Rad City 4 - front wheel noise
- Thread starter Stefi
- Start date
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Check your spokes Stefi. Unfortunately, the people building the wheels for RAD are pretty well known for unpredictable spoke tension - which can cause some noises.
There are YouTube videos that can help you with this if you need a hand.
Mine did this after a few miles as well, and it was the spokes. I was concerned that adjusting them might cause the rim to come out of round or alignment. My solution, that's still holding many miles later, was to tighten each spoke 1/4 turn, then go around again tightening each 1/4 turn, proceeding until the noise stops.
There are YouTube videos that can help you with this if you need a hand.
Mine did this after a few miles as well, and it was the spokes. I was concerned that adjusting them might cause the rim to come out of round or alignment. My solution, that's still holding many miles later, was to tighten each spoke 1/4 turn, then go around again tightening each 1/4 turn, proceeding until the noise stops.
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Thanks a lot! Will try!
Wife purchased new Rad City Walk Thu 3 one week ago. I got it together (I have 7 month old Rad Rover 5-no problems 400 miles). I rode 8 miles fist time-(battery balancing procedure) no problems. Next morning LCD would not boot up. Error 25. I looked up trouble shooting procedure for Error 25 and hour later-LCD back to normal display. So, started 2nd ride, high pitch noise tone pulsating sound like coming from front wheel-tone sounds electronic not like a scraping brake.
It is loud and does not stop. I stopped the bike, turned off battery and cleared LCD. Human power-same noise.
So, stopped again booted up LCD-error 25. So, had the procedure memorized and got it going-20 minutes 85 degrees in Alabama. Noise still present. Next day 3nd, booted up LCD -ok, noise still present. Got 3 miles from home and Error 25 popped up and all energy to system shut down. I had to ride the damn 65 lb bike home-I am 74.
Contacted Rad and they wanted me to take a video of the sound-sent it to them today. Nothing back yet-let you know.
It sounds like a 'hoot owl' pulsates, continuous. Could be a brake but never heard a brake make an electronic tone. I thought it was my cell phone-
It is loud and does not stop. I stopped the bike, turned off battery and cleared LCD. Human power-same noise.
So, stopped again booted up LCD-error 25. So, had the procedure memorized and got it going-20 minutes 85 degrees in Alabama. Noise still present. Next day 3nd, booted up LCD -ok, noise still present. Got 3 miles from home and Error 25 popped up and all energy to system shut down. I had to ride the damn 65 lb bike home-I am 74.
Contacted Rad and they wanted me to take a video of the sound-sent it to them today. Nothing back yet-let you know.
It sounds like a 'hoot owl' pulsates, continuous. Could be a brake but never heard a brake make an electronic tone. I thought it was my cell phone-
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
You could pull that brake caliper pretty easily - just 2 bolts, then test ride. There would be no further question regarding if it's the brake or not.
My bet is the error 25 is an intirely different issue. No clue what that might be. Have you gone over all the connections on the wire harness? Is everything working with this error, or is there something that's not working?
My bet is the error 25 is an intirely different issue. No clue what that might be. Have you gone over all the connections on the wire harness? Is everything working with this error, or is there something that's not working?
rich c
Well-Known Member
On a mechanical disc brake there are two adjustments, inside pad is adjusted with an allen wrench, and the outside is with a cable adjustment. Other issues are tight or dry bearing if they use loose ball bearings, loose spoke, or tire rubbing. Did a quick Google search, error 25 can be a brake switch issue. So maybe something is sticking on the caliper or cable.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Hang in there!
legsofbeer
Active Member
There's no electronics involved in the front wheel except for the signal cable that goes from the left brake lever to the controller, and that isn't really involved with the front wheel. Spin the front wheel with the bike powered off. If you still have noise, then it's mechanical. Also, if you put your head in the right spot you can eyeball the air gap between the brake pads and brake rotor. If your brake rotor is warped or if your front wheel axle isn't seated square, you will get rubbing and noise once or more per full rotation.
I've gotten an error code when I powered on the bike while I was pulling a brake lever because I was on a slope. I don't remember if that was error 25 or error 28. Radrover, not radcity, but I'm pretty sure they use the same controller&display.
I assume you've already gone through this troubleshooting guide: https://radpowerbikes.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360010543453-Error-25-Troubleshooting-Guide
It seems possible that you have two unrelated problems: a mechanical fault with the front wheel (such as mentioned above or a bad bearing), and an electrical problem with the brake lever.
Rubbing pads can make all types of singing noises. If your spokes have been tightened and you hear tinkling noises it’s abnormal spoke deflection due to low air pressure. 58 to 65 psi is the only range acceptable on the Rad City. Your tires will need servicing every 3 to 4 weeks even if it’s not being ridden.
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Rad Electric Bike Techs got back in touch with me, several ideas but one Tech said the noise on the video I sent him was "Stuck Dust Seals on Front Tire" turn on side and add few drops of 3 in 1 oil to each soak, spin-
It worked!!!!
No Solution yet to recurring Error 25
legsofbeer
Active Member
Try jiggling the electrical wire coming out of each brake lever. After that, try disconnecting and reconnecting the big connector plug just in front of the head tube (take your battery off first, and power up the bike to discharge any remaining voltage in the system). When reconnecting, do it in good light because it's very hard to see the arrows showing how to line up the two pieces of the connector. Use a magnifying glass if you have bad eyes like me.
Finally, if the above doesn't change anything, on my bike the two brake lever electrical wires connect to the lever with a hex head machine screw (I can see the threadlocker on the screw). If you have the tools to loosen those screws without stripping the head, try it and see what you find. At the very least if you can detach the wire, you can figure out if just one brake lever is causing the problem, or if "both" are. If it is "both", then the problem likely lies elsewhere.
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thanks, I have isolated the problem in the tail light-if I keep it disconnected Error 25 has not come back, so far. I do not know why.
Or, how to fix it-You are correct it has something to do with the tail light or the electrical connections on the brake levers that activate it-I assume or the tail light itself. I have sent this info to Rad this morning-waiting for a reply. My neighbor is a electrical engineer, he does not have any expertise in E bike troubleshooting, but also stated it could be in the regenerative braking system software. I ask Rad about this also-waiting for reply. Glad I do not have that system on my Rad Rover 5 or this direct drive motor.
legsofbeer
Active Member
Most likely a short. Drawing down voltage via a short circuit causes all sorts of weird things to happen in unrelated places. It's the devil to figure out in cars.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
In this case, my guess is the power to the tail light comes from a tiny power supply in the controller that's used to power the USB ports and the headlight. That's how it's done on other rigs I'm more familiar with anyway.
If that tail light does have a short, it could be causing low voltage in that circuit, which is causing error code, maybe?
My suggestion would be to ride it for a while, and make sure the error code does disappear. If so, ask RAD to send you a new tail light - or if it's not all glued together, see if you can take the one you have apart?
If that tail light does have a short, it could be causing low voltage in that circuit, which is causing error code, maybe?
My suggestion would be to ride it for a while, and make sure the error code does disappear. If so, ask RAD to send you a new tail light - or if it's not all glued together, see if you can take the one you have apart?
