Replacement controller

[CORO]

I've had this bafang dual suspension dual disc brake 26" fat bike almost a year and rode it for a month before frying the controller. Of course I had the 750w 48v at full throttle everywhere and enjoy doing so..... so I need a replacement and want to upgrade it so this doesn't happen again.... how do I go about it and what is the controller I need ???

 

[CORO]

FRIED, NO GOOD NO MORE.

 

[AHicks]

2 things. First, the only thing Bafang on your bike is the motor. IMHO, that makes it a worthwhile project, but the frame, shocks brakes, shifter, etc. were all made by somebody else. Bafang doesn't make any of that stuff...

2nd. I see nothing burnt in the picture of the interior of the controller. That doesn't mean much, but wondering what steps you took to identify the controller as your issue?

FAR more likely when it comes to these things is a broken wire, or corroded/loose connection somewhere.

 

[rich c]

A 30amp controller is already an upgrade compared to most eBikes. Controllers go bad with a pretty high frequency, so buying a new one will not guarantee that it won't happen again. It's not unusual for the display and controller to have a proprietary protocol language and an upgrade usually means you buy both at the same time. If you want to go at full throttle all the time, it's also likely you may have smoked the motor. As AHicks said, what diagnostics did you do to head down this path? Did you pull the motor apart to make sure the windings aren't fried? If you do want to push more current with the repair, make sure your wiring harness will handle it.

 

[CORO]

2 things. First, the only thing Bafang on your bike is the motor. IMHO, that makes it a worthwhile project, but the frame, shocks brakes, shifter, etc. were all made by somebody else. Bafang doesn't make any of that stuff...

2nd. I see nothing burnt in the picture of the interior of the controller. That doesn't mean much, but wondering what steps you took to identify the controller as your issue?

FAR more likely when it comes to these things is a broken wire, or corroded/loose

2 things. First, the only thing Bafang on your bike is the motor. IMHO, that makes it a worthwhile project, but the frame, shocks brakes, shifter, etc. were all made by somebody else. Bafang doesn't make any of that stuff...

2nd. I see nothing burnt in the picture of the interior of the controller. That doesn't mean much, but wondering what steps you took to identify the controller as your issue?

FAR more likely when it comes to these things is a broken wire, or corroded/loose connection somewhere.

Thanks for your response, all input is appreciated.
The controller lives in a waterproof box, so there's no fresh air circulating around the heatsink and got 'can't touch this' hot.
wiggled the wires connections around a bit and got 1 last ride out of it before it cut out again. No heat fumes or smoke came from the back. The motor did want to keep going and was kinda shuddering when I tried to power up the bike.

A 30amp controller is already an upgrade compared to most eBikes. Controllers go bad with a pretty high frequency, so buying a new one will not guarantee that it won't happen again. It's not unusual for the display and controller to have a proprietary protocol language and an upgrade usually means you buy both at the same time. If you want to go at full throttle all the time, it's also likely you may have smoked the motor. As AHicks said, what diagnostics did you do to head down this path? Did you pull the motor apart to make sure the windings aren't fried? If you do want to push more current with the repair, make sure your wiring harness will handle it.

Yeah I've been reading the smaller amperage controllers. Its been so long since I've looked at it, but as diagnostics goes. Apart from my initial understandings and findings, I had a sparky mate take to it with a voltmeter and although I can't specifically remember the conversation we had, I found no reason go any further into it. ie. Take the back wheel off.
I can still pedal the bike around and the wheel has zero odour.

 

[Fatknee]

You may have cooked the hall sensors in the motor. Hall sensors control the timing of the phases, without which, the motor will judder.
Try another controller or run the current controller sensorless.