Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

[waghmare]

Has anyone put tape to hold onto handlebar middle or close to middle spots? I tend to feel good holding hands could of inches away from stem/midpoint on handlebar all the times.

So far here are the hand spots:
- Default grips
- Bar ends GP2/3/4/5
- Innerbarends

 

[waghmare]

I think you're going to miss having more of a suspension. Remember, the FutureShock has only 20mm -- < 1 inch -- travel and the rear is solid. I tried something similar last week and quickly discovered the limits.

And I did miss suspension; mostly seatpost and a few times at the stem. However futureshock did wonders most of the times.

The route changed from road to gravel which wasn’t much noticeable except for speed and noise of those pesky gravels flying away from tires.

Lose accumulated gravel spots were a bit hard to maneuver safely without sliding especially downhill.

Gravel turned into small/medium rocks and I got worried. Mostly just slowing down helped and not much slip. But then rocks became large enough for me to just walk uphill.

Gravel turning into single track and bit of mud was smooth like butter on these 38c pathfinders with futureshock.

Twisting and turning inside Redmond watershed was tons of fun and I thoroughly enjoyed the Vado SL visibility and control of flatbars. And the best part was rolling hills with multiple ups and downs of 15-20% grade kept me pedaling all the times at 70-90 cadence range. Serves my purpose for getting Vado SL than Vado. I am still going back n forth with Creo due to drops.

Climbing up on gravel went well at 300ft in 0.3mile climb (20% grade) using turbo/sport and low gears. Torque sensor and gears to the rescue but climb was way more natural than hub motors.

Downhill was scary on gravel as I felt like falling off over handlebars. So walked down a portion of steep downhill descend on lose gravel.

Overall Vado SL gets 8 of 10 on this Thrilla in Woodenvilla single track ride today! Given its within a mile from house I will be doing this again

 

[BlackHand]

Glad you enjoyed it! Sounds like you went counterclockwise? Heart Attack Hill is a challenge either way though I think I'd rather go up it than down.

 

[rochrunner]

Downhill was scary on gravel as I felt like falling off over handlebars. So walked down a portion of steep downhill descend on lose gravel.

I don't blame you there. Uphills are easier since the worst is usually that you have to jump off and push if the rear tire can't get traction in the loose stuff, but downhill I often don't feel as in control as I'd like to be and braking the front tire can often make things worse.

 

[kahn]

Glad you enjoyed it! Sounds like you went counterclockwise? Heart Attack Hill is a challenge either way though I think I'd rather go up it than down.

I'll stick to the Sammamish Slough (slew) trail which already has too many bumps in its pavement.

 

[Rás Cnoic]

Has anyone put tape to hold onto handlebar middle or close to middle spots? I tend to feel good holding hands could of inches away from stem/midpoint on handlebar all the times.

So far here are the hand spots:
- Default grips
- Bar ends GP2/3/4/5
- Innerbarends

Not yet but thinking about it. Some padded tape I think between brakes and stem. Here's my current set up including my cheapo inner barends, very good for climbing, though far away from the brakes- not really an issue as I'm either climbing or on fast straight roads. Used to have this kind of homemade hoods set up when mountainbiking in the 80s/90s. Never liked the outer bar ends popular at the time as they had a nasty habit of hooking on branches and stretched the arms too wide. Coupled with the 43mm tyres it's become a pretty good go anywhere bike. Don't need suspension with the tyres and swept back bars, feels very comfy now..

 

[rochrunner]

Don't need suspension with the tyres and swept back bars, feels very comfy now..

Don't those swept back bars put you in a really upright position when using them? I prefer a forward lean partly so I don't have all my weight on the seat. I have enough trouble staying comfortable in that area as it is.

 

[waghmare]

The slight upright position of Vado gives an aggressive vibe. I had thought of Como but it seemed too relaxed to take on gravel/light mountain. However I do get pain in upper back / shoulders area so heading to LBS to do bike fit well using saddle position, reach and stem height/angle. Feel bit stretched and 20+ miles hands are sore.

 

[waghmare]

I'll stick to the Sammamish Slough (slew) trail which already has too many bumps in its pavement.

It’s way crowded now a days and then in the middle of that either fast ebike 30+ mph or a pack of racers go past me similar to how cars go past on roads.

Burke + Sammamish seems staple

Tolt pipeline is pretty clean but big hills one after the other.

Redmond powerline however is pretty rough. I still see dropbar gravel riders on powerline trail so felt okay to give it a try. Besides I can lift VadoSL easily in those tough places.

 

[Rás Cnoic]

Don't those swept back bars put you in a really upright position when using them? I prefer a forward lean partly so I don't have all my weight on the seat. I have enough trouble staying comfortable in that area as it is.

Upright yes, but I find that comfortable, leaning far forward -stretched out is not great for my back. And it’s not too upright, the bars are not full sweeps and the bike’s geometry is still pretty aggressive. The way I figure it I’m not racing anyone so I’ve no real need to be aero, apart from hills when I can lean forward with hands near stem or on the ‘hoods’.

My bum seems ok on the standard saddle. My non electric rigid mtb has fullly swept back bars and yes I had to change the saddle on that one for an wtb one with wider shape as more of my weight is on the saddle and the angle for my seat bone(s) is upright. On the SL I think despite the bars I’m still leaning forward, just not as much.

 

[Rás Cnoic]

I don't blame you there. Uphills are easier since the worst is usually that you have to jump off and push if the rear tire can't get traction in the loose stuff, but downhill I often don't feel as in control as I'd like to be and braking the front tire can often make things worse.

I think a dropper post would really help with off-road steep rocky descents. Or even an old fashioned quick release seat post. But the fancy concealed clamp rules that out.

 

[rochrunner]

The slight upright position of Vado gives an aggressive vibe. I had thought of Como but it seemed too relaxed to take on gravel/light mountain. However I do get pain in upper back / shoulders area so heading to LBS to do bike fit well using saddle position, reach and stem height/angle. Feel bit stretched and 20+ miles hands are sore.

Unfortunately, there are few stem options for the 5.0. The OEM stem on mine is 75mm @ 14deg and I recently found an 80mm@35deg stem that the stem calculator showed would raise the bars by 24mm and set them back 16mm, which sounded perfect. I installed it and found it to work well as far as bar position, but it was not usable in the end because the stack height was 42mm vs the OEM 40mm. On a FutureShock bike, you can only use a 40mm stack stem because the top of the stem has to be flush with the top of the FutureShock or else that special threaded top cap won't go on! IOW, the stem would work OK on a 4.0 but not the 5.0. Here's a photo of the installed stem (the top cap is just setting in place since the threads won't reach).

Also note that some sort of adapter is needed for mounting the headlight vs. the one that's built into the OEM stem. Stems can also be raised by adding spacers, but it looks like the bike came with the maximum of three 15mm shims already installed.

I was able to return the stem and managed to find an 80mm@30deg stem with a 40mm stack that doesn't change the position as much but might be enough for what I'm looking for. However, I'd like to hear what your bike shop tells you.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

@rochrunner: See this.

The SQlab 710 or 702 grips are integrated with with Innerbarends 410/402 to prevent people such as WIVado install the innerbarends in an unsafe position

Properly installed Innebarends ensure immediate and sure grip on the brake levers. The "hoods" distance is 42 cm there, as if it were a standard drop-bar.

 

[waghmare]

Unfortunately, there are few stem options for the 5.0. The OEM stem on mine is 75mm @ 14deg and I recently found an 80mm@35deg stem that the stem calculator showed would raise the bars by 24mm and set them back 16mm, which sounded perfect. I installed it and found it to work well as far as bar position, but it was not usable in the end because the stack height was 42mm vs the OEM 40mm. On a FutureShock bike, you can only use a 40mm stack stem because the top of the stem has to be flush with the top of the FutureShock or else that special threaded top cap won't go on! IOW, the stem would work OK on a 4.0 but not the 5.0. Here's a photo of the installed stem (the top cap is just setting in place since the threads won't reach).

View attachment 127170

Also note that some sort of adapter is needed for mounting the headlight vs. the one that's built into the OEM stem. Stems can also be raised by adding spacers, but it looks like the bike came with the maximum of three 15mm shims already installed.

I was able to return the stem and managed to find an 80mm@30deg stem with a 40mm stack that doesn't change the position as much but might be enough for what I'm looking for. However, I'd like to hear what your bike shop tells you.

I am interested in that adjustable or high angle stem for VadoSL5
Do you have a link?

 

[rochrunner]

I am interested in that adjustable or high angle stem for VadoSL5
Do you have a link?

This is the one I'm getting that has a compatible 40mm stack height. It comes in other lengths, but the 80mm was the best for me as far as the change in position is concerned.

 

[waghmare]

My TCU display (Vado SL 5.0 EQ) was updated today. All troublefree. I now appear to have a PIN/lock option which I didn't have before (or had never seen?). I think the other three changes are; 1) an indicator on the screen that a ride is being recorded, 2) an indication of the gear you're in if you have one of the fancy SRAM changers (doesn't apply to me) and 3) something to do with microtuning.

Can you elaborate on #2?
I have SRAM GX Eagle and wanted to see if there is any readout of gear.

 

[rochrunner]

Can you elaborate on #2?
I have SRAM GX Eagle and wanted to see if there is any readout of gear.

No, there's not. The "fancy SRAM changer" the OP was referring to is the SRAM wireless electronic AXS system that's found on the high-end Creo SLs and maybe some others, but not on the Vado line.

 

[waghmare]

And soon after Thrilla in Woodenvilla attempted a loop of Lake Washington after work. That went very well.
- Stock saddle seemed fine,
- cadence was good,
- little bit of pain in upper back middle so going to LBS for another bike fit especially to check if it’s reach or forward angle causing it.
- Hills were fun with turbo and granny gear to the rescue.
- Lights get obstructed by cables
- Lights don’t stay straight
- Front suspension seems adequate
- Need seatpost suspension
- Need innerbarends and tape to create few more hand positions as I kept changing them towards brake lever joint, on the bar and at times standing straight and holding bar with fingertips or hands in air

 

[waghmare]

Unfortunately, there are few stem options for the 5.0. The OEM stem on mine is 75mm @ 14deg and I recently found an 80mm@35deg stem that the stem calculator showed would raise the bars by 24mm and set them back 16mm, which sounded perfect. I installed it and found it to work well as far as bar position, but it was not usable in the end because the stack height was 42mm vs the OEM 40mm. On a FutureShock bike, you can only use a 40mm stack stem because the top of the stem has to be flush with the top of the FutureShock or else that special threaded top cap won't go on! IOW, the stem would work OK on a 4.0 but not the 5.0. Here's a photo of the installed stem (the top cap is just setting in place since the threads won't reach).

View attachment 127170

Also note that some sort of adapter is needed for mounting the headlight vs. the one that's built into the OEM stem. Stems can also be raised by adding spacers, but it looks like the bike came with the maximum of three 15mm shims already installed.

I was able to return the stem and managed to find an 80mm@30deg stem with a 40mm stack that doesn't change the position as much but might be enough for what I'm looking for. However, I'd like to hear what your bike shop tells you.

When you changed the stock stem to adjustable/angled stem what did you do for the headlight mount?
I am thinking of doing a 30–60-degree angle and want to find a place for the headlights.

 

[Igor M]

But just barely. I found that if I pump the tires up to 60 psi it does start to rub - probably against the seat stay or rack/fender bolt heads. I'm planning to remove the fenders for the summer - just not sure if/how I want to try to keep the rear light salvageable. Right now it seems disconnect the power and clean cut the wire will be the way to go. There's this thing called a Tail gator that includes an accelerometer to allow the (battery within the unit) rear light to function as a brake light as well.

This with the stop light is interesting to me. Vado 6.0 has it at the factory.
Is there a way to make the OEM light work on VADO SL?