Single Speed Hub Motor Conversion?

Jimmy666

Active Member
Been thinking about doing this for some time and I almost bought a Rad Mission last year but pulled the trigger on another bike instead due to shipping issues. Looking back it seems like the Mission is a little underpowered for my needs.
I have an idea in my head about making a better version of that model Diy style with a Trek Fx1 disc with at least a 750w geared rear hub motor. I am shooting for about 25mph and as simple of an install as possible.
Suggestions are much appreciated.
 
Totally doable with even a smallish geared hub motor as long as you have the Amp controller that puts out the proper amount times the volts of the battery. For instance a 36v system on a 20A controller is close @ 720w. However you may want to upgrade to a 48v system @ 20A which is 960w but will operate more efficiently @ 750w.

If single speed you will need like a 48/11 in order to pedal effectively at 25mph but that will be very hard going if not using assist at lower speeds. Otherwise you will be riding the throttle and using wh's like crazy to maintain that speed and figure on about 30wh/mile usage. Which can lead to a big and heavy battery.

Gears on even eBikes make them more efficient and still like bicycles. If you want a 25mph two wheeler maybe a moped would be better.
 
Been thinking about doing this for some time and I almost bought a Rad Mission last year but pulled the trigger on another bike instead due to shipping issues. Looking back it seems like the Mission is a little underpowered for my needs.
I have an idea in my head about making a better version of that model Diy style with a Trek Fx1 disc with at least a 750w geared rear hub motor. I am shooting for about 25mph and as simple of an install as possible.
Suggestions are much appreciated.
A rear hub motor installation is easy. But they cannot do sustained climbs and changing a rear flat is a huge pain. A 350W mid-drive will outrun and outlast a 750 hub. Also weight distribution is centered and you are less likely to break spokes.
 
Totally doable with even a smallish geared hub motor as long as you have the Amp controller that puts out the proper amount times the volts of the battery. For instance a 36v system on a 20A controller is close @ 720w. However you may want to upgrade to a 48v system @ 20A which is 960w but will operate more efficiently @ 750w.

If single speed you will need like a 48/11 in order to pedal effectively at 25mph but that will be very hard going if not using assist at lower speeds. Otherwise you will be riding the throttle and using wh's like crazy to maintain that speed and figure on about 30wh/mile usage. Which can lead to a big and heavy battery.

Gears on even eBikes make them more efficient and still like bicycles. If you want a 25mph two wheeler maybe a moped would be better.
Defiantly thinking of a 48v system and maybe a 52/16. The 25mph is just a top speed and I would like an average of 18 or so.
 
A rear hub motor installation is easy. But they cannot do sustained climbs and changing a rear flat is a huge pain. A 350W mid-drive will outrun and outlast a 750 hub. Also weight distribution is centered and you are less likely to break spokes.
I have thought about that also. I am looking for a second bike as a low maintenance back up. Your builds are sexy by the way.
 
Thanks. This is the messy and quick way to install a mid-drive with a torque sensor. It is in Chinese. Sorry. I do not do it this way but it is a staring place to get what is involved at a minimum. Removing the bottom bracket is the right of passage. It is a big deal the first time only. That requires a BB socket. $11. But it is so worth the extra effort. When you invest yourself, you love your bike all the more. The secondary securing bolt needs to be longer and stronger for your bike than the one that comes with the kit. It will sheer by the second ride. I do not install throttles, large displays, and speed sensors. There is a secret compartment for hiding extra wires behind the chainring, it's where they emerge from the motor housing.
 
My first eBike in 2015 was a Sondors Fat with a single speed. It was a stone. Climbing any hill at all made you get up on the pedals. The #1 mod to that bike was adding gears.
 
I recently took a single speed Clunker, coaster brake regular bike and installed a seven speed Nexus hub, coaster brake with a mid-drive motor. I ran all of the wires through frame to help keep it clean.
 
I'm still waiting on one part to convert my 36v 500w tsdz2 to coaster brake version for this bike.
1637601474062.png
It isn't a good quality bike but I bought it when I was 13. Me and a couple friends rode over 100 miles to an amusement park, spent an entire day there then rode home. I slept under a picnic table at a local park a couple nights and only had enough money for entrance fees at the amusement park. I'm sort of attached to the bike for sentimental reasons. It started as a 27" drop bar 10 speed but several years ago I put a 3 speed coaster hub on it. Gearing allowed for pretty good climbing even with the 48t chainring but it'll do better with the tsdz2 42t chainring. A 3 speed hub should be low maintenance and might be a good choice rather than a hub motor with a single rear cog.
 
Last edited:
I'm still waiting on one part to convert my 36v 500w tsdz2 to coaster brake version for this bike.
View attachment 107590
It isn't a good quality bike but I bought it when I was 13. Me and a couple friends rode over 100 miles to an amusement park, spent an entire day there then rode home. I slept under a picnic table at a local park a couple nights and only had enough money for entrance fees at the amusement park. I'm sort of attached to the bike for sentimental reasons. It started as a 27" drop bar 10 speed but several years ago I put a 3 speed coaster hub on it. Gearing allowed for pretty good climbing even with the 48t chainring but it'll do better with the tsdz2 42t chainring. A 3 speed hub should be low maintenance and might be a good choice rather than a hub motor with a single rear cog.
I am crazy for my three speed with coaster brake. That bike is just so much fun. It has ended up being my go to bike for around town. It has a 42 to 16 and is comfortable at 24MPH on the high-end. It is 36/350W. The half-link kicks butt. I am about to jump on it now, over my Specialized to pickup a couple of boxes of housings.
1637607303164.jpeg
 
So no hub motor love huh?
My wife rides a bike with a front geared hub motor and I have a bike with a rear geared hub motor. My wife rides hers all of the time but I haven't ridden mine in many months. Nothing wrong with it and it is fun and capable but it is just never the bike I choose to ride because I prefer the bikes with mid drive torque sensing assist.
 
@Jimmy666, I made this one electric this week with a mid-drive. Steven Gravy, is wild for it. Check the color of the rims. And note the wires and connectors. Movie stars and Royalty don't have bikes like this. But you can.
 

Attachments

  • R181.JPG
    R181.JPG
    720.8 KB · Views: 367
  • R182.JPG
    R182.JPG
    277.8 KB · Views: 326
  • R183.JPG
    R183.JPG
    442 KB · Views: 298
  • R184.jpg
    R184.jpg
    50.5 KB · Views: 292
  • R185.jpg
    R185.jpg
    201.9 KB · Views: 328
So no hub motor love huh?
I ride a front hub motor converted cargo bike. I pedal myself most of the time but the 60th to 80th hills, the steepest, I use the assist heavily. I carry 60 lb supplies out the uphill leg. I like that a geared hub motor doesn't drag power off. Also when the rain shorts out the throttle, about once a year, I don't have to call a tow truck. I just pedal to destination & use a hair dryer. With the motor on the front the bike has the 3x8 speeds it came with, from 1:1 to 4.7:1 ratios. I've worn out one hub motor ($221), burnt another one out in the rain ($740) that had the pins too close together. I'm on the 3rd motor ($39) in ~8000 miles. No waiting for parts, I've had a spare in the garage since the 2nd year. Making new mounts for different controllers is most of the 2 or 3 afternoons it takes to convert from one to the other.
I had a rear DD motor for a few months, but it wouldn't let me have more than 7 speeds on its rear freewheel. I could never find one in stock that went from 32 to 11 teeth. Best I could get was 28 to 14. Wasn't low enough to pedal 330 lb gross up 15% grade without assist, and wasn't high enough to assist the motor over 18 mph. Besides the front shifter wore out and would only select 2 of the 3 front speeds from the 18th month on. I didn't figure that out until the 3rd year, then the exact replacement shifter wasn't available. I ended up buying a shifter that pulled up instead of down and had to spend a couple of days making a converter block to relocate the cable. The DD motor used vast amounts of watt hours lugging up hills, it really wasn't competent at that. The DD motor also dragged power off like being in 2 speeds higher than I really was. The hub motor I liked the best was a Mac12t, but I can't buy a replacement. The $740 one I bought from Luna had a harness suitable for the ASI controller it came with, and the pins were too close together to withstand the rain. Water burnt a pin into the harness, making both motor & controller unusable. New motor is a bafang 500 w, wimpy but cheap since it was a uber rental fleet takeoff.
Your goal of 25 mph is not within the realm of an electric bicycle, not for any distance. You need a gasoline scooter for that. 25 peak is achievable, but it burns up the watthours very fast. Exception, head down flat back road bikes orbea & cannondale will allow 25 mph if the rider puts in most of the effort. Those motors are only 250 w. Most stores will not sell even a 48 v hub motor anymore, much less a 52. The geared hubs will burn a winding if you try to ride it up 1000' in an hour, and most purchasers in CA, OR, WA, bought the bike just for that purpose. The big US seller of geared hubs, ebikeling.com no longer carries the 48 v ones only 36. My 48 v ebikeling motor was fine at my speeds, since we have rolling hills in S. Indiana, not mountains. I wore out the gears on the ebikeling one in ~4500 miles.
Happy shopping & riding.
 
Last edited:
So a Tsdz2 with the 42 up front and a 16 in the rear would work? I am not tring to climb mountains just a solid commuter for urban/suburban type riding.
 
So a Tsdz2 with the 42 up front and a 16 in the rear would work? I am not tring to climb mountains just a solid commuter for urban/suburban type riding.
Yes. But you are going to want at least a three speed in the rear. Take a look at Nexus three-speed and five-speed hubs. Shimano has eBike specific five-speed IGH, internally geared hubs. One big advantage of mid-drives it that the motor is multiplied by the gears.
 
I am crazy for my three speed with coaster brake. That bike is just so much fun. It has ended up being my go to bike for around town. It has a 42 to 16 and is comfortable at 24MPH on the high-end. It is 36/350W. The half-link kicks butt. I am about to jump on it now, over my Specialized to pickup a couple of boxes of housings.
I did a front 1000w DD dual Grin torque arms on my Trek Pure 3 spd coaster. My hauler. I bought a BBS01 in 2014 and was largely clueless. Forcing me to source another new bike to run the BBS01. BTW both BBS01(A no critical repair parts available) are still running like champs. Now I'm thinking maybe I'll eat my words and try the same route. I REALLY like the coaster brake. Much more than any other rear brake. My Marin frame build is a one speed with a 10T MAC. Another Grin controller so I can use my 36, 48 and 52V batteries on the same bike.

BTW Always a pleasure watching your posts for great builds!
 
I did a front 1000w DD dual Grin torque arms on my Trek Pure 3 spd coaster. My hauler. I bought a BBS01 in 2014 and was largely clueless. Forcing me to source another new bike to run the BBS01. BTW both BBS01(A no critical repair parts available) are still running like champs. Now I'm thinking maybe I'll eat my words and try the same route. I REALLY like the coaster brake. Much more than any other rear brake. My Marin frame build is a one speed with a 10T MAC. Another Grin controller so I can use my 36, 48 and 52V batteries on the same bike.

BTW Always a pleasure watching your posts for great builds!
Thank you. Especially coming from you. I just got back from a ride. Santa came to town on a tugboat. A guy wants a silver motor so I need to get on that next. I am using high-temp engine paint. And I am also using the trick of a chainring standing in for a chain guard. Don't tell anyone that I use visual tricks like that. ;) A three speed is going out today, I hope, and a single speed tandem coaster brake beach cruiser is coming in for a three-speed coaster electric conversion. He wants to use it to beer garden hop with a lady friend without getting busted driving a car. Bikes are a different as riders.
 

Attachments

  • Centurian1.JPG
    Centurian1.JPG
    351.3 KB · Views: 182
Thank you. Especially coming from you.
Nah! If I were smart I'd be rich. If I grow up I wanna be like HarryS, the kindest, gentlest, most helpful, and one of most well rounded kit builders. Unlike myself, post TIA, he's got all his braincells.
 
Yes. But you are going to want at least a three speed in the rear. Take a look at Nexus three-speed and five-speed hubs. Shimano has eBike specific five-speed IGH, internally geared hubs. One big advantage of mid-drives it that the motor is multiplied by the gears.
How do those hubs stand up to the elements? I commute so on hot and cold days the bike would be locked up outside for 10 hours at a time. I have read that those hubs are prone to leaks in hot weather.
 
Back