I think what is and is not too loud is very subjective, and the OP should try to test ride as many of the different motor options they can before making a decision. With that said, although the E8000 is not known for being the quietest, I have never felt that the noise from mine was so extreme that I needed to turn it off. It should also be noted that different bike frame designs can transmit noise more than others. Again, a test ride is always a good idea before making a purchase.What I like the least about the E8000, by far, is the noise. It is loud in any setting, so much so that I find myself turning it off whenever possible, which I actually don't mind because I'd like to condition myself. Today I was riding uphill on a windy road with beautiful scenery, no cars around, and the motor was ruining the mood. So I shut it off.
I think what is and is not too loud is very subjective, and the OP should try to test ride as many of the different motor options they can before making a decision. With that said, although the E8000 is not known for being the quietest, I have never felt that the noise from mine was so extreme that I needed to turn it off. It should also be noted that different bike frame designs can transmit noise more than others. Again, a test ride is always a good idea before making a purchase.
My girlfriend has a Trek Verve + with the Bosch Active Line motor. It is incredibly quiet, but it also puts out considerably less power.Agreed. Also, I should have given the caveat that I am notoriously and irritatingly noise-sensitive. Noises that other people don't hear often bother me a lot. I may be getting an e-bike for my wife soon, and I'm eager to compare the noise level of whatever she ends up getting.
I agree that the wiring is surprisingly nice. I did not know that the ports are functionally equivalent—very nice!
Good point about the battery display. It is a 5-segment display on mine. I think the stunlocker app gives a percentage.
You just need to ease up a little on the pedals when shifting. This should be done on non ebikes as well. It has not been an issue for me. My bike has over 2,500 miles, with no driveline issues.Thanks all... I should have mentioned my use will be mtbing so the climbing is the main concern. The programming sounds very useful. Have heard the motor not cutting out during shifting is hard on the components (chain, gears) so I'd be thinking about that when shifting and might be more of a concern for mtb?!
Specialized e-bikes have three assist levels, too.I personally like having only 3 assist levels (Eco, Trail, and Boost), versus four or five the other “big four” (Bosch, Brose,
I think you will find that the Shimano E8000 has plenty of power to climb... I would focus on the controls and customization features that are available on the app.Interested in it's climbing ability but also features you like and dislike.
Good article. I like the "paddle shift remote to switch between modes" set up sounds ideal to me rather than pushing buttons also the battery range being the winner.I think you will find that the Shimano E8000 has plenty of power to climb... I would focus on the controls and customization that are available.
Here is a good comparison article on the mid-drive MTB motors... the E8000 came out on top in 2019 and has now been eclipsed by the new Shimano EP8 in 2020.
e-MTB mid motor shootout: Bosch Performance Line CX vs Shimano STEPS E8000 vs Yamaha PW-X vs Brose | electric bike reviews, buying advice and news - ebiketips (road.cc)
The Shimano mode shifter design is excellent... walk mode is standard and may have to be enabled by your local dealer.Good article. I like the "paddle shift remote to switch between modes" set up sounds ideal to me rather than pushing buttons also the battery range being the winner.
I think I read somewhere it has a walk assist mode?? which if true is important to me..
That screen looks good too.. nice and protected also good if you to have to set the bike upside down on the bars too fix a flat on the trail.The Shimano mode shifter design is excellent... walk mode is standard and may have to be enabled by your local dealer.
The Shimano system is probably the most intuitive from a mountain biker’s point of view. The paddle shifter user to change modes is the same unit that their Di2 mountain bike drivetrain uses, and it’s excellent: easy to find without looking at it, and easy to use with a nice positive feedback. The LED screen is small but clear, with colour-coded modes so you can see where you are at a glance.
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My current ebike has the button type shift, have yet become used to it, should be no need to have to look at anything except the trail.I have walk mode on my E8000 bike. I have not used it yet beyond testing it.
Regarding the switch units, Shimano makes several variations. Below I show the left side—the side that controls the assist level—but there is an equivalent right side. Different bikes come with different controls, but I think they're all interchangeable.
A key thing to note is that only the SW-E6010 and SW-E6000 have a third button. This button is useful for cycling through the information display. I've read that some people whose bikes came with trigger controls swap it out for the SW-E6010, at least on the left side, so that they can get this third button. I think if you don't have this button then you need to use the small button on the bottom edge of the display in the center of the handlebars.
My bike came with SE-E6010 on the left and right sides, and I find it quite un-ergonomic for shifting the Di2 derailleur (right side). It's fine on the left because I don't shift assist levels nearly as often as I shift cogs. But on the right, no matter how I position it, I have to move my hand out of the way to shift. Also, I've noticed that when my hands get too cold I get a lot of missed shifts and double shifts. So I am going to keep the SW-E6010 on the left but swap it out for the SW-M9050 on the right. I don't need the third button on the right. Apparently the SW-M9050 build quality is worth the extra cost over the SW-M8050.
SW-M9050-L (XTR series)
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SW-M8050-L (XT series)
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SW-E6010-L
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SW-E7000-L
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SW-E6000
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I have the SW-E6000. The buttons being angled make it easy to make changes without having to look down. The 3rd button is definitely nice. I also like how narrow it is.....more bar real-estate!My current ebike has the button type shift, have yet become used to it, should be no need to have to look at anything except the trail.
I'll experiment with that on my current ebike but after thirty plus years it's second nature to blindly use a shifter.I have the SW-E6000. The buttons being angled make it easy to make changes without having to look down. The 3rd button is definitely nice. I also like how narrow it is.....more bar real-estate!
That’s how mine works. You do need to make sure you’re in a higher gear, otherwise it can be too slow.Found doing a Google search. Hopefully that's the case with the one I'm looking at.
"It’s incredibly straight forward to activate walk assist. Just press and hold the bottom button on the left switch unit until ‘walk’ appears on the display, then press the bottom button again to activate."
Interesting .. didn't think about needing different gears for walk assist but that would work well for different grades.That’s how mine works. You do need to make sure you’re in a higher gear, otherwise it can be too slow.
I’m almost positive that a dealer will not need to enable it. Bosch is another story though for some bike manufacturers. I don’t think Trek with Bosch even allows it to be enabled. At least that was the case for a while. My girlfriend’s Trek Verve + it can’t be enabled by the dealer anyway.
Yes, unless you have Di2, the motor doesn’t know what gear you’re in. I’m guessing they tune walk mode to be used in higher gears versus the lower gears to prevent someone from using walk mode as a throttle.Interesting .. didn't think about needing different gears for walk assist but that would work well for different grades.