TSDZ2b mid drive update

[Tigertone]

Hi I have recently upgraded my Tongshend Mid mount emotor to include a thumb throttle and now I find that the peddle assist is not working. However, the thumb throttle is working fine. Has anyone any ideas as to what is causing this problem ?

 

[Tigertone]

OK, so it wasn't a new motor. Try the hidden settings to read the torque sensor which may tell you if the controller sees it. They are so hidden that I never was able to access them on my TSDZ2, but I've read that they exist.

Well, I've been a decent run on the bike today, and, as I say, there is no peddle assist and the throttle seems to have no speed restriction so the bike just zooms along with me giving the motor a little help going up hills. Top speed is a out 25mph. So, that's it, I'm happy to leave it at that now and just sit back and enjoy a trip to the countryside.

 

[PedalUma]

With the VLCD-5 you get into the hidden settings by holding the power and i for about 8-seconds at start-up. I set one up this morning with 17 amps, 28" wheels, Mile unit, Speed 45K, 1 magnet. Here is a photo of the bike I made yesterday. It has the simpler 6 display. Check out the gears on this cruiser. Stinson is a beach in Marin County that looks out to the Golden Gate, the bike is a Marin bikes Stinson 2. It is their modern take on the classic beach cruiser. I suspect that a wire is crimped under the controller.

 

[benihanna]

The B is also better protected from water incursion on the drive side. It has a different step-down gear system. Throttles and speed sensors add lag. I ditch them. Ahh, so much better. The idea of a throttle has more appeal than what it does in the real world. The B does not take standard chainrings because of that added water protection. They will scrape a seal or need to be filed by 2mm around the inner diameter.

I'm working on a TS build now and wanting to keep things as simple as possible. Do you typically run the TSDZ2B without a speed sensor? Is it possible to also run without a display once I find the PAS level I like? I have a VLDC5 display.

 

[PedalUma]

You could program with the VLCD-5 and swap it for a VLCD-6. I almost exclusively use the 6. It is only available as a six-pin, the wire is 4mm. That allows me to go through frame. In 2019 I built a bike that had narrow chain stays. The standard speed sensor didn't fit, so I said F-it. And rode the bike for a year anyway. Then I came up with a hairbrained idea on how to adapt the speed sensor. It worked, but the bike then sucked. Forever it will have 1.6 Km on the odometer. I yanked that speed sensor as fast as I could, then the bike was amazing again. No lag, smooth, and perky. You need to have a display to operate the bike. The 6 is small and you can hide it anywhere. This is off topic: Remove the chainring with the five 4mm hex cap screws, then remove the plastic main gear cover with the four 2.5mm cap screws. Pack that cover with grease around its perimeter and replace. That grease will save your motor. It is important.

 

[benihanna]

You could program with the VLCD-5 and swap it for a VLCD-6. I almost exclusively use the 6. It is only available as a six-pin, the wire is 4mm. That allows me to go through frame. In 2019 I built a bike that had narrow chain stays. The standard speed sensor didn't fit, so I said F-it. And rode the bike for a year anyway. Then I came up with a hairbrained idea on how to adapt the speed sensor. It worked, but the bike then sucked. Forever it will have 1.6 Km on the odometer. I yanked that speed sensor as fast as I could, then the bike was amazing again. No lag, smooth, and perky. You need to have a display to operate the bike. The 6 is small and you can hide it anywhere. This is off topic: Remove the chainring with the five 4mm hex cap screws, then remove the plastic main gear cover with the four 2.5mm cap screws. Pack that cover with grease around its perimeter and replace. That grease will save your motor. It is important.

Thanks for the advice on the grease. I can probably fit 4mm through the access points on my downtube. Do you cut and reconnect the connecter?

 

[PedalUma]

Yes, I chop the connector, remove the 10 gauge insulation, and solder the six wires. I use small shrink tube on each little 24 gauge connection, three go one way, three the other, and then it gets 1/4 inch shrink tube over the whole thing. It all disappears in the hidden compartment under the chainring. You will need to fish with a brake cable and wheel magnet.

 

[PedalUma]

@benihanna,
Bikes that are through frame for the shift and rear brake housings need to be rerouted over the bottom bracket. I just got a new bike today. All I have done is install a kickstand so it won't fall over. On this one I will need to drill to route the shift, brake and display over the BB so they do not get crimped by the motor. It is a sweet starter bike and huge bang for the buck. It will be a commuter build with rack, panniers and German fenders.

2023 Marin Stinson 2 - Beach Cruiser [Colour: Charcoal/Blue/Tan][Size: L (height: 173-180cm)] | Bikes Online (USA)

BIKE PATH CRUISING CASUAL FITNESS SERIES 1 ALUMINIUM FRAME The Stinson features a Series 1 6061 aluminium frame with excep

www.bikesonline.com

 

[kevinmccune]

my step thru(36v-350 watt torque sensor think its vldc5) doesnt seem to do anything and cuts out quick a friend has it now and seems to think the motor isnt doing its job, he is a throttle guy the battery is a 10.2 ah what could be wrong? if this is the way the torque sensor responds,i would much sooner have pas and a throttle anyway to throttle the middrive?

 

[PedalUma]

@kevinmccune, I had a 350W TS that had very narrow chain stays and couldn't fit the standard wheel magnet pickup. So I did the build without it. Then one year latter I figured a way to mod the speed pickup to make it fit. It made the bike SUCK. That bike will forever read 1.3Km on the odometer. Throttles will do the same. The combo of throttle and speed sensor is the suckiest of all. Also, you need to pack the main gear (behind the plastic cover, behind the chainring) with grease. That will make a huge difference. Here is how that Marin turned out.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I'd say any motor kit that requires you to delete hardware in order to make it work correctly would fall into the category of SUCKS
Then add that it has a display left over from 1978 and that it can't calculate such a basic parameter such as speed would land it neatly in suckiest of all

 

[kevinmccune]

@kevinmccune, I had a 350W TS that had very narrow chain stays and couldn't fit the standard wheel magnet pickup. So I did the build without it. Then one year latter I figured a way to mod the speed pickup to make it fit. It made the bike SUCK. That bike will forever read 1.3Km on the odometer. Throttles will do the same. The combo of throttle and speed sensor is the suckiest of all. Also, you need to pack the main gear (behind the plastic cover, behind the chainring) with grease. That will make a huge difference. Here is how that Marin turned out.

THANX,I guess either friend or yours truly had unreasonable expectations,even to the point I WOULD STICK A HUB DRIVE ON IT( I like the frame and color so much would actually do that have a 20 ah battery and 750 watt hub motor begging to be installed on something( maybe a trike?) as far as the "natural feel" it doesnt mean anything to me want the motor to kick in with authority when I turn the crank or push the throttle, I like pas best of all with the throttle to get started these hills are steep around here, the 350 watt peacedove I had would put the royce union 350 watt middrive to shame when I hit a hill like to feel a little assist

 

[Gionnirocket]

THANX,I guess either friend or yours truly had unreasonable expectations,even to the point I WOULD STICK A HUB DRIVE ON IT( I like the frame and color so much would actually do that have a 20 ah battery and 750 watt hub motor begging to be installed on something( maybe a trike?) as far as the "natural feel" it doesnt mean anything to me want the motor to kick in with authority when I turn the crank or push the throttle, I like pas best of all with the throttle to get started these hills are steep around here, the 350 watt peacedove I had would put the royce union 350 watt middrive to shame when I hit a hill like to feel a little assist

Then you should be looking at a BBS*02B/HD

 

[kevinmccune]

Then you should be looking at a BBS*02B/HD

Think i will stick with hub drive,one day the wheel ittself will be the rotor,if I was on the bike all time I would do a 'Pedaluma" build,i am sure the BBS would be great, my big trouble is I do not shift gears usually preferring to sit and grind and you experienced builders know what a torquey BB would do to the cassette when I forgot to down shift,for idiots like myself a hub drive is probably better

 

[Catalyzt]

I'd say any motor kit that requires you to delete hardware in order to make it work correctly would fall into the category of SUCKS

Well, I agree in principle, but context is important, and here, the context is that most products would benefit from hardware or software deletion, and most contemporary products suck. Hey, I think electric windows suck in my MX5 and would love to delete them. I might get rid of the air bags too, actually-- they might save my life in a high speed crash, but kill me in a low-speed crash because I'm on blood thinners, so it's kind of a wash for me.

Then add that it has a display left over from 1978 and that it can't calculate such a basic parameter such as speed would land it neatly in suckiest of all

Not really. I installed a $15 aftermarket wireless speedometer, weighs almost nothing, has speed and odo and trip odo, time and stopwatch. Total weight and size of that plus the VLDC6 is probably about the same as the stock display and most commercial bikes.

1978 was a great year, don't knock it. For example, if you want SUCK in a psychiatric or pain medication, that would be most drugs developed after 1978. (Well, okay, maybe 1988.)