thoughts/suggestions on bike work stands

I have and old feedback sports stand also and I just open up the clamp and hook the nose of the saddle in it. I usually try estimate the amount of height I want the arm at first though. I guess I have just adapted to it and have built quite a few complete bikes using it that way. For sure will move around some while working but totally manageable. Can turn the cranks easily at the right height to not hit the support leg. I always us it to lube my chain also.

Was in a shop today that had two big pro lifting stands and as impressive as they are overkill for my needs and way $$$$
 
I have and old feedback sports stand also and I just open up the clamp and hook the nose of the saddle in it. I usually try estimate the amount of height I want the arm at first though. I guess I have just adapted to it and have built quite a few complete bikes using it that way. For sure will move around some while working but totally manageable. Can turn the cranks easily at the right height to not hit the support leg. I always us it to lube my chain also.

Was in a shop today that had two big pro lifting stands and as impressive as they are overkill for my needs and way $$$$
Unfortunately, the Feedback stand hasn't worked well for me, for a number of reasons. Two of my e-bikes, which weigh about 65 and 100 pounds, respectively, have air compression suspension seatposts, so I don't think it would be a great idea to hang that much weight from the nose of the saddle. One of them, the R&M Homage, is pretty easy to lift up with the battery removed and a Hirobel bar attached. Unfortunately, even this lighter of the two bikes is heavy enough that the sliding boom portion of the stand slowly lowers under gravity, and I have to frequently re-adjust it, which either means lifting the whole boom with the bike clamped in or removing the bike, adjusting it back up and lifting the bike back up.

I also have a fairly extreme slope in the front part of my garage, which is the only area large enough in our small San Francisco row house to work on bikes, for drainage. This causes the stand with the R&M in it to sometimes tip over, and I have to catch it before it falls over. This limits its utility for me for things requiring a lot of torque, tuning, et cetera. The 100 pound bike has all of those problems magnified by almost a factor of two, and it's a real struggle to get it up in the stand. Not to mention that the clamp somewhat interferes with the top tube shifter housings on that bike (it's an old-fashioned mountain bike frame), and some electrical cables running along the side of the top tube.

Our third bike is a trike, and I have no solution whatsoever for that. I usually prop it up on yoga blocks, wood, crates, or whatever is lying around. There are trike lift stands out there, but they are bulky and cost the same $2,000-3,000 USD as the other professional bike lift options. Funnily enough, just this morning, Topeak seems to have released a new e-bike stand, which by the way I think will be a great product for a lot of people. It is much cheaper, but still costs just under $1,000, only provides 33 pounds of lift assistance, and maxes out at 55 pounds of weight capacity.

I ended up buying the Black Widow 1,000 pound motorcycle lift from Discount Ramps. At the time of this reply it is on sale for $559 plus $250 shipping, which is still cheaper than the Topeak above while providing 1,000 pounds of lift force and weight bearing capacity. I was going to get one of the Kendon lifts, but realized that while it folds down into a small form factor and has a hose for pneumatic lifting, it wouldn't be able to hold our trike very easily. So I decided to buy the Pittsburgh Motorcycle lift that is very similar to the Black Widow, but it was a bit too large at 101 inches long. The Black Widow is only about 87"; I discovered it after realizing the Pittsburgh Motorcycle lift was a general category of lift and there are lots of versions of it.

We may or may not be getting a Cake Osa+ moped/motorcycle in the future, which weighs about two-hundred pounds, so this lift would allow me to service that bike as well, which a traditional bike stand, even the $3,000 ones, wouldn't allow me to do.

I'm just going to keep it parked under the area where my bikes are usually parked, as it folds down to only 7" tall. If I had more space in the garage, I would just set up a work table with a wooden ramp like a lot of e-bike, MTB and motorcycle enthusiasts do. Since I don't have the space, this lift is the next best option, as it is essentially that--a work bench with a ramp--but it folds down out of the way and moves on casters so it can stack underneath other things in the garage, in this case bikes.

It does create a little bit of a problem, as bike stands are designed to lift the bike from the frame so both wheels are free for tuning or wheel/fork removal. A couple of relatively cheap additional products will get me around that though. One is this stationary rear wheel stand, which will allow me to do things like derailleur tuning. That company is really funny, by the way, they sell bike generators and e-cargo bikes with Grin tech components; but also a rear rack, human-powered blender. Not kidding! 🤣 The other is this chainstay stand that I can use for rear wheel removal. For front wheel removal, I'll just lock the rear wheel into the lift with the wheel clamp and lift the front with my ceiling hoist. It won't wobble as much as usual because the rear wheel will be locked in place. For the Osa+, if we ever get one, I'll just use a cheap motorcycle jack, which is what people use on these lifts for motorcycles anyway. For the trike, I'll just use a foam yoga block to lift one end like currently, but the other end will be locked into the wheel clamp. It's a little narrower than the trike's front wheels, but a plank of wood will solve that easily enough.

I don't think this solution works for everyone, but it meets all of my needs, and I think it's a great intermediate option, whether you use the style I purchased or one of the Kendon lifts, that is considerably more expensive than a typical bike stand, but the same or cheaper than that new Topeak stand, and considerably cheaper than the professional bike stand options, while simultaneously being much more capable. Now that I know about this category of product, I'm even more blown away by how overpriced those professional bike stands are. Even if I ran an e-bike shop, I think I would prefer the motorcycle lifts. The main downside as I see it is that they aren't nearly as compact, obviously, but they solve so many problems with traditional bike racks that I'm willing to trade that off. They are also much more expensive, but being so much cheaper, and also more capable than the high-end of bicycle racks and lifts, and given the amount of use I will get out of it, I don't see that as a huge downside. Certainly it won't work for people with very limited space, like an apartment, and if you have a single e-bike that is 55 pounds or less with the battery removed, you can just get the Topeak (although that costs the same or more).

It's funny, a lot of e-bike haters and people ignorant about e-bikes think they are mini motorcycles, which is absurd on both a legal and technical basis, but I have to admit they do occupy a hybrid space between traditional bicycles and mopeds/scooters/motorcycles that has had me turning to a lot of motorcycle products to meet some of my needs, because those needs just haven't been met in the e-bike space yet.
 
Last edited:
I have used Park work stands for more than 40 years, (I am on my second stand). I don’t think that these stands were designed to hold e-bikes, but it does have a 100 pound capacity. The issue that I see is in how to clamp the bike. Typically, the seatpost is used, but I would not suggest that with a 75 pound e-bike unless you let the bike hang down in a fairly balanced position. Carefully clamping the top tube might work better, provided that the bike has a top tube. Removing the battery is of course the first step in making life easier.

221E7386-A541-41D6-888D-76FE47B34419.jpeg


How you get the bike into the clamp depends on many factors. If you have an area such as a garage or basement, then a simple hoist should do the job. If you are working in a room that cannot have a hoist, then a folding ramp would probably work well, (wheel it into position and clamp the bike in. Even a stool or box to set the front wheel on, then lift the rear into position could do the job as well. Another possibility is to rest the front wheel in a wheel block and simply lift the rear wheel.

1961B10B-B58A-4C8D-BC84-4FD35F0FB557.jpeg


Alternatively, you could ask a friend for help or you could take it to the lbs.
 
Last edited:
I took delivery of the Black Widow today and performed the small amount of light assembly necessary to set it up. It was a delivered in a wooden crate and the shipping weight including the crate was 311 lbs.; the weight of the lift is 272 lbs. It was delivered by a local LTL freight company, Estes Express, and the shipment was set up for contactless delivery with no signature, and there was no option available via Discount Ramps or Estes to change that, so I tracked down the number for their Bay Area office and called them to verify they would deliver it into the garage. The receptionist was very friendly but told me it was at the driver's discretion. He gave me a little bit of resistance, but ultimately I convinced him to push up my very short driveway into the garage with his palette jack.

The crate was very easy to break down, I didn't even need a crowbar, I just used my hands as it was mostly stapled together. Assembly is very simple; it's light enough to use fulcrum to lift one end and attach the 'dumb' casters on the back end. The front end has height-adjustable feet, so you just screw those down to give yourself enough space to attach the smart casters. Once the casters were on, it was very easy to roll off of the crate.

Overall it was delivered in good condition; the decal on the wheel clamp crank sleeve is messed up, and the ramp was slightly bent on the left rear corner, but other than that it was good. Not sure I would order from Discount Ramps again based on that though.

I took some shots using our R&M as a model which are provided below. No offense to people who have been using regular bicycle stands for 40 years, but this is just way better for a stable of unusually heavy and unwieldy e-bikes. I can't really rely on my wife to help me lift the 85 lb. trike or my 100 lb. DIY bike into a stand, even with batteries removed, given that they are disabled and don't have much upper body strength. And, as I said, the extreme slope in my garage floor makes those stands impractical for me anyway, as they want to tip over and can't seem to handle the weight. And they can't handle the trike at all. I have a ceiling hoist, but that's not a great solution IMO because the bike swings around on you. The location of my hoist isn't great for working on both sides of the bike either. I might add another hoist in the future more towards the center of the garage, probably one of the electric models you can buy off of Harbor Freight for $150 or so, and maybe put it on rails so it can slide back and forth.

This lift, in contrast, is incredibly easy to use, and as you can see below, stows almost completely out of the way right up against the mud sill in my garage. It solves every problem I've ever had with bike stands working on e-bikes. I'll post more photos in the future with some of the additional tools I'll be using in conjunction with it, namely a rear wheel stand, stay stand, and in conjunction with the hoist. Since it has a weight capacity of 1,000 lbs., I'll be able to use it for the Cake Osa+ that we are considering possibly getting some day. I'm already really pleased with it and recommend it to any DIYers with space in a garage for it, it's well worth the investment and way cheaper than the professional bike stands at about $900 including shipping and taxes. That said, if your e-bike weighs 60 lbs. or less, and/or you only have one e-bike to work on, and your garage is completely flat, it's probably overkill.

20220927_145943.jpg
20220927_144628.jpg
20220927_144649.jpg
20220927_144743.jpg
20220927_144820.jpg
20220927_144835.jpg
20220927_150207.jpg
20220927_150445.jpg
 
I took delivery of the Black Widow today and performed the small amount of light assembly necessary to set it up. It was a delivered in a wooden crate and the shipping weight including the crate was 311 lbs.; the weight of the lift is 272 lbs. It was delivered by a local LTL freight company, Estes Express, and the shipment was set up for contactless delivery with no signature, and there was no option available via Discount Ramps or Estes to change that, so I tracked down the number for their Bay Area office and called them to verify they would deliver it into the garage. The receptionist was very friendly but told me it was at the driver's discretion. He gave me a little bit of resistance, but ultimately I convinced him to push up my very short driveway into the garage with his palette jack.

The crate was very easy to break down, I didn't even need a crowbar, I just used my hands as it was mostly stapled together. Assembly is very simple; it's light enough to use fulcrum to lift one end and attach the 'dumb' casters on the back end. The front end has height-adjustable feet, so you just screw those down to give yourself enough space to attach the smart casters. Once the casters were on, it was very easy to roll off of the crate.

Overall it was delivered in good condition; the decal on the wheel clamp crank sleeve is messed up, and the ramp was slightly bent on the left rear corner, but other than that it was good. Not sure I would order from Discount Ramps again based on that though.

I took some shots using our R&M as a model which are provided below. No offense to people who have been using regular bicycle stands for 40 years, but this is just way better for a stable of unusually heavy and unwieldy e-bikes. I can't really rely on my wife to help me lift the 85 lb. trike or my 100 lb. DIY bike into a stand, even with batteries removed, given that they are disabled and don't have much upper body strength. And, as I said, the extreme slope in my garage floor makes those stands impractical for me anyway, as they want to tip over and can't seem to handle the weight. And they can't handle the trike at all. I have a ceiling hoist, but that's not a great solution IMO because the bike swings around on you. The location of my hoist isn't great for working on both sides of the bike either. I might add another hoist in the future more towards the center of the garage, probably one of the electric models you can buy off of Harbor Freight for $150 or so, and maybe put it on rails so it can slide back and forth.

This lift, in contrast, is incredibly easy to use, and as you can see below, stows almost completely out of the way right up against the mud sill in my garage. It solves every problem I've ever had with bike stands working on e-bikes. I'll post more photos in the future with some of the additional tools I'll be using in conjunction with it, namely a rear wheel stand, stay stand, and in conjunction with the hoist. Since it has a weight capacity of 1,000 lbs., I'll be able to use it for the Cake Osa+ that we are considering possibly getting some day. I'm already really pleased with it and recommend it to any DIYers with space in a garage for it, it's well worth the investment and way cheaper than the professional bike stands at about $900 including shipping and taxes. That said, if your e-bike weighs 60 lbs. or less, and/or you only have one e-bike to work on, and your garage is completely flat, it's probably overkill.

View attachment 136615View attachment 136620View attachment 136619View attachment 136618View attachment 136617View attachment 136616View attachment 136614View attachment 136613

I must be missing something. How do you do a derailleur adjustment?

My bikes only go into a stand if the work requires the wheels to be off the ground.

The width makes me think that the mechanic would have to lean in or reach pretty far forward.

I used to lift my old Beetle Cat onto it’s building frames unassisted using a bridle and block and tackle, (375 pounds when new, bare hull). It seems that a hoist or ramp to get the bike up into a stand’s clamp would work for most.
 
Last edited:
I must be missing something. How do you do a derailleur adjustment?

My bikes only go into a stand if the work requires the wheels to be off the ground.

The width makes me think that the mechanic would have to lean in or reach pretty far forward.

I used to lift my old Beetle Cat onto it’s building frames unassisted using a bridle and block and tackle. It seems that a hoist or ramp to get the bike up into a stand’s clamp would work for most.
Sounds like you have your own work flow figured out. I like to have my bikes off the ground so I can use a rolling chair or stand to work on them; I used to sit on the dirty garage floor and I'm kind of tired of that. For my DIY bike, I also did all of my own wiring and sometimes need to solder on the bike; it's just easier to do that standing up or in a chair. For a derailleur adjustment, I'll use one of these:

15900048-flashstand-eup-6-997561.jpg20220927_164523.jpg
It's no different in principle than how gearheads work on motorcycles using these things: use the lift to get it off the ground to a convenient working height, then a small jack to lift one of the wheels. If I need to remove a wheel altogether, I'll use my existing bike hoist. And the Cake Osa+ is an actual electric motorcycle. I'm not going to use a bike stand for that. Keep in mind that the whole point of the OP is that people in this thread are dissatisfied with consumer-grade bike stands, and the professional ones are too $$$. You're not dissatisfied, and like using traditional bike stands and a block and tackle instead of a hydraulic lift. Good for you. This is a solution for me and anyone else who doesn't like those solutions. You don't have to be disgruntled by it; to each their own. You do your thing, I'll do mine.
 
Here's a pic of the bike stable back in place. This is exactly how I had these e-bikes arranged before, the R&M is just sitting 7 inches higher.
20220927_164533.jpg
 
Sounds like you have your own work flow figured out. I like to have my bikes off the ground so I can use a rolling chair or stand to work on them; I used to sit on the dirty garage floor and I'm kind of tired of that. For my DIY bike, I also did all of my own wiring and sometimes need to solder on the bike; it's just easier to do that standing up or in a chair. For a derailleur adjustment, I'll use one of these:

View attachment 136625View attachment 136626
It's no different in principle than how gearheads work on motorcycles using these things: use the lift to get it off the ground to a convenient working height, then a small jack to lift one of the wheels. If I need to remove a wheel altogether, I'll use my existing bike hoist. And the Cake Osa+ is an actual electric motorcycle. I'm not going to use a bike stand for that. Keep in mind that the whole point of the OP is that people in this thread are dissatisfied with consumer-grade bike stands, and the professional ones are too $$$. You're not dissatisfied, and like using traditional bike stands and a block and tackle instead of a hydraulic lift. Good for you. This is a solution for me and anyone else who doesn't like those solutions. You don't have to be disgruntled by it; to each their own. You do your thing, I'll do mine.

I’m not disgruntled. I just wouldn’t like to use a wide stand because it would be awkward to work on a bike that is so far away.

I understand the value of a good work stand. I have worked on and restored motorcycles since I was a kid.

So no offense to you either, (for the record, you cast the first stone), but I think that working on an ebike using a lift that can handle an FLH and that makes the bike difficult to work on because of the width of the stand and because the stand does not free the wheels is for most people, including the person that started the thread, an unrealistic “solution “.

If it works for you, great. but it seems a little like shooting a prairie dog with an AR15.
 
Last edited:
I’m not disgruntled. I just wouldn’t like to use a wide stand because it would be awkward to work on a like that is so far away.

I understand the value of a good work stand. I have worked on and restored motorcycles since I was a kid.

So no offense to you either, (for the record, you cast the first stone), but I think that working on an ebike using a lift that can handle an FLH and that makes the bike difficult to work on because of the width of the stand is for most people, including the person that started the thread, an unrealistic “solution “.
Okay, my bad then, but I'm not sure what stone it was I cast. Just a case of misinterpreted tone over text.

Moving on then, it really isn't difficult to work on. The whole platform is only 27" wide, perhaps it looks wider on camera. I'm also 6'2" tall and have long arms, so I don't really notice any difficulty getting access to a bike on the stand. Earlier I was tightening up some bolts on the lift itself, with the lift all the way up, and swiveling around it in an old task chair in my garage. It's light enough, at least empty or carrying an e-bike--I wouldn't do this with anything over 150 pounds or so--that I could actually swing it around on its casters while still sitting in the task chair. Leaning forward from a task chair probably adds a little reach as well. I do wish the wheel clamp were centered, but since it only clamps one wheel, it's easy enough to reposition the other end of the bike closer to the edge. This is a minor thing, but I also appreciate the fact that it provides a surface to place tools and components that isn't either the floor, where they accumulate dirt, and in our household, tufts of dog and cat fur; or my workbench or an open drawer of my tool chest, which are not conveniently close to where I work on my bikes, meaning I usually have to walk back and forth in my garage more frequently than is necessary. I've used the plastic tray that comes with the Feedback bike stand, but it's quite small and can quickly fill up with tools and parts.

The LBS where we bought the R&M is called The New Wheel. I recently canceled our long-running service membership because the R&M is now completely out of warranty and my mechanical skills have come far enough I just don't need an LBS anymore. They use those $3,000 red e-bike stands, and I've watched their mechanics, especially the shorter ones, struggle to lift e-bikes into those things many times. They don't have room for anything else in their original store, which is really small, a typical SF shotgun rowhouse. They've opened up a larger offsite commercial space for repairs now though and the original storefront is mostly just that--a storefront. Honestly, if I ran an e-bike shop like that, I would probably want to use these instead, maybe in a slightly smaller form factor like the folding Kendon lifts, just because it's so much easier and faster to get a bike up and down, not to mention that the whole thing can be easily wheeled anywhere you want, so you'd have more flexibility in reconfiguring your workspace with multiple mechanics. At New Wheel, as with other bike shops I've seen in the past, the bike stands never seem to move once they're set up.
 
I have an older Park PCS 9 and so far, it’s worked for me. I’m lucky that I can still lift my Levo with its dropper seatpost up into the clamp with my right arm under the top tube while cranking it closed over the dropper post with my left hand. I’ve pre-positioned the height of the stand less than 4’ from the bottom of the clamp and angled it appropriately so that I don’t have to lift the bike that far off the ground. Once it's tightly clamped, I'm able to rotate it to a level position useful when servicing the drive train. Fortunately, none of my bikes weigh more 50lbs.

IMG_20220927_1951350.jpgIMG_20220927_1950570.jpg

There’s actually less torque/force exhibited at the clamping point than at the seat post collar so no fear in damaging anything as long as the dropper is fully extended.

 
I re-read the original few posts thinking I had missed something given the strong indication of dislike for using a hydraulic stand, and the vibe that somehow this would not have fulfilled the OP's requirements. After doing so, I don't think I really missed anything, and I think this would work fine for the OP, given that he specifically mentioned using bike and lawn mower hydraulic lifts in the past. He is quite correct, and the situation has not changed much, regarding traditional bike stands with hydraulics or some other mechanical means to lift a bike. They still cost about $1,000 and only offer about 30 lbs. of lifting force. And again, the professional ones run $2,000-3,000.

With no disrespect to the other replies here, I would be very curious to see you lift my 100 lb., dual motor, dual battery e-bike into a regular bike stand with grace and ease, and for it not to fall over once in place on my sloped garage floor. You might be very strong, but I'll be honest, I don't think you could do it. And I'd would really love to see you get an 85 lb. electric tadpole trike in one of those stands--which no professionals that work on tadpole trikes do, they all use specialized stands for trikes. So a $600 hydraulic bike lift seems to fit the bill perfectly. The width is not really an issue, I'm confused about the confusion on that. 27" divided by two is 13.5". If you can't reach a foot, which is less than the length of my forearm, then you must be tremendously short and small, or so disabled you probably shouldn't be wrenching on anything. I would only imagine this being a real problem for a little person, and even then, I think most people with dwarfism have a one-armed reach much greater than a foot. The stand is also fully mobile on casters, so you can move it anywhere you want easily and work on it from any angle you desire.

If you only ride emtb's or Van Moofs, or similar, suitably light e-bikes with narrow frames and boost tire sizes at most, I entirely agree that a regular bike stand is fine. I might continue to use my Feedback stand for some work on our R&M, because it is light enough with the battery removed and a Hirobel bar strapped in where a top tube would normally be. However, having already done so, I have found it is far easier to work on even that bike with the hydraulic lift, as no Hirobel is required. I hear you on the seatpost, I would just rather not mount a heavy bike like that, particularly because it still doesn't solve the problem of lifting a heavy or ungainly bike up, either before or after you clamp it.

For heavier e-bikes like my 100 lb. bike tractor, a cargo bike, SUV bikes, fat bikes, cafe racers, step-throughs, tadpole trikes and the like, I find the hydraulic lift is a far superior method. And if you have a heavier bike like an electric motorcycle or scooter, or one of the illegal mopeds that people like to call 'e-bikes', like a Sur Ron, it will work for that as well.

I'm not new to bikes. When I rode road bikes and an old mountain bike in the 90's, I just used the flip-it-over method. Works great for a 15 lb. bike. Later, I used a bike stand. With heavier, bulkier bikes and a sloped garage floor, those methods no longer work for me. Anyway, I won't belabor it further here. It doesn't seem to be a popular idea on this thread, so I will start a new thread with my findings from using it for a few weeks for those who are interested, hopefully with some video. I'm doing that to keep with forum etiquette, although to be honest, it kind of seems backwards on this thread, since the OP specifically mentioned hydraulic jacks and lifts. Just telling someone to do it like everyone else does and suck it up when they have expressed that they do not wish to do so for specific reasons is a violation of forum etiquette, in my opinion. Not on a TOS level, just on a forum culture level. That doesn't really offer a constructive alternative solution, which is what the OP was looking for. Comments along the lines of an RTFM vibe, or just do it like you're supposed to vibe, while depressingly common on forums nowadays, aren't really in the spirit of what forums are all about.

Having never used a stand like this, I've been very surprised at the ways in which it is unexpectedly useful, as often happens when one discovers a new tool. I realize it is unconventional in the bike space, but hey, so are e-bikes. There are plenty of people out there still who think e-bikes are dangerous cheater devices that should be banned. Just saying. But anyway, I'll post more on that in the other thread. Cheers.
 
Looks like the brand of the lift above is "Kendon". I am recently very interested in this as well since I'm looking for a better solution to my current Feedback Sports stand, which can barely handle my R&M, and cannot handle my DIY tractor e-bike that weighs 100 lbs. For the latter I currently use a ceiling hoist for some things, and the floor for others, but a ceiling hoist is not a great solution because the bike swings around. All of the hydraulic or electric lift options cost like $2,000-3,000 USD! Some of the motorcylce jacks are quite affordable, around $150, but to make them work for an e-bike would require a great deal of customization bolting additional hardware on top of them somehow. I also found this, which is still expensive at $600, but that's a lot less painful than $3000. There is also this stand, from Bikehand, which can handle 110 pounds, but suffers the same problem as the Feedback as far as difficulty of lifting the bike. The Minoura above unfortunately appears to no longer be produced, and costs about $800.

Kendon has a few great options with hydraulic jacks that connect to a manual pump or compressor and compact folding.

Also found this one at Home Depot that has a jack to lift the rear wheel.

I kind of want one of the Kendon hydraulic lifts. Now to convince the SO.
Yes Kendon. A HUGE mistake selling it. No way can I get a bike onto my Park Tool PS ever again…
 
I saw this on another forum. It’s a bit expensive, but could be worth the investment for a person with multiple bikes to service.

 
I saw this on another forum. It’s a bit expensive, but could be worth the investment for a person with multiple bikes to service.

An interesting product but quite pricey.

It still takes up valuable floor space though unless you take the time to fold & unfold it each time you service a bike. In some cases, that takes more time than doing a quick adjustment on the bike.

I would like to see a version of this designed to mount on a wall or workbench leg.
 
Back