Thoughts Of An Experienced E-Biker

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Stefan Mikes

Gravel e-biker
Region
Europe
City
Mazovia, PL
A Noob

When I entered the Brave New World of e-bikes in late August 2019, I understood how the e-bike instantly changed my life. An ailing person who could hardly walk, I could suddenly zoom greater and greater distances for exercise, adventures, grocery shopping, and -- the most important of all -- for fun. Even before my ailments developed and manifested their presence, a traditional bike ride was painful for me: Countering headwind or climbing on a bike was no fun; I needed to stop every 5 km for rest. I had no incentive to be on the bike everyday! With the purchase of the first e-bike, I started riding faster, for longer distances, and as frequently as never before!

As a noob with some money, I started buying new e-bikes on the "N+1" principle to end up with 4 very different e-bikes. And, as a noob with some money, I was doing everything to improve what I bought! The number of experiments, new gear, equipment, "improvements" I've done to my e-bikes might fill a decently sized book! And I've been the noob for some three years. Until I changed. After documented 26,000+ km (16,200+ mi) ridden on e-bikes, I think I changed and reached a level of maturity.

Let me describe what I believe in now, and what experiments have brought valuable outcome.

N-1, Or Only Keep The E-Bikes You Actually Ride
If you own several e-bikes, some of them are just gathering the dust. If you choose to ride each of them, the maintenance costs start to mount to an unbearable level. After having determined my real needs, I just reduced the number of my e-bikes from four to just two. I keep a heavy, strong and fast full power e-bike that is priceless for long, demanding trips (especially in the mountains) and a lightweight low power e-bike that I ride on a daily basis, and which has proven to be appropriate for long and fast gravel group rides. Actually, I feel I still own one e-bike too many but it would be hard for me to get rid of either of them!

Use Your E-Bike As Intended By The Maker, Or Do Not Change The Nature Of Your Steed
Disclaimer: I'm only talking of good e-bikes from major bicycle brands.
The big bicycle brand has accumulated decades of experience, and makes e-bikes of a proven geometry and componentry for the intended purpose. "Do not change a bronco into a mule!"
  • You have bought a premium commuter e-bike. The bike geometry tells you the e-bike should be ridden in a forward position. What do you do? You think you need to ride in a more upright position; you raise your stem then buy curved handlebars (or Jones H-bars for instance); you are replacing the saddle with the widest and softest saddle you could find. You have changed the very nature of your e-bike. You believe the changes were necessary but surprisingly you still suffer pain in your butt, hand numbness or back aches. So you experiment more and more not to avail really.
  • You thought buying a full suspension e-MTB would make your city rides comfortable. Now, you have realised your electric mountain e-bike simply hates city riding! So you swap your off-road tyres for "all-rounders", raise the stem, trim your wide handlebars (ouch!), add a rack and maybe even a kick-stand. You have crippled your mountain-goat to become a cow...
  • You thought a road/gravel e-bike was cool. Now, you put a comfortable saddle, a rack/pannier, long fenders, and perhaps a kickstand on your e-bike. Making it even heavier and against its intended purpose.
The issue we all are facing is an universal e-bike does not exist. We are not capable to determine our real needs prior to the purchase, either.

The Stock Components Are Not Necessarily Hopeless
If everyone of us noobs could have just tried riding our first e-bikes without immediately modifying them... I managed to make many unnecessary replacements of stock components on my e-bikes. For instance, it took me almost 3 years to realize the stock Specialized Electrak 2.0 tyres on my Vado 5.0 actually were the best thing, and I should have not replaced them in the first place. Or, it took me more than a year to find out the stock Specialized Bridge Sport saddle on my Vado SL was actually a very good thing that I really didn't need to replace with another seat! To be honest, even the stock grips on my both e-bikes that I keep were quite OK! Why to replace anything just because it is "stock"?

The More I Ride, The More Lightweight I Appreciate
That's why I ride my heavy Vado less and less, giving the preference to Vado SL.

Tyre Inflation Pressure
It is true that increasing tyre pressure makes the e-bike roll easier. On the other hand, the tyres are the ultimate bike suspension, especially for dampening rapid road vibrations. Reducing the tyre inflation to the "sweet point" between the rolling resistance and ride comfort is something I could greatly recommend to anyone!

Extra Suspension, A Worthy Thing?
Oh yes. For most of good e-bikes ridden by the Forum members, a Kinekt 2.1 or RedShift Shock Stop suspension seat-post is certainly a valuable improvement for your rear. On the other hand, installing a suspension stem on an e-bike already equipped in any form of front suspension makes little sense. Any type of the front suspension is made to dampen slow vibration; it is the tyres that flatten the rapid vibration.

Saddle
There is no Saddle Holy Grail. If you have chosen riding in a more upright position, most of your body weight will inevitably rest on your butt. Expect back/spine aches. No comfort saddle can be as soft as an armchair if you need to be pedalling your e-bike. With the riding position more forward, you lighten up your ass. Surprisingly, many aches might have gone. Once you have moved your body position forward, you will notice a seemingly hard and narrow saddle might even become more comfortable, especially if you ride in chamois. A narrower saddle means no chafing on your thighs and axils.

Pedals
Very expensive bikes are delivered without pedals. In most of cases, even expensive e-bikes will be delivered with cheap unimpressive pedals. It is your choice what you do.
I do not want to start yet another holy war with the lovers of "clipless" (who actually clip in). Just want to say good wide platform pedals with traction pins are almost as good as clipless pedals/cleated shoes, and I often ride platform pedals just in sneakers. It is your choice though.

Handlebar grips
As I mentioned before, the stock grips can be in many cases excellent. I'm a great believer in the enhancement called SQlab Innerbarends, which I perceive as one of the greatest inventions for flat handlebars. Innerbarends let me lean forward without hand numbness, be myself more aerodynamic, have perfect access to brake levers and the shifter, and keep my arms closer still retaining a pretty wide handlebars. I spend almost my ride time in the Innerbarends now. Having the Ergon GP2 bar ends available too, I hardly use them now.

Rear-View Mirror, Daytime Lights, And The Helmet
I simply cannot ride without the rear-view mirror. Inexpensive Mirrycle is the type I've used on my all e-bikes. The glass part never broke in any of several Mirrycles I have owned. The secret of the proper Mirrycle set-up is to tighten all screws very strongly. The threaded parts are made of brass there; brass can stand very strong tightening, and you can hear it squeaking when you tighten the screws: it is the proper thing.

Many of EBR Forum members are bitching they cannot switch their daytime lights off. "See and Be Seen". It is for your own safety!

Wearing the helmet goes without saying.
 
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Excellent advice!! I would agree, and after the purchase of 2 e bikes for the misses and me, we have a full garage. Our modifications are very few. Being full time RVers, I just wish the garbage truck adapter was a little bigger sometimes. :)
 

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I also have a cruiser type ebike but I'm happy using my full suspension emtb as an all round bike. Slack angles these days make for more comfortable position. And the suspension makes for a nice cushy ride. The only downside imo is the efficiency you lose when pedalling due to the suspension but shocks that have settings to stiffen are very helpful here. Also commuters would have to find a place for their stuff as a rack on the back may not work out.
 
Very wise words, Stefan!

I've ridden my 2 ebikes for some miles before making any changes - simply to know how the bike operates, how it feels, how it rides stock. Gotta have that baseline. And riding it as intended by the manufacturer is of utmost importance, e.g. your words about turning an athletic bike into a cruiser, or an eMTB into a city bike. Amen.

Hopefully rather than shoot you down, people will read this and learn.
 
I also have a cruiser type ebike but I'm happy using my full suspension emtb as an all round bike. Slack angles these days make for more comfortable position. And the suspension makes for a nice cushy ride. The only downside imo is the efficiency you lose when pedalling due to the suspension but shocks that have settings to stiffen are very helpful here. Also commuters would have to find a place for their stuff as a rack on the back may not work out.
What tyres?
 
I agree with you for the most part Stephan but, I, I, I just gotta screw with the bike. I can hear my father! "Yeah just hadda mess with it didn't cha?" I have spent more than I would have on a commercially available bike to this point but, but, them thar bikes are unfkwithable for the most part. I just gotta mess with it!
 
Those are all good thoughts, Stefan.

A bit more on tire pressure: Among road bike riders (racers too) the trend in the last 5 to 10 years has been to wider tires at lower pressure. Softer tires soak up a lot of the road vibration compared to narrow/rock hard ones. Studies show a bike rolls just as fast an more comfortably with wider, softer tires, provided the wider tires are quite flexible, not stiff. So why not just run your narrow tires soft? Pinch flats.

The leader in this trend has been Jan Heine of Rene Herse. Tire pressure is of course a personal choice, but here's a link to a calculator showing what he suggests.

 
I'm running Johnny Watts which are great on the road, mediocre in loose gravel, but handle most trail conditions. Pretty happy with them as I don't have much loose gravel to ride just lots of roots, rocks, and roads.
Let me describe briefly my experience then.

Giant Trance E+ 2 Pro (a full suspension trail e-MTB) was my third e-bike. I bought it because I wanted a -- haha! -- comfortable e-bike!
  • The Monster "told me" it hated riding the pavement. The knobby downhill tyres were roaring so loudly I felt sick on my rides. The 38T MTB chainring and high rolling resistance tyres made my road rides slow and requiring extra effort from me
  • I started transporting Monster to the beginning of the trails. We do not have many off-road trails in the region I live, and we hardly have any hills. An overkill. And off-road rides were making me very tired!
  • Yes, my Monster was very good in the mountains. Soon, I discovered I was unable to ride technical singletracks because of lack of skill. I was also chickening out when seeing any gnarly downhill trail section! Not my tale.
  • Because of the need of riding for long distances (as opposed to technical singletrack riding), I had to buy a spare battery. Carrying a spare battery is not what you do with the e-MTB really (unless you are ready to carry a 9 lb "brick" in your backpack).
  • There was literally a single vacation trip of mine where I actually needed a FS e-MTB!
I started crippling my Monster:
  • Added a stem riser for more comfortable riding position
  • Added a big padded saddle
  • Equipped the e-bike with a rack, so I could carry a pannier with the spare battery
  • Replaced the DH tyres with Johnny Watts (and was using Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pros in the winter)
  • Added portable lighting...
On one dramatic downhill ride, the pannier detached from the rack because of the vibration and damaged my expensive DSLR camera...
Just recently, I went on a 95 km gravel group ride (with many segments of rough terrain and sand) with the Monster. The e-MTB turned out to be totally unsuitable for gravel cycling! While it actually shone in the forest and on a sandy climb, the e-bike was just too slow to match the group of strong and young traditional gravel cyclists!

At some turning point of my life, I actually gave the Monster to my beloved cousin. He started with removing the rack. He kept the stem riser as the Monster was a tad too small for him. He's using "all rounder" and winter tyres. He has ridden for many happy miles (road and off-road) on that e-bike but he never carries a spare battery. He actually could do the Imperial Century twice on the Monster, using a single 625 Wh battery. He loves that e-bike; I hated it.
 
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"You have bought a premium commuter e-bike. The bike geometry tells you the e-bike should be ridden in a forward position. What do you do? You think you need to ride in a more upright position; you raise your stem then buy curved handlebars (or Jones H-bars for instance); you are replacing the saddle with the widest and softest saddle you could find. You have changed the very nature of your e-bike. You believe the changes were necessary but surprisingly you still suffer pain in your butt, hand numbness or back aches. So you experiment more and more not to avail really."

I personally disagree with the above statement.

I changed my commuter bikes straight handlebar with a M-shaped handlebar.
I swapped out the original seat and post with a Selle Royal Drifter dual spring seat and a Thudbuster ST seat post.
And I LOVE the changes.

However, in the winter I put the original straight handlebar and slim MTB style seat and alloy seat post back on the bike.
Riding in snow and on unplowed roads is tricky so when that's happening I put my seat post down as low it goes so my feet can be flat on the ground for stability. It's also easier to move on and off the MTB style seat if I need to in a quick motion. Putting the straight handle bar back on is necessary so I can use my Bike Handlebar Mitts (Pogies). The bike as original is more nimble to ride in slippery winter conditions, so that's good.

I am comfortable on my bike with the forward position in winter
and the changed, laid back position, spring, summer and fall.
 
I personally disagree with the above statement.

I changed my commuter bikes straight handlebar with a M-shaped handlebar.
I swapped out the original seat and post with a Selle Royal Drifter dual spring seat and a Thudbuster ST seat post.
And I LOVE the changes.
I did modifications to raise the bars to all e-bikes I owned, and I equipped all of them in comfortable saddles. I like riding pretty long distances (42 Metric Centuries, 8 Gran Fondos -- distances of 130 km or more -- and 2 Imperial Centuries). These long rides meant numerous issues to my backside and lot of aches of my back, shoulders as well as hand numbness. Lowering the bars to the minimum allowed height, riding in Innebarends, and using hard and narrow "sports" saddles (while wearing chamois) caused all pain and aches be gone.

If you use your e-bike mostly for commutes Dave (and I assume these are not longer than 25 miles?) then the "comfortable setup" of your steed may be appropriate for you.

P.S. "I saw the light" by observing gravel cyclists: How come they can ride extreme distances such as 300 miles? They ride in the hoods of their drop bars in a forward position, wear chamois, and use "sporty" saddles.
 
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MommRide your off the shelf Specialized ebikes.
I like to customize my bikes for me.
Because I can.
Oh stop. Specialized are the only good eBike. Like jesus , love em or die in hells fire. Goofy! Stoners have more insights. FFS Pollack punk. Kinda like Hawaiian Zydeco. Weird. Lol
 
Overall good discussion. I bought an Mountain bike and changed it into a commuter for towing the grandkids.. Looks like a beach bike now with full suspension.. It works well for me and you are right... With limited mobility and range on a regular bike it was very limiting on the exercise you will get... couple hundred feet up a slight grade and you would be finished for the day... Ebike changed that for myself and my wife.
 
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Deliberately insulting.
Thank you David! No need to comment such posts though. All these unpleasant non-riders have been on my Ignore list for a long time :)

1664522515180.png

It was actually down to -3 C (27 F) on my morning 15 km ride.

Another thing in which I gathered experience was riding during cold weather. Now, I know what clothes to wear not to be wrapped like a clown :) Goggles are a must at low temperatures though!
 
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"You have bought a premium commuter e-bike. The bike geometry tells you the e-bike should be ridden in a forward position. What do you do? You think you need to ride in a more upright position; you raise your stem then buy curved handlebars (or Jones H-bars for instance); you are replacing the saddle with the widest and softest saddle you could find. You have changed the very nature of your e-bike. You believe the changes were necessary but surprisingly you still suffer pain in your butt, hand numbness or back aches. So you experiment more and more not to avail really."

I personally disagree with the above statement.

I changed my commuter bikes straight handlebar with a M-shaped handlebar.
I swapped out the original seat and post with a Selle Royal Drifter dual spring seat and a Thudbuster ST seat post.
And I LOVE the changes.

However, in the winter I put the original straight handlebar and slim MTB style seat and alloy seat post back on the bike.
Riding in snow and on unplowed roads is tricky so when that's happening I put my seat post down as low it goes so my feet can be flat on the ground for stability. It's also easier to move on and off the MTB style seat if I need to in a quick motion. Putting the straight handle bar back on is necessary so I can use my Bike Handlebar Mitts (Pogies). The bike as original is more nimble to ride in slippery winter conditions, so that's good.

I am comfortable on my bike with the forward position in winter
and the changed, laid back position, spring, summer and fall.
I bet you can hit a 3 wood 300 yards in the air ;)
 
Regarding the choice of pedals------when it comes to bike riding one of the most difficult physical degradations of Parkinson's Disease is the loss of complete neurological leg control. For example, some PD sufferers will drop to the ground while just walking when one or both legs give out. While I have not (yet) suffered from a "disappearing leg," I have found that when riding occasionally my left leg will suddenly "disappear." This usually occurs when that leg is on the up-stroke. The installation of clips (but not straps) alleviated the problem so long as I concentrate on applying up-pressure on the clips when pedaling. Physical exercise is well regarded by PD sufferers with bike riding being one of the best ways of dealing with it. eBikes are the way to go since sudden muscle weakness is dealt with by the PAS, something traditional bikes don't offer.
 
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A Noob

When I entered the Brave New World of e-bikes in late August 2019, I understood how the e-bike instantly changed my life. An ailing person who could hardly walk, I could suddenly zoom greater and greater distances for exercise, adventures, grocery shopping, and -- the most important of all -- for fun. Even before my ailments developed and manifested their presence, a traditional bike ride was painful for me: Countering headwind or climbing on a bike was no fun; I needed to stop every 5 km for rest. I had no incentive to be on the bike everyday! With the purchase of the first e-bike, I started riding faster, for longer distances, and as frequently as never before!

As a noob with some money, I started buying new e-bikes on the "N+1" principle to end up with 4 very different e-bikes. And, as a noob with some money, I was doing everything to improve what I bought! The number of experiments, new gear, equipment, "improvements" I've done to my e-bikes might fill a decently sized book! And I've been the noob for some three years. Until I changed. After documented 26,000+ km (16,200+ mi) ridden on e-bikes, I think I changed and reached a level of maturity.

Let me describe what I believe in now, and what experiments have brought valuable outcome.

N-1, Or Only Keep The E-Bikes You Actually Ride
If you own several e-bikes, some of them are just gathering the dust. If you choose to ride each of them, the maintenance costs start to mount to an unbearable level. After having determined my real needs, I just reduced the number of my e-bikes from four to just two. I keep a heavy, strong and fast full power e-bike that is priceless for long, demanding trips (especially in the mountains) and a lightweight low power e-bike that I ride on a daily basis, and which has proven to be appropriate for long and fast gravel group rides. Actually, I feel I still own one e-bike too many but it would be hard for me to get rid of either of them!

Use Your E-Bike As Intended By The Maker, Or Do Not Change The Nature Of Your Steed
Disclaimer: I'm only talking of good e-bikes from major bicycle brands.
The big bicycle brand has accumulated decades of experience, and makes e-bikes of a proven geometry and componentry for the intended purpose. "Do not change a bronco into a mule!"
  • You have bought a premium commuter e-bike. The bike geometry tells you the e-bike should be ridden in a forward position. What do you do? You think you need to ride in a more upright position; you raise your stem then buy curved handlebars (or Jones H-bars for instance); you are replacing the saddle with the widest and softest saddle you could find. You have changed the very nature of your e-bike. You believe the changes were necessary but surprisingly you still suffer pain in your butt, hand numbness or back aches. So you experiment more and more not to avail really.
  • You thought buying a full suspension e-MTB would make your city rides comfortable. Now, you have realised your electric mountain e-bike simply hates city riding! So you swap your off-road tyres for "all-rounders", raise the stem, trim your wide handlebars (ouch!), add a rack and maybe even a kick-stand. You have crippled your mountain-goat to become a cow...
  • You thought a road/gravel e-bike was cool. Now, you put a comfortable saddle, a rack/pannier, long fenders, and perhaps a kickstand on your e-bike. Making it even heavier and against its intended purpose.
The issue we all are facing is an universal e-bike does not exist. We are not capable to determine our real needs prior to the purchase, either.

The Stock Components Are Not Necessarily Hopeless
If everyone of us noobs could have just tried riding our first e-bikes without immediately modifying them... I managed to make many unnecessary replacements of stock components on my e-bikes. For instance, it took me almost 3 years to realize the stock Specialized Electrak 2.0 tyres on my Vado 5.0 actually were the best thing, and I should have not replaced them in the first place. Or, it took me more than a year to find out the stock Specialized Bridge Sport saddle on my Vado SL was actually a very good thing that I really didn't need to replace with another seat! To be honest, even the stock grips on my both e-bikes that I keep were quite OK! Why to replace anything just because it is "stock"?

The More I Ride, The More Lightweight I Appreciate
That's why I ride my heavy Vado less and less, giving the preference to Vado SL.

Tyre Inflation Pressure
It is true that increasing tyre pressure makes the e-bike roll easier. On the other hand, the tyres are the ultimate bike suspension, especially for dampening rapid road vibrations. Reducing the tyre inflation to the "sweet point" between the rolling resistance and ride comfort is something I could greatly recommend to anyone!

Extra Suspension, A Worthy Thing?
Oh yes. For most of good e-bikes ridden by the Forum members, a Kinekt 2.1 or RedShift Shock Stop suspension seat-post is certainly a valuable improvement for your rear. On the other hand, installing a suspension stem on an e-bike already equipped in any form of front suspension makes little sense. Any type of the front suspension is made to dampen slow vibration; it is the tyres that flatten the rapid vibration.

Saddle
There is no Saddle Holy Grail. If you have chosen riding in a more upright position, most of your body weight will inevitably rest on your butt. Expect back/spine aches. No comfort saddle can be as soft as an armchair if you need to be pedalling your e-bike. With the riding position more forward, you lighten up your ass. Surprisingly, many aches might have gone. Once you have moved your body position forward, you will notice a seemingly hard and narrow saddle might even become more comfortable, especially if you ride in chamois. A narrower saddle means no chafing on your thighs and axils.

Pedals
Very expensive bikes are delivered without pedals. In most of cases, even expensive e-bikes will be delivered with cheap unimpressive pedals. It is your choice what you do.
I do not want to start yet another holy war with the lovers of "clipless" (who actually clip in). Just want to say good wide platform pedals with traction pins are almost as good as clipless pedals/cleated shoes, and I often ride platform pedals just in sneakers. It is your choice though.

Handlebar grips
As I mentioned before, the stock grips can be in many cases excellent. I'm a great believer in the enhancement called SQlab Innerbarends, which I perceive as one of the greatest inventions for flat handlebars. Innerbarends let me lean forward without hand numbness, be myself more aerodynamic, have perfect access to brake levers and the shifter, and keep my arms closer still retaining a pretty wide handlebars. I spend almost my ride time in the Innerbarends now. Having the Ergon GP2 bar ends available too, I hardly use them now.

Rear-View Mirror, Daytime Lights, And The Helmet
I simply cannot ride without the rear-view mirror. Inexpensive Mirrycle is the type I've used on my all e-bikes. The glass part never broke in any of several Mirrycles I have owned. The secret of the proper Mirrycle set-up is to tighten all screws very strongly. The threaded parts are made of brass there; brass can stand very strong tightening, and you can hear it squeaking when you tighten the screws: it is the proper thing.

Many of EBR Forum members are bitching they cannot switch their daytime lights off. "See and Be Seen". It is for your own safety!

Wearing the helmet goes without saying.

I am glad that the ebike has changed your life for the better.

I agree with much of what you said. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find an off the shelf bike that fit my wants and needs.

I chose the Yamaha Cross Core partly because it didn’t have a real identity. It’s more or less a hybrid, similar to an early 90s mountain bike. Yamaha uses the same frame, wheels and motor on the Wabash gravel bike, Urban Rush and the Civante road bike, so I considered the Cross Core to be a blank canvas, (I wanted a good, class 1 flat bar gravel bike). It all worked out very well in my case and the complete bike is now 42 pounds, but it handles as if it were much lighter with improved brakes, gearing, tires and other enhancements. I didn’t really change the bikes character as much as I just helped it to reach its potential.
 
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