Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

I didn't have any issue with brakes making noise until I was riding away from the lbs and heard the loud shrieking. They had my bike 4 days only to create another problem for me. No shrieking or noise when I brought it to them.
Some types of pads need to be bedded in when new to prevent squealing. The organic pads standard on the Vado are generally OK without being bedded in. Do you know what type of pads they installed? If they're any of the metallic types they'll need to be bedded in to keep the noise down. These pads costs more so I can't see your LBS just throwing them without mentioning it but it would be good to ask.
 
He put these on. Worked perfect. Not a sound. After lbs cleaning almost 2 months later a loud howling noise. He cut down the noise and sprayed something on the rotor with the wheel off and sanded down the brake pads. I'm going back tomorrow to see what they do. If I'm not satisfied I'll email and call their main shop. I never seen this mechanic before. The main mechanics I knew and trusted quit.
 

Attachments

  • 20200504_154531~2.jpg
    20200504_154531~2.jpg
    159.6 KB · Views: 401
He put these on. Worked perfect. Not a sound. After lbs cleaning almost 2 months later a loud howling noise. He cut down the noise and sprayed something on the rotor with the wheel off and sanded down the brake pads. I'm going back tomorrow to see what they do. If I'm not satisfied I'll email and call their main shop. I never seen this mechanic before. The main mechanics I knew and trusted quit.
The resin pads they installed should be fine. It sounds like they were until after a cleaning. The rotor they installed, the RT56, is rated for resin pads only, but should be OK with the pads they installed. I would note that my Vado was equipped with more expensive RT76 rotors which are rated for resin or metallic pads. What rotors did your bike have as original equipment?
 
The resin pads they installed should be fine. It sounds like they were until after a cleaning. The rotor they installed, the RT56, is rated for resin pads only, but should be OK with the pads they installed. I would note that my Vado was equipped with more expensive RT76 rotors which are rated for resin or metallic pads. What rotors did your bike have as original equipment?
I have no idea. I ruined them due to ignorance. However, after replacing all was well until the cleaning. I think the person who cleaned the front was careless or in a hurry or both. How do you test ride the bike and not hear that loud sound. He was test riding but only applying the back brake until I caught it. He was quick to apologize after the jig was up and anxious to fix. I think he was hoping I wouldn't notice. His remedy helped but no where near like they were before cleaning. Silent. Strange thing the back brake is fine. Silent.
 
@Kam1936 and @Nxkharra please engage the grey clutch (move from the red to the blue position) if you want to have better rides. The Shadow clutch prevents the chain against bouncing. Disengage for the wheel replacement.
1588645495865.png
 
@Kam1936 and @Nxkharra please engage the grey clutch (move from the red to the blue position) if you want to have better rides. The Shadow clutch prevents the chain against bouncing. Disengage for the wheel replacement.
View attachment 51554
@Stefan Mikes thanks. I just checked mine. The blue position (shown in your picture) in my case is the disengaged position. It is to be used for taking the wheel off only as it releases the derailleur for more giving. At the blue position the chain rattles and hits the chain stay tube.
I was always instructed to keep it engaged which is the red position in your picture.
Please let’s clarify.
is yours different or am I confused?
 
May 4, 2020 1:16:44 PM - test

- Movement time: 47:05
- Total miles: 11.83 mi (▲ 2.0 mi | ▼ 0.9 mi | = 8.9 mi)
- Average speed: 15.1 mph
- Total ascent: +511 ft
- Battery consumed: 29% (171Wh)
- Average consumption per MI: 16.83 Wh/mi
- Percentage of average assistance: 52.7%
- Wh ride: 215.3Wh
- Biker: 20.6% (44.3Wh)
- Battery: 79.4% (171Wh)

------------------------------------------------------

FULL STATISTICS:

Bike parameters:
Advanced user - 20/40/80 PP 40/80/100 ACC 2% Shuttle 0%

Percentage of average assistance: 52.7%
- ECO: 20.0%
- TRAIL: 40.0%
- TURBO: 80.0%
Manual assistance changes: 2
- TRAIL: 1
- TURBO: 1

Date time:
- Start: May 4, 2020 1:16:44 PM
- End: May 4, 2020 2:07:47 PM
- Total time: 0:51:02

Movement time: 47:05
- ECO: 22:33 (47.9%)
- TRAIL: 00:01 (0.0%)
- TURBO: 24:31 (52.1%)

Movement time: ▲ 0:09:00 | ▼ 0:03:34 | = 0:34:31
- ECO: ▲ 0:02:30 | ▼ 0:02:36 | = 0:17:27
- TURBO: ▲ 0:06:30 | ▼ 0:00:58 | = 0:17:03

Total miles: 11.83 mi
- ECO: 4.73 mi (40.0%)
- TRAIL: 0.00 mi (0.0%)
- TURBO: 7.09 mi (60.0%)

Total miles: ▲ 2.0 mi | ▼ 0.9 mi | = 8.9 mi
- ECO: ▲ 0.4 mi | ▼ 0.6 mi | = 3.7 mi
- TRAIL: ▲ 0.0 mi | ▼ 0.0 mi | = 0.0 mi
- TURBO: ▲ 1.5 mi | ▼ 0.3 mi | = 5.2 mi

Total miles with assistance: 10.16/11.83 mi (85%)
- ECO: 3.78/4.73 mi (79%)
- TRAIL: 0.00/0.00 mi (100%)
- TURBO: 6.37/7.09 mi (89%)

Battery:
- Start: 99% (585Wh)
- End: 70% (414Wh)
- Consumed: 29% (171Wh)
- ECO: 5.2% (30Wh)
- TRAIL: 0.0% (0Wh)
- TURBO: 23.8% (140Wh)

Average consumption per MI: 16.83 Wh/mi
- ECO: 8.08 Wh/mi
- TRAIL: 4.46 Wh/mi
- TURBO: 22.04 Wh/mi

Range: 24 mi (▲ 1238 ft)
- ECO: 51 mi
- TURBO: 18 mi (▲ 1221 ft)

Battery temperature:
- Min: 80°F
- Max: 98°F
- ∅ : 88°F

Motor temperature:
- Min: 96°F
- Max: 150°F
- ∅ : 123°F

Average speed: 15.1 mph
- ECO: 12.6 mph
- TURBO: 17.4 mph

Average speed: ▲ 13.2 mph | ▼ 15.7 mph | = 15.5 mph
- ECO: ▲ 10.3 mph | ▼ 14.3 mph | = 12.7 mph
- TURBO: ▲ 14.3 mph | ▼ 19.6 mph | = 18.4 mph

Maximum speed: 26.7 mph
- ECO: 20.0 mph (13:26:04 - mi 1.68)
- TURBO: 26.7 mph (13:44:13 - mi 5.28)

Average cadence: 61 rpm
- ECO: 53 rpm
- TURBO: 67 rpm

Maximum cadence: 100 rpm
- ECO: 78 rpm (13:25:16 - mi 1.51)
- TURBO: 100 rpm (14:02:48 - mi 10.80)

Kcal consumed: 173 Kcal
- ECO: 62 Kcal
- TURBO: 111 Kcal

Average Biker Power: 65 Watt
- ECO: 51 Watt
- TURBO: 77 Watt

Maximum biker power: 237 Watt
- ECO: 210 Watt (13:19:20 - mi 0.17)
- TURBO: 237 Watt (14:02:40 - mi 10.77)

Average Motor Power: 255 Watt
- ECO: 98 Watt
- TURBO: 385 Watt

Maximum motor power: 772 Watt
- ECO: 315 Watt (13:19:20 - mi 0.17)
- TURBO: 772 Watt (14:02:38 - mi 10.76)

Total Wh biker: 44.3 Wh
- ECO: 15.7 Wh (35.6%)
- TURBO: 28.5 Wh (64.4%)

Total Wh motor: 167.0 Wh
- ECO: 29.8 Wh (17.9%)
- TURBO: 137.1 Wh (82.1%)

Maximum altitude: 1266 ft
Minimum altitude: 944 ft

Total ascent: +511 ft
- ECO: +97 ft (19.0%)
- TURBO: +414 ft (81.0%)

Total descent: -326 ft
- ECO: -193 ft (59.3%)
- TURBO: -132 ft (40.7%)

Uphill altitude gain per hour: 3411.4 ft/h
- TURBO: 3825.8 ft/h

Downhill altitude gain per hour: 5498.1 ft/h
- ECO: 4475.8 ft/h
- TURBO: 8247.8 ft/h

Maximum slope: 8.8%
- ECO: 5.1% (13:26:35 - mi 1.81)
- TURBO: 8.8% (14:06:31 - mi 11.81)

Minimum slope: -6.0%
- ECO: -6.0% (13:20:35 - mi 0.44)
- TURBO: -4.6% (13:51:47 - mi 7.63)

A lighter note: I'm loving BLEvo!! The stats average mph and distance is on point. My ride back from lbs. I read some negative things about BLEvo and I have to say this app is killing Mission Control. No comparison. I even purchased the handle bar phone holder and man, I love it! There are visual and verbal stats to occupy you on your ride. You can also get them in less then 5 minute intervals. I played around with the settings. Wow! Sometimes it's hard to tell if I'm ascending or descending but BLEvo clears it right up. Tells me spot on my exact elevation as I'm riding. BLEvo is the real deal! Caution. If you have Android 10 I don't recommend. Seems it is not ready for the new OS yet. Android 9 is flawless. The time of my ride was 30 seconds off. I keep forgetting to pause the ride while I'm moving with my phone. Other than that. I think it's very accurate. I set my wheel size according to MC 88.7 is close as I can get. Imperial not metric. Compare if you will. 😎
 

Attachments

  • 20200504_193804.jpg
    20200504_193804.jpg
    270.7 KB · Views: 315
  • 20200504_193724.jpg
    20200504_193724.jpg
    278.3 KB · Views: 321
  • 20200504_193846.jpg
    20200504_193846.jpg
    254.1 KB · Views: 302
  • 20200504_193825.jpg
    20200504_193825.jpg
    325.6 KB · Views: 302
I have no idea. I ruined them due to ignorance. However, after replacing all was well until the cleaning. I think the person who cleaned the front was careless or in a hurry or both. How do you test ride the bike and not hear that loud sound. He was test riding but only applying the back brake until I caught it. He was quick to apologize after the jig was up and anxious to fix. I think he was hoping I wouldn't notice. His remedy helped but no where near like they were before cleaning. Silent. Strange thing the back brake is fine. Silent.
You could check your original rear rotor for the model. If it's an RT56, then the tech replaced like with like. If not, there's another discussion topic with your LBS.
 
You could check your original rear rotor for the model. If it's an RT56, then the tech replaced like with like. If not, there's another discussion topic with your LBS.
Thank you sir. I'm over it. I've moved on to greener pastures. There was so much good about today that I'm focusing on now. BLEvo!! Killer app. Phone mount to handlebar, perfect. Stats, on point!. Max speed, average speed, distance, visual and verbal real time, I'm impressed!. I'll see what's up with my lbs tomorrow. All good.
 
I stumbled on another cool feature in BLEvo audio stats. Projected range adjust to input elevation and level of assistance. You get real time audio info of your projected range as you ride.
 
No worries. We are all clear now.
Not certain but to my experience when clutch is disengaged gear Chang is smoother.
but chain rattles if the road is bumpy. So to be sure I always ride with clutch engaged.

My experience too. Changing gears is smoother when the clutch is disengaged, i.e. in the front position (blue arrow in @Stefan Mikes picture). I leave it in that position most of the time. Riding on rough/bumpy terrain it's best to engage/close the clutch. But not all the time.
 
He put these on. Worked perfect. Not a sound. After lbs cleaning almost 2 months later a loud howling noise.

Its time to get hold of that customer

beat the customer.JPG


and beat him so he won't do it again. :D

The resin pads they installed should be fine. It sounds like they were until after a cleaning. The rotor they installed, the RT56, is rated for resin pads only, but should be OK with the pads they installed. I would note that my Vado was equipped with more expensive RT76 rotors which are rated for resin or metallic pads. What rotors did your bike have as original equipment?

I agree with that. My BR-MT500 brake has the RT56 rotor and it's good value for money in that combination. Installing a RT66 rotor instead would have left the choice between resin or (sinter-)metal pads which you do not have as RT56 is resinpad use only.
But I doubt that Specialized has put this RT56 (or RT66) rotor OEM on any Vado 5.0 class3 bike combined with BR-M8000 caliper, and nor would I. It's OK but it could be better.

Rotor cleaning should be done with alcohol only as @Sierratim advised.
Never to use automotive brake cleaner!
 
Last edited:
@TS25 "Its time to get hold of that customer..." 🤣😂. Seriously, I know nothing. That's why I depend on @Stefan Mikes and @TS25 to put me up on these things? Where's the do and don't videos or tutorials for dummies like me. Man you guys let me down on that one. 🤔 I fault my Turbo Vado mentors for not putting me up on this stuff.😁 Still, I learned my costly lesson only to have a professional dummy repeat a similar performance. 😂 Seriously?!
 
Its time to get hold of that customer

View attachment 51576

and beat him so he won't do it again. :D



I agree with that. My BR-MT500 brake has the RT56 rotor and it's good value for money in that combination. Installing a RT66 rotor instead would have left the choice between resin or (sinter-)metal pads which you do not have as RT56 is resinpad use only.
But I doubt that Specialized has put this RT56 (or RT66) rotor OEM on any Vado 5.0 class3 bike combined with BR-M8000 caliper, and nor would I. It's OK but it could be better.

Rotor cleaning should be done with alcohol only as @Sierratim advised.
Never to use automotive brake cleaner!
👌. I'm sure he didn't use automotive cleaner in a bike shop. To a great extent I'm at the mercy of my lbs. I rely on their professionalism to fix things properly when I have my Vado serviced. There's some bad blood between myself and the local shop for sure because I went over their head to get my display upgraded from the BLOK. Also, I had to wrestle with them to put the original wheels back on there that they swapped from the Turbo Vado 3. I was riding around with 10 cogs for about 600 miles until I realized there was supposed to be 11 on my Vado 🤔 They corrected it but, shouldn't they know this from the beginning? The owner made them fix everything. I went from 28 spokes front and rear to 32 spokes front and rear DT Swiss. At least that's what I believe them to be. For certain there's 32 spokes now on each wheel. Wheels, Cogs and new display were fixed at no cost to me. I don't know anything about bikes but I know how to read and count. The lbs also initially charged me $5000 for my bike claiming it was a 2020 Vado. I caught that too. They ended up refunding me $750 plus 9.5% sales tax. They offered me a new 2020 Vado but I opted for the 2019 Vado that I had already at $4250. It's been a roller coaster ride with my lbs. I'd like to think that so far I'm winning. Who knows? I only know what they tell me until I find out differently.
 
Back