Quick-E+

alasdair said:
I swapped tyres almost immediately on buying the bike to WTB Horizons and have gone through 2-3 sets it the 12k miles. All very impressive considering a 50lb bike at 30mph on LA's crappy roads - It takes some big hits and the original wheels did tremendously well.
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Chiming in, rear factory tire blew out from a paper clip even though the original bike owner put in slime. Made a real mess, slime never again. Bought the "WTB Horizon 650 x 47c Road TCS Tire" off Amazon and had both front and back replaced. Not tubless, but I have a Mt. Tuffy tire liners for extra protection which has served me well on my road bike.

Was intending to do my usual 25 mile route but ended up doing 40 miles instead. Noticably faster than the factory tires. Especially when crusing without pedalling, did not feel the immediate loss in speed that is apparent on the knobby tires. This inaugural ride on these WBS tires, broke 2 eKOMs in Sport+ but my battery started running out so I had to go down to normal and crawled home in eco, but still made a bunch more PRs.

The WBS tires look significantly thinner than the factory tires, with much more clearance particularly noticable around the fenders.

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abercrombie said:
Chiming in, rear factory tire blew out from a paper clip even though the original bike owner put in slime. Made a real mess, slime never again. Bought the "WTB Horizon 650 x 47c Road TCS Tire" off Amazon and had both front and bake replaced. Not tubless, but I have a Mt. Tuffy tire liner for extra protection which has served me well on my road bike.

Was intending to do my usual 25 mile route but ended up doing 40 miles instead. Noticably faster than the factory tires. Especially when crusing without pedalling, did not feel the immediate loss in speed that is apparent on the knobby tires. This inaugural ride on these WBS tires, broke 2 eKOMs in Sport+ but my battery started running out so I had to go down to normal and crawled home in eco, but still made a bunch more PRs.

The WBS tires look significantly thinner than the factory tires, with much more clearance particularly noticable around the fenders.

View attachment 66407
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I had these in gumwall on my old Cannondale Slate, best tires I've had. Just yesterday I got the byway in 700c and mounted them tubeless to my steel Kona Rove. Same tire but with a little bit of tread on the sides. I wasn't sure if I should put them on my Giant as I don't think they're EBike rated and I ate through some Schwalbe G-One's in about a month. Currently have the Schwalbe Enegiser Plus tires on as they are rated to 50 for ebikes.
 
antonyw said:
Yes I've had the same issue, these bikes are definitely divas and require a lot of regular maintenance if you ride a lot. I reset mine after two months of riding and it seemed to be holding at last tire change but I'll check it again soon.
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Thanks so much for this post! I had the same issue, reseating/retightening my derailleur hanger did the trick!
 
I don't have a SpeedBox any more but a BikeSpeed-RS. I updated my bike firmware twice now. Once was pre-Covid to the version with Power Bars. I found that immediately afterwards on a little test run the bike put up a spanner symbol but once I turned it off and on, it was fine again.

I just updated it again yesterday due to the new RideControl app requiring it. The old RideControl app is no longer functional - thank Christ I was exporting my rides to Strava, otherwise I would have lost all that data.

Anyway, took it for a little test ride and the bike is fine. The Bikespeed-RS is still working OK.

Plus, one other annoyance if fixed - seems like you can now put the Display on 'Cadence' and record your ride in RideControl at the same time. The old app used to make the display switch back to Trip Distance.

However, exporting to Strava seems to be broken. I connected my Strava account but the Export option seems to be manual. And it just says 'Upload Failed'.
 
Haven't posted in a while... been riding Quick E+ trouble free for almost 12 months UNTIL.... the dreaded Giant water ingress problem occurred. I'm pretty sure it's in the controller, especially since it seems to be a VERY common issue with this bike, and probably Giant bikes in general.

Symptoms: Would randomly turn on during the day/night. Unresponsive controller. Wouldn't turn off unless battery was removed. Turns on immediately after battery put in. Bugger.

Bike went back to my LBS for repairs under warranty & was sent off to Giant. Took Giant 3 weeks of them mucking around trying to "replicate the problem"... but they said they were unsuccessful in replicating the problem despite me supplying them video footage of what the bike was doing. (apparently they hosed the bike down repeatedly etc & rode it about 50km's) ... eventually said it was repaired and ready to pick up. On the repairs ticket it said they had put a new speed censor in, and said they'd replaced the controller. On closer inspection, the controller still looked like the original since it had the same rusty screws on the underside. Uh oh, i thought.

The very next day I was happily commuting to work in the pouring Auckland rain. And guess what happened.... water ingress issue returned! After turning the bike off it turned back on and got stuck on the "Giant" boot screen loop. Kept looping on and off in infinitely. So... the next morning it went back to the LBS again. At the LBS they're all now scratching their heads about what could be causing the problem... what makes matters worse is that the LBS mechanic has quit and now they don't have one... so yea, fantastic. The last time the LBS called giving me an update they said were replacing the screen???!!!

So yea, It's pretty clear to me that the controller HASN'T been replaced. And i'm sure that it is the thing causing the problems. Should I dig my heals in and demand they actually replace the controller???? Any experiences with this issue anyone willing to share advice on? Esp from Auckland NZ ( through Evo cycles).

It's been a month without my commuter bike and i'm bloating up from the lack of exercise and too many beers. Please help :)
 
My rear light must of popped out recently, just noticed it missing. Is this a part that can easily be ordered and popped back in?

IMG_5850.jpg
 
Alan111S said:
Same thing happened to me. Everybody should check it's seated well as they have a habit of doing that..

Easy to order via local Giant dealer cost me about $20-$25 AUD and was easy to pop in
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Funnily enough, it happened again. I'm seriously considering applying a little Super Glue to stop it falling out. After all, it's not required to take it off. Luckily when I ordered a replacement last time the LBS stocked a spare, so I just went down there and bought it.

Also, has anybody managed to source replacement rims for their wheels on a 2019. I have a bit of a dent in the rear wheel rim and the rim is a little off true. My LBS said they can order a new similar rim for $40AUD and fit with labour extra of course. But that sounds too good to be true.
 
Alan111S said:
Funnily enough, it happened again. I'm seriously considering applying a little Super Glue to stop it falling out. After all, it's not required to take it off. Luckily when I ordered a replacement last time the LBS stocked a spare, so I just went down there and bought it.

Also, has anybody managed to source replacement rims for their wheels on a 2019. I have a bit of a dent in the rear wheel rim and the rim is a little off true. My LBS said they can order a new similar rim for $40AUD and fit with labour extra of course. But that sounds too good to be true.
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My rear rim cracked at the valve tube opening. I replace with a larger 25mm rim, DT Swiss E512. The rim cost $82. My bill with LBS was $222 before tax, including wheel build, new spokes, and rim tape.
 
Alan111S said:
Funnily enough, it happened again. I'm seriously considering applying a little Super Glue to stop it falling out. After all, it's not required to take it off. Luckily when I ordered a replacement last time the LBS stocked a spare, so I just went down there and bought it.

Also, has anybody managed to source replacement rims for their wheels on a 2019. I have a bit of a dent in the rear wheel rim and the rim is a little off true. My LBS said they can order a new similar rim for $40AUD and fit with labour extra of course. But that sounds too good to be true.
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My LBS quoted $120 usd for direct replacement wheel from Giant.. minus the cassette and disc of course. I decided to go with something a lot more robust from a local custom wheel builder, however, to hopefully handle my 7k miles per year commute. Cost $395 complete. After 4250 miles, the original developed cracks and the hub needed to be overhauled, but with very limited life left.
 
Hi Everyone,
I am just thinking about some off-road/double-track bike-packing and wondered whether anyone had fitted suspension forks to their Quick-E? It looks like a standard 1 1/2 to 1 1/8 steerer tube and apart from having to get a new front wheel due to the 12mm axle on the original hub, it looks quite straight forward a swap. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
 
Well after 3yrs and just under 10,000km my rack snapped an arm and it's not even at the weld. I just carry a pannier with my laptop so the weight isn't excessive.
 

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Finally got sick of having to unbolt the chainring everytime the chain comes off (I carry nitrite gloves and an allen key in my bag...), I stopped in a bike shop and bought one of those, it's minimalistic and blends in hoepfully it will stop the chain from getting wedged in.

I should have taken some pictures but I also re-packed both front and rear wheel bearings and the bike is so much smoother to ride now!
 

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BurnStar said:
Finally got sick of having to unbolt the chainring everytime the chain comes off (I carry nitrite gloves and an allen key in my bag...), I stopped in a bike shop and bought one of those, it's minimalistic and blends in hoepfully it will stop the chain from getting wedged in.

I should have taken some pictures but I also re-packed both front and rear wheel bearings and the bike is so much smoother to ride now!
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You might also check your derailleur. There's a lever to take the tension off the spring. This is to make it easier to remove the wheel. The last time I worked on my bike, I forget to re-tension the spring, and figured out the problem after I threw off my chain a couple of times.
 
myershse said:
You might also check your derailleur. There's a lever to take the tension off the spring. This is to make it easier to remove the wheel. The last time I worked on my bike, I forget to re-tension the spring, and figured out the problem after I threw off my chain a couple of times.
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I guess this means the the derailleur has a clutch. I was wondering if the clutch equipped derailleurs also drop chains like this.
 
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