Red light by Bottom Bracket on a 2018 Rad Power City ST & No Power

[Seymour Sea Monster]

I am here seeking help on my bike issue. I had the bike plugged in and went to go for a cooling late night ride but it wouldn't power up with the button. I tried turning it on and off several times with the key. It has been really hot here lately and my bike cooks in the shed. There are 2 issues that I know off:

Some time ago I noticed a red light down by the BB. I don't know why it's lit up now or what its being lit up indicates. What is this light for?

It was vandalized some time ago while I was in the grocery store. The front computer screen was smashed. I've lost the ability to read the mileage ( I think I am around 2,000 miles ) but since the throttle still worked I never even contacted the company so see how much a replacement would be. Maybe now is the time.

I love the bike and since I gave up on cars this is my main source of transportation. I love to brag I haven't burned a single gallon of gasoline in over 15 years. I am not quite Elon but I am completely out of the oil industry!

 

[AHicks]

The tiny red light is the PAS sensor telling you that it has power. With a smashed display, it would be a pretty good alternative indicator the system is powered up and ready to go.

 

[legsofbeer]

I tried turning it on and off several times with the key.

Likeliest problem is that a wiring harness connector has come undone. Check all the easily accessible ones, then see if you can find a wiring harness checklist on the radpower site. I had a similar problem with a 2019 radrover, and their checklist (given me by support) let me find and fix the problem.

It has been really hot here lately and my bike cooks in the shed.

Long term you might want to remove the battery and keep it somewhere that has room temperature, much better for the battery's longevity, especially if you're charging it in a hot space. But, for the current problem, turn the battery on and press the little white button near the nose, and see if you get LEDs lighting up. Full or near full charge is one red LED and three green ones.

Some time ago I noticed a red light down by the BB. I don't know why it's lit up now or what its being lit up indicates.

It indicates the bike has power. I think it's intended to warn someone doing maintenance work that they forgot to remove the battery.

 

[Seymour Sea Monster]

Thanks for all the wonderful details, legsofbeer. Great alias, btw. So is it true that the screen is also the controller? I was under the impression that the screen was also the computer but I found a video upgrading it by Bolton that claims the real work is being done by the controller which is down lower.. maybe by the BB?

Is there a DMM test for the PAS?

I did start cleaning terminals and applying dielectric grease. No green death. Ironically I did go to college for electronics but honestly I never felt really good at being a diagnostician. I get lucky enough with doing the basics that I keep on trying, though. I will pursue more wiring harness connector issues. Those are a bear for me because I'm handicapped with only one working hand.

Since my last post I have pulled the battery, cleaned the clean connectors. I checked the 40A and 5A fuses within the battery itself. I think I can safely rule out the battery and charger for now.

I also greased the insides of the pedals and removed the sprocket, PAS, and the BB itself has a little bit of a dry feel to it. Like I can feel each bearing as it rotates. so I think I open it later to explore it more.
BB 83mm by 143mm
GINEYEA ( 6002RS written on end seal)
I got it open and the grease appears to be lightweight clear grease. I've never seen clear grease before. One can't see much of the 9 ball bearings directly because they are caged but not your typical bike bearing cage. It looks very thin. Perhaps I'll try to pump some grease in there tomorrow or maybe this is a good job for spray lithium pressurized can grease.

Well I just went off hunting for 15 minutes and could not find the part by its replacement size. You wouldn't think a square taper could be so hard to find, but aparently the 83mm is a downhill bike size.

 

[AHicks]

At one time or another, I've had to replace my display (something fell on it) and my controller (wasn't happy with it).

When I replaced the controller, I turned it on and off we went. All control settings from the original still intact, even though the controller features were slightly different . When I replaced the display, the bike couldn't find it's own butt with both hands when first powered up! I had to go through and reset everything!

So, I'm assuming the display holds all of the settings the controller uses to do it's thing (eg PAS level, on-off function, wheel size, max speed setting, etc. ). The controller holds all of the heavy circuitry used to control the motor. That's mine (KT systems). Yours maybe different.

 

[legsofbeer]

> Well I just went off hunting for 15 minutes and could not find the part by its replacement size. You wouldn't think a square taper could be so hard to find, but aparently the 83mm is a downhill bike size.

I wouldn't get too far down the road of taking apart mechanicals; from the description your problem is most likely electrical or digital (your bashed controller just gave up the ghost). Contact radpower support and see if they've got a web page set up on how to trace your electrical connections. When I did that last fall turnaround response time was about 4 hours during business days.

 

[Seymour Sea Monster]

At one time or another, I've had to replace my display (something fell on it) and my controller (wasn't happy with it).

When I replaced the controller, I turned it on and off we went. All control settings from the original still intact, even though the controller features were slightly different . When I replaced the display, the bike couldn't find it's own butt with both hands when first powered up! I had to go through and reset everything!

So, I'm assuming the display holds all of the settings the controller uses to do it's thing (eg PAS level, on-off function, wheel size, max speed setting, etc. ). The controller holds all of the heavy circuitry used to control the motor. That's mine (KT systems). Yours maybe different.

Interesting. I haven't a clue what does what & I am still awaiting a real response from radpowerbikes.com, so far only a msg with covid19 has been sent out.

 

[Seymour Sea Monster]

> Well I just went off hunting for 15 minutes and could not find the part by its replacement size. You wouldn't think a square taper could be so hard to find, but aparently the 83mm is a downhill bike size.

I wouldn't get too far down the road of taking apart mechanicals; from the description your problem is most likely electrical or digital (your bashed controller just gave up the ghost). Contact radpower support and see if they've got a web page set up on how to trace your electrical connections. When I did that last fall turnaround response time was about 4 hours during business days.

Still waiting on radpower support. I know what you mean. The problem likely is electrical and 90% of them are usually contact issues. I had to remove the BB to get at the PAS which I wanted to look closer at. Plus I have air tools from when I used to work on my own cars so BBs are not that big of a deal. Hopefully I'll find a DMM test for it or I may just google up a datasheet on the IC. Even though I don't think its the problem it is good to know how to test it.

Thing is for me every new bike I have owned I had BB issues within the first year. Systematically I have been going through all my non-Ebikes and replacing the BBs with Shimano UN-55s because they have a metal cup. Also since I don't have a garage any more it's far easier to get these things done in the summer and I'd rather do it proactively for $20 than let a bike store charge me $100 when it breaks.

Penn Cycle actually told me to throw away my Schwinn DSX-40 because they could not loosen the BB. I spent $100 on a Milwaukee Sawzall and Diablo carbide toothed blade and took it out myself. In 4 pieces. Basically the tool paid for it self in that one use and I have always wanted one.

With the Ebike down tonight I road the above mentioned DSX-40 to the lakes tonight and hand pumped some delicious well water. It's a great bike. All Aluminum frame, disc brake in front, and full suspension which I've now adapted to be an old guy's comfort bike rather than a trail-attacker. I put BMX handlebars on it so my spine sits up straight more like a cruiser. I stuck Schwinn's largest dual elastomer & steel spring comfort saddle on it. I installed a custom dual pull brake lever on the right so I can operate both brakes with one hand. Continental Road tires with some mild tread. It's like the Cadillac of bikes right now.

You can hop off a steep curb and never even need to lift your butt off the saddle because the ride is that great.

It's really the non electrical version of the Ebike I was shopping for. I almost bought the Sur Ron as it was about the closest thing I could find but they would not support rear baskets which was a make or break deal for me.

If you ask me all Ebikes should be full suspension because of the speeds they can reach. They're just crying out for that extra level of safety & control.

 

[Explorer-1]

All I can say is you should never put your bike with the battery on it in a smoking hot shed. Even if the battery survives and it probably will 99.99% of the time, you are degrading it's life unnecessarily. if you have checked all the connections between the controller and the battery, you may have cooked your display, maybe it's the type that uses a button-cell to keep setting and it has died and lost settings? Hopefully Rad will get you a new display and that will help you troubleshoot.

 

[Seymour Sea Monster]

All I can say is you should never put your bike with the battery on it in a smoking hot shed. Even if the battery survives and it probably will 99.99% of the time, you are degrading it's life unnecessarily. if you have checked all the connections between the controller and the battery, you may have cooked your display, maybe it's the type that uses a button-cell to keep setting and it has died and lost settings? Hopefully Rad will get you a new display and that will help you troubleshoot.

I totally agree with you that I am abusing the battery. Even worse I let it charge in our subzero temps during winter. But I'm handicapped and don't feel like unlocking, unplugging, and lugging in a battery every ride in addition to all the crap I already have to bring in. Also, I think I could handle the troubleshooting to a single cell if I need to as I went to college for electronics. Just think of it this way -- I am doing that extreme duty testing that we all need to know about. And if worse comes to worse I fork out the $550 for a new battery. It will still certainly be cheaper than buying gasoline.