Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

Bleeding should not be necessary. Changing the oil every few years is good PM, but not bleeding. Pad wear has so many variables. Cyclocross racers replace pads every other weekend. Touring types, every season. Occasional riders, maybe every other season. I don't think that you're doing anything wrong. I would ask your mechanic about the frequent bleeding. Were the levers soft? Were your hydraulic connections loosening up and letting air in? Or is it just "good practice"?
 
Bleeding should not be necessary. Changing the oil every few years is good PM, but not bleeding. Pad wear has so many variables. Cyclocross racers replace pads every other weekend. Touring types, every season. Occasional riders, maybe every other season. I don't think that you're doing anything wrong. I would ask your mechanic about the frequent bleeding. Were the levers soft? Were your hydraulic connections loosening up and letting air in? Or is it just "good practice"?
Thanks! Yes, in both instances, the lever very gradually went soft (frog in pot effect), but the service visit was finally triggered by one pad dragging on its rotor.

Thanks to the growing consensus about the abnormal bleeding frequency, I'm going to press hard on that issue.
 
Scraping front brake on my SL 1 had to be bled and repadded after some very heavy use in the last few days. Closing in on 1 year and 3,000 mi in pretty hilly terrain. Same happened to the much more used rear brake 5-6 months ago.

Q1. Is this normal?

Q2. Should I be pushing for more than bleeding and pad replacement while I'm still under warranty?

I trust my authorized Specialized mechanic, who routinely works on bikes costing 3 times as much — think Colnago, Pinarello, Factor as well as Specialized. He says it's normal, but it never hurts to check.

Q3. I tend to keep a pretty firm grip on one or both brakes at stops. Just a habit. Am I contributing to the problem?

Thanks!
I had a piston on one of my rear brakes that wasn't fully retracting. On one ride, I remove the brake pads because it happened during a ride and I was annoyed.

Ended up removing it all, cleaning/lubing the pistons and resetting them back in position. Something to think about, because it could be more than just fluid.
 
I had a piston on one of my rear brakes that wasn't fully retracting. On one ride, I remove the brake pads because it happened during a ride and I was annoyed.

Ended up removing it all, cleaning/lubing the pistons and resetting them back in position. Something to think about, because it could be more than just fluid.
Exactly what happened to both my brakes, rear first and now front. And yes, they did all that at the shop both times. (With no previous disc brake experience, not brave enough to do my own brake work in this hilly area.)
 
Not sure what your brake pads are but I would go with semi-metallic ones were I you. The only con of semi-metallic pads they can be squeaky (especially after it has rained; but "Seems it never rains in southern California")
The bike came with organic pads, but all the replacements have been semi-metallic.

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The only squealing I get is from time spent close to the water. Guessing it's the microspic water droplets and salt crystals the surf throws into the sea breeze.

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May not be visible right where you're standing, but you can often see the haze in a long view down the beach, especially on windy big-surf days.

The squeal's gone after a few minutes of riding. No sign of long-term corrosion from these frequent beach stops, but maybe I should rinse the brakes afterward, just to be safe.
 
Thanks! Yes, in both instances, the lever very gradually went soft (frog in pot effect), but the service visit was finally triggered by one pad dragging on its rotor.

Thanks to the growing consensus about the abnormal bleeding frequency, I'm going to press hard on that issue.
I’ve had a somewhat similar experience with my brakes this summer. I’d had to ride in a heavy rain several times and when breaking my brakes squealed loudly and often. in the days that followed my breaking efficiency markedly declined. I checked the pads and the rear pads were very glazed. In addition, the lever was squishy.

I sanded the pads so their grip improved but after the deglazing, the rear brake was still squishy. I was concerned since I’d had them bled the previous year And didn’t really want to have it done again. Coincidentally, I saw a video about doing a lever bleed. I was intrigued and resolved to check it out but not to go the my LBS as the labor costs would be prohibitive. I bought an Amazon bleeding kit and tried the lever bleed.

After a short ride around my home the brakes were much better. The lever bleed worked and only cost me $15. Longer ride coming in the next few days. It will be interesting to see how well it actually worked.
 
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