Rear Wheel Removal Tip

Cliffy

New Member
If after removing the rear wheel locking nuts the wheel still will not drop out-- jiggle the axle with 10mm )usually) wrench to the flat surface of the axle will free the wheel. Be careful not to strip your threads focus on the flat portion of the axle.
 
The axle bites into the soft aluminum drop-outs and gets jammed,..


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,.. Be careful not to strip your threads focus on the flat portion of the axle.

You don't have to worry about your axle.

In fact it makes an excellent tap, so if you're rotating the axle the wrong way, you can cut threads into your drop-outs if you want. 😂



If you're still struggling to remove the wheel, a BFH will always gets the job done. 😂
 

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I find that my hub motor axles don't twist very much when the torque arms and nuts are doing their job, but I'm talking about dinky motors.

Would be a good tip if you can find your 10mm open end wrench. Kudos to you if you can even find your 10mm sockets,
 
I've just got crappy little torque washers that allow enough play that the axle bites into the drop-outs.

The little "torque tabs" on the washers, just don't seem adequate to me,..


I'm considering buying the fancy Grin torque arms, but it's really not necessary for me unless I had a regen motor.
My axle bites into the drop-outs and becomes lodged in there. I just have to "unhook" it to remove the wheel.

I guess my drop-outs are a wear item?
I've got a full suspension ebike though, so I'll only have to replace the swing arm instead of the entire frame.
I hope it's not a proprietary part that has been engineered to fail after the warranty has expired? 😂
 

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When it happened to me, I twisted the axle with Knipex 86 03 180 pliers. One size replaces several spanners. By clamping flats tightly, they are less damaging than spanners.

That wasn't the problem. After several incidents in which I needed a 3-pound hammer and a block of wood to get the axle out and in on the drive side, I fixed the problem with a couple of strokes of a file.
 
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