Torque Sensor Issue or Something Else?

[Mark Baugh]

Hello guys, I’m experiencing what I believe to be a torque sensor issue, recently the bike has started to have a jerking sensation while pedaling, the

sensation is more pronounced in rider assist level 4 and 5 than 1-3, mileage on the bike is ~ 209.

At first I thought I might have sheared a tooth off of the crank or one of the gears, but upon inspection none appear to be missing or damaged?

Any ideas on what's going on?

Thanks


Mark

 

[machv5]

Hello guys, I’m experiencing what I believe to be a torque sensor issue, recently the bike has started to have a jerking sensation while pedaling, the

sensation is more pronounced in rider assist level 4 and 5 than 1-3, mileage on the bike is ~ 209.

At first I thought I might have sheared a tooth off of the crank or one of the gears, but upon inspection none appear to be missing or damaged?

Any ideas on what's going on?

Thanks


Mark

I had a similar issue. I have a surface 604 shred. I don't know what bike you have but for mine what had happened is that the part of the frame where the wires exit to go to the motor and rear brake was a point of ingress for road dirt and water. Which is hell on wiring of industrial proportions even when the wiring isn't moving. So it's no surprise to me at least when I saw the state of my bikes crank bearing and the sorry state of the wire that used to be connected to it. When I was removing the bearings the entire unit spun and the crunching grinding noise gave me goose bumps and out of the hole on the inside where the wire for the torque sensor entered the bracket came the rusted slush like an extrusion from a play-doh set there was that much of it. There was so much dirt in there I swear at first i thought i had been the victim of some next level passive aggressive sabotage. Until I thought about it logically. I am one of those people that refuse to let a service technician have all the fun of repairing the things that I own that break and then to have to pay them to be able to do so. Even if it may void a warranty in some cases. Though in this one my 1yrs warranty period had ended a month or two before which I'm sure was purely coincidental. Bwaaahahahhha. Sorry but after taking my bike literally to pieces and seeing it's hidden inside I have to say I'm appalled that a company would hire a blind person to work as quality control and pass such a product and allow it to go to market. Zero f***s were given in it's assembly let alone proper testing as I doubt my bike is a one off. The controller box was dented due to it likely being hammered into the frame I now have mine on the outside. I also disassembled my battery as it was a he first step I took on trying to narrow down the problem. I was actually able to pour water out of it and I'm surprised nothing caught fire after seeing the corrosion on the circuit boards and explained why the LEDs that used to say how much juice was left had stopped working. I'm still shocked that such shoddy workmanship and assembly is present on a product that costs so much. It's disgusting. I'm not surprised I haven't heard much about this type of thing as usually it's not the customer that sees it due to most people having an lbs perform all the work. And why would they upset that apple cart when it is so lucrative. Sorry if I am being a little mean towards the industry. I've only had the one ebike and it may be that only the bike I have is the only one that was put together so poorly. I have pictures that I took. The positive battery connector was some solder and a broken spade terminal acting like a ferrel instead of using a proper connector. The solder joint was broken and the fit so loose it refused to stay together under any circumstances during reassembly so I cut it and went with a soldered western union splice of the wires instead.

Anyway then main reason I responded to your question was not initially to rant but to say this. If your bike has a thumb or twist type throttle and the torque sensor for pas then it should be ok to just detach the torque sensor and still have a functioning bike. I crossed my fingers that the bike would still work and that I wouldn't have to buy another torque sensor for the bike to work. And to tell you the truth I wish I'd removed the whole unit and resold it on eBay while it was still working properly as I actually much prefer my bikes performance and have much more control than I felt I had before. The bike no longer lurches when I'm at a stop and reposition my pedals without my hands on the brakes or worry about my bike trying to run away on it's own when the walk feature decides to kick in on its own. In fact I'd recommend that if any of the aforementioned problems have affected you in the same way and like me have almost gotten yi you killed as a result I'd suggest you disconnect or have your lbs disconnect your torque sensor until such a time when they aren't as prone to damage from dirt ingress seal up those holes into the frame till then or once they work out the bugs so you don't get propelled into traffic. Sorry for the length of this post if anyone is still with me hats off to you I don't know if I could have done then same.

 

[machv5]

 

[machv5]

Oh and I want to say I love my ebike. I have exercise induced asthma and the beginnings of COPD and it has given me a new lease on life I can go places again without fear of gasping for breath and feeling like I'm going to pass out. Even with all it's faults I'm so happy that I have one. I just wish that the manufacturer cared more about the product that they build and charge so much for.

 

[Mark Baugh]

I have a 2020 ROOK with a TORQUE SENSOR NOT A CADENCE SENSOR which was on the older model Shreds and MAYBE be currently in use, I've never seen a Shred in person so I don't know.

At the risk of confusing anyone else out there regarding torque sensors I’m going to add to this thread with the conclusion I have arrived a please feel free to correct my conclusion if you believe it be incorrect.

1. There are TWO types of SENSORS, a Cadence sensor which is located on the pedal crank and a Torque Sensor one which is located at the rear of the frame that the derailleur is attached to.
2. From their descriptions and picture I believe machv5 is discussing a Cadence sensor on the pedal crank ergo the two holes drilled to drain water from the area and I'm discussing a Torque Sensor located on the frame that the derailleur is attached two.
3. I am attaching two links of videos that will help anyone that was as clueless as I was, which should help clarify the discussion.

Surface604 emailed the attached picture of the Torque Sensor below to help me identify it over the phone. This is the part UPS is bringing me to replace.,

Good Luck 

https://youtu.be/iYZQMQJsz1E

https://youtu.be/imfi9MYwyjo
Edit or delete this
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)


1

 

[machv5]

I have a 2020 ROOK with a TORQUE SENSOR NOT A CADENCE SENSOR which was on the older model Shreds and MAYBE be currently in use, I've never seen a Shred in person so I don't know.

At the risk of confusing anyone else out there regarding torque sensors I’m going to add to this thread with the conclusion I have arrived a please feel free to correct my conclusion if you believe it be incorrect.

1. There are TWO types of SENSORS, a Cadence sensor which is located on the pedal crank and a Torque Sensor one which is located at the rear of the frame that the derailleur is attached to.
2. From their descriptions and picture I believe machv5 is discussing a Cadence sensor on the pedal crank ergo the two holes drilled to drain water from the area and I'm discussing a Torque Sensor located on the frame that the derailleur is attached two.
3. I am attaching two links of videos that will help anyone that was as clueless as I was, which should help clarify the discussion.

Surface604 emailed the attached picture of the Torque Sensor below to help me identify it over the phone. This is the part UPS is bringing me to replace.,

Good Luck 

https://youtu.be/iYZQMQJsz1E

https://youtu.be/imfi9MYwyjo
Edit or delete this
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)


1

Ahh! Then that is not the part I am referring to. I'll grab a picture of the unit in question. Gimme a mo

 

[machv5]

Ahh! Then that is not the part I am referring to. I'll grab a picture of the unit in question. Gimme a mo

Here is what I am referring to. And it is named as a pas torque sensor on the website I pulled this image from. There is another sensor in the hub motor with a bunch of magnets arranged in a disk. Which I am assuming is a cadence sensor but I am guessing that that is what it is mainly because I don't see the need to hhave two of the same thing just in a different spot on the same bike. That just seems redundant to me but if the bike does have two torque sensors then I guess it does and must have a reason for doing so. I admittedly don't know enough about ebikes and their parts and reasons for having them. Though I would guess that it has to do with some legality or such so that the bike can be sold as a pedal assist bicycle and not a motorcycle or LSM low speed motorcycle like a scooter 50cc or less gets designated as, though today in BC anyway if it runs on gas it doesn't matter if it has pedals or not it is an LSM and you need to have at least a car license and insurance to ride one. And it needs indicators proper mud guards brake lights etc... on my bike I've never been stopped even when not wearing a helmet.