Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

Plenty of room. I hacked into my rear view camera to be able to turn it on whenever I want via a switch and when making a couple of sharpish turns I had plenty of room. I guess if the trailer was 90 degrees the bike rack might hit the trailer (like the winch), but if that happens, then I already f'ed something up.
I used a similar setup for years with our mech bikes and my Zodiac. To keep the bikes away from the trailer winch I added the HF Hitch Extender. Worked well.
 
I used a similar setup for years with our mech bikes and my Zodiac. To keep the bikes away from the trailer winch I added the HF Hitch Extender. Worked well.

I thought of an extender for the trailer... but my wiring and safety cables are at the stretched to pretty much the max like this, so I am going to live with it and hope there are no 89 degree curves. ha.
 
I thought of an extender for the trailer... but my wiring and safety cables are at the stretched to pretty much the max like this, so I am going to live with it and hope there are no 89 degree curves. ha.
I did need to use wiring and safety chain extenders with the hitch extender.
 
Assuming you have the TCD display controller and have linked the latest Mission Control app to your Vado you can check for firmware updates in the app by selecting DIAGNOSE from the app's home screen. Scroll down to the bottom of the screen and select DEVICE UPDATES. That screen will list the firmware (FW) versions installed for your battery, motor, and display. If everything is up to date it will have a green message to that effect at the bottom of the screen.

My app reports that my Vado 5 FW is up to date with the following versions;

Battery: 7.3.4
Motor : 7.1.1
Display: 12.4.0

thank you
 
Okay, thanks TS25 and Stefan. I see 35mm of travel on their website. Wish I had one to do a comparison with the Thudbuster.
Marcela, I've never ridden a Thudbuster but so many users are happy with it. If you don't have a particular reason for improvement, why to change? It is not Kinekt is something magical. Just a well designed piece of hardware. I can bet Thudbuster is an equal. Yes, I hear you about the elastomer. Certainly steel is far more durable. What if you wouldn't be satisfied with a Kinekt?
 
Okay, thanks TS25 and Stefan. I see 35mm of travel on their website. Wish I had one to do a comparison with the Thudbuster.
Any help here?

Edit.
I now see that they didn’t actually test the long travel Thudbuster.
 
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Marcela, I've never ridden a Thudbuster but so many users are happy with it. If you don't have a particular reason for improvement, why to change? It is not Kinekt is something magical. Just a well designed piece of hardware. I can bet Thudbuster is an equal. Yes, I hear you about the elastomer. Certainly steel is far more durable. What if you wouldn't be satisfied with a Kinekt?
Ha. Not being satisfied with the Kinekt is exactly why I'd like to compare. Your logic is the same as mine.

My lower back has been on the fritz lately. For whatever reason, none specific defined at this time. I do wonder if it is because of the movement of the thudbuster, in compression it moves down and back. The down would be fine, the back could have the effect of stretching the spine, especially if the muscles get tired. It is on the longer rides that my back begins to bother me.

I've never had this type problem before. I have a Brooks saddle out there with the springs, I think I'll use that for a while and see if there is a difference. Anyway, a spring is a spring right? Anything is better than a sprung back.
 
...the movement of the thudbuster, in compression it moves down and back. The down would be fine, the back could have the effect of stretching the spine, especially if the muscles get tired.

And that's the advantage of the Kinekt, no or at least only little movement front-back in compression work.

Another reported negative point of the Thudbusters is that it doesn't work the same at lower temperatures. And the elastomers have more wear. Maybe you need to exchange the elastomer.

Isn't there a revised Thudbuster model out now in the market?
 
And that's the advantage of the Kinekt, no or at least only little movement front-back in compression work.

Another reported negative point of the Thudbusters is that it doesn't work the same at lower temperatures. And the elastomers have more wear. Maybe you need to exchange the elastomer.

Isn't there a revised Thudbuster model out now in the market?
The Kinekt articulates the same. The arms are not as long and there is not as much movement. Negative, positive, they're just differences in design and operation.

I just installed the oem seatpost with the spring seat. Forgot how much the Thudbuster moves the seat back. Will go on a ride today and determine if this is the culprit. In the little riding so far it feels better.
 
Can't imagine anything positive in moving front-back on the seat whilst riding a bicycle.
At least this isn't my preferred riding style, be it with or without a suspension. :)
Making the point I don’t have to judge good or bad. The ills of the prevalent thought system.

Also just surpassed the 1000 mile mark. No issues, problems, or anything to deride.

I have noticed my miles ridden lately might have crept up, seems the same ride I make shows more miles than what used to show.

Wonder if this is in conjunction with the latest update, and if an update can change the wheel diameter.

My wheel diameter for the Vado 5.0 is showing 86.22. Anybody else report the same or difference?
 
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Mine was set at 86.22 at delivery, had dealer set it to the correct 89.29 yesterday (2268mm), I see not difference in anything.
Curious as to what, if anything, the offset was, did, created, did not do, or otherwise.
 
Doing a little math. 86.22 vs. 86.29, the difference in tire revolutions per mile is 734.86 vs. 734.26 respectively. Don't think that amounts to a hill of beans.

My imagination must have been playing on my thoughts of different distance readings, couldn't have been my memory:).
 
The Electrak 2.0 (29x2") wheel circumference in my Vado is 2550 mm (100.3 in). It fits the GPS precisely. That is exactly the same as a 27.5" x 2.6" wheel of my Giant Trance E+ but the wheel circumference is very wrongly set in my Giant e-bike.
 
The Electrak 2.0 (29x2") wheel circumference in my Vado is 2550 mm (100.3 in). It fits the GPS precisely. That is exactly the same as a 27.5" x 2.6" wheel of my Giant Trance E+ but the wheel circumference is very wrongly set in my Giant e-bike.
Are you sure it’s 2550?
That would be more like a 32” than a 29”.
 
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Wheel circumference is of course a function of the rim diameter, the tire size, and thread design. Measuring your specific combo is the most reliable approach, but there are a couple of references I use;

Schwalbe Tire Circumference Table This table lists the circumference of a 47-622 tire as 2250mm. I use this for my Vado with the OEM Trigger Sport of new Schwalbe Marathon GT Tour tires as the tread designs are not aggressive for either tire. They are both 47-622 tires.

Ride With GPS Wheel Circumference Setting This table suggests 2224mm for 44-622 tires and 2293mm for 50-622 tires. This would extrapolate to 2258.5mm for a 47-622 tire, in good agreement with the Schwalbe chart.
 
I went out and measured the oem tire on my Vado 5.0 and pretty close to 28.5 dia. (wonder if that changes with psi and load). Multiplied by 3.1416 = 89.54" circumference, so the 86.22 might be off a little.

2250mm would be 88.5" circumference.
 
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I went out and measured the oem tire on my Vado 5.0 and pretty close to 28.5 dia. (wonder if that changes with psi and load). Multiplied by 3.1416 = 89.54" circumference, so the 86.22 might be off a little.
To get a more accurate measurement it's recommended to put a chalk mark on the tire sidewall. Rotate the tire until this chalk mark is at the pavement. Make a chalk mark on the pavement that lines up with the mark on the tire sidewall then sitting on the bike roll forward until the tire chalk mark is again at the pavement. Mark this point and measure the distance between the 2 pavement marks.

You can also take a fabric/flexible tape and wrap it around the tire to get a pretty good measurement. This approach ignores the flattening of the tire with rider weight but does take into account irregularities in the tread, etc .
 
Pulled out the Garmin GPS. My 86.22 is within .1 to exact at low teens, in the mid 20 mph's it is within .5 mph or the neighborhood. Seems the spread increases as speed increases, but still pretty close.
 
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