Turbo Levo Trail Remote & Walk-Assist

SmackIt

New Member
The new 2018 models have the trail remote & walk assist function. Is there any way to make this remote work on the earlier models? The unit mounts to the handlebars and a cable goes into the bike. Where does the cable plug into? Is there any hope for us early Levo adopters. I don't really care about switching the modes, but the walk-assist would be a game changer for a couple trails I ride that require carrying the bike in a couple sections.

Trail-Remote.jpg
 
Not sure if it's the same thing, but in my 2016 Turbo bike, the "walk-mode" (you pull the joystick up and the bike accelerates by itself without having to pedal) showed up after diagnosing the bike. Removing the 25km/h limitation will probably enable that function to you too. The hard part is convincing your dealer to do it.
 
Not sure if it's the same thing, but in my 2016 Turbo bike, the "walk-mode" (you pull the joystick up and the bike accelerates by itself without having to pedal) showed up after diagnosing the bike. Removing the 25km/h limitation will probably enable that function to you too. The hard part is convincing your dealer to do it.
Thank you for your response, this thread is about the Turbo Levo, not the Turbo. There is no joystick on the Turbo Levo and removing the 25km/h limitation has nothing to do with enabling the Walk-Assist mode. You need a button to activate it and pre-2018 Turbp Levo's do not have any kind of a remote.
 
I have the walk assist on my 2018 FSR, but my wife does not on her 2016 FSR expert. I phoned Specialized to ask if there was any way to retro fit and they said no. Too bad. It is a very great feature. They have the remote power mode changer add on, but that is not as important to her.
 
I have the walk assist on my 2018 FSR, but my wife does not on her 2016 FSR expert. I phoned Specialized to ask if there was any way to retro fit and they said no. Too bad. It is a very great feature. They have the remote power mode changer add on, but that is not as important to her.
Thank you for sharing. Let's not lose hope, Specialized usually says "no" to everything. What we need, is someone with both bikes to analyze the system and see what the differences are.
 
Maybe a little late the the game but I just added the trail mode and walk assist switch to my 2017 s-works turbo Levo. Note, the earlier models don’t have a hole in the frame for the wire to exit up by where the brake cable and shifter cable enter the frame so you need to drill it. Also after you have the switch installed and plugged into the motor you need to bring you bike in to your shop and have them update the programming on your bike so it will work.
 

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To add the walk assist switch to a 2017 Specialized Turbo Levo (took me about 2 hours as I’m slow):

Note: Soldering required (unless you are smarter than me).

1. Remove the left side crank with an 8mm Allen wrench. These cranks are self extracting. The bolt will lose a few turn then get tight again...Keep loosening it as it is working to extract the crank. You are not braking anything. You do not need to do anything to the right side crank. Leave it alone.

2. Remove the 2 motor covers on the left side around the motor. Note the screws are different lengths so don’t get them mixed up after you remove them.

3. Remove the battery by taking out the upper 6mm allen bolt toward the top of the frame. It’s just 1 bolt and the battery tilts out of the frame. Lift the battery out of the lower mount that it rests on by the motor.

4. Decide where you want to drill the hole in the frame towards the area the cables come out, up front. I drilled mine on the left side, close to where the cables enter the frame but not to close as I didn’t want to create a week spot in the frame with a bunch of holes in one area. Note: the wire for the switch is about 1/4 in diameter. I chose to add a rubber grommet around the hole I drilled so the wire wouldn’t be rubbing on metal so the hole I drilled was 5/16. Also, be aware that the connector on the switch is rather large. I couldn’t figure out how to take it apart leaving just the pins to be able to run it easily through the small hole in the frame so I wound up cutting the wire in half, running it into the frame and the soldering the 4 wires back together. If you can live with a big hole in the frame or figure out how to take apart the plug you can avoid cutting and soldering the wire.

5. Now that the wire is run, find on the motor where the wires connect( lower left, forward side). There will be two ports with dummy plug covers on them. Remove the dummy plug cover that’s the top one ( it sticks out a lot further the the other one) and plug your wire in.

6. Now attach the switch to the handle bar. You will need to remove the left grip, seat post adjuster, and brake lever.

7. Put all your hand controls back on the handle bars.

8. Reinstall your batter using the 6mm bolt you removed.

9. TAKE YOUR BIKE TO YOUR BIKE SHOP AND HAVE THEM REPROGRAM YOUR BIKE.

10. Reinstall the 2 motor covers.

11. Reinstall the left crank arm. Done.
A2EF465B-5324-480F-B020-E461E034DD16.jpeg
0E74C631-6FAF-4A09-B396-49823AA2384E.jpeg
 
Last edited:
To add the walk assist switch to a 2017 Specialized Turbo Levo (took me about 2 hours as I’m slow):

Note: Soldering required (unless you are smarter than me).

1. Remove the left side crank with an 8mm Allen wrench. These cranks are self extracting. The bolt will lose a few turn then get tight again...Keep loosening it as it is working to extract the crank. You are not braking anything. You do not need to do anything to the right side crank. Leave it alone.

2. Remove the 2 motor covers on the left side around the motor. Note the screws are different lengths so don’t get them mixed up after you remove them.

3. Remove the battery by taking out the upper 6mm Allen bolt toward the top of the frame. It’s just 1 bolt and the battery tilts out of the frame. Lift the battery out of the lower mount that it rest on by the motor.

4. Decide where you want to drill the hole in the frame towards the area the cables come out, up front. I drilled mine on the left side close to where the cables enter the frame but not to close as I didn’t want to create a week spot in the frame with a bunch of holes in one area. Note: the wire for the switch in about 1/4 in diameter. I chose to add a rubber grommet around the whole I drilled so the wire wouldn’t be rubbing on metal so the hole I drilled was 5/16. Also, be away the the connector on the switch is rather large. I couldn’t figure out how to take it apart leaving just the pins to be able to run it easily through a small hole in the frame so I wound up cutting the wire in half, running it into the frame and the soldering the 4 wires back together. If you can live with a big hole in the frame or figure out how to take apart the plug you can avoid cutting and soldering the wire.

5. Now that the wire is run, find on the motor the are where the wires connect. There will be two port with dummy plug covers on them. Remove the dummy plug cover that’s top one ( it sticks out a lot further the the other one) and plug your wire in.

6. Now attach the switch to the handle bar. You will need to remove the left grip, seat post adjuster, and brake lever.

7. Put all your hand controls back on the handle bars.

8. Reinstall your batter using the 6mm bolt you removed.

9. TAKE YOUR BIKE TO YOUR BIKE SHOP AND HAVE THEM REPROGRAM YOUR BIKE.

10. Reinstall the 2 motor covers.

11. Reinstall the left crank arm. Done.
To add the walk assist switch to a 2017 Specialized Turbo Levo (took me about 2 hours as I’m slow):

Note: Soldering required (unless you are smarter than me).

1. Remove the left side crank with an 8mm Allen wrench. These cranks are self extracting. The bolt will lose a few turn then get tight again...Keep loosening it as it is working to extract the crank. You are not braking anything. You do not need to do anything to the right side crank. Leave it alone.

2. Remove the 2 motor covers on the left side around the motor. Note the screws are different lengths so don’t get them mixed up after you remove them.

3. Remove the battery by taking out the upper 6mm Allen bolt toward the top of the frame. It’s just 1 bolt and the battery tilts out of the frame. Lift the battery out of the lower mount that it rest on by the motor.

4. Decide where you want to drill the hole in the frame towards the area the cables come out, up front. I drilled mine on the left side close to where the cables enter the frame but not to close as I didn’t want to create a week spot in the frame with a bunch of holes in one area. Note: the wire for the switch in about 1/4 in diameter. I chose to add a rubber grommet around the whole I drilled so the wire wouldn’t be rubbing on metal so the hole I drilled was 5/16. Also, be away the the connector on the switch is rather large. I couldn’t figure out how to take it apart leaving just the pins to be able to run it easily through a small hole in the frame so I wound up cutting the wire in half, running it into the frame and the soldering the 4 wires back together. If you can live with a big hole in the frame or figure out how to take apart the plug you can avoid cutting and soldering the wire.

5. Now that the wire is run, find on the motor the are where the wires connect. There will be two port with dummy plug covers on them. Remove the dummy plug cover that’s top one ( it sticks out a lot further the the other one) and plug your wire in.

6. Now attach the switch to the handle bar. You will need to remove the left grip, seat post adjuster, and brake lever.

7. Put all your hand controls back on the handle bars.

8. Reinstall your batter using the 6mm bolt you removed.

9. TAKE YOUR BIKE TO YOUR BIKE SHOP AND HAVE THEM REPROGRAM YOUR BIKE.

10. Reinstall the 2 motor covers.

11. Reinstall the left crank arm. Done.[/QUO
Maybe a little late the the game but I just added the trail mode and walk assist switch to my 2017 s-works turbo Levo. Note, the earlier models don’t have a hole in the from for the wire to exit up my where the brake cable and shifter cable enter the frame so you need to drill it. Also after you have the switch installed and plugged into the motor you need to bring you bike in to your shop and have them update the programming on your bike so it will work.
 
I bought it from my local bike shop which is Rock n Road cycling in Mission Viejo California (Jeff ‭(949) 859-5076‬) they charged me $80 for the switch yikes
 
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Hello Fijibudda, I would like to do the same modification on my 2016 Turbo Levo, because the Bluetooth remote do not work correctly.

Could you provide more information ? Reference of the trail remote that you buy ? (to check w/ my local bike shop (in France)) and what type of reprogam is done by your local bike shop ?

My Engine have :
serial number : C97272 (I supose Brose Drive S, exchanged under waranty by Speciazed) w/ the other parts of the serial number I supose that it was produced the 03 July 2017
Hardware : 98370100180617015108
FirmWare : 5.0.0

Battery :
Hardware 3
FirmWare : 4.22.3
 
Hello FijiBubba!

Thank you for the post and lead through for the trail/walk assist switch for the previous generation Turbo Levo FSR.

After install and software update, is everything working as expected?

I’m debatin running the switch wires into the battery cavity by a small routing of the edge of the frame and/or the battery itself. Will have to see how much room is required.

Thanks again for the diy post and pics!

Albikes
 
Hello Fijibudda, I would like to do the same modification on my 2016 Turbo Levo, because the Bluetooth remote do not work correctly.

Could you provide more information ? Reference of the trail remote that you buy ? (to check w/ my local bike shop (in France)) and what type of reprogam is done by your local bike shop ?

My Engine have :
serial number : C97272 (I supose Brose Drive S, exchanged under waranty by Speciazed) w/ the other parts of the serial number I supose that it was produced the 03 July 2017
Hardware : 98370100180617015108
FirmWare : 5.0.0

Battery :
Hardware 3
FirmWare : 4.22.3
I’m trying to find a part number for you.
 
Hello FijiBubba!

Thank you for the post and lead through for the trail/walk assist switch for the previous generation Turbo Levo FSR.

After install and software update, is everything working as expected?

I’m debatin running the switch wires into the battery cavity by a small routing of the edge of the frame and/or the battery itself. Will have to see how much room is required.

Thanks again for the diy post and pics!

Albikes
Albikes,

My bike is currently still at my bike shop to be reprogrammed. It will be finished on Monday. I will give you an up date on how it works then. I’ll post pics and hopefully a video.

You will absolutely be able to run your wire from the bars, along the outside of the frame to the battery canal, and then run it into the canal (above the battery) down to the motor. Obviously secure the wire to the frame up front before it goes into the battery channel. You will probably need to modify an area between the battery and frame to have enough room to get the wire in as the gap there is very minimal. This will eliminate the need to solder anything. Right on. I’ll keep ya posted.
 
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Here’s an update as promised. I just picked my bike up from the shop and it’s working perfect. Check out the video. They did an update which was easy and it worked immediately. Best of luck.
 
Yo Fijibubba!

That works so nicely! Thanks for the post. Any chance you have the part number for the switch?

Thanks,
Albikes
 
Yo Fijibubba!

That works so nicely! Thanks for the post. Any chance you have the part number for the switch?

Thanks,
Albikes

Albikes,

I don’t have the part number. I tried to get it from my shop but they said they just call their specialized rep and ask them to send a switch and don’t have a part number for it. They didn’t seem like they wanted to give me a part number either for whatever reason... Almost like they think they’d be loosing business because people would be ordering switches online and not coming to the shop to buy them and have the work done.
 
That is interesting, and I certainly wouldn't expect it, that the cranks turn while in walk mode. I have an actual throttle on my torque sensing mid drive and it doesn't display that phenomenon as the cranks are independent of the motor drive until you push on them which activates the PAS and overrides the throttle. Seems like there should be a one way bearing in there so that this doesn't occur but I guess because the Class I regs don't allow throttles they aren't engineered that way?

Watch your shins and calves!
 
I eared that in Europe, Specialized prohibits to there shop to sell the trail remote. If you want it buy the 2018 version of there Turbo Levo .... I need to confirm that w/ my shop but a colleague want it and his shop explain this to him.
 
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