can you reuse the wax before it need to be replaced?
 
last tiem I cleaned mine some simple green hot water and a brush took care of it. Now that I use rock and roll lube I may not have to clean it again as there is no buildup.
foofer, please elaborate. I went to Rock and Roll's site but they sell so many products I have no idea where to start. What is your experience please?
 
foofer, please elaborate. I went to Rock and Roll's site but they sell so many products I have no idea where to start. What is your experience please?
I use the yellow when it is not raining and the blue when it is. I cleaned my drivetrain once after I changed the first chain and went to rock and roll Now all I do is wipe the chain and clean a little bit of gunk off the jockey wheels once a week when I lube. the yellow only lasts about 100 or so miles. I don't know if it ha resulted in longer chain life. I got 2500 on my last chain and this one has gone even farther.
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Do you add any additives to your wax bath?

Yes as the video suggests I add PTFE powder(around 1 part PTFE 10 parts food grade paraffin).
The PTFE I use is https://www.runawaybike.com/products/ptfe-powder(quite happy so far, mixes as well as the one he used in the video), I mix it with food grade paraffin wax, I use Gulf Wax https://www.heb.com/product-detail/gulf-wax-household-paraffin-wax/156662 (you can find it in the food section). gulf wax boxes are around 1lbs so it is the perfect ratio for the PTFE in the link however I used 1 bar wax(around 1/4 lbs) with 11grams of PTFE to make sure it worked first. The smallest crockpot I got from Walmart($9-10) is the perfect thing for the job. Btw %10 PTFE content is far higher than molten speed wax and that may also be a reason why this homemade wax is superior in terms of chain protection.

With respect to cleaning using toxic chemicals, some owners have reverted to using plain water and dawn soap in their ultrasonic machines although I remain skeptical of its efficacy in comparison to a conventional degreaser.
I tried dish soap many times. For oil based lubes , like the factory lube, even when I boiled the chain with dish soap it unfortunately did nothing to get rid of the oil inside. I tested on the leftover brand new identical chain pieces(I cleaned cogs/cassette with dishwashing liquid (after brushing some degreaser on them first) with success though). Bike degreaser and orange peel turpentine however did get rid of that oil/lube.
Your friend maybe having trouble because he is not degreasing the chain well. From my experience the difference maker is how well you have gotten rid of the previous lube/oil in between the plates. I would first clean the chain well in the ultrasonic cleaner, then dry the chain and soak it in degreaser several hours (if the degreaser becomes cloudy you can conclude that there was still residue). After that I follow with rinsing the chain(mild soap, ,warm water) and finally put the chain in alcohol (I use IPA I have at home, of course I try to lay the chain flat to use as little as possible). If the chain is not clean enough alcohol also becomes cloudy.

Another point is I always leave the chain in the crock pot(set low) for at least 30 minutes so that the chain reaches the same temperature as the wax, expand and let the wax in while swishing it in the wax PTFE mixture 1-2 times during that time(PTFE does not dissolve , it will sink under the wax when not agitated, that is why I move the chain in the wax once or twice).


I'll be servicing my bike in the mud room during the winter season as our garage is not heated.

Perfect, in an apartment it was a pain, I would take my bike out every weekend in the cold for a wash. I use a garden sprayer filled with warm water, which sprays the right amount of water while not having anywhere enough pressure to harm any bearings and used car washing liquid.
In your case, before bringing the bike in, If I rode in the snow/salt, I would quickly rinse the drivetrain lightly to get rid of the salt with a garden sprayer(and wipe the chain with some cloth). In the apartment I made a spot , laid down some card board boxes /plastic sheets under the bike to keep things clean.

The wax method in the second video seems a bit messy and I would prefer not to drip it all over the place. How do you manage to keep the area in your apartment clean?

It doesn't drip that much, I was also expecting it to do so. When I take out the chain (please use a metal hook or some tool that is long and secure enough because the chain is very hot when you first pull it out) I simply let it drip while keeping it over the crock pot. Then I lay down a piece of kraft paper underneath the spot that I will hang it on. I don't wipe chain at all and it only drips several more drops then it cools fast (and I like having a bit of wax on the side plates too). If you let the chain heat enough you don't have that very thick build up you see in some videos, it is a thinner and imo better layer of wax.
 
Sounds good. I think that I'll give it a go. Based on your feedback and tips, the process doesn't appear as daunting as I initially imagined. I'll start by assembling the required materials by sourcing local suppliers first. Will let you know how it goes.
 
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