Please note my original request in the first post. I didn't sign on to satisfy your curiosity.Thanks for sharing.
TT
In the conditions you say, there is a slight measure of voltage for less than a half second and then to zero. It shows voltage for the same length of time when the on battery condition button is pressed when testing that way.Battery turned on, off the bike, no voltage at outputs. I would say the output transistors on the BMS are shut off, or there is an internal fuse on the battery that popped. Normally, the output transistors are only shut off if one or more cell groups are undervoltage. This is not likely, so the BMS could be bad.
I only have one ebike battery with a fuse in it. All my others have fuse holders that are empty and never wired up. I guess the battery makers figured their BMS was enough to detect overcurrent, or they were cheap.
You probably need a new battery. The old one can be fixed by an expert with a new BMS, a 25 dollar part,
You asked for help and several people responded. And this isn't just about you. We all want to learn from your experience so that maybe we can better help you, or the next person in similar straits. Knowing what didn't work helps avoid suggestions that have already been tried and maybe narrows down the path forward -- which could be to your benefit.Please note my original request in the first post. I didn't sign on to satisfy your curiosity.
Thanks, I will. I was told that my further email requests for some sort of answer had knocked my claim back down the priority queue. Some dandy system they have down there, eh?Stay on 'em! Don't be shy of an (another!) email indicating this is your 2nd,3rd, or 4th request for a status update on your issue.
Hahaha reading this thread I can only guess why... I'd do the same.So another Wednesday (and Thursday) gone and another promise of resolution "by the end of the day" forgotten.
I did learn that sending another email to check on the status of your claim knocks the claim back down the priority hierarchy. WTF? Seems like the system a company would use if they were less than interested in resolving issues but really wanting to prolong the frustration.
Your experience with getting the shaft from RAD is similar to mine. I finally ended up buying an after market battery from another company. Since RAD's batteries are proprietary I needed to put a different connection on the wires that plug into the battery. It's not that hard to do if you are patient and have some mechanical skills.So another Wednesday (and Thursday) gone and another promise of resolution "by the end of the day" forgotten.
I did learn that sending another email to check on the status of your claim knocks the claim back down the priority hierarchy. WTF? Seems like the system a company would use if they were less than interested in resolving issues but really wanting to prolong the frustration.
Yeah that's what it is looking like for me as well. I'm semi-convinced that the BMS failed to deal with a regenovercharge situation and I have some confirmation/corroboration of that but the official Customer Support decision flow chart doesn't appear to entertain that option so I get the telephone equivalent of a blank stare when I mention it and told it sounds like the charging fuse again. I'm not giving up on them yet but . . . . . this does get tedious.Your experience with getting the shaft from RAD is similar to mine. I finally ended up buying an after market battery from another company. Since RAD's batteries are proprietary I needed to put a different connection on the wires that plug into the battery. It's not that hard to do if you are patient and have some mechanical skills.
Wow, cleaning the connectors fixed it! Thanks!
I've cleaned the contacts but the problem is internal to the battery. There's no voltage w/ key ON at the output terminals after an initial surge of ≈ 15-16V for about .5 seconds. It appears the Battery Management System has decided to no longer manage to perform.I'm not sure how to link to another thread, but bluetick reported a battery failure after hitting a bump. His symptoms seem similar to yours. He cleaned the battery and holder contacts and is back operational. While you are waiting, it is worth a shot.
If you get a chance.. Can you take a few pics of the battery and terminals?I've cleaned the contacts but the problem is internal to the battery. There's no voltage w/ key ON at the output terminals after an initial surge of ≈ 15-16V for about .5 seconds. It appears the Battery Management System has decided to no longer manage to perform.
Rad City 4 - 2020. Bone stock except for the seat. Both RadCity models still have Regen braking. My wife has a RadCity ST and my bike works fine with her battery. There is no external damage to any of the connectors.If you get a chance.. Can you take a few pics of the battery and terminals?
With only 147km I can't Imagine a terminal failure but I guess anything is possible.
How many pins are on the connector from the battery to the bike?
I may be looking at the wrong bike... But you state it has regen braking. I don't see that on is the Rad website. Is this your own install?
I still have some hope Rad will honour the warranty so the seal will remain in place for a bit longer. I'm still more inclined to ride an old school pedal bike so I'm not suffering withdrawals yet. I bought it to keep up with the wife on hers when in the hills.Well, if/when you get to the point where you are ready to say screw the warranty, I want to ride, it may be time to open that battery up and see what's going on with it?