Top tip
- Thread starter dknightd
- Start date
Doomsday
Active Member
LOL, yep did that on day 1. Luckily I had it in a bike stand so it didn't take off on me.
poorplayer
Active Member
Pro tip: Keep your junk as far away as possible from the hinge when you are unfolding the bike from a folded position. Don't ask me how I know.
I've learned to use PAS 0. Or just blip the throttle. Keeping one hand on a brake lever is also a good idea!NEW TIP
For the new XP owners if you are riding between things like offset bars/turnstile going into a sidewalk etc... Always hold your brakes on just a little,keeps the motor from starting up when you don't expect it. Ask me how I know
johnboatcat
New Member
Tip top....
If you find that your LCD screen is not working after working on your bike and you have checked every available connection then just turn on the key. Duh!
If you find that your LCD screen is not working after working on your bike and you have checked every available connection then just turn on the key. Duh!
johnboatcat
New Member
Tip two...
To remove your hand grips just warm them up real good with a hair dryer and the come off fairly easy.
To remove your hand grips just warm them up real good with a hair dryer and the come off fairly easy.
johnboatcat
New Member
Tip three...
I ride in Florida on the beach so I needed extra protection from the salt. I taped my brake rotors and masked off my calipers then sprayed the bike with CRC pure silicon spray (Wally World $3) and let it dry in the sun. Then wipe off the residue. It drys better than other corrosion preventives and fills the pores of the metal. Keeps my boat and scooter clean and sharp so I figured it would work here. Once it is on it is just about water proof.
I ride in Florida on the beach so I needed extra protection from the salt. I taped my brake rotors and masked off my calipers then sprayed the bike with CRC pure silicon spray (Wally World $3) and let it dry in the sun. Then wipe off the residue. It drys better than other corrosion preventives and fills the pores of the metal. Keeps my boat and scooter clean and sharp so I figured it would work here. Once it is on it is just about water proof.
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rich c
Well-Known Member
Fills the pores of the metal? Only the pores rust? Reads like snake oil to me.
johnboatcat
New Member
If you seal the pour before the rust starts then you are ahead of the game. Need to use it when the item is new. Been using it for thirty years and it works for me in the salt air of Florida.
The best part about spraying down an entire bike with silicone to prevent rust and corrosion from salt is that the bike is made from rust-free aluminum. Yes I know aluminum can corrode over time, especially if next to dissimilar metals, but the frame is also painted. This seems like complete and total overkill to me, unless you are actually riding in the salt water to some extent for a bit. Yes, I know the ENTIRE bike is not made of aluminum, but the majority of the frame is.
johnboatcat
New Member
Correct. No need to spray the painted metal. When I said I sprayed the bike I was referring to all the bolts, nuts, fittings, spoke ends etc.
Ahhhh makes total sense now! Nice job... all I pictured was a greasy feeling bike all over the place. ha
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