Rize leisure battery meter doesn’t drop from 100%

[Spatzi]

3 different trips, last one 35 km. Battery on display never dropped below 100% and five bars. Used pas assist 1-5. Even the lights on the battery itself never goes below five bars. It’s a 20 ah battery, but come on, no battery is that good. It’s one problem after another with this leisure bike.

 

[hlmax]

You must be putting too much effort into peddling. Try using only the throttle, you will burn through the battery. 20ah battery is quite large.

 

[Spatzi]

You must be putting too much effort into peddling. Try using only the throttle, you will burn through the battery. 20ah battery is quite large.

Throttle only was used for at least 10 minutes. Huge hills, very rough forest trails, grassy hills, miles of sandy beach trails. There is no way this is accurate. Other bike with 19 ah battery on same trip was down to 65%. Also, when charging the bike at 100%, the charger still shows red even after 2-3 hours charging, which means it was never 100%. There is no way to reset this function in the display settings.

I met another Rize owner on the trip (city bike) and he complained how his display would show 43% battery left, then go dead. He actually had to be picked up by his wife a few times because of this inaccuracy. He says rize still gives him the run around on fixing it or getting a replacement.

 

[hlmax]

Check the bU0 setting to see if it is set to the proper battery voltage, 48V. Also try doing a few charge/discharge cycles to condition the battery.

 

[Spatzi]

Check the bU0 setting to see if it is set to the proper battery voltage, 48V. Also try doing a few charge/discharge cycles to condition the battery.

That bU0 setting (step 6) isn’t there. The manual says it should be there. It skips 6 and goes to psd.


1. Cr = Clear temporary data (trip reset)
Select “y” to clear the temporary data (average speed, max speed, current speed, single trip, time).
2. S7 = Speed KM / Miles. Switch speed mode to kilometer or mile.
3. bL1 = Backlight brightness (1 - 5)
4. OFF = Auto off LCD screen (1 - 15) minutes
The LCD screen switches OFF automatically when not in use. Select from 1 to 15 minutes.
5. Wd = Wheel diameter (20, 26, 27.5) (20F, 26F specific for 4” fat tires)
The wheel diameter must be set according to the tire size. Wrong tire size will cause inaccuracy in the speed readout.
6. bU0 = Power voltage (default 48V) (do not change)
7. PSd = Advance settings
Enter the password 1919 to access the advance settings mode.
8. SPL = Speed limit (default 32 km / 20 miles)
 Set the maximum speed limit.
9. SAs = Pedal assist sensor responsiveness (default 2) (do not change)
 Enables you to speed or delay the pedal sensor response when pedalling.
10. Sdr = Motor responsiveness (default 2)
Enables you to adjust motor responsiveness from gradual to instance. 0 - 3 (gradual to quick response).
11. PAs = Pedal assist levels (default 1-7)
Enables you to change the number of power assist levels between (1-3, 1-5, 1-7, 1-9).
12. EnP = Battery percentage indicator (0 disabled, 1 enabled)
13. Hd6 = Cruise control (0 disabled, 1 enabled)
To start the cruise control, push and hold the throttle at the desired speed for 8 seconds.
14. Sdd = Taillight flashing mode (0 disabled, 1 enabled)
15. dPd = LCD secure lock feature (0 disabled, 1 enabled) (default password 0000)
This feature will lock the LCD screen and will require a password to unlock and use the electrical system.
16. PPd = Set password for LCD secure lock

 

[hlmax]

Try running the battery down and recharge. Cycle the battery a few time. The BMS may need to learn the battery charge states.

 

[Spatzi]

After 65 km, battery Meter dropped to 95%, but then went back up again. The battery lights on the battery itself still show 4 bars. If the display was wrong or malfunctioning, the battery lights should have gone down. in comparison, my rize rx pro with 19 ah battery is down to 14% doing exactly the same ride as the leisure, but with a 50 lb heavier rider.

 

[hlmax]

After 65 km, battery Meter dropped to 95%, but then went back up again. The battery lights on the battery itself still show 4 bars. If the display was wrong or malfunctioning, the battery lights should have gone down. in comparison, my rize rx pro with 19 ah battery is down to 14% doing exactly the same ride as the leisure, but with a 50 lb heavier rider.

Recharge the battery, and try depleting it again. Do the charge/dischage cycle a few times.

 

[Spatzi]

Recharge the battery, and try depleting it again. Do the charge/dischage cycle a few times.

First, I will try to run it out. See what the actual mileage is. It has to drain eventually. Maybe it will suddenly drop to 20% or 0%.

update: after riding it another 12 km with full throttle going up hills, I managed to knock it down to 80%.

update: at least 75 km on it and battery indicator shows 80%. The battery itself shows 2 green bars out of four. This would indicate the 80% reading is an over estimate and battery is actually around 50% level.

 

[P00r]

Same issue on a Mini, I need to do a lot of throttle only to see it go bellow 100% did 20KM often with the reading still at 100%, above 30KM I usually see it go down, but the charge time does reflect the distance I make, so there's definitely an issue with the reading it's like it has only large increment

 

[byunbee]

3 different trips, last one 35 km. Battery on display never dropped below 100% and five bars. Used pas assist 1-5. Even the lights on the battery itself never goes below five bars. It’s a 20 ah battery, but come on, no battery is that good. It’s one problem after another with this leisure bike.

Maybe you got the experimental version that uses the flux capacitor!

 

[hlmax]

Same issue on a Mini, I need to do a lot of throttle only to see it go bellow 100% did 20KM often with the reading still at 100%, above 30KM I usually see it go down, but the charge time does reflect the distance I make, so there's definitely an issue with the reading it's like it has only large increment

I also have a Mini, the battery needs to go through a few charge/discharge cycles to become more accurate. You also need to realize that 17AH X 48V is 816WH, a lot of power. For example, a pro cyclist puts out 250W to 300W. You are looking at about 3 hour of moderate throttle. If you are peddling most of the time, your are not depleting the battery much.

 

[P00r]

Thanks, this is what I had noticed, on throttle only it did behave closer to expected but I do notice it tend to jump Lithium level are not easy to measure anyway and as you said the battery is still pretty new

 

[Bravesst]

I have a brand new X, which I love. I have the 19.2 AH battery, and find that on the X, I pedal almost all the time. It's more about finding a comfortable speed for current conditions (usually around 22 mph). I use the 9 PA option, and mostly ride in 6, 7, or 8 on occasion. I have actually updated my chainring to 46 teeth as well, which allows me to pedal with effect at 28 mph, and leisurely at 22 to 24.

With that said, I noticed some weird stuff. I have a Luna Advanced charger for 48 volt batteries, that is supposed to charge to 54.6. I've used it to test only, not charge. I've found that the Luna tester gives me higher readings than what would equate with display or battery itself, but the length of time it takes to charge seems to be based on what the display reads.

The way the battery runs down is also kinda weird. It will hover at 100% for a long time, maybe 5 miles, then start to drop. It floats a little up and down after it drops from 100%, but rather rapidly. In the end I usually can manage about a 15 mile ride, with the display down to about 60%, averaging about 20 mph. I have no idea if this is really only 40% of actually full battery.

My longest rides have been about 20 miles, down to 45% on display (with 2 green bars on battery and Luna charger saying over 40 volts).

The big question is, what is the actual capacity of the battery? I know for everyone it's a bit different (speed, pedal, throttle, hills, wind, road), but I do see me getting over 40 miles. How low can we safely drain the battery? If 10% is OK , we're golden. If over 20% left in the tank is necessary, I'm cutting it close. Is some reserve built into the BMS?

I've written Rize on this somewhat complicated issue, but haven't heard back. They have responded to all my other inquiries. I'll write again soon.

 

[P00r]

I do have the same type of fluctuation on my Mini 17AH, it goes lower faster if I don't pedal which is normal, as you said, it's hard to know the real range we can get, I suspect it's fairly common with 48V+ Battery

Regarding the battery drain, it's better not to discharge fully lithium battery, I expect the lower the voltage get the least fluctuation we will see. Personally I will try not to go bellow 25% but if you have no choice it's fine as long as you do recharge the battery asap

Please share if you get answer from Rize

 

[Bravesst]

Still waiting on the answer from Rize, but I agree, I bet the lower you go, the less fluctuation you'll see. My point is, I'd like to know 25% is really 25%, so as not to think I'm done, but really at a comfortable 40%.

All in all, I think I need to do a full test, and take it down to just below 25% and see what kind of mileage I'm getting. Do this several times and average it out, might be the way to go. Normally, I'm probably not getting down to 25%.

 

[Bravesst]

Marks email reply:
Also for the battery display, it is not a constant live reader, it is an estimated consumption level that is projected depending on how much throttle is applied. There might not be a difference between 85% to 100% unless you travel around 25-30km it will (not?) affect the display.

My Reply:
Not sure exactly what that means. I know it dips when you throttle or use PA and comes back when throttle is released. That's not the issue. I want to know how accurate it is, especially getting down to the low end, so I can gauge how far to go before heading home. Dips up and down are expected, I know that about Li Ion batteries, but I want to know how many miles I have left.

I'll keep you posted.

 

[hlmax]

Marks email reply:
Also for the battery display, it is not a constant live reader, it is an estimated consumption level that is projected depending on how much throttle is applied. There might not be a difference between 85% to 100% unless you travel around 25-30km it will (not?) affect the display.

My Reply:
Not sure exactly what that means. I know it dips when you throttle or use PA and comes back when throttle is released. That's not the issue. I want to know how accurate it is, especially getting down to the low end, so I can gauge how far to go before heading home. Dips up and down are expected, I know that about Li Ion batteries, but I want to know how many miles I have left.

I'll keep you posted.

You have too high of an expectation on the battery gauge to determine mileage on an ebike. There are so many variables, even Teslas have a hard time keeping accurate mileage reading. There are even more variables with ebikes, riding style, weather, road conditions, etc. Best to keep a personal log of your travels between predetermine places, and give yourself adequate buffer. You can still pedal home under your own power.

 

[P00r]

Did a 45KM ride, battery went to 49% and it was much less fluctuating once it went bellow 75% on my 17AH I trust their 50-75Km stated range is realistic 50Km full throtle with some hill and 75KM with pedaling again with some hill

 

[theemartymac]

L-ion batteries are notoriously hard to gauge. They have a strange curve where they hold near peak voltage a loong time then drop fast near the end. The display can only estimate the power level based on rate of consumption and time. Making one display that would be accurate for all the different batteries on the market is hopeless. Each battery style would need to be tested exhaustively and a unique algorithm created for that specific design.

The other option is to switch your display to read volts, not battery percentage, and reference a chart like the one found here: https://electricbike.com/forum/foru...-aa/12542-luna-hardcase-battery-documentation

But my rize X also stays steady at 80%+ right to about 50% of my actual range, then it declines rapidly. I do still get 70-100kms off a charge with medium pedal assist of 3 and some steady effort on my end. At max assist of 7 or 8 (unlocked display) and a heavy use of throttle I tend to see only 50km or so before the power falls off dramatically.

By comparison, I recently received my new RX Pro with the colour display, and it errs on the other end of the algorithm. It drops off 100% immediately and declines very quickly in percentage mode, showing only 20% or so battery left after 25-30km, but the voltage indicates plenty left. I still get similar range without a problem, but the display suggests I'm going to run out of power long before I actually do.