Thoughts on this upside down Hailong Battery Installation?

Tom@WashDC

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Loudoun County, VA.
Looking for real world experience here from anyone that has installed an upside-down Hailong type battery, like in the picture. I have a Hailong battery installation on my Fat Bike and I am thinking of adding a second battery, and I am inclined go with this method. I have no doubt that I can install the mounting plate securely to the frame. My only area of concern is will the battery stay in the mounting plate after extended use. I would definitely secure the battery with an additional strap.
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Anybody have any real world experience with this installation?

~Tom
 
I don't know why this guy didn't put the controller box on the bottom. The difference in CG is minimal.
If you are planning on any serous stump jumping I would be concerned about impact on the battery.
 
I have thought about this installation. The configuration is not as secure. But weight is low and that is good. You would need at least three rivet nuts installed in the frame to secure the mounting plate to the frame. Use washers on the bolts. A strap is a great idea. Solder and seal the connection to the battery inside the mounting plate because that area is more vulnerable to water in this setup.
 
Because if you put the controller box at the bottom, that means you would have to put the battery in the middle, which would interfere with rear suspension travel.
It looks like the battery will fit.
 
Definitely would use multiple (4) Rivnuts to install the battery mount. I don't do a lot of jumping, but I ride pretty hard and aggressive off road. I am also looking at these innovative battery mounts. https://t-cycle.com/collections/all-battery-mount-parts

That bike in the picture is being sold by a manufacturer on Allie Express.
I would want it centered on the frame for balance. Each riv-nut is another hole in the frame that you jump! @JES2020, the rear suspension will smack the battery if it is in the triangle when it is in motion. I often use smaller batteries and use Topeak Versa Mounts. One pair per every three pounds without doing big jumps.
 
I would want it centered on the frame for balance. Each riv-nut is another hole in the frame that you jump! @JES2020, the rear suspension will smack the battery if it is in the triangle when it is in motion. I often use smaller batteries and use Topeak Versa Mounts. One pair per every three pounds without doing big jumps.
Yeah just use a smaller battery then, simple.

The point being, I would want the weight of the battery supported by the frame, plus you get better protection for the battery in the triangle.
 
Let the air out of the front fork and fully depress it to make sure you have clearance before you commit to this installation. Hailong battery boxes are notorious for breaking tabs. Secure it with good straps.
 
Thanks, yes that is my concern, the four plastic tabs that hold the battery in the mount. I am not convinced they would hold up over time.
 
What is very important with a Hailong battery are the two little slots at the back of the battery. Those slots must be engaged or the front tabs are in danger of being shattered. The front tabs may be holding but if the battery is not installed far enough to engage the rear slots or, the battery is back but not engaging the slots, you are asking for trouble. Caution is advised because trying to force the battery all the way on screws up the back slots quickly.
 
Thanks, yes that is my concern, the four plastic tabs that hold the battery in the mount. I am not convinced they would hold up over time.
Yeah the Hailong packs aren't the most durable and the connection between the battery and base plate would definitely fail if it wasn't strapped in tight. I'd do as @PedalUma 's says and solder a lead directly out of the battery.
I struggled with battery location for a bit and had it rear rack mounted in the beginning which works well enough for city streets but wasn't ideal for riding aggressively on bike paths.
This is where I am now and I'm happy as the capacity is more than enough for my daily 20mi exercise ride.
 
I built up a 21ahr battery for a buddy and he mounted it below his downtube of an older dual suspension Mongoose with a BBSHD and it's been that way for a year or so. He's got 200+mm travel front forks so he's got the room. He also bled the forks down for maximum compression to make sure everything was clear. He built up his own enclosure out of some macarta material, sealed all the joints with silicon and then heat shrinked the whole thing with only the wiring and plug for the battery exposed. He made a flat mounting plate and cut a piece of tubing in half that I think fit the downtime diameter pretty well and welded those together and then he used hose clamps to mount to the frame. Still going strong. Saw it in his garage today. I'll post up a pic next time I see him to illustrate what the hell I'm talking about.
 
Yeah the Hailong packs aren't the most durable and the connection between the battery and base plate would definitely fail if it wasn't strapped in tight. I'd do as @PedalUma 's says and solder a lead directly out of the battery.
I struggled with battery location for a bit and had it rear rack mounted in the beginning which works well enough for city streets but wasn't ideal for riding aggressively on bike paths.
This is where I am now and I'm happy as the capacity is more than enough for my daily 20mi exercise ride.
I had thought of a rear rack battery, on a rear suspension fat bike, but I figure with the way I ride, it would eventually have problems.
 
I have a bike with a Hailong battery fixed upside down. When I rode off-road the plastic sliders on the mounting plate broke. Because my battery is inside a case and not visible I used 3 zip tie to fix it. I would use 2 velcro straps with the blue MTB bike on the picture.
 
designed by an EBR member.

I believe that was the handlebar BOB, the bottle BOB was all Justin and his team.

Mounted a few batteries on the bottom of the dt when I worked for a conversion shop bitd using riv nuts and straps. It worked but I was never happy with them esthetically. I made a mockup out of flat foam packing at that shop in a U shape that I felt would solve the problem of batteries on tight clearance downtubes but that never went anywhere.
 
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