I bought a currie izip 3 path Plus with no battery. I have a 48 volt generic battery but there are six pins original plugged into control box and I need to know which ones are positive and negative I don't care about the stock look just don't want to pay $600 for a new battery
Replacing stock battery currie izip 3 path plus
- Thread starter indiobill
- Start date
I'll attach a picture, I can wire it up I just need to know which of the six pins are positive and negative.
Attachments
Your stock battery is 48V 8.8Ah for $600.
Would you consider buying one of these ones?
469.42US $ |Electric Bike Battery 48V Samsung LG Cell Rear Rack Layer Battery Ebike Conversion Kit Lithium Battery Bicycle Motor Kit|Electric Bicycle Battery| - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.comwww.aliexpress.com
no rack option
513.22US $ |EBike Battery 48V Samsung LG Cell Rear Rack Battery 18650 Lithium Battery Parts for Ebike Conversion Kit Electric Bicycle|Electric Bicycle Battery| - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
These are just examples... there are tons of sellers on AliExpress.
I've used this battery supplier about six times on other I've have made including my personal 1000 watt 48 volt trek and they have worked great so far, yes to BMS. I would consider the two you sent but will have same problem because it looks like you have to run through the six pins to get power to controller. I got inside and connected my battery to the red and black leads but it passes the controller board??? I'm trying to avoid changing controller and rewiring hub..I appreciate your input
The battery I got from a supplier California he sends them in about seven days. I used him about 6 times on batteries and they all work fine so far. But I'm open-minded on whatever it takes. I tried connecting my battery to the red and black, but it bypasses the circuit board and nothing works....now I actually forgot which plug was in left side or right????? I think the positive was on left side....a little knowledge is dangerous. Lol.You shouldn't have to go trough those 6 pin connector.
Some battery cradles have 4 pin, some have 5 pin.
But as you can see, it all goes to positive & negative (red & black) no matter how many pins the cradle has.
The one you showed has Dean's T Plug, but some have Andersons, some have XT60.
I don't know how those two wires are connected to controller, but unless they are soldered to you controller directly, you should be able to separate the controller and battery.
Also what did you mean by "this supplier"? Hulk? or the AliExpress link that I posted?
I have done this on other bikes but the controller was separate. I know I have to modify rack also but that is not a problem . I just need to get power to existing system????
Attachments
I wonder if I left the red nd black leads plugged into circuit board and just spliced into them with my battery wires. That might conduct power to rest of circuit board. You can see if you unplugged them it becomes divorced from circuit board...
I really appreciate your response...I've bypassed plugins before but this was different...ride safeThat was unexpected.
I was asking Eunorau (they also sell on AliExpress) and they said that the compartment will hold the controller.
499.0US $ |High Quality Electric Bike Battery 48V14Ah 1203 Rear Rack Ebike Lithium Long Life Battery for EBicycle Retrofit|Electric Bicycle Battery| - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
So when you opened the box, I was expecting to see something like this
55.0US $ |48V28A Sin wave Controller for ENA 48V1000W Electric Bike Hub Gearless Motor Kit|Electric Bicycle Accessories| - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
I guess the options would be..
1) replace controller, battery and whatever else needs to be replaced.
2) send it to battery rebuilder https://ebikemarketplace.com/products/currie-i-zip-e-bike-battery-replacement
3) buy a stock battery
sorry at this point I'm not really being much of a help
Wow...my hero....that should help.
I attach the negative and positive on the opposite side to my battery and I got display screen. I can run through the options. But no power to the motor even when I pedaled. So i spliced in and plugged 3 negative and three positive wires to my battery and just got the display screen again and no power to my motor. I'm kind of stuck right now anybody out there got some ideas I'd appreciate it thank you
I have this exact same bike without a battery, does anyone know of a company that makes an aftermarket replacement battery that works like the original rack mounted battery? I'm looking to stay with the original configuration but not spend the $600 from Currie Tech or whoever owns them now. I would even consider buying a bad battery and getting it rebuilt but they are hard to come by. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
I would do that too but I purchased the bike without any battery so I don’t have one to work with, keeping a lookout for a dead battery on Craigslist and eBay, thanks
eclipsedave
New Member
I understand you do not want to buy the Currie Izip brand $600 battery. So my comment is purely informational. I purchased my 2014 Currie Izip E3 Path+ back in early 2015 at Performance Bicycle here in Long Beach. Since it was the last, or one of the last of the 2014 models and I was buying it in 2015, I got a decent discount. (I think that store has since closed.) I made sure this model had the "V2" sticker on the motor, since the first version that was produced had issues with the adhesive for the magnets. Apparently they would come loose inside. Not much use the first 2 years due to me having spinal issues. But after my third surgery, I used it a lot in pedal assist mode for physical therapy. By late 2020 and after lots of use in throttle mode, the range after a full charge had over the years gradually gone from18 miles (throttle only range) down to around 11 miles. So I ordered a brand new $600 battery from Currie and I'm very pleased with it. The only differences that I can see is the new battery has the addition of a power button with lighted 5-bar power indicator and it's slightly longer. I had to use the throttle to walk it up a few stairs that were not steep and as the bike bounced a little bit the display turned off and I lost power. I had to slide the battery out and back in to regain power and after the bike bounced it lost power again. So I had to repeat the removal and reinstall. It took 2 power outages to get it up the steps because I'm unable to lift or push the bike. The old battery must be bounced severely for it to lose power in the same manner. The new bike battery power cutoff was significantly more easily triggered. Anyway, the range on full charge for throttle only with this new battery is 18 miles, if my memory serves me correctly. I highly recommend this particular brand new replacement battery. Once the battery pack is slid into place, the display briefly turns on and reads "C130" (if I am recalling the number portion correctly) and then the display turns off. After that, the power button on the handle bars will not function unless the power button on the battery is pushed first. I hope this info helps and I'm happy to answer any questions. P.S. I will be researching to find a reputable place to replace the cells inside the old case, as Currie does not offer such service or recycle old packs.
Attachments
Similar threads
