Thoughts and help on choosing my first ebike

[VFTEX]

Hi all, been researching e-bikes for a few weeks... here's the background
Im a senior, retired, good shape but not a bike rider. Just want to get out more and enjoy the breeze. Live in a gated community with lots of roads.. mostly flat.. no hills.. will probably ride it only on nice days and nothing else to do.. while money isn't an issue, riding on flat roads 20 times a year doesnt call for me to sell stock to buy a bike. In fact, I almost pulled the trigger on the $1,000 folding Jetson e-bike at Costco without even knowing anything about e-bikes. But I read the reviews and that stopped me cold. So thats a range I feel like spending but when I started looking at e-bikes, I realized I'll prob spend a few hundred more. I am not going to buy $400 bike on Amazon.. I want to get one that I can return it no problem if I dont like it.. and the dealer reputable, been around, etc. Class 2 capable because I know there are going to be days I dont want to pedal. I need fenders for sure, but dont need it to fold, (maybe I do but dont know it?). I have a garage to store it so I dont care too much about weight.. but what if I want to drive somewhere and bike in the future? Then I will have wished it folded and weighed less. This is why this is hard.

Here is what I came up with including the options I wanted such as fenders/seat, etc, Velotric Discover1(1100) or Nomad1(1300), Lectric Express(1150) or Express 750(1300), Ride1Up Turris(1050), Cafe Cruiser(1100), Aventon Soltera(1100)...

Each had their positives and negatives. Some had Torque Sensors, some had cadence... some had 1 yr warranty, or 2, or even 3(Velotric).. Some had 500W, others 750W, one 350W.. the ranges are 45-60 etc. Some had turn signals, Some had brake lights, the weight was 46-70lbs, One at fat tires, all had Shimano gears,

So my questions to the community is what options matter most to you? How would you stack them? For example, one vendor has 3 yr warranty included and fat tires, but the other for the same price has torque vs cadence sensors, 12 lbs lighter, but 1 yr warranty with narrower tires.. HELP! Are there other vendors to consider?

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

So my questions to the community is what options matter most to you? How would you stack them?

Welcome aboard!

1. First and foremost, see what's available locally, test ride before you buy, and buy from a reputable local bike shop willing and able to support both the mechanical and electrical systems.

2. Since you consider yourself in good shape and want a throttle, get an ebike like my first one with torque-sensing assist and a progressive on-demand thumb (not twist) throttle. The combo is a very versatile power delivery system. But some implementations are much better than others. Just one reason to test for yourself.

By progressive on-demand throttle, I mean one that can be layered onto any assist level at will in any amount desired, not just on-off. Not all throttles are like that, and chances are, the sales person won't know. Gotta test for yourself.

A friend has a torque-sensing Aventon Level.2 with that kind of throttle. Maybe more than you want to spend but a very good value with an extensive dealer and service network behind it. If for no other reason, test one if you can to have a comparison for other tests.

Addendum
3. You may have specific use-cases for a folder or fat-tire bike. If not, think twice about these options. Both increase weight, and fat tires generally come with high rolling resistance and handling issues. The increased resistance will cut into battery range.

 

[harryS]

If money isn't an issue, take a shot on anything, If you get the ebiking bug, you'll learn what you want and can buy it later, Also a senior. Ain't getting any younger,

If you like ebiking, you may want to install a hitch on your car and use a bike rack STuffing a 55lb folder in the car is not for seniors., That's an expense, especially if your car was too small.

 

[Mr. Coffee]

I'd suggest doing some research and renting three or four different e-bikes for a day and getting some actual experience.

Also there are some pretty merciless step functions in play as you go up in price on which bike you might purchase. Not just in terms of reliability and safety, but also in how much fun they can be. It can also be real tough to move down that cost curve once you've got a taste of what is further up it. Keep in mind that a $5000 bike that you'll ride every day is probably a much better deal than a $500 bike you ride once a month, or just once.

 

[VFTEX]

Welcome aboard!

1. First and foremost, see what's available locally, test ride before you buy, and buy from a reputable local bike shop willing and able to support both the mechanical and electrical systems.

2. Since you consider yourself in good shape and want a throttle, get an ebike like my first one with torque-sensing assist and a progressive on-demand thumb (not twist) throttle. The combo is a very versatile power delivery system. But some implementations are much better than others. Just one reason to test for yourself.

By progressive on-demand throttle, I mean one that can be layered onto any assist level at will in any amount desired, not just on-off. Not all throttles are like that, and chances are, the sales person won't know. Gotta test for yourself.

A friend has a torque-sensing Aventon Level.2 with that kind of throttle. Maybe more than you want to spend but a very good value with an extensive dealer and service network behind it. If for no other reason, test one if you can to have a comparison for other tests.

Thanks Jeremy, I read about the level2 (high grades on various reviews).. and Aventon dealer network.. My brother has an e-bike, but he bought it several years ago, spent about $1200 Ride1 up. Told me the support was terrible and does not recommend them. I'll look closer at the level2 and be sure to test ride locally if I can.. the "return" policies for just trying one out is very prohibitive.. some have 20% or several hundred $$ re-stocking fees.

 

[VFTEX]

Welcome aboard!

1. First and foremost, see what's available locally, test ride before you buy, and buy from a reputable local bike shop willing and able to support both the mechanical and electrical systems.

2. Since you consider yourself in good shape and want a throttle, get an ebike like my first one with torque-sensing assist and a progressive on-demand thumb (not twist) throttle. The combo is a very versatile power delivery system. But some implementations are much better than others. Just one reason to test for yourself.

By progressive on-demand throttle, I mean one that can be layered onto any assist level at will in any amount desired, not just on-off. Not all throttles are like that, and chances are, the sales person won't know. Gotta test for yourself.

A friend has a torque-sensing Aventon Level.2 with that kind of throttle. Maybe more than you want to spend but a very good value with an extensive dealer and service network behind it. If for no other reason, test one if you can to have a comparison for other tests.

Addendum
3. You may have specific use-cases for a folder or fat-tire bike. If not, think twice about these options. Both increase weight, and fat tires generally come with high rolling resistance and handling issues. The increased resistance will cut into battery range.

thanks for the addendum.. wondered about the fat tire consideration.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

Thanks Jeremy, I read about the level2 (high grades on various reviews).. and Aventon dealer network.. My brother has an e-bike, but he bought it several years ago, spent about $1200 Ride1 up. Told me the support was terrible and does not recommend them. I'll look closer at the level2 and be sure to test ride locally if I can.. the "return" policies for just trying one out is very prohibitive.. some have 20% or several hundred $$ re-stocking fees.

Good plan. So many reasons to avoid direct-to-consumer ebikes if you can.

Regarding fat tires: They certainly have their uses, and they do look cool. But they're by no means necessary for many offroad purposes.

Yesterday's low-tide beach ride in Oceanside, CA with my friend's white Level.2 at lower right. He's running 2.3" hybrid tires here, and I'm on 1.5" hybrids.

That's him riding ahead with our tracks in the foreground. So little sinkage that I rode the whole 3 miles with my motor off. It's all about picking your sand. If it had been loose and dry, 4" tires might not have been enough.

 

[Extreme1]

Another vote for test riding a few before you buy. My LBS takes your drivers license and lets you take a bike for a spin down the street. Doing that won’t give you a real feeling of what it’s like to really ride one, but it’s better than nothing and free.

Find a Specialized dealer and look at a Vado. The Vado has all the things you’re looking for, but it doesn’t fold. I’m sure you can find a good used one to keep the cost down. You’ll have to pedal it, but in Turbo mode, you’ll barely have to pedal.

 

[Mr. Coffee]

Some bike shops have demo days as well and those are a good opportunity to try out a bike.

 

[sc00ter]

Plus some bike shops do rentals as well. I'll never buy another DTC ebike without a extended test ride.

 

[VFTEX]

If money isn't an issue, take a shot on anything, If you get the ebiking bug, you'll learn what you want and can buy it later, Also a senior. Ain't getting any younger,

If you like ebiking, you may want to install a hitch on your car and use a bike rack STuffing a 55lb folder in the car is not for seniors., That's an expense, especially if your car was too small.

Im not too worried about my final pick Good point on the folder.. doubt I need it.. if I get that big a bug, I'd get a bike rack.

I'd suggest doing some research and renting three or four different e-bikes for a day and getting some actual experience.

Also there are some pretty merciless step functions in play as you go up in price on which bike you might purchase. Not just in terms of reliability and safety, but also in how much fun they can be. It can also be real tough to move down that cost curve once you've got a taste of what is further up it. Keep in mind that a $5000 bike that you'll ride every day is probably a much better deal than a $500 bike you ride once a month, or just once.

makes sense,,. I have learned over the years buying quality.,, but a $5k bike sitting in my garage isn’t like a Ferrari you can just look at and enjoy. But I get what you are saying.

 

[indianajo]

I liked your list post 1. I do not know any particular model, but many of the brands you listed have decent reputations here.
Two features important to me, step through frame, and 26" or bigger wheels. I lost the ability to lift the leg over the seat & rack in my mid sixties. I'm as strong as ever, but less flexible. Bigger wheels are more comfortable across potholes and ridges. When it rains or snows, or I am in a line of cars, I cannot spot the potholes. I don't like relying on suspension (which in the <$2000 category wears out quickly) and fat tires drag too much when the rain takes out the throttle or the battery runs down. 2.1" tires ride fine, and can run 45 psi if you don't have a lot of groceries and if you are not heavy.
I like pedaling without power as much as possible. Bosch and other mid-drive models (not Shimano steps, bafang brose) drag the motor with your feet when you do that. In the $1000 range you will mostly find geared hub drives, which do not drag the motor with your feet unpowered.
I'm a VietNam era Army vet, which means my knees were worn out by running in combat boots. Throttle is important to me. Most days I ride 80% unpowered. When I have twisted my knee, I want to get home without pedaling at all. Sorry Stefan. As I said above, rain can take out the throttle. Take a plastic bag & vegetable tie in the pannier with your poncho, lock, security device, and perhaps a tube and a few tools. Lyzene makes a good $58 pump.
In flat land 350 watts is okay. I have 77 short hills on my commute to summer camp and need 1000w. I have burned the winding in 500 and 750 watt motors trying to ride up 12% hills near the end with groceries & tools (330 lb gross).
I like racks that do not sway from side to side and rub the tire & fender. My rack is welded on. BTW fenders can usually be added later, along with the lights.
Happy shopping and later riding.

 

[VFTEX]

Another vote for test riding a few before you buy. My LBS takes your drivers license and lets you take a bike for a spin down the street. Doing that won’t give you a real feeling of what it’s like to really ride one, but it’s better than nothing and free.

Find a Specialized dealer and look at a Vado. The Vado has all the things you’re looking for, but it doesn’t fold. I’m sure you can find a good used one to keep the cost down. You’ll have to pedal it, but in Turbo mode, you’ll barely have to pedal.

… I know thats a good brand. will have to check it out.. What do you think of EBC? customized bikes.. looked interesting, but I can assemble a bike.. $250 delivery fee? No way! when I was a kid that’s all we did.. kids today have no clue. Insane to pay that much but i guess that’s the times.

I liked your list post 1. I do not know any particular model, but many of the brands you listed have decent reputations here.
Two features important to me, step through frame, and 26" or bigger wheels. I lost the ability to lift the leg over the seat & rack in my mid sixties. I'm as strong as ever, but less flexible. Bigger wheels are more comfortable across potholes and ridges. When it rains or snows, or I am in a line of cars, I cannot spot the potholes. I don't like relying on suspension (which in the <$2000 category wears out quickly) and fat tires drag too much when the rain takes out the throttle or the battery runs down. 2.1" tires ride fine, and can run 45 psi if you don't have a lot of groceries and if you are not heavy.
I like pedaling without power as much as possible. Bosch and other mid-drive models (not Shimano steps, bafang brose) drag the motor with your feet when you do that. In the $1000 range you will mostly find geared hub drives, which do not drag the motor with your feet unpowered.
I'm a VietNam era Army vet, which means my knees were worn out by running in combat boots. Throttle is important to me. Most days I ride 80% unpowered. When I have twisted my knee, I want to get home without pedaling at all. Sorry Stefan. As I said above, rain can take out the throttle. Take a plastic bag & vegetable tie in the pannier with your poncho, lock, security device, and perhaps a tube and a few tools. Lyzene makes a good $58 pump.
In flat land 350 watts is okay. I have 77 short hills on my commute to summer camp and need 1000w. I have burned the winding in 500 and 750 watt motors trying to ride up 12% hills near the end with groceries & tools (330 lb gross).
I like racks that do not sway from side to side and rub the tire & fender. My rack is welded on. BTW fenders can usually be added later, along with the lights.
Happy shopping and later riding.

thx indianajo. You have confirmed a few things i was leaning towards (26” regular tires, (2-3”), higher watts (750) and walk through.. a few spinal fusions and I’m tight also.. mostly flat but we do have some hills around… also, didn’t realize rain could take out a throttle so ill keep that in mind..

 

[VFTEX]

Good plan. So many reasons to avoid direct-to-consumer ebikes if you can.

Regarding fat tires: They certainly have their uses, and they do look cool. But they're by no means necessary for many offroad purposes.

View attachment 187047
Yesterday's low-tide beach ride in Oceanside, CA with my friend's white Level.2 at lower right. He's running 2.3" hybrid tires here, and I'm on 1.5" hybrids.

View attachment 187048
That's him riding ahead with our tracks in the foreground. So little sinkage that I rode the whole 3 miles with my motor off. It's all about picking your sand. If it had been loose and dry, 4" tires might not have been enough.

Meant to tell you nice pics! Jealous!