Simple Trek/Bosch battery strategy

Dallant

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
With our three Trek RIB ebikes our battery strategy is a simple one. I wanted all three of our Treks to be adjusted to allow any of our 4 batteries to fit just in case we have any issues in the future.
We have found that our Rail 5 and our Allant+7 Lowstep can share batteries straight out of the box. The Allant+7 high step, having had a bit of trouble getting the original battery to release, was adjusted, possibly a hair too far. This didn’t allow the other batteries to work with it. With the arrival of the new Bosch 625wh battery, I’ve now had the Trek cover installed and our Trek tech adjust the highstep and all 4 batteries to fit each ebike. One spare for a long tour or to be there just in case of a problem. Simple.
 
With our three Trek RIB ebikes our battery strategy is a simple one. I wanted all three of our Treks to be adjusted to allow any of our 4 batteries to fit just in case we have any issues in the future.
We have found that our Rail 5 and our Allant+7 Lowstep can share batteries straight out of the box. The Allant+7 high step, having had a bit of trouble getting the original battery to release, was adjusted, possibly a hair too far. This didn’t allow the other batteries to work with it. With the arrival of the new Bosch 625wh battery, I’ve now had the Trek cover installed and our Trek tech adjust the highstep and all 4 batteries to fit each ebike. One spare for a long tour or to be there just in case of a problem. Simple.
@Dallant, sorry I know this thread is old but it's still a relevant question: isn't the 625wh battery only compatible with the allant 8 and 9? I know that you had the technician adjust the bikes, but I thought the 625wh battery wouldn't fit in the allant+7/allant +7S models?

That's one of the reasons I decided on the 2nd battery as the 625 wasn't available- at least that's what I thought was the case. I thought they were too long for the frame. (I should mention I have the staggard frame so that could be why, possibly). Thanks
 
@Dallant, sorry I know this thread is old but it's still a relevant question: isn't the 625wh battery only compatible with the allant 8 and 9? I know that you had the technician adjust the bikes, but I thought the 625wh battery wouldn't fit in the allant+7/allant +7S models?

That's one of the reasons I decided on the 2nd battery as the 625 wasn't available- at least that's what I thought was the case. I thought they were too long for the frame. (I should mention I have the staggard frame so that could be why, possibly). Thanks
To the best of my knowledge, the 625 is perfectly compatible with all the Allant+7 models and my Rail 5. I think the only Trek ebike made presently that is not compatible is the Domane models but I’m not sure.
The 500 is shorter but has a 4-5” spacer to make it the size it needs to be to fit in the RIB cavity.
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Thanks @Dallant , good information! I think in hindsight I would've just asked to upgrade to the 625wh battery from the 500wh powertube. I opted for the range extender since the power speed motor doesn't have as much range on it as the other power series motors. I like the range extender but it does add like 7 or 8 pounds to the bike which is already pretty heavy. At least I can get good range on it though, in case I ever need it (plus I can always take the 2nd battery off if i know it'll be a short trip). So far im loving the Allant!
 
Thanks @Dallant , good information! I think in hindsight I would've just asked to upgrade to the 625wh battery from the 500wh powertube. I opted for the range extender since the power speed motor doesn't have as much range on it as the other power series motors. I like the range extender but it does add like 7 or 8 pounds to the bike which is already pretty heavy. At least I can get good range on it though, in case I ever need it (plus I can always take the 2nd battery off if i know it'll be a short trip). So far im loving the Allant!
The 625 is a clearly heavier battery than the PowerTube 500 so I would guess it’s closer to the same weight as the Range Booster. I’d guess you won’t need that second battery very often but YMMV.
 
The Allant+7 high step, having had a bit of trouble getting the original battery to release, was adjusted, possibly a hair too far.
Are you saying that the you had trouble getting the original battery out and they were able to adjust it to work better? I have had trouble getting my battery into the frame and being able to remove the key on my Allant+ 7s and have to usually try several times to get the battery to sit and get my key out, but I figured that was just normal - I didn't know that it was possible to adjust the locking mechanism and/or battery to make it work better.
 
Are you saying that the you had trouble getting the original battery out and they were able to adjust it to work better? I have had trouble getting my battery into the frame and being able to remove the key on my Allant+ 7s and have to usually try several times to get the battery to sit and get my key out, but I figured that was just normal - I didn't know that it was possible to adjust the locking mechanism and/or battery to make it work better.
Yes. It’s better for the battery to be stuck in than to fall out, of course. I never had any problem getting the battery in. It only took my Trek guy an hour to get the battery out and make it work perfectly after that.
As for the key, I had a similar issue with the key to my Rail 5. I took a wire wheel to it to smooth out the rough edges and that made it work smoother.
 
Yes. It’s better for the battery to be stuck in than to fall out, of course. I never had any problem getting the battery in. It only took my Trek guy an hour to get the battery out and make it work perfectly after that.
As for the key, I had a similar issue with the key to my Rail 5. I took a wire wheel to it to smooth out the rough edges and that made it work smoother.
Thanks for the reply - it doesn't seem to be the key itself as I can get it in, turn it and get it out just fine if there is no battery present. It's something about the way the battery sits on the latch that is preventing it from allowing me to get the key out. I figured it was normal, but it sounds like there may be some adjustments that can be made.
 
Thanks for the reply - it doesn't seem to be the key itself as I can get it in, turn it and get it out just fine if there is no battery present. It's something about the way the battery sits on the latch that is preventing it from allowing me to get the key out. I figured it was normal, but it sounds like there may be some adjustments that can be made.
Hmm... now that I think about it, after using the key - I have to remove the battery in order to turn the key again and remove it. I think that's what you're saying you have to do as well, right?

I can't just turn the key and remove it before taking out the battery
 
Hmm... now that I think about it, after using the key - I have to remove the battery in order to turn the key again and remove it. I think that's what you're saying you have to do as well, right?

I can't just turn the key and remove it before taking out the battery
The issue I have is that when I go to put the battery into the frame I must insert the key and turn it in order to get the battery to set. Then, after the battery sets, in order to remove the key I need to turn it back to the position it was in when inserted into the lock in the first place. I am able to turn the key back to that position (or close to it) and the battery will not fall out of the frame, but I am unable to remove the key. In order to remove the key, I usually have to turn the key back, remove the battery and start the process over again until I can remove the key with the battery in the frame.

I am assuming the issue is that when I turn the key back, it is moving the bolt to the locked position and it is holding the battery in place, but it is not turning enough to release the key. The bolt and battery are likely not aligning properly so the bolt cannot fully engage.
 
The issue I have is that when I go to put the battery into the frame I must insert the key and turn it in order to get the battery to set. Then, after the battery sets, in order to remove the key I need to turn it back to the position it was in when inserted into the lock in the first place. I am able to turn the key back to that position (or close to it) and the battery will not fall out of the frame, but I am unable to remove the key. In order to remove the key, I usually have to turn the key back, remove the battery and start the process over again until I can remove the key with the battery in the frame.

I am assuming the issue is that when I turn the key back, it is moving the bolt to the locked position and it is holding the battery in place, but it is not turning enough to release the key. The bolt and battery are likely not aligning properly so the bolt cannot fully engage.
Hmm, seems to be the same as mine up until the end where you can’t remove the key. I’d call your lbs or take it in for an adjustment.
 
I have similar experiences with my RIB batteries. Can’t get the key out and have to start the process over again. Not sure why, but the last 3 or 4 times the battery has gone in and the key comes out as designed. So, there must be a right and wrong way, although nothing appears to influence the lucky outcome.
 
I have similar experiences with my RIB batteries. Can’t get the key out and have to start the process over again. Not sure why, but the last 3 or 4 times the battery has gone in and the key comes out as designed. So, there must be a right and wrong way, although nothing appears to influence the lucky outcome.
I’ve found a gentle hand works for me, especially since I have 4 batteries that will fit in 3 ebikes.👍
 
The issue I have is that when I go to put the battery into the frame I must insert the key and turn it in order to get the battery to set. Then, after the battery sets, in order to remove the key I need to turn it back to the position it was in when inserted into the lock in the first place. I am able to turn the key back to that position (or close to it) and the battery will not fall out of the frame, but I am unable to remove the key. In order to remove the key, I usually have to turn the key back, remove the battery and start the process over again until I can remove the key with the battery in the frame.

I am assuming the issue is that when I turn the key back, it is moving the bolt to the locked position and it is holding the battery in place, but it is not turning enough to release the key. The bolt and battery are likely not aligning properly so the bolt cannot fully engage.
If you like to fix problems by yourself see attachement.
 

Attachments

  • Trek Allant_Battery Alignment-TK20_Dealer_Service_Manual_EN.pdf
    3.2 MB · Views: 522
Dallant, I have copied your battery strategy. We purchased matching Allant +8S stagger frames (Large for me and Medium for the wife) which came with 625 WH batteries.

But we had first ordered Powerfly 9’s with 625 WH batteries.

I thought a lot about the battery bike strategy including the clever Bosch Booster (500 WH) optional feature.

It turned out the range of the Allant with 625 WH exceeds any ride I can do at about 110 miles in ECO at 12-14 mph average speed. So I don’t need the clever Boost battery.

Now that we received our Powerflys, we have four (4) identical 625 WH batteries that are swappable between all four (4) bikes.

I think Trek’s frame-battery-motor compatibility between diverse products is exceptionally customer friendly and probably a smart business strategy. Win-Win.

I know I am deeply ($$$) into Trek and will be keeping my nine year old car for a long time, Lord willing. But pretty much having the time of my life. Tim
 
My wife and I have a pair of Verve+3 with Powertube 500 batteries. I can swap batteries between bikes but the batteries don’t swap that great. I had to pry one out once. As a rule we don’t need to swap them.

Ive also had problems getting the keys out. Sometimes the battery won’t quite seat 100% and I have to force the battery in a little bit to get the key out. We have also had one battery fall out once and come partly loose. I’ve just gotten to the point I keep a small bungee wrapped around the battery to make sure they don’t fall out. I have taken them in to be adjusted but still less than perfect.
 
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