Swap wheels to smaller rim size?

[Rhconcepts]

I asked the company today if I could swap my wheels or buy the ones they now use on the 2.0 They might have some for sale down the rd but not right now. Has anyone taken the front and rear hub out and respoke them into a 2 or 3” rim like the 2.0? I feel like it would shave off some weight and I don’t care for the fat tires.
Also anyone know what a bike shop would charge for the labor on that?

 

[contraktor]

I'm not you, I wouldn't. But if it's what you want to do, I'm hearing $45-$70 labor to 'relace' a bicycle rim. I have purchased (from my local bike shop) a relaced Shimano rim for my American Bicycle Co. MTB in the recent past. It was $46. Take into account the hub motor, thicker spokes, and the need for that smaller wheel size (and I'm not sure any of this actually matters, although, as i'm sure some of it could), you're probably looking @ $75 or $100 on the high side. From a bike shop, I mean. Just an opinion man, consult the bike shop guy for a nailed-down price. Hope it gives you a little insight!

 

[Rhconcepts]

I'm not you, I wouldn't. But if it's what you want to do, I'm hearing $45-$70 labor to 'relace' a bicycle rim. I have purchased (from my local bike shop) a relaced Shimano rim for my American Bicycle Co. MTB in the recent past. It was $46. Take into account the hub motor, thicker spokes, and the need for that smaller wheel size (and I'm not sure any of this actually matters, although, I'm sure some of it could), you're probably looking @ $75 or $100 on the high side. From a bike shop, I mean. Just an opinion man, consult the bike shop guy for a nailed-down price. Hope it gives you a little insight!

Thanks, contraktor, I just feel like the 4" is overkill for riding on roads. If I knew the 2.0 was coming out with 3" wheels I would have waited for sure.

I would love to hear from anyone on what they think about this. Would you do it or not, if not why?

 

[myers830]

Doesn't the version 2 bike have a completely different fork (that's sized to the new 3" tires/wheels?). I doubt its just a matter of buying the new 3" tires and wheels. The rear is even more complicated because you now have a motor included in the equation. If the Lectric guys were truly looking forward they would have anticipated that the version 1 owners were going to want to scrap their 4" wheels and tires for the new 3" units...and design version 2 so that the parts required to pull this off would fit the version 1 bikes. Did they?

 

[contraktor]

Thanks, contraktor, I just feel like the 4" is overkill for riding on roads. If I knew the 2.0 was coming out with 3" wheels I would have waited for sure.

I would love to hear from anyone on what they think about this. Would you do it or not, if not why?

I know it's already been said, the 3" tires CAN do 27mi, & that's throttle only. NTM, probably get you to that 45mi mark in PAS1. Pretty cool to have the extra range!

 

[Rhconcepts]

Doesn't the version 2 bike have a completely different fork (that's sized to the new 3" tires/wheels?). I doubt its just a matter of buying the new 3" tires and wheels. The rear is even more complicated because you now have a motor included in the equation. If the Lectric guys were truly looking forward they would have anticipated that the version 1 owners were going to want to scrap their 4" wheels and tires for the new 3" units...and design version 2 so that the parts required to pull this off would fit the version 1 bikes. Did they?

When I called them they didn’t say anything that the parts from 2.0 wouldn’t fit 1.0. But if I have to buy new rims and take the huband motor out and have them respoked into the new rims I will if it’s not gonna cost me a fortune. They did mention that they might sell the 2.0 wheels for people with version one but they won’t have like a swap program but you are right the front wheel could have a smaller or even larger hub. Since the frame is the same I’m sure the back wheel is the same size

 

[contraktor]

When I called them they didn’t say anything that the parts from 2.0 wouldn’t fit 1.0. But if I have to buy new rims and take the huband motor out and have them respoked into the new rims I will if it’s not gonna cost me a fortune. They did mention that they might sell the 2.0 wheels for people with version one but they won’t have like a swap program but you are right the front wheel could have a smaller or even larger hub. Since the frame is the same I’m sure the back wheel is the same size

Hmmm, wonder what the rear id measurement is from dropout to dropout is on the 2.0. Would it be the same as the OGXP? I mean it would have to be, if they're using the same hub motors. All along I'd thought they'd redesigned the bike, there by implementing a 'skinnier' rear hub. It's all speculation for me. ANYWHO! Brass Tacks= If you are relacing said wheels, the only additional part you'd need (besides the stock wheel you would already have) is the new rim to accommodate the 20x3 tire. Probably not AS expensive as you're thinking. AliExpress/eBay that particular rim, use the axel, bearings, hub motor, spokes you've already got. Take a spoke wrench & uninstall the 'stock' outside rim. Now, once you have the new rim in, you can start installing spokes to the said outside rim. And there you are, & I'm just guessing, you'd only be into it maybe $15-$20 on the part. Tires is where your going to spend money, good thing the 20x3 variety aren't NEAR as expensive as the 20x4 from what I'm seeing! If you ever do, you should document it, so that others can see what you've done!

 

[okievision]

I would love to hear from anyone on what they think about this. Would you do it or not, if not why?

Initially, I too felt the 4 inch were overkill. Now that we've put some good miles on our bikes, I wouldn't change them.
Here's why for my wife and I. We do a lot of riding on sidewalks to get to where we can pick up bike trails or paths. As we're riding and meet a person walking, we always leave the pavement of the walk to go around the person walking. The 4 inch fat tires glide so well across grass, sand, gravel, and any other surface we have to use to avoid a potential issue with a walker. So 4 inch tires work very well depending on your riding style. Not long ago, we left a paved trail to go out on a river jetty for the view. It was solid sand and my wife didn't want to go at first. Once she did and realized how stable the 4 inch fatty's were on the sand, she wants more sand riding, lol. 3 inch tires would probably still provide stable off pavement riding too but with the 20 in diameter, not sure theres much performance difference where I would want to change.

 

[{tpc}]

Thank you for the description of the 4 inch tires and how they work, okievision. This is what actually drew me to the bike originally, and how I explained it to my wife in why we would want the 4 inch fat tires.

 

[RobK]

https://www.radpowerbikes.com/collections/replacement-parts/products/kenda-k-rad-20-x-3-3-tire best you can do without changing rims

 

[Stoneyrun]

Hmmm, wonder what the rear id measurement is from dropout to dropout is on the 2.0. Would it be the same as the OGXP? I mean it would have to be, if they're using the same hub motors. All along I'd thought they'd redesigned the bike, there by implementing a 'skinnier' rear hub. It's all speculation for me. ANYWHO! Brass Tacks= If you are relacing said wheels, the only additional part you'd need (besides the stock wheel you would already have) is the new rim to accommodate the 20x3 tire. Probably not AS expensive as you're thinking. AliExpress/eBay that particular rim, use the axel, bearings, hub motor, spokes you've already got. Take a spoke wrench & uninstall the 'stock' outside rim. Now, once you have the new rim in, you can start installing spokes to the said outside rim. And there you are, & I'm just guessing, you'd only be into it maybe $15-$20 on the part. Tires is where your going to spend money, good thing the 20x3 variety aren't NEAR as expensive as the 20x4 from what I'm seeing! If you ever do, you should document it, so that others can see what you've done!

Lacing a wheel is a bit more involved than tightening spokes. Rim needs to be "true".