Splice motor cable to controller.

James Nagy

New Member
Region
USA
I have a Juiced RCS with damaged cable from the controller to the motor. The bike would work but the display would lose connectivity. I repaired the cable soldering some broken wires. The display started working again for 2 months and then quit again. I purchased a 20 inch extension cable with the same connectors and cut one off to use to splice in on the cable I had repaired previously. Now when I power up the bike the display comes up normally now but have an error 8 indicating a HALL sensor issue. The connections seem solid so not sure why the error8. Any ideas on what could be the cause would be greatly appreciated.
 
Are you sure the color of the wire to pin_out location was identical as the stock cable? You may have swapped a pin or two if you just match wire color.
Always good to test this as there is no standard... Especially if the replacement cable is third party.
 
Are you sure the color of the wire to pin_out location was identical as the stock cable? You may have swapped a pin or two if you just match wire color.
Always good to test this as there is no standard... Especially if the replacement cable is third party.
That was my next thought. Like a dummy I didn't check the pin out on the thin HALL sensor wires but the 3 higher guage wires are the same as the stock cable. Will let you know the outcome.
 
I have a Juiced RCS with damaged cable from the controller to the motor. The bike would work but the display would lose connectivity. I repaired the cable soldering some broken wires. The display started working again for 2 months and then quit again. I purchased a 20 inch extension cable with the same connectors and cut one off to use to splice in on the cable I had repaired previously. Now when I power up the bike the display comes up normally now but have an error 8 indicating a HALL sensor issue. The connections seem solid so not sure why the error8. Any ideas on what could be the cause would be greatly appreciated.Tap Road
It is possible that the HALL sensor in the motor may have been damaged over time or during welding. You can use a multimeter to test it. Try it!
 
My meter has add on adapters with very thin probes... But what I've also done is strip some stranded wire and use a few to make an appropriate size probe. On male pins again you can take a thin stranded wire, push a thin pick in the center to create a female probe.
It seems your issue is with the wiring unless you have a coincidental hall sensor failure.
Perhaps replace the cable with a factory one?
Are you sure the display connector is without issue?
Do you have another display to test?
Have you contacted Lectric Ebikes who purchased much of Juiced assets?
 
My meter has add on adapters with very thin probes... But what I've also done is strip some stranded wire and use a few to make an appropriate size probe. On male pins again you can take a thin stranded wire, push a thin pick in the center to create a female probe.
It seems your issue is with the wiring unless you have a coincidental hall sensor failure.
Perhaps replace the cable with a factory one?
Are you sure the display connector is without issue?
Do you have another display to test?
Have you contacted Lectric Ebikes who purchased much of Juiced assets?
It's not the display. If you can reread my first post it explains the original problem. The bike was running before I spliced in the cable. Yes I contacted Lectric and also acouple others claiming to have controllers but none of them could help me. I am afraid I may end up with one of those 80lb paper weights.
 
It's not the display. If you can reread my first post it explains the original problem. The bike was running before I spliced in the cable. Yes I contacted Lectric and also acouple others claiming to have controllers but none of them could help me. I am afraid I may end up with one of those 80lb paper weights.
My thoughts on the display was perhaps it became damaged due to the wiring issue. If the wiring and display are working then you have a sensor or controller issue that decided to surface at the same time you were making your wiring repairs.
Not familiar with your particular bike/wiring.. Just offering general troubleshooting.
 
If it were me, I'd tear it all apart again and redo the wiring.

Don't solder anything at first, just check all your pins to verify the wiring. Try to see if you have continuity through the connectors, then twist/connect all the wires back together, and see if it works.
 
If it were me, I'd tear it all apart again and redo the wiring.

Don't solder anything at first, just check all your pins to verify the wiring. Try to see if you have continuity through the connectors, then twist/connect all the wires back together, and see if it works.
Well you can check continuity as is...
I'd also check for pin isolation and that none are shorted.
Working with the small connectors can be a pain in the ass... So again I'd take a moment to make up an appropriate probe so you're testing is accurate.
Having the problem for a while and making temporary fixes may have damaged something beyond the wiring. Displays in particular are known to fail for looking at them wrong.
 
Not quite related but whenever I am changing circuit board or messing with any electrical wiring I always take pictures so I can backup to the original wire placements.
My memory is good but it is short.
The shortest pencile is better than the longest memory.
 
Well you can check continuity as is...

I've checked the continuity through connectors by opening up the cable on both sides of the connector to expose each wire inside, then open up each wire.

Working with the small connectors can be a pain in the ass...

I found that old-school Bell telephone solid core copper wire was the perfect diameter to probe my connectors.

So again I'd take a moment to make up an appropriate probe so you're testing is accurate.

Using a probe that is too big can spread open the contacts so the connection no longer makes contact with the connector pins.



,.. Now when I power up the bike the display comes up normally now but have an error 8 indicating a HALL sensor issue.
An "open" or bad connection on a hall sensor wire can cause a HAL sensor error


The connections seem solid so not sure why the error8. Any ideas on what could be the cause would be greatly appreciated.

I'm thinking broken connection on a HAL sensor wire.

Having the problem for a while and making temporary fixes may have damaged something beyond the wiring.

I think the temporary fix broke, and just needs to be reconnected


Displays in particular are known to fail for looking at them wrong.

The display does seem to know what is wrong with itself ?
It's not receiving a signal from one of the hal sensors.
 
Not quite related but whenever I am changing circuit board or messing with any electrical wiring I always take pictures so I can backup to the original wire placements.
My memory is good but it is short.
The shortest pencile is better than the longest memory.
I concur...
I just gave that same advice yesterday on a troubleshooting issue that involved swapping wires around and one could easily become confused.
 
On the 6 pin TSDZ2 the tan wire and the purple wire are almost exactly the same color. You need to check in full sunlight.
 
Try terminating plenum rated Cat 5/6 cable that has translucent insulation while under a desk. I've done thousands.
Brown or is that orange? Blue or is that green?
The trick was to remember which was darker in full light.
 
So you have been there. I sold Mitel and got a trip to Whistler.
 
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