Speedlimiter - KT-LCD3

Kinda worked, reached 28-29, could anyone explain C1 to me?


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That's for setting up your pedal sensor/PAS sensor/cadence sensor.

It allows you to adjust for how many magnets are on your sensor, and whether it is forward or reverse order.

You don't want your bike to go when you pedal backwards, or when you bump your pedals forward a tiny bit.

If your PAS modes are working properly and your motor isn't activating accidentally, then it's probably set up correctly.

PS,..
Have you tried the Imitation Torque Control ?

It's AWESOME !!!

It's the next best thing to torque sensing.
 
View attachment 169517

That's for setting up your pedal sensor/PAS sensor/cadence sensor.

It allows you to adjust for how many magnets are on your sensor, and whether it is forward or reverse order.

You don't want your bike to go when you pedal backwards, or when you bump your pedals forward a tiny bit.

If your PAS modes are working properly and your motor isn't activating accidentally, then it's probably set up correctly.

PS,..
Have you tried the Imitation Torque Control ?

It's AWESOME !!!

It's the next best thing to torque sensing.
Appeciate the detailed reply - It works, as for Imitation Torque Control, no clue.
 
Appeciate the detailed reply - It works, as for Imitation Torque Control, no clue.

Appreciate the reply, the following are my settings:

P1 - 87
P2 - 1
P3 - 1
P4 - 1
P5 - 15
C1 - 07
C2 - 0
C3 - 5
C4 - 1
C5 - 10
C6 - 5
C7 - 0
C8 - 1
C9 - 0
C10 N/A
C11 - 0
C12 - 4
C13 - 0
C14 - 2
C15 -6



It looks like your imitation torque control is turned on,..



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Check your Watt meter at top speed and see if your getting constant full power or if the power is fluctuating trying to hold a steady speed.
Try it will a fully charged battery.
 
Check your Watt meter at top speed and see if your getting constant full power or if the power is fluctuating trying to hold a steady speed.
Try it will a fully charged battery.
It gives 500 at the start, keeps going down after. When at ~20 it goes to ~200 with PAS. My throttle is coming today so I'll see how it functions.
 
Just added my throttle, doesn't even work??

Try swapping the positive and negative on the throttle connector.
If you have SM connectors, you can remove the individual connector pins from the plastic pin holder.
There is a little tab on each pin that you press in with a needle to release it from the plastic holder.

Positive is usually red, negative black, and signal wire is white (or sometimes yellow).
 
Congratulations everybody, you all fix the bike over the internet. Astonishing!!!!
We need bike pic's. My bike on stand by for new brake pads.
 

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Congratulations everybody, you all fix the bike over the internet. Astonishing!!!!
We need bike pic's. My bike on stand by for new brake pads.
Diggin' the new Avatar Rome! I'm honored... :)
 
Glad you loved it.
I'm weaponize now. With a deadly hammer.
@syphon this thread is resolved your bike is fixed.
Show us pictures where you ride.
 
Any update?

Try changing your wheel size to something smaller.
If that doesn't work, and only changes the speedometer reading but not the actual speed, then try a factory reset and reenter the settings, specifically the smaller wheel size and P2=0.

I couldn't get my e-bike to go faster than 32 kph and also tried everything including changing the wheel size.
I could get the speedometer to read different speeds, but my actual speed would not go over ~34 kph.

This didn't make sense to me.
I could have bought the KT kit for an e-bike with 20" wheels, then I wouldn't be going 32 kph, or I could live in the US where the speed limit is 45 kph.

Does it have GPS or something to keep me from going over 32 kph?

The only thing I can think of is that I had originally entered a 29 inch wheel diameter (26" fat tire) and maybe that setting became locked after a certain amount of time or distance??

I don't know what's going on??

Soo,.. I just recently set my P2=0 and apparently got a few more kph out of it but I just have my wheel in the air and don't really know if a factory reset will change anything?

I won't be able to check my actual speed until spring when I can use GPS to check my actual speed against the speedometer reading.

Screenshot_20240117-085912_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg
 
Try changing your wheel size to something smaller.
If that doesn't work, and only changes the speedometer reading but not the actual speed, then try a factory reset and reenter the settings, specifically the smaller wheel size and P2=0.

I couldn't get my e-bike to go faster than 32 kph and also tried everything including changing the wheel size.
I could get the speedometer to read different speeds, but my actual speed would not go over ~34 kph.

This didn't make sense to me.
I could have bought the KT kit for an e-bike with 20" wheels, then I wouldn't be going 32 kph, or I could live in the US where the speed limit is 45 kph.

Does it have GPS or something to keep me from going over 32 kph?

The only thing I can think of is that I had originally entered a 29 inch wheel diameter (26" fat tire) and maybe that setting became locked after a certain amount of time or distance??

I don't know what's going on??

Soo,.. I just recently set my P2=0 and apparently got a few more kph out of it but I just have my wheel in the air and don't really know if a factory reset will change anything?

I won't be able to check my actual speed until spring when I can use GPS to check my actual speed against the speedometer reading.

View attachment 169838
I contacted the manufacturer about the motor issues, they said to bring it so I'll do so on Friday/Saturday.
 
I contacted the manufacturer about the motor issues, they said to bring it so I'll do so on Friday/Saturday.

I don't think that it's a motor issue.
E-bikes in Europe aren't allowed to go over 25 kph or over 250 Watts.

The guy that serviced your ebike is probably legally required to ensure that it won't go over 25 kph.

Your ebike was illegal when you first got it and it would power you up to 36 kph.


This is my old ebike. It's from Europe.
They had to flip the handlebars upside-down to get the throttle on the right hand side for the North American market, so the grip shift numbers are upside-down on the left.

IMG_20220912_162056.jpg


That bike WILL NOT go over 25 kph.
The power cuts out at 22 kph and regeneration kicks in at 25 kph to make DAMN Sure that it won't go over 25 kph.
 
I don't think that it's a motor issue.
E-bikes in Europe aren't allowed to go over 25 kph or over 250 Watts.

The guy that serviced your ebike is probably legally required to ensure that it won't go over 25 kph.

Your ebike was illegal when you first got it and it would power you up to 36 kph.


This is my old ebike. It's from Europe.
They had to flip the handlebars upside-down to get the throttle on the right hand side for the North American market, so the grip shift numbers are upside-down on the left.

View attachment 169840

That bike WILL NOT go over 25 kph.
The power cuts out at 22 kph and regeneration kicks in at 25 kph to make DAMN Sure that it won't go over 25 kph.
The motor issue I was referring to is when I bike normally, after some time at ~20 KPH the motor cuts, makes like a shredding noise, the speed shows at 40-60 and it like stalls. Then after a few seconds or braking completely it restores.
 
The motor issue I was referring to is when I bike normally, after some time at ~20 KPH the motor cuts, makes like a shredding noise, the speed shows at 40-60 and it like stalls. Then after a few seconds or braking completely it restores.

Ohh, OK.
That's different.

You might have smoked your motor going 36 kph with 500 Watts on a 250 Watt motor?
 
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