Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

[Jeremy McCreary]

I've never had a seat post stay put as well as this one has. Is that the upside of the wedge design?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I've never had a seat post stay put as well as this one has. Is that the upside of the wedge design?

Well, Jeremy, the conventional clamp in my big Vado holds equally well, and I'm not the most lightweight person

 

[BioWheel]

So who was the brilliant engineer at Specialized who thought that the loose-wedge clamping mechanism for the SL seat post was so much of an improvement over a simple clamp? Yes, it has a larger clamping surface and is less prone to slippage, but I had a few choice words for it today when I went to remove my ShockStop seat post from my old 5.0 and naturally dropped part of it down into the seat tube. Fortunately, it was not too difficult to retrieve and I needed to fashion a long hook anyway to pull the tail light wires back out so I could connect them to the post and seat from the new bike to complete the swap.

Never a job that doesn't take longer than what it mentally seems it should...

Did it too! Even though I could see that it might happen and promised myself I wouldn't drop it. Murphy brought his law reigning down on me. I've also learned to cover any sink drain when taking something apart nearby.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

@rochrunner, @Jeremy McCreary, @BioWheel :
While talking on the strange "wedge" design of the seat-post clamp, we all seem to have forgotten the most important rule!

Ye Goode Olde Specialized

Of course! Specialized has always to invent something non-standard that makes you scratch your head, or, worse, leave you in the dark after several years when a given part becomes unavailable

One of "best" stories were the thru-axles on my older version of Vado 5.0. It was only a single year when Specialized was making Vados with a rigid fork, and that was 2017. I bought the e-bike in 2019 and used it very hard with frequent transportation inside my car. To be able to transport my Vado, I had to remove the front wheel before any transport. As the consequence, the socket of the front thru-axle became worn. However, that very part was not made anymore!

Now, the spec was: 12x100 mm, thread size 1 mm. Socket size: Hex 5 mm. It was an absolutely specialized part! I might not be able to use the e-bike just because of a single specialized axle! Eventually, I could find a compatible The Robert Axle Project axle... But that's not the end!

After Specialized rebuilt my Vado 5.0 into Vado 6.0, the brand provided a new suspension fork, a new wheel, and a new axle. This time it was a 15x110 mm axle in the MTB Boost standard. The socket size was still hex 5 mm.
-------
What is in my Vado SL? The Road Boost axles with the hex 6 mm socket size. How odd. Why couldn't Specialized just use normal hubs and axle sizes as they use on their gravel bikes?!

Or, the tail light integration with the rear fender and rack... Or, the Vado SL non-EQ tail light where the wires go through an empty seat-post and are attached to the tail light mounted by a special bracket to a Specialized saddle...

Ye Goode Olde Specialized.

P.S. Karl, I was unsure what reaction to give to your latest post

 

[Chargeride]

In slightly connected news, just before my last ride I noticed the dropper was very stiff, so I undid the ring and pulled it out of the way, greased the post and then incorrectly I suppose dropped it down.
It jammed solid.
A bit of heaving got it back up but one of the slider pins was popped out and bent.
So I used pliers to pull it out, properly flattened it and pressed it back in.

All was well but Ive probably damaged something I guess.

Is all a bit fiddly, its hard to tell where they should go and where the plastic spacer should sit.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

As they say 'Some technology around and the man gets lost'
Well, I regret you are experiencing issues.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

Did it too! Even though I could see that it might happen and promised myself I wouldn't drop it. Murphy brought his law reigning down on me. I've also learned to cover any sink drain when taking something apart nearby.

My DIY efforts are also highly subject to...

Gumperson's Law: The least likely contingency will always occur at the most inopportune time.

And also to...

Gumperson's Corollary: Any attempt to circumvent Gumperson's Law will also be subject to Gumperson's Law.

Of course, Gumperson wasn't just talking about DIY. Example from 2 days ago: After years of flawless operation, the counter-spring on our garage door finally got so weak that the motor could no longer lift the heavy wooden door without tripping its thermal protection.

Now with such a slow process, the odds of the motor finally refusing to open the door on any given day are extremely small.

So naturally, the door finally gave up — totally out of the blue — when we were running late for an important doctor's appointment.

 

[rochrunner]

Switching from my 5.0 to the 4.0 has already revealed a couple things about the lower-end components used on the 4.0. Yesterday I installed the custom wheels that were built for the 5.0 onto the 4.0, which of course meant moving the discs and cassette from the OEM wheels onto the custom set. I've done this a few times before and, since there is always some slight difference due to tolerances, etc., it's usually necessary to slightly adjust the disc caliper position and tweak the derailleur cable a click or two.

It ended up taking a good bit longer than expected, although one should always expect the unexpected when doing anything like this. My usual technique for adjusting the caliper alignment almost worked, but still when I spun the wheel there was a very slight rub somewhere in the rotation, and it took quite a number of tries to get a totally clean, silent wheel rotation. The shifting problems were a bit more surprising, although maybe not considering the component mix. The 5.0 has a SRAM GX Eagle derailleur with a NX Eagle cassette, whereas the 4.0 has the NX derailleur paired with a cheap-looking Sunrace cassette. Smooth shifting was difficult to maintain since one behavior was telling me to tighten the cable but another required slackening it a bit. Anyway, I finally got it adjusted to my satisfaction, at least in the gears that I will be using almost all the time. I can see where these 1x drivetrains make it difficult due to the changing chainline angle, especially at the far ends of the gear range.

I can see that next winter's project might be a drivetrain upgrade. Going with the higher-level components of the 5.0 would probably be the easiest, as I'm not looking for any changes regarding gear ratios. @Stefan Mikes , what upgrade did you do on your original SL 4.0? Did you do the work yourself?

 

[Cycologist]

I just installed Pirelli Cinturato Gravel RH tires on my Turbo Vado 4.0. The original Pathfinder Sport tires were a little too narrow and not quite as aggressive as I would have liked for the terrain I ride on, which is mostly crushed limestone hardpack. The original Pathfinders are 38 mm while the Pirelli's are 45 mm. Not a huge difference, but it should allow me to run at a lower pressure to help absorb the rougher terrain and these Pirelli's have larger tread blocks on the sides which should help with cornering.

I did a lot of research and the Pirelli's kept showing up as a favorite in reviews. The only gripe was that they were difficult to seat and it's true. I didn't have much issue getting the front tire on, but the rear was a nightmare for some reason. I ended up accidentally putting a couple holes in the tube when trying to seat the tire and had to use a new tube. But, I finally got it on and it's holding air for the moment.

Pirelli has a wide selection of gravel tires, but the Gravel RH tires seemed like the best for my terrain. Now all I need is some nicer, warmer weather so I can test them out.

Anyone run Pirelli's on their bikes?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

@Stefan Mikes , what upgrade did you do on your original SL 4.0? Did you do the work yourself?

• Added a Mirrycle
• Replaced the grips with SQlab Innerbarends 410/402 and the integrated 710 grips size Small (136.8 mm). (If I wanted to keep the existing grip then SQlab Innerbarends 411 alone could be used)
• Replaced the stem with Redshift ShockStop 100 mm installed at -6 deg and pretty low on the steerer: to accommodate my long arms and give me a more forward position
  • Added Redshift ShockStop Computer Mount (Wahoo)
  • Added Redshift ShockStop Utility Mount. Together with a GoPro mount, it allowed me relocating the headlight in the front of cables
• Replaced the seat-post with a Redshift ShockStop suspension seat-post. Kept the stock saddle.
• Swapped the stock Shimano 10-speed drivetrain for the Shimano M5100 11-speed one (my brother had fished a new Jagwire shifter cable through the frame and installed the rest)
  • A RD-M5100 SGS (long cage) derailleur
  • A CS-M5100, 11-speed, 11-51T cassette
  • A SL-M5100 shifter, 11-speed, right, (non I-Spec)
• Installed a Garbaruk 38T, 104 BCD Round chainring
• Removed the front fender. Can install a temporary SKS Germany Speedrocker fender at any time
• Removed the rear fender, the integrated rear rack and the tail light (I cut and insulated the wires)
  • Use a rechargeable tail light on the seat-post
  • Can install an Ass Savers Win Wing 2 temporary fender or the rear SKS Germany Speedrocker when I need (depending on the tyre size)
  • Can install Ortlieb Quick Rack on demand
• Use either 38 or 42 mm gravel tyres in the warm season or 35 mm studded tyres in the winter.